Jonathan Torch

Jonathan Torch

Q: I just turned 25 and have spotted about 6 silver hairs on the right side of my head. It’s freaking me out!! Can anyone tell me if this is normal? I’m too young to get grey hairs!!

Both of my parents only started to go grey in their forties, my dad only his late forties, so I am not sure the about genetics argument. Remedies?

Jonathan: It is quite normal to spot the odd grey hair at a young age. There are many theories as to what causes hair to turn grey—stress, heredity, and simply the aging process. At times your hair will grow in grey, and other times it will just fade from roots to ends. If your natural hair colour is dark, then it will be very easy to spot any grey hairs as they are shiny and will show immediately even if there are only one or two. Some grey grows in so coarse and wiry and is very resistant even to the strongest hair colour formula. My advice is first, do not to stress about this new change. If you have fewer than five grays’ showing, it may be more convenient to just pluck them out. If not, then be prepared to embrace the world of hair colouring. There are several options available for successful hair colouring, but I would strongly recommend seeking personal, professional advice from a qualified, licensed hairstylist.

Q: Since I’m a skier and a horseback rider, I wear helmets pretty often. I’m growing out my layered hair. My shorter layer, which is about chin length, never stays in a low ponytail that I wear under my helmets, and my hair just looks plain ratty, flat, and chaotic when I take my helmet off. I try to use clips, but they don’t stay in place well. I know helmet hair is fairly unavoidable, but do you have tips that may help my situation? I hate taking my ski helmet off in the eating area because I’m so self-conscious of my helmet hair!

Jonathan: Many of the worst hair style disasters are caused by hat head or helmet head. This common problem inspired me to create one of my favorite products called Tweek. Tweek will rebuild broken hairstyles quite effectively. Tweek is a hairspray in a cream form and is ideal for curly hair, as regular hairspray does not quite work for curly hair. Tweek is not greasy, waxy, or sticky. Tweek dries clean and supports your style without the look and feel of having product in your hair. Fixing the curly hair problems that are caused by helmet head is all about rebuilding support at the root area. So simply rub Tweek between your palms or fingers, and create movement with your hands at the root area, followed by scrunches towards the ends. This movement provides volume, and Tweek will hold and support all of the volume you created. This wonderful product will easily fix flat spots, cowlicks and pony tail elastic demarcations.

Q: What is porosity and what does it have to do with anything? How do I tell what my hair’s porosity is?

Jonathan: Porosity is the ability of hair to absorb moisture, which is the most important factor in the styling and conditioning of curly hair. Moisture balance determines whether or not you are having a good hair day or a bad hair day. Preventing successful hair colouring from becoming a disaster also depends on your hair’s porosity. The same concerns affect the moisturizing and conditioning treatments for curly hair. Some curls dry in minutes and others can take hours to dry. To find out how porous your hair is, try to determine how long it takes your hair to dry—porous hair will take longer. Curly Hair Solutions products have been developed to work with all types of curly hair. Each product is carefully Ph balanced to correct and maintain the harmony of great curly hair.

Q: My hair is dark brown thick and curly. I reside in Florida so the rain and humidity never end. I received a really bad haircut, the worst I have ever had 1 yr ago and there are no knowledgeable salons in curly hair near me. I have learned the hard way! I also received a horrible dye job 6 months ago again they did not know how to handle curly hair. I would like to have burgundy highlights all over. Would that be in style considering it’s all about dark natural hair right now? Also would it look ok on a 25-year-old working in a chiropractic clinic? If so how could I do this?

Jonathan: As your previous experience has taught you, not every hairstylist knows or even likes or appreciates curly hair. You may have to undergo a series of interviews before you find a hairstylist that you believe in. Doing research is the key, and consultations should always be readily available—even free—before making a commitment. You should try to learn how to style your hair yourself by using the right products with the proper techniques and instructions so that your curls can be at their best. That is what Curly Hair Solutions’ primary goal is. When you become the master of your own curls, the haircut will become secondary. Curly Hair Solutions has proved hundreds of times that you can’t always rely on a haircut to achieve great bouncy frizz-free curls. Many people have to be convinced to let their hair grow out longer before their hairstyle can reach its ultimate potential. I can also give you the same advice about finding the correct, most qualified colorist. Every season brings with it certain colour choices. With the latest vamp trends, deeper, cooler, and darker tones are now mainstream. However, your hair colour must blend in with your skin tones to help you achieve a more glamorous look.

Q: My hair is a 3b and 2a in the front and the rest is 3b. My hair is very soft and I love my curls, but my hair doesn’t seem to shine ever. I need help with some products that will help give my hair some shine. & by the way my hair is black with brown highlights.

Jonathan: Shiny hair is caused by light reflection. The reason that straight hair has more shine than curly hair is that the hair cuticles of straight hair lie in a flat position, making it easy for the light to reflect off of. Curly hair cuticles are naturally more open, and make it more difficult to reflect light and shine. Using Curl Keeper will control all frizz by drying the hair cuticles in a closed position, which will always result in frizz-free curls with tons of shine – a simple, but very effective remedy. In addition, clean hair shines more easily than coated hair. It helps when you use artificial hair colours that reflect light. (Dark colours are shinier than light colours, and warm colours are shinier than cool colours)

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Jonathan Torch

Q: Help! The curls at my roots have disappeared! In the past few weeks, the curls close to my head have just fallen flat and frizzy. I’ve tried protein treatments, low poos, clarifying rinses, and nothing has worked. I got my hair cut about a month ago, so I don’t think it’s time for a trim. My hair feels pretty soft after I rinse out my conditioner, so I don’t think I need a deep conditioner. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Jonathan: Cutting your hair shorter will not solve your flat, frizzy hair issues. There are many factors that are causing your hair to flatten and frizz, such as the heavy oils and silicones found in many moisturizing conditioners. These conditioners, while depositing oils and silicones that coat and weigh down the hair cuticles, do not make styling hair any easier. Give your hair a fresh break from these products and over time you will notice a huge difference in the bounce of your curls. Learn how to lift your hair off your scalp with the help of a root brush. Learn to squish curl formation with the help of Curl Keeper while your hair is wet. Learn how to support the curls on the top of your head with roller clamps when your hair starts to dry to prevent the weight of wet hair from flattening down the looser curls. Hanging your head over while diffusing your hair dry will help create a bouncier curl. If all else fails, use Tweek to add lift to the root area. The magic formula goes like this: movement creates volume. Once you have created the perfect curl formation and controlled all the frizz, start creating movement by shaking your hair around. Volume automatically appears. Avoid using products that contain heavy, greasy ingredients.

Q: I seem to get pyramid head no matter what I do. I’ve tried upside-down diffusing and clipping. My hair is layered. If I manage to have some height at first, in an hour or so after drying it falls flat. Any ideas? I really need some height. Otherwise the curls look nice but don’t suit my face.

Jonathan: Hanging your head forward when drying your hair will always result in fullness and volume. However, that isn’t always desirable for curly hair. The pyramid look is a result of excess bulk, which is a common issue when you have thick curls. The term “layers” is used very loosely, as traditional layering techniques can cause unwanted “ledges”. If curly hair is cut too short it will not create the height you are trying to achieve. There are many advanced cutting techniques such as the “Tunnel Cut” that will control the excess bulk and transfer it to the top of your head where you need it the most. Supporting the hair on the top of your head when you are waiting for it to dry will definitely result in added volume and bounce. The problem is that most clips will flatten the curls during the drying process. Roller Jaw Clamps will support your curls without crushing them or leaving unwanted demarcations where the clamps were placed. Learning how to use Curl Keeper will give you the ability to manipulate your curls into a more controlled frizz-free curl formation. Diffusing your hair might be the final step to styling your hair.

