Ask CurlyNikki

I recently had the pleasure of revisiting Pantene’s Relaxed and Natural Line. I tried the Intensive Moisturizing Conditioner (eh…) and fell back in love with the mask! Below, you’ll find a slightly modified review of the Deep Conditioning Mask (originally posted in 2008), and a quick review of the Intensive Moisturizing Conditioner.

Pantene Pro V Relaxed & Natural Breakage Defense Deep Conditioning Mask

(6oz for $5.99 )

I’ve avoided cones (plastics used in hair and other beauty products that can coat the hair shaft and block out moisture) like the plague since about 2006. It wasn’t until a couple of months ago that my hair fell in love with Devacare One C (which contains amodimethicone far down the list) that I decided to look into them further. So, like a true PJ and hair-a-holic, I researched that specific cone and ran across this article. Apparently, the A-cone isn’t all that bad, in fact it is one of the cones that doesn’t build up over time. It actually keeps your hair strong and protects it from breakage and splitting! I still shampoo, but I don’t use a sulfate-based one… a Cocamidopropyl Betaine-based poo will suffice!

I then ran across a thread where lots of naturals on LHCF were praising another A-cone conditioner- Pantene Relaxed and Natural Breakage Defense Deep Conditioning Mask. I picked some up and have fallen in love with it also! If in 2006, someone would have told me that I’d be using Pantene R&N, I would’ve told them they’d lost their mind. This stuff is amazing. I’m obviously on a modified CG routine now.

Product Description: Created for women of color. Unique Amino Pro-V Complex. Deep penetrating formula. This repairs and protects hair to reduce shedding. Essential oils and moisturizing condition.

Ingredients: water, stearly alchohol, amdimethicone, behentrimonium choride, cety alcohol, coconut oil, jojoba seed oil, panthenol, pathenyl ethyl ether, fragrance, lysine hcl, methyl tyrosinate hcl, histidine, benzyl alcohol, disodium edta, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, sodium hydroxide

My Experience: I use this twice a week after co-washing and detangling. On lazy days, I actually use it to detangle! I slather it on thick…I mean real thick (I go through a jar a week), don a plastic baggie, my micro heat cap, and let it sit for 30 minutes to an hour. Upon rinsing, silky, strengthened, shiny tresses are revealed. This is a sure keeper. Give it a try!!!!!!

Pros:

• Detangles like nothing I’ve ever used…ever! The slip factor is RIDIC!
• Leaves my hair ridiculously soft and shiny
• My ends break less– but this could be due to several other factors
• This drugstore deep conditioner is definitely comparable to its pricey salon counterparts.
• The price is great!

Cons:

• I wish it came in a larger size.
• It contains a cone at the top of the ingredient list- if you experience build-up easy, this may actually be detrimental to your retention.
• Sometimes it’s hard to find (that’s why I stopped using it), it must be very popular!

I can usually find it at Walmart ($5), Lowe’s Food ($6.25), or in bulk from Amazon.

**As of last week, this conditioner is going back in rotation! I don’t know how I’ve survived without it! It is truly a keeper, and worth a try.

Pantene Pro V Relaxed & Natural Intense Moisturizing Conditioner

(25 oz for $5)

Product Description: The oil-enriched formula helps seal in moisture. You cam get up to 99% stronger hair against damage.

Ingredients: water, stearyl alcohol, dimethicone, behentrimonium chloride, cetyl alcohol, coconut oil–cocos nucifera, jojoba seed oil–simmondsia chinensis, fragrance, panthenyl ethyl ether, panthenol, lysine HCl, methyl tyrosinate HCl, histidine, disodium EDTA, sodium hydroxide, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, benzyl alcohol

My Experience: Overall my experience with this conditioner was lack luster. I was hoping for a multi-purpose product- - a detangler and leave-in. Needless to say, I was a bit disappointed.

