naturallychelsea

Search and destroy

The search and destroy is a great option for curlies who do not need a full trim and just want to do some general maintenance and get rid of pesky single strand knots and split ends.  The search and destroy method can be done in two ways. One of the ways to do this method is in front of a cosmetic magnification mirror. Grab small sections of your hair and hold it close to the mirror. The magnified image should make it easier to see any damaged ends. After you’ve identified a damaged section simply trim it off and move onto the next section.
Another method involves running your fingers through your hair to feel for damage like rough ends and single strand knots. Once you’ve felt some damage use your hair shears to trim it off. It is best to do this method whilst you’re doing something like watching one of your favourite shows as it can be time consuming.

Twist or braid method

Another great way to get rid of those pesky ends is to use the twist or braid method. To begin simply separate your hair into small one inch sections and braid or twist those sections. Once done take one twist at a time and trim off the ends- about 1/4 to 1/2 an inch should do. This method is great for curlies with shorter hair who find it difficult to trim the hair in the back and is also good for first time trimmers as this is a fool proof way to ensure that you do not miss any sections of your hair or overtrim it.

Also, remember that the smaller your twists or braids the more accurate your trim will be. Lastly if you’re a curly who normally wears twists or braids then rock them for a day or two before trimming the ends and if they aren’t frizzy after your trim then unravel them for a twist or braid out.

Blowdry or flat iron

This method is very popular amongst curlies with long or thick hair. By straightening the hair it makes it easier to assess the ends and trim your hair evenly as the hair is pulled taut. To do this method simply blow dry your hair using your method of choice then separate a small section of your hair to trim. Place the section of hair between the middle and index finger of your less dominant hand and run them along the length of the section until you reach approximately ½ an inch before the end. Then use your shears to trim the ½ inch of hair below your fingers. Once done separate another section of hair to trim and continue until your whole head is done.

The heat of the blow dryer can be taxing on your curls so make sure you use a good heat protectant prior to blow drying. Also a good blow drying method to use is the tension blow dry method that involves holding the hair taut whilst blow drying rather than running a comb or brush through the hair which can lead to breakage. Also this method can be done when your flat ironed hair is on its last leg right before wash day.

Wet Hair

Another popular method amongst naturals to trim our hair is to do it whilst wet. This method is very easy and all you need to do is saturate your hair with water and apply your favourite conditioner or slippery leave in conditioner. Separate a small section of your hair and thoroughly detangle it then clamp the hair between the middle and forefinger of your less dominant hand and run those fingers down that section of hair leaving ½ an inch of hair at the bottom. Ensure that the section is pulled taut then snip the ½ an inch of hair below your fingers. Continue to do this with other sections of your hair until your entire head has been completed.

Tips

• Always make sure that you use scissors meant for cutting hair called hair shears and that they are sharp.
• Never use your shears for doing anything else but cutting your hair as that could cause them to become dull and dull scissors tear the ends of the hair rather than cutting it smoothly which could lead to even more damage.
• When trimming your loose hair ensure that you twist, braid, pin etc the sections of hair that have already been trimmed to avoid over trimming your hair or missing sections.

Double Duty Products

Most of us are accustomed to a routine of layering multiple products onto our hair for different purposes like moisturizing, detangling etc. The problem with this is that it can take forever plus one day. Whilst you may think that you need a separate product for every step of your routine it is possible to find some that can perform multiple functions.

For example a good leave in can provide enough moisture to act as your moisturizer, your moisturizer could have enough hold to also be your styler and your conditioner could be left in as your leave in etc. Not only will this help to save you time but also money as you will have to purchase less products.

 MORE: 5 Double Duty Oils

Style When Damp

Whilst this may seem like an odd way to lessen styling time it really does work. Styling on soaking wet hair can be tricky. Constantly having to wipe water that’s dripping down your face and back and wringing excess water out of your hair can all take up valuable time.

Also nothing is more infuriating than watching your products foam and slide off your hair because it is too saturated with water. After washing your hair try taking a few minutes to apply your toiletries etc before starting on your hair. Just make sure it is in twists or braids to keep it stretched and prevent tangles.

Twist It

If your hair is like mine then as soon as you exit the shower it has the audacity to start drying and tangling immediatey. It may seem like if you don’t act quickly enough you have to spend additional time detangling your hair before your styling session has even begun.

To avoid this make sure that when you detangle in the shower you twist or braid each section after detangling it then rinse your hair with the twists or braids still in. This will help to keep your hair stretched and make styling easier and therefore faster.

Stretch It

For some women shrinkage and tangling is no laughing matter becasue it can make detangling and styling an all day affair. Even when it is not wash day a simple task like remoisturizing can become arduous. If this seems like your struggle then keeping your hair stretched may just be the way to go.