Q: After six years of not living in a particularly dry, windy city, I’m not happy to be back at all. But, I don’t have a choice of where to live right now. Suddenly, all my favorite products are not working at all. Everything I do to moisturize my hair is a failure. Yesterday, after deep conditioning my hair, it felt very good at first—for about an hour or so. Then this miserable zero humidity sucked away all the moisture in my hair and left it feeling like straw. It’s horrible. It’s been this way consistently for the past month ever since I moved back here. Do you have any recommendations on how to “seal in” the products in my hair so that it won’t be so rough anymore (if it’s at all possible)?

Jonathan: Balancing the moisture that your hair needs requires continuous readjusting. Indoor heating in winter in the northern states and Canada wreak havoc on some curlies. Humidifiers help and so do moisturizing conditioners. However, to have great styling days requires the use of the proper products that will give you control 100 percent of the time. If you rely on oils to moisturize your hair, you will never solve the problem. Moisture means wetness and dampness, both requiring water, and oil and water do not mix or blend. Products containing silicone or heavy oils will dehydrate instead of hydrating. Styling your hair with Curly Hair Solutions Curl Keeper and Silk Leave-in Conditioner will dramatically solve your dryness issues. Learning how to apply the correct amount of products with the proper preparation and leaving your hair to dry on its own will result in frizz-free controlled curls. Your curls will easily be reactivated day after day by simply running wet hands over any dry or frizzy sections.

Q: need some advice on how to use Curl Keeper. How much do I apply it? I have mid-length, coarse 3b curls.

Jonathan: Curl Keeper is an extremely effective product for eliminating frizz and defining ringlets for all curl types. You should begin by shampooing and conditioning your hair, rinsing thoroughly, then applying Slip Detangler and/or Silk Leave-in Conditioner as needed and combing through your hair. Make sure that your hair is wet before applying Curl Keeper as the water in your hair is what helps Curl Keeper distribute evenly. All frizz will be controlled from roots to ends. You can use a very generous amount of Curl Keeper as all Curly Hair Solutions products are water-based and they will never build up in your hair or make it feel greasy, sticky or crunchy. Then begin “wet styling”. All you need to do is scrunch your hair thoroughly so that sections form a strong “S” shape that will dry into ringlets. If parts of your hair require extra definition, for example, the curls framing your face, you can create a tighter ringlet by grouping small sections by hand and twisting them with your fingers. While scrunching, you should hear a loud “squishing” noise that tells you there is enough water and Curl Keeper in your hair. If you don’t hear this noise, apply more Curl Keeper or re-wet your hair. Once you have completed this step, you should try to avoid touching or moving your hair for at least 10-15 minutes. This is when your hair is most susceptible to frizz, and limiting your movement will allow your hair to dry frizz-free. After about 15 minutes, feel free to start diffusing to speed up the drying time. Flipping your head forward and diffusing from underneath is a great way to create additional volume and make your curls bouncier. You can be a bit aggressive with the diffuser at this stage to create softer, fuller curls. Once you hair is completely dry, it may feel a little stiff. This can be easily fixed by continuing to play with your hair, either with your fingers or a diffuser. Simply scrunch and touch your curls until you’re satisfied with the way it looks and feels. If you overwork a section and it begins to look frizzy it is easy to correct by wetting your fingers and smoothing down the frizzy sections to reactivate the Curl Keeper already in your hair. Your hair will dry feeling clean and frizz-free for days.

Q: I’m wondering how to “revive” my curls on the day after washing. Should I conditioner wash every day? What about after exercise (when I’ve put my hair in a ponytail and the curls are messed up)?

Jonathan: The best thing about Curly Hair Solutions products is that they are all water-based. This means that you can reactivate Curl Keeper by simply wetting your hands and restyling your hair allowing your curl formation to return and controlling any frizz that may occur. Curly Hair Solutions shampoos and conditioners are perfectly pH balanced and are gentle enough for everyday use; however, you can also use these products every 2-3 days for the same great results. After exercising, I would recommend using Tweek to reshape your curls, maintain volume, bounce and shine. Tweek is the perfect fit for broken hair styles or any flat spots that may have occurred while having your hair tied up during exercise. Using Tweek will also completely eliminate flyaway hair and allow your style to last for several days.

Q: Everyone I know that has naturally curly hair has a motherlode of it. But I have my hair is soooo thin, I have to make my hair “pouf” so I don’t see my scalp, and it is also dry because of a bleach and dye. My hair is between a 3b and 3c. I am looking for products than can give life back to my hair, make it nice and soft but also make it look thick with nice ringlets. Any suggestions?

Jonathan: Coloring your hair is possible without causing damage. Hair color can help you tremendously, if it is done correctly. Healthy hair color allows light to reflect off the hair, not the scalp. Bleach and harsh chemicals cause hair to become fragile, losing the shine and spring. Treatment Shampoo will help restore some of the lost elasticity caused by bleaching, and over time, with regular Pure Silk Protein treatments, your curls will have more shine and a noticeable increase in volume. You are very lucky that your hair can curl. Women with fine, straight hair go through damaging permanent wave processing just for a little bit of precious volume. Be sure to check out several colouring options before you resort to bleaching your hair.

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Jonathan Torch

Q: For over a year, I’ve been straightening my hair every time I came out of the shower, and I think I’ve damaged my hair greatly. I never let my hair have a rest. I didn’t use any products to protect my hair, but I did use a ceramic straightener. I don’t know if that really matters or not, but it’s only been recently that I’ve been accepting my curly hair. I’ve noticed it’s not really as curly as it used to be. Any tips about how to get it back in shape, and how to get my curls back?

Jonathan: As you can imagine, if you happen to touch any flat iron with your skin for even a split second, you would receive a severe burn that would blister. So you can imagine what damage can be caused as a result of constant, unprotected flat ironing. There are two methods to treat curly hair — moisturizing and strengthening. In your case, you need to strengthen your hair to improve the elasticity, which will rejuvenate the “S” formation of your curls and return the bounce back into your hair. Our Curly Hair Solutions Treatment Shampoo has generous amounts of magnesium, which is a key ingredient responsible for rebuilding 35 percent of the hair’s external strength. Magnesium will not replenish lost moisture but will contribute to stronger, healthier hair. Some severely damaged strands may require repeated applications of Treatment Shampoo to notice change. It is very important with any shampoo to rinse your hair thoroughly. Who would have thought a shampoo could do so much for curly hair? Our Treatment Shampoo has healed so many broken curly heads over the past 10 years.

Q: My hair looks healthy and has no buildup, but it has a lot less volume than it used to. I got a trim over a week ago and it didn’t help. Also, I used to have nice spirals on the back of my head and they’re gone. What is wrong with my hair?

Jonathan: Cutting your hair to improve the curl is probably the biggest mistake made, especially during the dry winter months when there is not enough humidity to encourage bounce and form. To create curls, the hair has to at least be long enough for a curl to form. A ringlet needs to be long enough for each curl to rotate at least 2.5 times. Curly Hair Solutions Curl Keeper is the perfect product for you, as you require a product to support each curl and control all frizz and flyaway hair without ever having product in your hair. You will notice that your hair is always in control while your hair is wet and goes into chaos when dried — Curl Keeper will duplicate the same control you had while it was wet. Learning how to apply Curl Keeper and how to manipulate your curls while wet with several scrunching and clipping techniques will result in perfect, controlled curls that will look great every time. As no two curls are the same, no two techniques are the same, so it may take practice to master your bouncy, curly hair style.

Q: I have naturally curly hair — maybe 2c. I wash my hair often, and I always condition afterward. But as soon as my hair dries, it gets puffy. What can I do to prevent this?