I stepped into the shower, and shampoo’ed to rid my hair of any build-up—my attempt to give this new great smelling conditioner a fair chance. After my hair was clean and soft (thanks to a Poo Bar from Mehandi), I generously applied the Intensive Conditioner from root to tip. I allowed it to marinate while I took my shower and after 15 or 20 minutes began the detangling process. As I detangled my hair with my fingers under the shower stream… I noticed something dreadful! My hair felt more tangled than before and had a rough texture. The strands felt stripped of all moisture. I was expecting an experience like the Deep Conditioning Mask, but this was totally the opposite. I had to rinse the Intensive Conditioner, and moisturize and detangle with old faithful. Obviously, I never got around to trying it as a leave-in.

I gave it one more chance a few days later…thinking it was a fluke. I didn’t shampoo this time, and instead applied it directly after water rinsing. Again, my hair became matted and felt stripped/dry. Oh well, this one’s not for me!

Bottom Line: My experience with the Intensive Moisturizing Conditioner is a shining example of how every product is not for every head! I get tons of emails from you gals asking me if I’ve tried this conditioner, and what I think. It’s very popular, and many of you are rocking great smelling, shiny, defined, moisturized curls because of it. Well not me, lol! I need to pinpoint exactly which ingredient my hair detests so much so I can avoid buying similar products in the future.

Later Gators,
Nik

Hola Chicas,

While on my way back from an 8 hour road trip (I have something random to share about that too…remind me!), an old friend from NaturallyCurly.com emailed me. You probably know her as ItsMsHeatherNicole, the curly (and hilarious) youtube star, with a southern twang. We’ve been online bffs since ‘05, and needless to say, I was delighted to see her name in my inbox…at 1am no less.

In short, she was giving me the heads up that she had tried the Twist-n-Curl, liked it, and made a vid about it. So, I thought it’d be cool to try her signature style, too—The Curly Fro!

Last night at 7pm, I made the mad PJ dash to Sally’s to pick up some gray flexi rods. I came home and for the first time since God knows when, combed through my dry hair! It felt so strange…so wrong, lol. To loosen up my dry, stiff hair, and to help the curls set properly, I used DevaCare Set it Free, a bit of Oyin Shine and Define, and a few sprays of water. I followed her directions to a T, and ended up with 7 twists, and rolled them to the roots.

This morning, after ensuring my hair was completely dry, I took them down one by one. I un-twisted, fluffed, and was pleasantly surprised! It was shiny, fluffy, moisturized, and defined. I didn’t know what to expect–I didn’t have high hopes because of my hair type. In the end, I’m happy to add this style to my arsenal. It will come in handy when I don’t have time to wet my hair. It’s also a great primer for a stretched out up-do. I probably won’t do it too often, because I don’t think my hair likes to be manipulated dry.

Here are the specifics:

• I carefully sectioned out the front and secured the rest of my hair in a scrunchy. I finger detangled a bit, and sprayed it 1-3 times with water. I then detangled with my wide tooth Jilbere comb from the ends to the roots. Finally, I sprayed SIF into my palms (about 5-7 sprays), thoroughly applied it to the section, and twisted. I added Oyin to the ends.
• Repeated the instructions above with a section at the crown, one on each side above my ears, and 3 in the back.
• Rolled the twists from tip to root and secured by folding the flexi rods (shaped like a z).
• Slept…comfortably too!
• Unrolled, separated twists, and fluffed!

The Rods

The Take Down

The Results:

Product Description: Honey-Hemp Conditioner is a light, penetrating, silky blend enriched with aloe vera gel, hemp oil, honey, and hydrolyzed silk protein. It’s got nice detangling slip and serious moisturizing power. It rinses cleanly and also makes a nice pre-shampoo deep conditioning treatment. It can even be used as a creamy, nourishing leave-in!

Ingredients: water, organic aloe vera gel, behentremonium methosulfate (emulsifier derived from colza oil) honey, coconut oil, hemp oil, vegetable glycerine, hydrolyzed silk, citrus essences, fragrance, preservative, and love!

Price: 8oz for $11 or 16oz for $18. Buy it HERE for the fastest turn around.

My Review: Heaven in a bottle. Literally. Its thin consistency can be quite deceptive—it’s very moisturizing, and a little bit goes a long, long way. Since I can’t get it on the ground I only use it as a leave-in. After detangling with Herbal Essenses’ Hello Hydration or Totally Twisted, I rinse 90% of it out, and get out of the shower. I then apply a dime size amount of Honey Hemp to each section of hair (2- left and right), and style as usual. In my experiences, too much gets to be a bit greasy.

