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Is Your Stylist Clueless? Top 10 clues to finding a savvy stylist

A bad haircut is like a bad relationship — we’ve all experienced at least one and we know we don’t want to go there again. No doubt, you’ve learned not to jump into a relationship with someone you don’t know. So why would you hop in the chair of a stylist without a clue — and then expect a great haircut — especially if you have curls or kinks?

Finding the right stylist (just like finding that significant other!) is a slow, steady process that requires work, patience and a whole lot of communication. Here, we turn to the experts for the best clues to finding the right match for your curly mane.

Expert stylists, such as Christo, spend lots of time with each client.

Clients should never feel bullied into radical changes, says Jonathan Torch of Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute.

Curl Clue #1 Find a matchmaker

You know how it’s a safer bet to date someone when at least one friend knows him? Well, word of mouth also holds true when searching for a stylist. Go find a matchmaker!

“If you see a curly girl and you love her hair, don’t hesitate to run up to her and ask her where she gets her hair cut,” says “Curly Girl” author Lorraine Massey of New York’s Devachan Salon.

“She’ll be more than happy to tell you because she likes to spread the curl love.”

Curlies also spread the word on the CurlSalons section of NaturallyCurly.com, where you can read (and post) reviews of salons and stylists across the world.

Curl Clue #2: The phone call

Expert stylists, such as Christo, spend lots of time with each client.       Clients should never feel bullied into radical changes, says Jonathan Torch of Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute.

Once you’ve tracked down your leads, pick up the phone and crank up your curl instincts.

“If you call a salon and ask who specializes in curly hair, and their response is that everybody at the salon is a curl specialist, that is likely a red flag,” says stylist Ethan Shaw, of Anne Kelso Salon in Austin, Texas. “In reality, there may be one or two people at a salon who have really studied curly hair.”

Massey says the salon will likely always say yes because they want the business.

“What I hear is that when the client gets there, there’s a girl there that definitely says she has curly hair but prefers to blow it straight,” Massey says. “That’s a red flag. Do not let anyone into your garden unless they love it as much as you do.”

And don’t be discouraged if you don’t like what you’re hearing. You wouldn’t give up dating because of a few duds, so look for more leads and make some more calls.

Curl Clue #3: The first date

Once you’ve found what seems to be a curl-savvy salon, set an appointment — but only for a consultation. Think of it as a first date: short and sweet. You wouldn’t want to commit an entire night to someone you just met, so don’t rush in and book a cut, color and style on your first visit!

“It shouldn’t cost anything to just speak with a stylist for 10 to 15 minutes or maybe all of $10 to $20 for somebody who charges because they do a lot of consultations,” says Beth Abroms, owner of Fiddelheads Salon in Washington.

“And when you sit in that chair for a consultation, you have no obligation to get a haircut the same day,” adds Christo, curl expert and Global Artistic Director of New York’s Christo Fifth Avenue salon.

Curl Clue #4: Survey the scene

Once you’re in a salon, take a good look at the products it carries and the tools the stylists use. A lack of a diffuser in the salon is a definite red flag. And yes, surveying the stylist is a smart move, too.

“That’s a big consideration — looking at the hairdresser’s hair who’s cutting your hair,” Massey says. “It’s mandatory that every day their hair looks good. How else do you teach people to look after their hair, if you’re not going to be looking after your own hair?”

The stylist should also have the sharpest, finest tools. “You can always ask what type of scissor the hairdresser uses,” Massey says. “Is it Japanese or German? They’re always the best quality.”

And wherever you go, stay away from the razor. “A razor in naturally curly hair is the equivalent of taking a match to the ends of your hair,” Massey warns.

As for the products on a salon’s shelf, they can speak volumes.

“Ask about the curly products they have,” Shaw says. “If there’s only one or two, that’s a bad sign.”

Curl Clue #5: Never assume

At some point, we’ve all made assumptions (good or bad) on a first date, only to learn that we were off base — sometimes way off! It probably happened because we just didn’t have enough information to go by. So hold off on making snap judgments about a salon or its hairdressers. For example, don’t panic if you spot a flat iron. It’s not necessarily a red flag, unless they try to use it on you.

“You’re going to see [the flat iron] because it’s rampant in our industry,” Massey says. “They’re almost surgically attached to their hands. But what the curly girl has to understand is that the hairdresser is seeing her, not the lady next to her, not the lady in the magazine. You just tell them ‘This is what my hair does, and I don’t want to be anything other than myself.’ You can make that clear and see how the hair dresser reacts. It is your hair, after all!”

Be careful when judging a stylist based on the salon, too. “The salon can be odd, but the stylist can be amazing,” Massey explains. “Some work individually and they can just have their own little bubble.”

And although you may feel comfortable with stylists who mirror your curly locks, think twice before measuring their talent by their tresses.

“Unfortunately, a lot of stylists with curly hair don’t know curly hair,” Christo says, recalling a curly girl who had to have her ringlets rescued after ending up with a mullet cut at another salon. “I asked her what happened and she said she went to a stylist and thought he knew what he was doing because he had curly hair.”