Jonathan: There are so many people who share your problem that they completely avoid using shampoo altogether. They allow their natural oils to build up to control that puffy style. In the perfect world, this might work. However, curly hair is like a magnet for smoke, dust and almost everything else floating in the air. The truth is that not all shampoo has to be a harsh cleanser. Formulating the perfect shampoo for curls requires different ingredients and more importantly, the proper low pH balance. Curly Hair Solutions has two shampoos that both have the perfect pH balance levels of 4.5 to 5.5. This will give you the perfect strength to cleanse your curls without stripping away precious oils that protect your hair and scalp, even when used daily. Be careful of silicones because they may be the cause of your styling puff.

When you condition your hair with products that contain silicone ingredients, you have a cosmetic coating that may give you soft, shiny tangle free hair but eventually results in unmanageable styling, flyaways and flat hair. The coating on each hair makes it very difficult for hairs to group together, which is necessary to form a curl. The more hair that groups together, the looser your curls. But you can always manipulate your style the way you want. With a silicone coating, you will continue to have soft, flat, flyaway hair that makes life frustrating. To test if you have buildup in your hair, slide your fingers up and down the strands. If there is no resistance when you slide your fingers up towards the scalp, you have buildup.

Q: My hair is really growing fast for some reason, and it’s getting a bit annoying. I don’t like how it bunches up behind my back when I’m trying to bundle up in winter clothes. It gets flattened really easily and is hard to manage in the winter. I was thinking of going shorter. Note: I don’t want short hair, just shorter than it is now. When wet, it’s down toward the middle of my back. If I got several inches cut off, would it still curl like it does now? I’m scared, but I want hair that’s a bit easier to dry in this cold, cold, cold Canadian winter.

Jonathan: I empathize with you as we live in an indoor heating society. When all humidity is sucked out of the air, everyone with looser curls experience flat, flyaway lifeless curls. Over-moisturizing the hair results in even flatter, straighter days. So going shorter makes so much sense. But understanding your curls will determine how to go about this huge step. Remember that your curls will shrink, so don’t go too short. You also want to avoid cutting your hair short enough that it will disrupt the formation of your curls. You should also make sure you can still put your hair up in a ponytail, even a small one, for those “plan B” days.

To be in control, I advise you to style your hair the best you can before arriving for a consultation. This way your hair stylist will know what your curls really look like, and how you like to wear your hair. Remember, it is easier to cut off more later than it would be to grow your hair outuntil the style works. Sometimes, sleeping with a humidifier in your room will make a huge difference to your hair and skin during the cold winter season.

Q: I can’t take it anymore! Before I had chemotherapy, I had wavy hair. Now I have what looks like a sheep’s butt planted on my head. When I lost all my hair, I swore that I would never complain about a bad hair day again. My hair grew in grey, but not really grey. It wasn’t really a color. I fixed that with a bottle of hair dye. I just don’t know what to do with this hair. It is growing out, not down. It is thick and soft and super curly. Please let me know what products I should use on my hair.

Jonathan: It is quite common for hair to become totally unruly and a different texture after chemotherapy. Learning to control and style it takes patience and practice. Curl Keeper is the easiest way to control all frizz and out of control hair, as it duplicates exactly what water does to control your hair. You will notice that when your hair is wet you have all of the control you need. Your hair is never frizzy and does whatever you want it to do. With enough Curl Keeper applied to wet hair, allow your hair to dry with as little movement as possible. It may take practice to manage your curls and control the frizz. Growing your hair will help to flatten your style. If the ends feel rough or dry, try a product like our Silk Leave-In Conditioner. With Curly Hair Solutions, you will not have the look or feel of product in your hair, once it has totally dried, so have the confidence to use generous amounts to control unwanted frizz.

Q: No matter what I do, my curls don’t have any definition and they frizz up like crazy. I have short 3b/3c hair. I’m having lots of bad hair days. Help! I’m hesitating about using gel as a frizz-free haven because I don’t think it will work, and I’m afraid it will be sticky. My hair is still a bit too short to really do much. Tips and advice would be nice.

Jonathan: One sure difference between straight hair and curly hair is that with curly hair, you have to rely on a product to help you control your hair. You need to control your frizz from roots to ends. So the perfect product means that you can use as much as needed, soaking your hair if necessary, without having it look and feel of sticky or greasy. Curl Keeper was specifically developed for such control. A few tiny drops won’t do it. Lots of product for lots of frizz. Curl definition can be easily manipulated while the hair is wet. Towel drying before styling is the biggest mistake for curly hair, though it is great for straightening. Defining ringlets means learning to group your hair in curls. The more hair grouped to form each curl, the looser the curl. This may be difficult for you at this time as your hair is short and needs to grow some length. Each curl needs to rotate 2.5 times to form a defined ringlet, but keep practicing using Curl Keeper and soon every day will be a great hair day. There are no silicones in Curl Keeper, allowing the product to easily reactivate with water. This means that humidity in the air will work with the products in your hair.

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I would like to take this opportunity to introduce you to my latest product; it’s called “Tweek”. Tweek is a hairspray in a cream form that will revive and restore curly hair the next day and the day after. Tweek brings back the bounce to curly hair, so “Plan B” days turn into “Plan A” days.

Tweek is a styling cream with just the correct strength that refreshes and supports curly hair. This non-sticky, non-greasy water-soluble product causes no damage to the hair, as it does not contain drying alcohol or silicone, which can build up on hair.

Q: I have 3B hair that goes just past my shoulders. No one in my small town knows how to cut curly hair well, and I was wondering if you have any tips on how myself or an inexperienced family member can trim it better?

Jonathan: “Not too short — it shrinks” is one of the most misunderstood statements. It can cause even a qualified professional hairstylist to make mistakes when cutting curly hair. My suggestion is that you go to a stylist armed with better information. For starters, learn to style your hair into perfect, frizz-free curls so that you will become the master of your own curls. We have created step-by-step styling videos and the appropriate products, with all sorts of styling tips and tricks, to educate you on how to achieve a great hairstyle by yourself. Then you can go to a stylist with great-looking hair, participate in the consultation and only proceed when you both understand which curls need cutting. Book and pay for a consultation only. Some salons offer free consultations. If you attempt to cut your hair yourself, you could be heading for a hair disaster that might take years to repair.

Q: I had a question about my now wavy-frizzy hair. I used to have beautiful curls, but didn’t know to care for them. I spoke with a stylist who convinced me that the best thing for me would be (Japanese) straightening. This was about four years ago. Since then, my hair has grown back very frizzy and wavy. My curls have almost completely vanished. Could this chemical have permanently changed my hair? I appreciate any assistance; I really would love for my curls to be as they were, as I now know how to care for them.

Jonathan: I receive hundreds of emails regarding the problems people have experienced after they have had Japanese or Brazilian treatments done on their hair. You can count yourself lucky that your hair hasn’t been totally damaged! Your natural curl formation has been lost, and until your new hair grows back, I would like to suggest you do the best you can using the following method:

• Drench your wet hair with Curl Keeper from roots to ends so that when you squeeze your hair, your hair drips and makes a “squishy” sound.
• “Squish” vigorously all over — at least thirty squishes. The more you squish, the deeper the “S” formation will be on a curl.
• Then, to avoid frizz, allow your hair to dry as much as possible on its own. The Curl Keeper will duplicate the same frizz control you saw when your hair was wet and will allow your “new” curl formation to return.

So remember to use lots of Curl Keeper and lots of “squishing.” To speed up the drying time, learn how to use a diffuser properly.

Q: It’s so frustrating! Most of my hair curls perfectly, but I have a few curls that turn out weird. There will be a few loops, and suddenly, instead of looping over, it’s like it has grown straight for an inch, which makes a weird “U” between the curls, and then it starts curling again. I notice this happens especially with the curls around my forehead. What gives? Am I not styling my hair properly, or do the curls there just grow in an odd pattern?