I’ve used it alone, and with Oyin’s Shine and Define. Great results both ways! Unlike DevaCare One, the Honey Hemp has ZERO hold. It’s for those ladies that are okay with ‘fluffy’ hair…or poodle hair as my hubby likes to call it. It leaves my hair soft, fluffy and defined. I notice that my hair shrinks a bit more, but I likey. I initially bought one 16oz bottle…but after a great hair day in NC humidity, I ordered another 2 bottles! It’s considered a light conditioner, but my hair feels great and my ends look excellent. I’ll report back after 2 more weeks– it usually takes my hair 3 weeks to make its final determination.

For now, it will replace my DevaCare One. I know it’s a myth that hair can become acclimated to products, but I feel that the longer I used it, the less effective it became. Honey Hemp is twice as slippery, and the moisture is insane! It will be my staple leave-in for now.

Pros:

• Slip, slip and more slip! Did I mention slip?! The behentremonium methosulfate is working hard…
• The ingredient list is short and chock full of goodies. The best part is that it doesn’t take a chemist to read it.
• The price is right.
• The thin consistency makes it easy to apply. It soaks in really quick and un-knots the hair effortlessly.
• It smells heavenly.
• Leaves the hair soft, fluffy and residue free.
• Shiny, moisturized hair!

Cons:

• Not available in brick and mortar stores. I like for my staples to be available down the street.
• Considered a light conditioner so it may be wise to use in conjunction with another conditioner or moisturizing styler such as Shine and Define.
• If you’re protein sensitive, be mindful that it does contain a little bit…toward the end of the ingredient list. It hasn’t bothered me at all.
• No hold.

Consistency: Very light. Thinner than most conditioners, but very easy to apply. It’s not watery, but definitely not a thick cream. I liken it to the consistency of facial moisturizers.

Fragrance: Light and pleasant. Smells sweet like pineapples, or sweet-tarts.

Color: White to off-white…safe for gray haired curlies.

Hola Chicas!

Lately, I’ve been experimenting with the effects of different oils on my braid-outs. Here’s what I found:

Coconut Oil: Leaves my hair less defined, but very soft, fluffy, and LARGE. It has no hold, but I love the result! I learned a while ago that my curls hate coconut oil when applied wet…but my dry hair adores it. I usually have to re-braid every night when using coconut oil only, due to the lack of definition. Non-greasy.

Castor Oil: I’ve been using Oyin’s Burnt Sugar with great success, and the main ingredient is castor oil. It leaves me with the most defined, thick-looking braid-outs. My hair appears (totally an illusion) heavy and thick, but feels light, and non-greasy to the touch. This has become my favorite, and the set holds for two days! Castor oil really is magical.

Shea Butter: You all know that shea butter was a mainstay in my wet styling routine. Now that I do dry braid-outs, it’s a bit too heavy. I’ve been using Oyin’s Whipped Shea Butter, and it leaves my hair greasy and stringy. I hate greasy braid-outs because I can’t fluff them without causing the ugly kind of frizz. Plus, greasy hair is not a good look.

Which oils do you like on your dry hair? Which do you prefer to apply to wet hair? How do you think my dry hair would take to olive oil? Add your comments below!

Two of my favorite curly friends, HeatherNicole, and Naturally Leslie, gave Aussie Moist a rave review, and told me to check it out. So, me being the raging PJ I am, purchased a bottle yesterday…despite the fact that I already own 4 family sized bottles of Hello Hydration! The ingredients resemble my beloved Herbal Essence Hello Hydration, even down to the modified cone. In a previous article I discussed what sets amodimethicone and other similar molecules, such as bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, and trimethyl silylamodimethicone, apart from other cones. According to CurlChemist Tonya McKay:

“Amodimethicone and other similarly modified silicone polymers are considered to be among the best high-performance conditioning polymers currently available to the hair-care product formulator. They provide many unique benefits, including the following:

• Provide deep conditioning
• Provide targeted conditioning to areas of particularly damaged hair
• Protect from thermal damage
• Increase color retention
• Resist build up
• Impart gloss and shine

These modified silicones seem to be of particular benefit for those of us with damaged hair, permanently colored hair or those concerned about the buildup of conditioning agent.”