After cleansing your hair you could either, roller set, tension blowdry, band, or use curformers on it to stretch your hair. Then whenever you need to remoisturize and style it should be alot easier and faster because of the lack of shrinkage and tangles.

MORE: How to Stretch and Soften Coily Hair

Trim It

Those dry rough ends that you’re holding onto are adding several minutes to your styling routine. They require more product to stay moisturised, they tangle easily and those single strand knots make smoothing your hair near to impossible. This begs the question, why hold onto them?

If your ends have started to feel raggedy lately then its time for a trim so book an appointment with your hairdresser or DIY it.

MORE: 7 Worst Curly Haircut Mistakes

1. You’re bored

MORE: What Can You Fix With a Mini Chop?

2. Aging Hair

Our ends are the oldest part of our hair strand and have endured everything from our overzealous use of styling tools to chemical treatments. As a result they are more prone to breakage, tangling and just don’t look as nice as the length of our hair.

If you’ve been growing your hair out for a while and have ends that are forever frizzy, and you’re tired of babying them then it is time to book your next hair appointment. Your hair will look and feel so much better after  a good cut and you’ll probably shave a significant amount of time from your detangling and styling time.

MORE: 7 Worst Curly Haircut Mistakes 

3. Lack of volume

When we first start our natural hair journeys, most of us create a goal to grow our hair to lengths we never once dreamed possible. However, once we achieve our hair length goal we quickly discover that it comes with a big price- a reduction in volume.

Some curlies appreciate this because they longed for the days when their hair tumbled down their backs. However for the curlies longing for outrageously big hair your enemies length and gravity will both conspire against you. If you crave width instead of length, then when you book your next hair appointment ask your stylist to cut rather than trim your hair to reduce its weight and achieve more volume.

MORE: 5 DIY Treatments for Volume

4. Too much volume

There are some curlies out there blessed with beautifully thick manes that have the ability to defy gravity and grow out not down. However, if you’re that curly with a thick head of hair you might not feel so lucky.

If you’re constantly at war with your poof then a good cut might just be what you need. Layering and texturing your hair should help to reduce your bulk and volume.

5. Transitioning

Any curly who has transitioned knows just how hard it is to care for two completely different textures of hair. However, for most, the mere thought of doing the BC and rocking short hair is frightening.

If you’re a curly transitioner but you aren’t ready for a full Big Chop it might just be time for a Mini Chop. Getting rid of a few inches of chemically treated or heat damaged hair could mean less tangles and faster styling and wash sessions. Also the Mini Chop could help to mentally prepare you for the day when you finally gather the courage to do the BC.

MORE: How to Transition to Natural Hair This Year

6. Get in shape

As your hair grows you may notice one really annoying fact of life – hair doesn’t grow evenly. Due to different curl patterns and uneven shrinkage you can be left with hair that has a rather awkward shape to it. Fortunately you don’t have to live with it.

A well trained stylist who specializes in curly hair will know how to properly cut individual sections of your hair to give you the shape you desire whether it be a perfectly round fro, lift in the back or bangs.

7. Rapunzel Hair

Whilst it is satisfying to know that you can grow your hair down to your waist actually caring for hair that long is another story. If you dread detangling on wash day, resent having to use half a bottle of product in one styling session and find that doing your hair takes entirely too long then you may need to part with some of your length.

Hair care should be fun and exciting and if you have begun to hate doing your hair then you need to ask yourself if your length is worth all the trouble. If not then cut it; after all it’s just hair.

Wearing Large Earrings

Scarves

As most of us know a vibrant scarf can add much needed color and pizzazz to an otherwise dull outfit or really help to pull it together. However what you may not know is that the cotton in your scarf can be damaging to your nape hair. The cotton material can pull moisture out of your hair and the strands can catch on the rough cotton fibers and cause split ends or breakage.

The Solution:

To avoid this problem try wearing silk scarves that have a smoother texture so your hairs won’t get trapped and a tighter weave to prevent it from absorbing your moisture. Also try purchasing scarves that are not so wide that they rub against your nape.

Protein Overload

MORE: Curly Q&A: Is My Hair Protein Sensitive?