Jonathan: If unmanageable curls have not been caused by the overuse of flat ironing, the problem of thin, weird, unruly curl patterns can be easily solved. When a curl forms into a ringlet, it’s called a grouping. The more hair that is grouped together, the thicker and looser the ringlet will form. So while your hair is wet, distribute Curl Keeper everywhere from roots to ends. Then you can group your unmanageable, unpredictable, weird curls together with your really normal curls and Curl Keeper will set your hair in exactly the way you would like your curls to look. You should never have this problem again.

Q: I believe my hair to be 3a. I have nice, loose-ish, soft curls pretty much everywhere EXCEPT my crown area, which I understand is typically the curliest spot. If you took your hand and placed it in the middle of the back of my head with the top of your fingers, that is the flat area. I’ve tried all different products, scrunching, etc. The only thing I haven’t tried is blow drying, which I’d really like not to get into. I used to be the cut-the-curls-out kind of guy, but the last time I had long hair, I did not have this problem. I have a great salon professional, who will brick the area a bit to try to add some texture and it definitely makes it less flat. But it’s still not curly like the rest of my head. Drives me nuts! The curly part of my hair is very responsive to any good curl product. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Q: One of the challenges of having curly hair is to learn to deal with a variety of different curl textures on one head. Many conditions can cause curls to change, including the weather, hormones or other medical reasons. Controlling the frizz is easy with the help of Curl Keeper. However, learning how to manipulate independent curls may take a lesson or two. I suggest using either a bone comb with small teeth or a root brush, as they both lift and support volume at the root area. Together with a generous amount of Curl Keeper, continuously comb through over and over again. This will soon regroup the fluffier, tighter curls where you want them. The curls will stay flatter as long as you remain quite still as your hair starts to dry on its own. I recommend that you grow some longer pieces and perhaps the extra length will weigh down the tighter curls.

As the weather is warming up, I really don’t feel like diffusing. The problem is that when I air dry, my curls are kinda limp and lack volume so they look “bleh” and I don’t like it! Got any suggestions?

The best way to control and style your hair properly is always to allow your hair to dry on its own. The less movement, the better it is for controlling frizz. Our clients who use diffusers to enhance the volume of looser curls have learned how to use our roller clamps. The roller clamps will prevent the heaviness of wet hair from weighing down and loosening the curls on top of your head. So, after you have applied the correct amount of Curl Keeper and done the best “squishing” and preparation, you can clamp the curls on top of your head and allow your hair to dry on its own. Periodically, as your hair begins to dry, rearrange the roller clamps for a more natural set. You will have bouncy, frizz-free, designer curls in all the right places.

Q: My hair is a medium brown. At the very front of my head, my roots were a little bit dirty blond. Now it looks like its spreading down a little ways and I like how it looks. So I’m thinking about getting dirty blond highlights. What do you think? Should I get permanent, demi or semipermanent?

Jonathan: Lightening your hair can be easily accomplished as long as your hairstylist understands how to control the gold color tones. When your stylist understands how to control unwanted brassiness, your color will look bright, shiny and healthy. It is up to you to maintain your colored curls with the proper pH balance of products. To achieve lighter colors, you have to use permanent color. The stronger the formula, the lighter the color will be. However, the more damaging, stronger color can affect the condition of curly hair. Some super-strong, lighter colors can actually straighten and break curly hair, which will look awful and take a long time to fix. I strongly recommend going to a qualified, licensed professional for your chemical processing.

Q : I wanted to know how you find out if your hair needs proteins or not. I have been using a conditioner without them, and then I switched to a new one with them in it. I noticed that my hair has been a bit lifeless the past few days and I’m not sure if it’s due to using the conditioner with the proteins. The temperature here has also dropped drastically in the past few days, so that could be the case. Any information on this?

Torch : Proteins are an essential ingredient in any hair treatment product. There are many kinds of protein and all are quite different. I took quite a long time researching proteins and finally, with confidence, chose silk protein as the dominant protein to use. Proteins are measured by weight and the amount of moisture they retain. For example, wheat protein has a large molecule and tends to sit on the outside of the hair shaft. This can result in a greasy feel on the hair and it may be necessary to apply heat to help the protein molecules penetrate deep into the hair shaft. Silk proteins have a tiny molecule (90-110mw), so they penetrate easily and will never feel greasy or heavy. Silk dramatically improves the moisture balance of curly hair. It never builds up, so you can never overdo it. Keratin Protein is another effective protein that I was considering, but it can build up and cause damage. So I feel silk is still by far the most effective protein for curly hair.

Q : I decided to start cutting my hair in layers to take some of the bulk off. But I have noticed that because each curl is different, sometimes you can really tell the steps of the layers. How do I go about getting a cut that doesn’t make the layers look so obvious?

Torch : What you discovered is exactly what most hairdressers are having problems with when cutting curly hair. As you have discovered, unlike straight hair, traditional layering does not work. Unwanted ledges take years to grow out. We have developed a totally unique cutting system for curly hair, based on the philosophy of cutting curly hair unevenly. We study the bounce of each curl and determine where the volume and bulk should be to best suit the shape of your face. Cutting curly hair is all about transferring the bulk from one area to another in order to show off ringlets, create movement and let the cheekbones show through dense curls.

Q : Is there any product out there that will turn my tight corkscrews into bouncy curls? Right now, in order for me to do this, I need to roll my hair in curlers and it takes forever. I just want to put something in my hair, use a diffuser (or not?) and go.

Torch : Controlling curly hair is a process that requires time, patience, and of course, the right products. The success of frizz control is completely dependent on using techniques that are meant specifically for your type of hair. Achieving loose, bouncy curls depends on a technique called “grouping”. The more hair grouped together, the looser the curl. Long hair is easier to group than short hair, and all the effort is in the preparation. The less movement that occurs during the first 15 minutes of drying, the more control you will have. Curl Keeper will allow your frizzy hair to dry in the same controlled state as when your hair was wet. Once your hair dries, you can easily soften your look by adding movement to your hair. The more you play with your hair, the more volume you will achieve. The Curl Keeper formula re-activates with water, so simply re-wetting frizzy areas with your hands could get you many fantastic frizz-free days between shampoos.

Q : I haven’t owned a curling iron since the Carter Administration, but recently I was thinking that maybe I should get one for touch ups in my ongoing attempts at second-day hair. Is there a particular kind that is better than others? do you put any protective product on your second day hair before curling?

Torch : When using high heat appliances, never be fooled by claims that they are healthy for the hair. One tiny touch, even for a split second, can cause a blister on the skin, leaving a mark. The protection against heat is provided by our Curly Hair Solutions Silk Leave-in Conditioner. All protection should be applied when the hair is wet and the irons should only be used when the hair is dry. Hair that is controlled with the use of irons is extremely vulnerable to frizz. The only way to keep the frizz under control is to keep away from dampness. To further protect your hair do not keep irons on the hair too long. Like ironing your shirts, as soon as you keep the iron still, it burns the fabric. Using Silk Leave-in Conditioner will help protect your hair from burning. You will see steam released when using your iron and it is better than seeing smoke.

Q : I highly doubt my hair could ever be over-conditioned. But just in case, what does one’s hair look/feel like if it’s over-conditioned?

Torch : Just because curly hair has a tendency to look frizzy does not mean that it is dry or damaged. Some cosmetic conditioners coat the hair by depositing a film which makes moisture absorption even more difficult. Coated hair attracts dust, which allows hair to get dirty faster. Did you ever notice water droplets appearing on the outside of the hair shaft? You almost have to drench your hair in order to wet it, and it only takes a little effort to dry. You must make sure that your conditioners actually moisturize rather than coat the hair. Some proteins build up and could cause hair to become brittle and break. Curly Hair Solutions Pure Silk Protein contains a generous amount of silk protein that will moisturize curly hair safely and never leave a coating on your hair.