When using Aussie Moist, or Herbal Essence Hello Hydration, you will need to shampoo to completely remove the cone. Luckily, you won’t have to resort to the dreaded lauryl sulfates- shampoos with cocamidopropyl betaine will suffice. Remember, I use Giovanni 50/50 or Tea Tree shampoo from Target or Whole Foods. I shampoo bi-weekly, sometimes less if I’ve used Bentonite.

I put Aussie to the test the same way I’ve done previous ones. I loaded up one side of my head with Hello Hydration, and the other half with Aussie Moist. I let it sit while I handled my shower-time duties, then proceeded to detangle. Both sides felt identical! Aussie Moist, like Hello Hydration, made detangling a breeze. It was super slippery, creamy (a bit creamier/heavier than Hello Hydration), and smelled heavenly. I give it two thumbs up and definitely recommend it. I’ve never used Hello Hydration as a leave-in due to it’s nuclear blue color…I don’t know…its just weird to me. The clean white color of Aussie Moist may lead to some leave-in experimentation in the near future. I’ll keep you gals posted.

Bottom Line: If you’re a Hello Hydration girl, this one is worth a try. It smells great, has excellent slip, and is very moisturizing. It’s slightly thicker than Hello Hydration, so I added a bit of water post application to thin it out a bit. All in all, it’s a great, cheap conditioner. A curly can NEVER have too many detangling conditioners.

Ingredients: water, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, glutamic acid, fragrance, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, benzyl alcohol, edta, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, ecklonia radiata (australian sea kelp) extract, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, aloe barbadensis leaf juice extract.

Price: $3.69/13.5oz bottle

Trader Joe’s Tea Tree Tingle Conditioner ($4.00/16 oz)

Product Description: We’ve worked with an upscale boutique to bring you this salon-quality conditioner that will rejuvenate your hair with its refreshing tingle. A blend of certified organic botanicals including peppermint and tea tree work together to moisturize and clarify your hair while alleviating dry scalp. (This is the description for both their poo and conditioner.)

Ingredients: water, tea tree, peppermint oil, eucalyptus oil, nettle oil, thyme oil, birch leaf oil, chamomile oil, clary, coltsfoot leaf, yarrow oil, mallow, horsetail oil, soybean protein, cetyl alcohol, vitamin e, trace minerals, citric acid, sodium hydroxymethylgycinate, grape seed

My Experience: Who is responsible for this atrocity?! Seriously, one of you should have emailed me and told me that it would be in my best interest to try this conditioner IMMEDIATELY. I’ve heard good reviews, and received gentle nudges from several of you (including my friend Terron), but dang, I had no idea it was like this!!!! This ish right here…this right here….!!!!

I bought a bottle last week, and finally popped the top tonight. I was dreading my detangling session—it had been 6 days, and my hair was dry, frizzy, and incredibly tangled. I hopped in the shower and applied it generously from root to tip. I’m not a fan of minty-smelling products, but I enjoyed the tingling sensation on my scalp. As soon as I applied it, I swear, my tangles melted away. It is super, SUPER slippery!!! I’m guessing it’s the oils? Whatever it is, it’ s just as effective as Herbal Essence with fewer, and more natural, ingredients. For all of you cruelty-free, organic chicas, this conditioner is a must try! It has a bit of protein in it (toward the bottom of the list), so I won’t be leaving it in, but it’ll probably become one of my staple co-wash conditioners. Oh, and I’m not sure if it was a fluke or not, but I had much less shedding than usual…much less

Bottom Line: Excellent slip, moderate moisture, fresh tingly sensation, cruelty free, high quality ingredients…4 bucks. If you’re not on it yet, it should definitely be at the top of your PJ wish list.