Dull Trims

MORE: Clarifying Shampoos & Co-Washing Conditioners

Less Tools

Thirsty Curls

Check Your Nails

Over styling

Pictured: NaturallyCurly Tutorial by Curls Coils and Kinks

At-Home Protection

As I Am Coconut CoWash Cleansing Conditioner, $8

MORE: CurlySuzy Q&A: Tell Me About Co-Washing 

As I Am Cleansing Pudding, $10.50

Curl Junkie Daily Fix Cleansing Conditioner, $19

MORE: Shampoo Free with Cleansing Conditioners 

Darcy’s Botanicals Daily Cleansing Conditioner Cream, $12

MORE: Clarifying Shampoos & Co-Washing Conditioners

Jessicurl Hair Cleansing Cream, $16.95

Blended Beauty Soy Cream Shampoo, $18.50

MORE: 9 Wavy Cleansing Conditioners Under $20 

Curly Q’s Curlie Cutie Cleansing Cream, $12

L’Oreal EverCreme Cleansing Conditioner, $6.99

L`Oreal Paris EverCurl Hydracharge Cleansing Conditioner, $6.99

Out With the Old

Before you even consider buying new products this spring you should clean out your stash to make room for the new. But in order to know what to toss and what to hold onto, use this helpful guide to product shelf lives:

• Natural shampoos and conditioners generally last anywhere from 6 months to a year after being opened
• Products in bottles can usually last for no longer than one year
• Oils can last for 6 months after opening
• Butters can last for up to 2 years if both are stored in cool dry places

• Products in jars should be used within 6 months after opening because constantly dipping your fingers into the product introduces bacteria into it that can cause the product to go rancid

Rule of Thumb

If you can’t remember the age of a product the best tools you can use to test whether it has spoiled are your nose and eyes. Take a whiff of the product and if it smells bad then it probably is. Also if the product has changed in color or if it has separated, these are telltale signs that it’s time to toss it.

Reuse Your Bottles

If you’re a true Product Junkie then you probably throw away quite a few empty bottles of product. Be sure to recycle your empties, or better yet, reuse them!

• Applicator bottles can be used to dilute shampoo with water and allows you to apply the shampoo directly to your scalp for those curlies who hate the stripping effects they have on their length. Also transfer oils that come in regular screw top or flip top bottles into applicator bottles to make them easier to use.
• Jars can be repurposed to store your butter mixes and the labels and the gummy residue left behind can be removed using label solution.
• Sample jars and bottles can be reused when travelling. Rather than buying travel sized products simply hold onto those tiny jars and bottles and transfer your products into them prior to flying. Also the small bottles and jars can be used to store small batches of your product mix experiments.  

Donate, Swap or Sell

After tossing out the products that are past their prime, you’ll probably be left with a cupboard filled with the products that you no longer use and love. Rather than throwing perfectly good product away, find a new home for your product by donating, swapping, or selling them.

Unused products can be donated to women’s shelters near you, which can be located by visiting www.womenshelters.org. You could also swap your old products with your girlfriends or use the swap boards on forums like Curltalk’s swap board to find curlies who are interested in what you have. Alternatively you can sell them to put a little change back into your pockets.

Organize Your Cupboards

Most of us use the age old method of simply shoving our products in the cupboard, which we all know is not very efficient. Rather than rifling through it on wash day trying to find your products this spring dedicate a day to organizing your stash.

One of the best ways to do so is to use clear storage to store your products because they enable you to separate them into categories like shampoo and conditioner, from most used to rarely used products, and seasonal products. This way finding a product will simply be a matter of pulling out the right bin.

Doing your hair when you are tired

Some days the task of washing and styling hair can feel like a mammoth undertaking. But rushing through the process can be detrimental to our hair. This is especially true for the detangling process.

It is important to always protect our hair from damage and be gentle when handling our curls. So detangling our hair when we don’t have the time or patience can often result in tugging at knots, leading to breakage.

To avoid this choose a day to detangle when you are least busy, like a Saturday or Sunday. Most importantly if you don’t feel like doing your hair don’t force yourself; throw it in a quick and easy protective style like a bun and leave it for another day when you’re not so tired.

Having too many hair idols

It’s so easy to get wrapped up in the natural hair community and become mesmerized by the natural haired veterans and their gorgeous curly manes. Hair crushes are perfectly fine but the problem arises when we hang onto the every word of other naturals and envy their hair.

Everyone’s hair is unique and copying a popular natural’s regimen is not guaranteed to give you the same results. Also by focusing too much on the beauty of other people’s hair you may lose sight of the beauty of your own and focus on trying to make your hair into something it isn’t.

To prevent yourself from becoming obsessed with another curly’s hair I would suggest taking a break from personalized blogs and YouTube channels. Focus on gaining knowledge on general haircare and avoid the trap of relying solely on a particular natural.

Using too many hair tools

Our hair can be very delicate and split and break from the rigors of day to day styling. However damage can become excessive when certain styling tools are misused. Heavy reliance on brushes to smooth the hairline can cause it to thin out and recede whilst using styling tools on the length can cause hair to break and the ends to split. Try to minimize how frequently you use styling tools by using your hands to detangle your hair and smooth your hairline.

Remember to detangle from the ends to the root gently and slowly when using tools like brushes or fine toothed combs to smooth out the hair prior to doing styles like rodsets, rollersets and twist or braid outs. It also helps if you detangle your hair with your hands prior to using any detangling tools.