Q : My hair is about shoulder length. And for the most part, I love how it looks. But in the back of my head, my curls don’t start forming until they’re about 2 to 2 1/2 inches from the crown area. This is driving me nuts! What suggestions do you have? I’ve pretty much tried everything to get my curls to form like the rest of my hair but nothing seems to work. Please help!

Torch : To encourage curl formation, try deepening the “S” formation of each curl. To solve your problem I suggest drenching your hair with Curl Keeper while your hair is soaking wet. When you bend your head over, you need to start squeezing each curl so that you hear a “squishing” sound. If you don’t hear a squish, you either don’t have enough water, Curl Keeper or both. The squishy sound is so important that the more you squish, the curlier your style will be. So remember to do extra “squishing” on the stubborn, looser, underneath curls. Allow the Curl Keeper to do its job of controlling your frizz and supporting your curls.

Q : I’m having some serious issues with my big hair. I never wear my hair completely down because I’m so self conscious about how big it is. This weekend, I worked up the courage to wear it down since I was going to be home all day. I looked like a helmet head. It’s like my hair sticks straight out of my scalp when it grows out. I have a lot of hair plus it’s got a lot of natural volume. Right now it’s at my shoulders — slightly past when dry — and I’m hoping to grow it longer in so the length will weigh it down. How can I tone it down a notch? Help! I’m tired of wearing my hair the same way all the time. I’ll take any suggestions, products, techniques, what ingredients to avoid — whatever!

Torch : To control your hair completely would require both styling techniques and having the correct curly haircut. So I suggest that you first learn to control your style. When you have just finished washing and conditioning your hair and your hair is totally detangled and sopping wet, study your hair and you will notice that you have no frizz and very little volume. If you distribute Curl Keeper from roots to ends in the same manner as when it is wet, you will have the same frizz control when your hair dries. The less movement that occurs during the first 15 minutes, the more control you will have over the frizz. Once your hair dries, you can easily soften your look by simply moving your hair around. The more you play with your hair, the more volume you will achieve. People start appreciating their volume and curls once they have total control over the frizz. The Curl Keeper formula re-activates with water, so simply re-wetting frizzy areas with wet hands could get you many fantastic frizz-free days between shampoos.

Q : I have tried cheap products, I have tried expensive products, and all I really need is something to make my limp, lifeless, boring waves into nice bouncy curls. If I found something like that, price wouldn’t matter. I am a 2c, and my hair is very dry and like straw. If I don’t put product in my hair, I poof like the Lion King. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Torch : Finding the product that’s right for you is only half the battle. Learning how to use the product is the other half. No two curly heads are the same and curly hair is always changing. From the humidity of summer to dry indoor heated winter air, the styling techniques and products need adjusting. One thing for sure is that silicones in any product, cheap or expensive, make styling difficult. The success of creating a curl depends on the amount of hair that can group together to form that curl. The more hair grouped together the looser the curl. When hair is coated with silicone ingredients, the sealed cuticles make curl grouping very difficult and flyaway hair appears, especially in humid conditions. When styling your hair with Curl Keeper it is important to rely on the Curl Keeper to take care of the frizz. Using the correct amount varies so it is an adjustment that only you will master. We also have a Silk Leave-in Conditioner that will take care of rough, dry wiry sections around hairlines or the tips of hair ends. The energy and effort is not how you dry your hair, but in taking time and effort in preparing your hair with the right products, then to allow Curl Keeper do its job as you allow hair to dry as much as possible on its own.

Q : I have an ongoing issue with the curls at the nape of my neck. I use gel when plopping out of the shower, and then let my hair dry naturally with a small clip at the bottom so my hair looks a little bit longer after drying. I do not comb or pick through my curls so that they’ll find their mates, and I don’t want to generate volume. The problem is that the curls underneath get so tangled and matted and squished together. I’ve done braids, leave-in conditioner (makes the problem much worse), the pineapple or braids when I sleep, different conditioners in the shower — almost anything I can think of to avoid this. I’m so frustrated that I’ve taken to tightly braiding just that section of hair underneath so I don’t have to deal with it. This is causing breakage and flatness in the back of my hair. Help!

Torch : To control your frizz and manage your hair style, it is very important that all knots are untangled and all loose hair is removed. Otherwise, matting occurs, which leads to dreads. To ensure that you get this under control, it is important to change your styling regimen. I recommend trying Curly Hair Solutions Treatment Shampoo to strengthen your hair and Pure Silk Protein Conditioner to moisturize your hair. The next challenge is to spray generous amounts of Slip Leave-in Detangler. After letting it sit for five minutes, removing all the loose hair will be easy. Use a large-tooth comb and distribute Curl Keeper evenly over your clean, wet, detangled hair for total frizz control. Allow your hair to settle and dry on its own before you begin your styling.

Q : I’m a 3b, but the hair at my neck is nearly straight (2a/2b). It’s just a small section of my hair – the lowest part on my neck – but it is so darn frustrating. I don’t know what to do about it. Any suggestions on how to get it as curly as the rest of my hair?

Torch : I recommend the following two alternatives: You could perm the looser curl to have a tighter “S” formation shape that is closer to your natural curl tightness. Keep in mind that the successful outcome of any chemical service depends on the time and care taken to perform the service. I strongly suggest a fully experienced hairstylist using the highest quality perms. Keeping your hair in its healthiest condition will certainly guarantee success. Depending on how the few stray pieces influence length or thickness, I recommend letting your hair dry as curly as you can. After you have achieved great bouncy curls, the few straight hairs will be more obvious as the curlier sections shrink. At this point, I would suggest cutting the straight hairs very unevenly to blend it with the rest. Be careful, because some people rely on those longer pieces to help pull their hair back for those plan “B” bad hair days.

Q : I am a red-headed 3a who is growing my hair out. It’s currently about 2 inches below my collarbone, and I want to go several more inches. But my hair is starting to get this puffy at the bottom — a total triangle look — and it’s not good! It’s almost all one length, but has just a couple of very long layers in it (not much shorter than the rest of my hair). Will more layers break up that look? I am so scared of layers because in the past they made my hair bigger, and I do not want “big hair.” I want ringlets that lay flat and long. My hair is extremely thick and coarse. I think the thickness/heaviness is the problem. Any stylist that has cut my hair says it’s the thickest hair they’ve dealt with.

Torch : Thick hair is certainly a challenge because there are thousands more hairs per square inch. Even cleansing techniques are difficult because it takes much more effort to wet the hair enough, making it difficult to get down to the roots. That is why some thick-haired kids have oily roots and dry ends. Controlling the curls will depend on generous amounts of Curl Keeper distributed everywhere while your hair is soaking wet. Allow your hair to dry as much as possible on its own without creating movement — at least for the first 15 minutes. Once your hair starts to air dry and the Curl Keeper has taken control of your frizz, you can be more aggressive with drying. Using a blowdryer with a diffuser will help speed up the drying process. As for layers, that is the most over-used term when talking about cutting curly hair. I suggest finding a hairstylist that understands that traditional layering techniques do not work on curly hair. Ledges form in the worst places, and can take years to grow out. There are specific hair-cutting techniques that carefully redistribute the bulk, creating curly hairstyles with bounce and movement.

Q : I just found the website and am curious about growing my hair out a bit. I have been wearing my naturally curly, dark blonde (with well-maintained highlights) hair pretty short for about 11 years. I can style it as I please at this length (it’s no more than 3-4 inches long anywhere), but I’m quite bored and am thinking of growing it out — not long, but maybe just above my shoulders. I have a Scottish background, and my hair looks much like traditional British Isles curlies, loosening somewhat as I approach 40 years old. My concern is frizz and control. Once I style my hair in the morning, I don’t like to think about it any more until the next day. How can I style it as it grows and gets “big” and what kind of style might I have in the future that keeps its shape without being sprayed to hardness? I am tired of having bangs as well. It’s windy and/or humid a lot here!