My hair in the KPLR interview, as well as other recent pics have been the result of the routine below:

Current Product Rotation:

• Shampoo - Mehandi Shampoo Bar, or Giovanni Tea Tree
• Deep Conditioner - Jessicurl Weekly Deep Treatment or Aubrey Organics Honey Suckle Rose
• Conditioners - Depending on how I feel, I use one, or a combo of the following to co-wash, detangle, and leave-in: Herbal Essence’s Totally Twisted, Giovanni Direct Leave-in, Desert Essence Green Apple and Ginger, Trader Joe’s Tea Tree Tingle.
• Sealant - Afrikan Republic Unrefined Shea Butter from Butters-n-Bars, or Oyin’s Burnt Sugar Pomade.
• Henna - Bridal Art Quality Jamila from Mehndiskinart.com. I buy the Jamila in the foil pouch only, not the cellophane. I also purchase henna from Butters-n-Bars.

*I now henna once a month (if I remember), and DT twice a month.*

Hair Styles (listed in order of how often it is worn):

• Braid-n-Curl**
• Twist-n-Curl
• Chunky Twist-n-Curl (looser waves, and easier to do!)
• Messy Side Bun
• High Bun - The same basic steps as this done on dry, previously twisted hair.
• Curly Fro

I haven’t done a Bantu Knot-Out in a while due to the amount of time it takes to dry. I love the look, but hate sitting under the dryer!
To see pictures of my hair in the various styles, browse through My Hair.

Current Routine:

Every other Saturday (yes, twice a month) afternoon I do the following:

1. Thoroughly saturate hair with water in the shower, and divide into two (left and right).
   Cleanse hair with poo bar—one side at a time.
2. Apply conditioner of the day to both sides in a smooshing motion (usually Herbal Essence).
3. Pass my head back under the shower stream for a second for better distribution and added slip.
4. Clip the hair up and out of the way while I complete shower rituals.
5. Take down the right side and finger detangle a bit—detangling the rest under the water stream after the big knots are out. Follow up with the left side. If the conditioner is washed away and tangles are left, I add more conditioner, and repeat. The power of the water stream and the slip of the conditioner should make detangling a breeze!
6. Once all the tangles are melted away, and the Herbal Essence is rinsed clean, I apply a generous amount of Jessicurl Weekly Deep Treatment or Aubrey HSR. I get out of the shower, don a plastic cap and let it sit for 30 minutes with heat (the bonnet or my micro heat cap).
7. Get back in the shower and rinse thoroughly. Apply leave-in of choice—usually Desert Essence or Giovanni Direct Leave-in.
8. Make 8-10 twists- 4 or 5 on each side. **This step is to stretch the hair for the ‘real’ hairstyle**. You could also pull the hair into a bun, do cornrows, a roller-set, chunky plaits, or band.
9. Seal the ends with shea or Oyin Burnt Sugar.
10. Allow to airdry overnight, using a bonnet dryer if you’re in a rush.
11. The next morning (Sunday), take down the twists and finger detangle if necessary.
12. Divide hair into two. I now prepare to braid my dry hair for a wavy effect.
13. I do 9 plaits total, 4 on each side (one in the back, one above my ear, one framing my face, and one immediately behind that one), and one at the crown, braided toward my face.
14. Start with the back- left side. Brush the hair out (this is optional… I use a goody paddle, but a wide tooth comb or fingers should suffice), apply a teeny bit of Burnt Sugar pomade, and make a braid/plait. I braid until I reach the last 2 inches and then I twist.
15. Complete all braids/plaits in the same manner—adding Burnt Sugar Pomade along the way, and twisting the last two inches (makes for an easier take down).
    Now, gather hair rollers and find your spritz (in a 2 dollar spray bottle from Sally’s, I combine 1 part water, 1 part Desert Essence Green Apple Conditioner).
16. Spritz each braid, making it damp, not dripping wet. This step sets the hair. To make sure the braid gets thoroughly saturated I cradle the braid in one hand and spritz directly, in close range, with the other. Finally, I squish the mix through by squeezing the braid gently. Set the end on a rod roller, and move on to the next one.
17. Once all the braids are damp and the ends are rolled, I tie on a satin scarf, leaving the braids dangling, but the crown secure to control the frizzies.
18. On Monday morning, I carefully take down each braid and fluff.