Styling too often

Hand in hair syndrome is a serious disease that many naturals suffer from. The need to constantly play in your hair and try every new hairstyle that you see on a blog or YouTube can be fun but also detrimental to the health of your hair. Over-manipulation places unnecessary stress on the hair which can cause it to weaken and break. This is especially important for curlies who are trying to retain length.

Give your hair a break by creating a hair regimen that dictates how often you can wash and style your hair then stick to it. When possible, wear your hair in a protective hairstyle.

Not Giving It Time

Not giving products enough time to work can lead to frustration with our curls, coils or waves, and dissatisfaction with the products we are constantly buying.

With all of the natural hair products and information out there it can be easy to adopt a “gotta try ‘em all” attitude. Yet the search to find our Holy Grail product can result in a regimen that is constantly changing. 

Avoid the Mistake

When you’re trying out a product for the first time it is important to use it a few times and in many different ways before rendering your final verdict. Your hair can react differently to a product depending on the way in which you use it, and some products may work well initially but with continued use can lead your hair to revolt.

Also to truly be sure if a technique is working for your hair you need to try it out for a while and during that time keep a close eye on your curls.

As a Rule:

• Try a product at least three times in different ways
• Try a hair care technique five times before making your decision

And once you’ve got your verdict? Share your opinion with other curlies on our Product Review page to help them in making their product decisions too!

What are shampoo bars?

Shampoo bars are soaps made from a process called saponification where a fat is reacted with a base. What makes all natural soaps superior to your garden variety bar soap is the moisturizing qualities they have because of their ingredients.

Most natural shampoo bars are made with a lot of oil which helps to moisturize while cleansing to prevent your hair from feeling stripped after cleansing.

MORE: All About Shampoo Bars

How do you use one?

1. Wet hair completely.
2. Glide the bar over and through your hair, making sure the soap is evenly distributed.
3. Lather until your entire head is covered with suds. Remember, a little goes a long way with shampoo bars because they lather a lot. 
4. Massage your scalp with the pads of your fingers to lift away any dirt particles. Be gentle to avoid handling it roughly and prevent tangles. 
5. Rinse and condition as normal. 

Is your water hard?

Soap does not work well with hard water, so it’s important to know what kind of water you have in your area.

Hard water contains a lot of mineral salts like calcium and magnesium ions which react with the soap to form an invisible insoluble film on the hair that feels waxy to the touch. This film can cause frizz, an overproduction of oil and attract dust particles.

If you do have hard water, you can still get in on the action by using either bottled water to wash your hair, or by finishing off your cleansing routine with an apple cider vinegar rinse.

MORE: How to Prevent Hair Build Up from Hard Water

Deep Cleansing Bars

If you’re looking for a poo bar that is great for clarifying — especially if you produce a lot of oil, use a lot of product or have hair that is easily weighed down — then you should try these bars:

• Bobeam ACV and Bentonite Clay Bar — This bar not only cleanses well but it also helps to balance out the pH of your hair with apple cider vinegar
• Bobeam J’Rels Detox Clay Bar — This poo bar cleanses deeply with the help of Kaolin clay added to the bar.
• Chagrin Valley Honey Beer & Egg — Not only does this shampoo cleanse but it also helps to add strength to the hair to make it soft and bouncy.
• Chagrin Valley Lavender & Spice — This shampoo bar was specifically made for curlies with oily scalps as the lavender oil helps to balance oil production

Moisturizing Bars

For curls that dry out easily you should use cleansers that contain a lot of oils to act as emollients and prevent your curls from drying out whilst you cleanse. Some shampoo bars that fall into this category are:

• Bobeam Honey and Oats Shampoo Bar — This poo bar has received a lot of rave reviews for being extremely moisturizing.
• Cream and CocoMallow Cowash Bar — This bar has received a lot of rave reviews for its gentleness. The cocoa butter helps to moisturize as you cleanse but is washed away cleanly whilst the marshmallow root helps with detangling.
• Chagrin Valley Butter Bar — Unrefined cocoa, shea, and mango butter help to add moisture back into the hair as you cleanse, so this feels more like a cowash than a shampoo.
• Chagrin Valley Coconut Milk Shampoo Bar — If you are a curly who loves the richness and softness you get after a deep condition with coconut milk, then this poo bar is for you.

Hot tip

Just like a soap bar, shampoo bars will start to melt over time if left in the shower. Luckily, we have just the trick to keep them dry and make them last.

To extend the life of a big shampoo bar, cut it up into smaller pieces and store the pieces that you are not using. Take the dry pieces and wrap them in plastic or place them in a Ziploc and store them in a cool dry place.