Torch : As you have found, it is quite challenging to grow out curly hair. The process goes through several phases, and the styling ease and finished look vary from phase to phase. You will have to be flexible with the styling techniques and have a lot of patience. The benefits of growing out your curls are fantastic. You will feel younger and discover a curl freedom that you will love and appreciate. However, you should realize that curly hair tends to be messier than straight hair. That doesn’t mean that you will have frizz. I promise that the Curl Keeper will take care of that. The frizz will not be the problem. Having the persistence to allow your curls to dry on their own, with as little touching as possible, will be the greatest challenge. Creating the finished look needs patience to allow the products to do their job. When wearing your hair curly, you should first create the curls with Curl Keeper on wet hair and allow the hair to dry on its own until the entire frizz is controlled. Then, slowly and gently begin to soften and separate the firm curls to bring out the style that suits you. You will need the help of a qualified stylist to control where you want and need volume. Because you will need the hair to grow, I suggest working with a stylist to perfect your styling techniques. You can then show your hairstylist your curls when they look great so there is no guesswork involved. I have helped many people grow their hair long, and you will find that it is possible to make the journey a success. If you get discouraged, play with hair color. And, always use the best products.

Q : I have naturally curly red hair. I hate it because I am going on 17 years old and I still can’t figure out how to style it right. I get up in the morning and wash it. Then I put Paul Mitchell gel in it, let it air dry while doing my makeup, fling it back and forth and hairspray it with Aussie hairspray. It keeps the frizz down pretty good, but my hair looks like its wet all day. I want it to look nice and soft and dry without frizz. Can you help me, please?

Torch : You certainly take the time to style your hair! And, taking the time and effort in the preparation will result in more success in achieving perfect long-lasting, frizz-free curls. You should be able to rely on the correct products to perform properly. A good haircut can only go so far. That only applies to straight hair. The first step is to clean, condition and completely detangle your hair. Then, apply Curl Keeper generously throughout your wet hair. There are no silicones or oils in Curl Keeper so you can never overdo it. You want to achieve the same frizz control you have while your hair is wet without the look and feel of product in your hair. Allow your hair to dry on its own for as long as you can. If you are in a rush you can begin to diffuse your curls but only when they reach the point that the surface feels dry. That is when you will need patience. Slowly create some movement, but try not to disturb the curls you had while it was wet. If you overdo it, you can reactivate the Curl Keeper by wetting your hands with water and touching the flyaway curls. Because the Curl Keeper softens to the touch, you can create the fullness you are looking for when your curls are completely dry. The more movement you create, the softer and fuller your style will become. If you follow these steps, your frizz will be controlled for several days. Curl Keeper reactivates itself with water as long as you use a sufficient amount.

Q : I have naturally curly hair. My hair used to be very thick, and when cut short went right into an afro. The last 10 years, I have been losing my hair, so it is quite thin. I am 47 and am going through menopause. My hair is more wavy then curly now and I cannot seem to make it do what I want. I have no idea what kind of hairstyle would help me or if there is something else I should be doing at this time. My husband says I should cut it short — it is shoulder length and layered at this time. I prefer longer hair but it isn’t working well. Any suggestions?

Torch : If the best style for you depends on fullness, then cutting it short will not solve your problem. Volume is simple when working with curly hair. What causes curly hair to lie flat is the humidity factor — which drops in the winter months — and, over-layering curly hair. Cutting wavy hair short cuts the bend or curl right out of the hair. Be sure to study the curl or wave pattern before determining where your hair should be cut. Another cause of flatness is the overuse of products that build up film and coat the hair. To correct your problem, learn how to enhance your curls. This should be done when your hair is quite wet by applying Curl Keeper and some gel to the flat spots. A squishing technique is required, which means you squeeze your hair with your hands until you hear a squishy sound. If you don’t hear the “squish,” you either don’t have enough water or product in your hair. A few clips will help keep the wet squished hair in place until your hair dries on its own. Then you can diffuse your curls to speed up the drying time and expand your hairstyle. Remember, only judge your hairstyle when it is completely dry. This is a process to control your curls.

Q : I have naturally curly hair (obviously). I straightened it yesterday, just because I had basically nothing else to do, and decided to go pay my boyfriend a surprise visit at where he works. When he saw me, he flooded me with all these compliments on my hair and how pretty I looked with it straight. And he asked me why I didn’t straighten it every day. I told him it’s because it takes me an hour and a half, and he said “Okay, get up at four thirty.” I know he won’t like me any less because of my hair, but I can’t stop thinking that maybe if I straightened it every day it would make him more happy? I’m stuck between what’s easier for me, which is keeping it curly, and what he wants. Any suggestions?

Torch : The first impression your boyfriend got was a clean, shiny, controlled, longer hairstyle that was different and new. Change is fun and exciting, and I suggest that you don’t stay with one look all the time. The straight look will begin to look boring over time. What I suggest is to take the time and show him the full potential your curly hair has to offer. Don’t be lazy — take the time to use the correct products and learn how to create perfect frizz-free curls that are clean shiny and soft. Show him what real curls are made of.

Q : My name is Sandra and I am 57 years young. I have been fighting the frizzies all of my life until this past summer. I decided that I was too tired to fight with my hair any longer. I have let it go curly but did not realize how curly it was. I just thought that I had very wavy, frizzy hair. I tried many products and spent a lot of money doing this. I have found that mousse is the best product for me to tame my hair. I am still not satisfied! I have very course, dry, thick hair. I would like smooth, bouncy curls that shine too. Am I asking for a miracle? At my age I do not have the time or the patience that I had as a teenager. Please HELP me! My son is getting married in May, the start of the frizzy season. What can I do without spending thousands of dollars on products? Also ,does the right cut make the difference? I am counting on you to be my curly “Guru.”

Torch : The cut is only important once you have discovered the trick to creating perfect curls. To loosen the tight curls, you start by combing through soaking-wet hair with generous amounts of Curl Keeper from roots to ends. Our Silk Leave-In Conditioner will soften any wiry areas that are harder to control. I MUST emphasize that to do this properly your hair must be soaked with water and have Curl Keeper combed completely through. Some curly heads do this while still in the shower as it can be messy. When your hair is completely detangled, start combing with the smaller teeth of the comb. There is more tension with the smaller teeth which will result in looser curls. Your hair may need to be combed for quite some time before you are content with the looseness of your curl. If you squish your hair it may tighten up. However, if you can let your curls dry as much as possible on their own without touching, Curl Keeper will duplicate that exact formation without the frizz. Once you have dried your hair cuticle in a closed position with Curl Keeper, it will stay that way until it is rewashed. You can reactivate any section that frizzes up by simply running wet hands slowly over any frizzy areas. Once you have mastered controlling the frizz, you will enjoy your curls. The next step is to find a hairstylist that knows how to cut curly hair as your hair seems to have bulk issues.

Jonathan Torch

Q : I have naturally curly hair that gets all frizzy and puffy if I don’t scrunch it with hairspray. I want beautiful curls, but I don’t want to spend hours doing my hair. If I don’t have time to do my hair in the morning, I don’t want to be forced to pull it back in a ponytail. Do you have any suggestions for my hair. Please help!!!!