Preserving the Style:

• I re-braid every other night. Since the hair is somewhat straightened and already detangled, your fingers and a wide tooth comb should get the job done.
• On nights that I don’t re-braid, I pineapple (gather the hair at the crown and secure with a loose, satin scrunchy, and tie on a scarf), and sleep on a satin pillow case.
• I’ve been experimenting with this routine for a little over a month now. I like that I don’t have to wet my hair as often, and that it yields fluffy, HUGE hair on day one. I’ve received tons of compliments and people that know me, keep asking if my hair has grown! It makes my hair look thick, healthy, and full of life.

Pros:

• Moisturize once daily or every other day
• Stretched Hair (prevents breakage, splits, tangling)
• Makes fine hair appear voluminous
• Only have to re-style (wet, detangle, etc.) once a week, or bi-weekly. yay!!!

Cons:

• Excessive manipulation (especially if you’re brushing daily). If you try this routine, only use the brush on day one.
• If you work out regularly, you’ll have to water rinse more often than twice a month.

As I stated in previous posts, I got the inspiration from Amel… plus, this was the routine my mom followed when I was a little girl (only it stayed in plaits 80% of the time). Since my hair is stretched, I’m experiencing fewer knots and tangles. I hope to see excellent length retention with this routine!

**I plan to do a Braid-n-Curl tutorial in the very near future!

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In the quest to develop the ultimate natural hair care routine (designed for growth, strength, and overall health), many of us pick up habits along the way that people outside of our group would consider weird, and even freaky!

Here’s my list of strange habits:

• I collect my shed hair in the shower as I detangle—and stick the strands to the wall no less! The conditioner makes the strands easier to plaster up there. This habit developed in order to keep my curly q’s from going down the drain and creating a massive clog. Makes total sense right? But if a friend happened upon one of my beautiful hair wads prior to clean up, they’d be utterly disgusted, lol.
• While in meetings and other boring situations, my short attention span drives me to subconsciously begin searching my curls for shed hairs. I finger through the curls and look for the odd strand out—usually it’s a shed hair turned upside down.
• I pull it out and let it fall to the floor. Gross, I know. It gets better—If I’m at the house, I’ll grab the shed hair at both ends and pull it until it pops, to assess strength (loud pop=good elasticity, weak pop= I have work to do)!
• I used to carry hair shears in my purse for the quick fairy knot or split end removal that couldn’t wait for home.
• I MUST stop in the hair department of every store I enter … no matter if it’s Walmart, Walgreens, Kroger, or even the Dollar Store. I HAVE to, even if I’m short on time, and have no extra money. Oh, and whenever I spot a new beauty supply store, I usually run in and check out their inventory as well. Funny, considering I rarely buy anything anyway, lol.

So, I’ve dished my embarrassing hair habits…don’t judge me

Tell us yours!

Later Gators,
Nik

Hola Chicas!

Yesterday evening, I was feeling like a frizz monster, and knew that I’d probably end up pulling my TnC into a pony or bun the following morning. I usually lack this foresight, as I turn into a pumpkin after 9 p.m., and my edges end up FUZZY… which is okay some days, but every now and then, I want a sleeker look!

Last night, I gathered and secured my hair on top of my head using a scrunchy. I used only my 10 digits to do the job—no brush, no comb. I then took a bit of Shea butter, melted it between my palms, and generously applied it to my edges. Finally, I put on a scarf, and went to bed.

In the morning, I removed the scarf to reveal smooth, frizz-free edges! Unlike with gel, my hair is not stiff or flaky. I have the control I need with a softer, more natural look. It’s the best of both worlds! This method is low stress on your edges—you’re not using tools, and you don’t have to pull them tight to get that sleek/smooth effect.

Of course, being the indecisive person I am, I changed my mind at the last minute, and took my hair down (not before attempting to jazz it up a bit, lol). I was surprised to find it still fluffy, and defined (albeit frizzy, lol). I liked the look and decided to rock it out again!