Then, there are stylists who have naturally straight hair, but a curly heart.

“Many have been trained [in curly hair] and have a lot of curly hair clients,” Abroms adds.

Curl Clue #6: Ask the right questions

Once you’re in a salon sitting down with the stylist, curl experts say this is your cue to speak up. Like any relationship, it’s a two-way street, so make your consultation a quizzical quest.

Christo suggests these questions: “How can I manage my curls? How can I get my hair to feel or look healthier? How can I cut my hair without looking like it has too much volume? I would like to take some bulkiness from the bottom layer of my hair without thinning the hair out. How can I do that? Well, that can be done with the correct frame around the face.”

Really poke around to find out out just how much a stylist knows about the curly scene.

“You can say something like, ‘I’ve read “Curly Girl” by Lorraine Massey and I like the ideas in there.’ Then, see what they say,” Shaw says. “The book is basic essential reading for modern ideas about curly hair.”

And if the salon offers a continuing education program for its stylists, that’s a good sign.

Most important, you should never feel bullied into radical changes, says Jonathan Torch of Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute.

“No matter how great the style, if you are not ready for the change it will not be successful,” Torch says. “Our experience has shown that some clients don’t know exactly what they want, but they do know what they don’t want in a style.”

If you have pictures of a look you do want, bring them in.

“Pictures can help bridge the gap in communication during the consultation,” Torch says.

Curl Clue #7: Pay attention

You can also bridge that communication gap with stylists (or any potential significant other) by listening, really listening, to what they’re telling you.

“If you hear the word ‘layers’ in the first sentence, then I suggest you walk out of the salon politely,” Christo says, “Or if the stylist says, ‘I think we should thin your hair out because you have a lot of hair,’ those words will probably cause a terrible haircut at the end of the day.”

And beware of the stylists who sound off with sophisticated jargon that only winds up confusing you.

“If you don’t understand, ask them,” Christo explains. “They may say, ‘Let’s de-volumize’ the hair.’ Then, you say, ‘It sounds very attractive. But can you explain to me how you’re going to do that?’ It’s very important for you to know what you’re getting done.”

Curl Clue #8: One step at a time

If you’ve done your homework, and you’re still hesitant about a haircut, Massey suggests taking it one step at a time.

“You can say ‘I just want to get my hair cleansed today and I just want to show you what I do. Would you be willing to work with me?’” Massey explains.

If you find a stylist that says yes, but you think they’ll drown your hair in detergent-drenched shampoo, don’t hesitate to bring in your own product.

“Put it in a plain bottle and just say your doctor gave it to you because you have a scalp condition. This is the only way I’ve been able to get my clients to preserve their hair,” Massey explains. “Do not mention another hairdresser. Do not say another hairdresser told you to do this because then the hairdresser will say ‘Oh, really?’And if they bring the blow-fryer out, don’t be a shrinking violet.

“You can say, ‘Excuse me, I’m naturally curly and would you mind me leaving with my hair natural today? This is how I wear it,” Massey suggests.

Curl Clue #9: The haircut

The most important clue, according to Massey, is to cut your curls when they’re dry. Although stylists have been trained to cut flat surfaces on wet hair, Massey says this can spell disaster for curly girls.

“It’s really important that you look at the hair at its resting point when the hairdresser sees you,” Massey says. “When it’s wet, you would never see the different formations of each curl and they’re all completely unique — some are tiny, some are looser. If you pull them down together when they’re wet, they may look the same length. But when they dry, curls recede at different lengths.”

So how do you approach a stylist with your curl-cutting concerns?

“You can say, ‘Let me just point some things out. Please listen. I’m going to pull this curl right now, and see how much it springs? And these curls are looser on this side also,’” Massey suggests. “Show them the different personalities of your hair.”

Then, ask the hairdresser to cut at least a portion of your hair before she leads you to the sink.

“Cut the length dry. Cut the area around the face dry. Cut the top layer dry. You can see exactly where you’re pinpointing the length,” Massey says. “Then, if you must, cleanse the hair and use those points of references as your landmarks. You don’t go past those points.”

Curl Clue #10: Use your curl power!

Salons will only become more spiral-savvy if curlies show them that the need is there, and this is their ideal opportunity. Unfortunately, many salons still just don’t have a clue. Many clients who travel from all over the globe to Massey’s Devachan Salon tell her they just can’t find a curl-savvy stylist.

“It breaks my heart,” Massey says. “A lot of people are truly ignoring the needs of the curly girl. We’re a totally misunderstood, misinterpreted hair type — still! And here we are in 2006.”

Massey encourages curlies to nudge salons about educating their stylists on curly hair. The more demanding curly girls become, the more salons will be forced to act.

“Even if you just say, ‘Okay, maybe I won’t get a cut from you today. But if you ever do get someone who is educated in curly hair, please call me because I would love to come to her,’” Massey says. “Then the salon will think, ‘Oh, we better start getting savvy here with these curly girls because they’re becoming very demanding.’ We should be demanding. It’s time, and we can only do it as a curl-lective!

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