Torch : I hear your frustration. I am not aware of the type of curls you have, but it sounds like they are very loose. You should not have to restyle your hair daily as long as you follow the correct styling steps and use the correct products. The way to achieve a successful hairstyle is to take the time to distribute Curl Keeper evenly through your hair – from roots to ends. The easiest way to do this is to keep your hair as wet as possible during the preparation stages. Begin by squishing Curl Keeper through your wet hair; as the squishing will result in a tighter curl. For a tighter curl on top, I recommend adding some Gel to the wet hair and continue squishing. Secure the curls on the top of the head with a clip and allow your hair to dry. To speed up the drying process, blow dry with a diffuser. Once your hair begins to dry, unclip the curls and continue diffusing until your hair is fully dry. Your curls will stay soft, bouncy and frizz free until your next shampoo and restyle.

Q : I am a 16-year-old with wavy hair. I have never tried using a diffuser, but I think it might be useful for some of the styles I want to do on my hair. What are your thoughts? What’s good and bad about diffusers?

Torch : Besides Curl Keeper, the invention of the diffuser has probably one of the greatest things for styling curly hair as it speeds up the drying time. As you know, when styling curly hair, the more you fuss, or move your hair when it is wet, the more frizz develops and the more your hair expands. So, you can imagine how the power of a blow dryer can affect curly hair. A diffuser is a simple yet effective controller of such movement. There are several unique diffusers on the market but they all have the same primary function – to allow gentle heat to speed up the drying process without causing a lot of movement from the wind of a blow dryer. When used correctly, the right styling tools will allow you to have total frizz control and style management. With the help of Curl Keeper, your frizz-free hair will allow you to have styling flexibility whether the look is tight curls or loose waves.

Q : I am so frustrated with my hair. I’m hoping you can help! I have long hair (22 inches) and it’s all one length – no bangs or layers. It’s thin to medium, and it’s rounded at the bottom. My curls are Botticelli, and most of the time look pretty good (though a bit dry). My problem is this: the crown of my head is as limp as hair can be! The curls don’t start at the root – they start just below my ears so my hair is that I have a nice light-weight fullness from my shoulders down, but above that it’s practically sticking to my head. Nothing I do seems to give me the body I crave. So I tie it back away from my face and this look is getting really old (I’ve been doing it this way everyday for over six years). I’m ready for a change! I love the length and get the ends trimmed every three to four months.

Torch : Most hairstylists would probably tell you to layer your hair. But, it’s a good thing that you haven’t, as traditional layering will create that dreaded ledge that seems to take forever to grow out. There is definitely some haircutting required, which should only happen when you are clear about what needs to be cut. Common sense tells us that what is holding down your curls is the weight of your one-length hair. It has also been my experience that products containing silicone or wax are the major reason that hair lies flat at the roots, especially on thinner curls. The silicones continue to build up, creating the never-ending cycle of silky, shiny, flat unmanageable hair. Although hair may feel softer and easier to untangle, the style never seems to work.The easiest way to choose the best cutting style is to start with a simple face framing cut. The length should be determined by where you want your curls to fall. First, remove all the buildup and scrunch-style as best you can, allowing the bang hair length to reach into a ponytail if pulled back. You can then ask the hairstylist to cut some face-framing softness only The next step will rely on your styling ability. If you are able to style your hair yourself, the stylist can be more aggressive with the framing. This is a longer process than regular haircutting, but it is the most successful because you will be in charge. With curly hair, it is not only about the cut. It is all about your ability to style your hair. When you learn what products really work on your hair, you will be the master of your hair and you will know when and how often it needs cutting. You don’t need to cut your hair to keep it healthy. The products I would recommend are Curly Hair Solutions Treatment Shampoo and Slip Detangler.

Q : I had frizzy curls when I was younger, and now my hair is a looser curly (3B, I think). But it just doesn’t curl the way that I want it to. The curls look great from the back of my head. But around my face and the top of my head, the curls are sort of flat. I was actually wondering if getting a perm would make my curls look the way I want them to. I don’t want to spend a lot of time with a ton of products to get my curls looking good every morning, so I thought a perm would be an easier solution. I would like fuller-looking curls and curlier curls too. I just don’t know how the perm will come out. I don’t want to end up looking like Bozo the Clown. My hair is just above my shoulders. Suggestions?

Torch : There are many other ways to reach your hairstyling goals without perming. Although perming sounds logical and, in theory, makes sense, the results are short-lived, and the chemical damage may take time to repair. The main cause of flatness is using products that contain silicone. You can identify silicone on the ingredient list as any word ending in “cone”. You can shampoo as often as you want with Curly Hair Solutions Treatment Shampoo and your hair will feel much bouncier. To get a tighter curl formation, use the Curl Keeper as a styling lotion. While your hair is wet, flip your head over and apply a generous amount of Curl Keeper, squeezing it through your hair until you hear a squishing sound. Clip some curls on top of your head and allow your hair to dry without disturbing the clips. Using a diffuser on your blow dryer will speed up the drying process. The weight of the water in your hair will loosen the curl so it falls into the “S” formation. To achieve a curlier look, allow your hair to dry on its own while clipped up against the scalp. Curl Keeper will hold the curl without the look and feel of having tons of product in your hair.

Q : Whenever I go to the beach, I have the same problem. My curls just flop and get straighter from the dampness/humidity in the air! it’s not even frizzy – just straighter with no curl. I have loose curls and need to scrunch them and keep my hair in clips to make it curl more. I’m going to the shore this weekend, and need advice on how to keep my hair curly instead of it turning into straight hair!

Torch : Just as climate conditions affect curl patterns, different styling products control curls in different ways. I recommend using Curly Hair Solutions Gel, as the holding power of the Gel is much stronger than the hold of Curl Keeper. Use extra effort in scrunch-drying techniques and some hairspray to finish your style. Most curly heads don’t suffer loss of curl in the ocean air. In Canada, during our cold winters, the central heating systems dry the air, which contribute to a weaker curl formation and flatness in hairstyles.

Q : I’m looking for some help on finding a professional, serious look for my curls while at work. I have very thick, long ringlets (3B). I’ve worn my hair short, long, and shoulder length. Short was great when my kids were babies, but I think short hair makes me look much older. (I’m 37, most people think I’m 5-10 years younger when my hair is long). I keep it long now for a few other reasons. The curl is so much better with some weight, not to mention the fact that my husband loves it long! I’ve found products I love too! Also, I live about an hour from a major city, though, and I can’t find a decent stylist where I live. With my busy work schedule, I can only get to the city for a haircut every 4-6 months! Here’s my dilemma. I am a professional, and I think my long curly hair makes me look younger. Unfortunately, this is a disadvantage in my profession. I’ve noticed that when I keep my hair long, people seem to take me less seriously. I have been experimenting with ways of wearing it up, but it’s so thick and heavy that I get headaches or it just doesn’t stay in place. I’d love some recommendations for professional thick and curly hairstyles for the workplace that allow me to keep my long curls when I’m not at work. Any ideas?

Torch : To have a more sophisticated look, make sure that frizz is totally eliminated – 100 percent. Whether curly hair is worn long or short, curls need to be frizz-free to look professional. It also helps to keep your hair off your face at all times. Try pinning it back or styling with clips, hair bands or other hair accessories. But do try to avoid wearing it in a ponytail at the office. Make sure your hair color is always fresh and shiny. Choose colors that reflect the light. In addition, having clean and healthy hair will demonstrate your commitment to personal hygiene.

Learn more about and ask questions of Torch and our other columnists.

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Jonathan Torch

Q : Recently I have noticed that the curl in the back of my head — especially in the crown area — is a lot less curly. After it is dry, a lot of the curl falls out and becomes wavy within a half an hour. However the hair framing my face has gotten even curlier. In addition, my hair seems more limp lately and less thick. Do you recommend any products for my problem?