Moral of the story… apparently, pineappling (sleeping in a high loose pony to preserve curls) works for me! Go figure. Also, if you want a sleek pony or bun with out stressing your edges, try my Shea butter technique, and start the process the night before—or at least 30 minutes before you need to leave the house. Let the scarf and shea do the work :~)

Later Gators,
Nik

Dear Nikki: How do you sleep with all those curlers in your hair??!!! I did a Twist N Curl once, and while I favored the results, the curlers gave me a headache in the morning!! Please dish how you keep your head from hurting but your curls ever-so-tight!

A: LOL! It can definitely be uncomfortable at times, but I’m a “beauty hurts” person, so I deal with it. I usually make sure to roll the magnetic or rod rollers to my chin, or just below. That way, when I lay down on my side, I can flip the twists and rollers over the pillow so that I lay flat and comfortably. During the night, if any of the clips (at the roots) begin to hurt or dig into my scalp, I yank them out and throw them on the floor!

Dear Nikki: Whenever I do a Twist-n-Curl, the twists look great, but they look so dry. I am using the exact same products you use (Pantene R & N for the deep treatment, DevaCare One & Jessicurl WDT to set the twists.) Is there something else I am missing to make it look shiny (like yours!

A: Maybe she’s born with it…maybe it’s HENNA! My hair is naturally sheeny, and the henna has definitely enhanced this (along with rich conditioners). You’re already using moisture-rich products, so you’ve got that covered, but sometimes, less is more. Every now and then, when I’m heavy-handed with products, I get a dull cast over my hair. Maybe your hair would fare better if you use DevaCare One (quarter-size amount for each half), and simply seal the ends with Shea? See how that treats you and report back!

Also, if henna’s color scares you, check into cassia—you’ll get the shine without the red.

Dear Nikki: When I comb through my wet hair, it is shoulder length but, when it dries, it shrinks to about ear-lobe length. What can I do/use to prevent some shrinkage?

A: Shrinkage comes with the territory of natural hair. Henna can help reduce shrinkage for short periods of time, but this isn’t necessarily the case for every curly. If you’re currently wash and going, try twisting, roller-setting, TnC’ing, or braiding your wet hair. Let it air dry completely, take it down, and fluff. Wet setting greatly reduces shrinkage.

I used to stretch my roots on occasion to achieve a fuller, longer look. This hair tip definitely works, but please use it sparingly. A blow fryer should not become a staple of your arsenal!

After my wash and go was fully dry (this is very important), I’d grab chunks of hair and blast the roots (with warm air) with a diffuser or air concentrator attachment. See step 8 of this Miss Jessie’s Tutorial for a visual. I’d do this until most of the hair was stretched…taking about 5 minutes total. The end result was a bigger, fluffier curly fro that would last until humidity hit it, or it got wet.

Recently, I discovered that pulling your freshly set and dried hair up into a loose pony overnight, yields the same results as the blow dryer trick above…with much less stress and damage of course! This is my new bedtime routine…I either leave it out, or pull it into a high pony.

Dear CurlyNikki:How do you moisturize your hair without ruining your style?

A: This is a toughy, and I must admit that there are days that I choose beauty over moisture, lol. Not good. When I opt for bigger curls (magnetic rollers), it’s much easier to apply shea butter or Deva Set it Free to the ends. But, when I want a shorter, fuller curly bob (rod rollers), I never want to disturb the little curls, so I usually leave them alone The key is to start with properly moisturized hair. Deep treat/condition with a moisturizing conditioner, rinse, and apply your rich leave-in, and be sure to seal the ends. Those steps are crucial, and make moisturizing on day 2, 3, or 4 less important.

When I choose to moisturize my ends, I use a product that clumps the curls (shea or Deva), rather than one that would weigh it down or frizz it out (water based moisturizer or oil based moisturizer).

Dear CurlyNikki: Do you tell us ALL your hair secrets?

A: Of course! Y’all know about every favorite product, every failed product, every successful styling attempt, every botched styling attempt… even my sex/bedtime routine (which has changed, by the way—no more bonnet!!!). I dish all because it’s therapeutic for me, and benefits you gorgeous chicas!