Torch : A 7-year cycle of hair growth means that your hair is constantly changing. As no two people are the same, no two curls are the same. This makes you unique, and that is why every curly hair cut needs to be customized. As I understand your question, the cut, products and styling techniques need alteration. If your hair has been cut to one length, this will also contribute to your problem. You might needs some long layers. Your shampoo and conditioner should not leave a silicone film that seals your hair cuticles together. This causes your hair to become even more unmanageable and oil will build up at the root area. A properly pH-balanced shampoo and conditioner will return your hair to its original healthy state. Using Curl Keeper will allow you to enjoy frizz-free curls. For extra volume, when your hair is wet and before you start to air dry, “squish” the looser curls, clip the curls together and allow your hair to dry. Once your hair is dry, the curls will have more bounce.

Q : I have naturally curly hair that’s not exactly ringlets, but not wavy — just semi-tight, frizzy curls. I was just wondering how I should sleep with wet hair after washing? I usually separate my hair into two parts, twist each part, and roll them into two buns — one on each side of my head — in the hopes that frizz will be eliminated. I’m scared of putting it in a loose ponytail, because then it will become frizzy and messed up when I move in my sleep. Also, would you recommend either relaxing or softening my hair? I really want full, shiny, supple, loose “S” curls, and want to know how to achieve that look.

Torch : When you twist your hair and roll it up in a bun to dry, it takes on a unique shape while you are asleep. The secret to frizz-free style control depends on the shape the curls are in when they are formed. Try distributing Curl Keeper from roots to ends on wet hair and “squish” the curls until the desired ringlets start to form. Sleeping on wet hair is no easy stunt. We get a lot of e-mail from clients who get better results when they wrap their hair carefully in a special hair towel so the curls can dry on their own. The next day, they run wet hands through their curls, which reactivates the curls. Curl Keeper is water-soluble and is reactivated by water.

Q : I used to have a head full of tight, defined curls. In the past year or so, I’ve noticed a significant change. No matter what products I use or how I scrunch or diffuse or twist, my hair will not curl like it used to. It’s now a full wave instead of a curl. As much as I hated and prayed that my curls would disappear when I was a young girl, I miss them now that it’s happened. Could this be a sign that I’ve done too much to my hair over the years, with blow-drying, coloring, and over-styling? Or is it more likely that I have just outgrown my curls, as hair tends to change after a certain number of years? I don’t assume there’s a way to get my waves back to curls again, is there?

Torch : It is true that hair goes through a seven-year cycle of change. The changes can be very subtle or very dramatic. In your case, it sounds like the change has been quite significant and will require different styling techniques and products than you have been used to. As long as your hair is healthy, you might want to avoid heavy conditioners and any products that contain silicone, as they will contribute to flatter hair styling. One-length hair may need some gentle, curly layers. Learn how to use a diffuser, take your time and perfect your curl preparation prior to styling.

Q : I’d like to leave the gym looking manageable. I want wash and wear hair. HELP!!!

Torch : Having great-looking, frizz-free curls is very easy when you use the right products and learn to use them correctly. When your hair has been cleansed and conditioned with properly pH-balanced products, you will not be left with an oily film, and you can evenly distribute Curl Keeper from roots to ends on wet hair. Frizz-free curls will easily appear when you have “squished” your hair while it is still wet. Blow-drying is not necessary if you are leaving your hair curly. However, the best results totally depend on the products and techniques used.

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Q : I am 34, just had my second baby and have found my curls have really loosened up the past few years. Lately, the ends are stick straight, while the roots hold more curl. I have tried everything – leave-in conditioners, mousse, gel, etc. They all seem to make my hair crunchy and the ends are still straight. I was trying to grow my hair out but ended up cutting it last month because it was so bad. What would you recommend? Do you think that pregnancy hormones have affected my hair, and that there is no hope?? Or is this typical and will it come back? I remember the days it used to get really tight in the humidity, or when air-dried, would curl right up. Now it just is BAD!! I appreciate any help! Thanks.

Torch : The hormone changes during pregnancy are so unpredictable that it is very difficult to adapt to. For more information on hormonal changes, check out this article. But never give up because there is always hope. To control the curls, focus on the quality of your shampoos and conditioners. Silicones often build up in the hair and coat it which causes your curls to become flat and loosen. On the ingredient listing of your shampoo and conditioner you can recognize if the product contains any silicones. Look for any ingredient that ends with “cone”. An example would be “dimethicone,” commonly found in shampoos and conditioners. I definitely welcome you to send us a picture so it would be much easier to personalize a consultation for you to suggest styles and methods.

Q : I have a curly, medium-length bob and I am blond. I find blond hair seems to show frizz more than dark curly hair. Please tell me if you know of a product that really tames frizz without a stiff or gluey feel to the hair. I like my hair touchable soft. Thank You. Jann.

Torch : You are 100 percent correct that blond hair looks frizzier as light travels right through it. With a deeper richer color in the hair, the light reflects off the hair creating an illusion of fewer frizzies. What your hair needs is shine. I recommend reformulating your hair color to enhance the shine. Curl Keeper will instantly stop frizz and leave your hair shiny without the look and feel of heavy product buildup. You can use as much as needed to control those stubborn frizzies.

Q : My hair is really driving me mad and I need some advice! My hair is fine and soft (frizz isn’t such a problem), and there’s quite a lot of it. However, the top layer of my hair is almost completely straight, while the bottom layers are curly to varying degrees (very tight corkscrews at the front side, looser more wavy curls at the back). The result is that it looks like a complete mess most of the time. I’ve tried crunching/diffusing my hair but the curl on the top layers simply won’t hold. Do you have any advice about how to even out the curliness? I’m really fed up with looking like I’ve got three different people’s hair! Every bit of advice I’ve seen in magazines assumes curly hair is dry and/or frizzy AND evenly curled. It seems like no one else has the same problem! Thanks, Christina.

Torch : Christina, I have many clients who have the same problem as you. Curly hair has the tendency to change every seven to eight years. You are probably in the middle of this stage. Without a photo it is difficult to consult but here it goes. Traditional layering will be disastrous on your hair but the concept of adding shorter pieces on the top will create the bounce needed on top to complete your style. Learning to enhance your curl on top and to calm the curl below is all about how to use the right product with proper instruction. I suggest distributing Curl Keeper from roots to ends and add Curly Hair Solutions Gel to the Curl Keeper for the layers on top. Once the product is in the hair bend over forward with a diffuser to scrunch dry the looser curls on the top while leaving the tighter curl underneath to dry on its own. This will create an even look of curls instead of different levels of curl throughout the hair.

Q : I like my curls short or long but hate the thick, unruly “Christmas tree” triangular look while it grows out. Often I give up after months and get a short cut because I can’t stand walking around looking goofy. I need help.

Torch : It seems like you would be the perfect candidate for the Tunnel Cut. I would only recommend this cut after personally seeing your hair or at least a photo of your hair. Learning to control your curls during the growing out stage is dependent on the products you use and especially the styling techniques. Try allowing your hair to dry 100 percent on its own without blow drying. This process will take longer, but as you have experienced, the more movement during the drying process, the more your hair will expand. Your hair will love the control that Curl Keeper has to offer. The weight of the water while your hair is wet will keep the hair lying flat during the drying process. This should allow you to tolerate your hair while in the growing stages.

Q : I have long, red, curly hair (think Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman — gone wrong) and am about to start a new job where I’d like to make a good impression. I always either leave my hair down or tie it back in a pony tail if I’m having a bad hair day. Do you have any suggestions for looks/styles that would look more professional? Preferably with as little prep time as possible in the mornings! I have very little imagination when it comes to my hair!

Torch : The time it takes to style your hair is all about preparation. The time and effort in the preparation will result in style and curl management. For a more professional look, learn to control your frizz 100 percent. Once the frizz is controlled, your confidence level will increase, you will be ready to address the professional world and finding a style that fits your face will be much easier. Choose a style that enhances the shape of your face. Some face framing may be required. Learn how to control your curls and style before taking the plunge of a big haircut that will change your whole look.