Lorraine Massey

Q: I bought “Curly Girl,” and I’ve been buying conditioner from the health-food store and it works really well. My hair is curly and a little past my shoulders. The back of my hair curls well underneath, but the hair on top is less curly. I was wondering if I grow it any longer is it going to curl even less, and should I put more layers in it? I have Botticelli curls.

Lorraine: Layers sound like a fantastic idea. You answered your own question and your instincts tell you that a few gentle layers, cut dry so you can tell where they are going to fall realistiCurly, is a good choice. Enjoy your new look!

Q: Thank you for writing “Curly Girl.” I learned so much and am loving my curls and learning to take care of them. I’ve told every curly girl I know about your book, some are even thinking about finding their inner curl! Unfortunately, before finding your line, I ordered a curl cleansing conditioner that contains witch hazel. Wouldn’t that be drying to my hair? I haven’t opened it yet, and I’m afraid to use it until I hear from you.

Lorraine: Your Curl’instincts tell you that witch hazel is an astringent and our precious curls do not need any more drying agents. If I may recommend One Condition. There should be no worries in understanding that what goes into your hair should be just as important as what goes into your body. Enjoy giving your hair what it deserves!

Q: I have naturally curly, but colored, hair. I used to have a huge head of hair. I’m 40 now, it’s just past my shoulders when wet. It’s definitely tame and normal-looking now. I have three problems: my hair falls out about a handful every day (my thyroid is fine) 2. The ends are always damaged. 3. I don’t have the energy to fuss around in the morning (Three kids under three years old). I don’t like curls brushing my eyes like dangly wisps. That gives me a headache by the end of the day. What kind of cuts/shapes would you recommend?

Lorraine: My first question is always whether you still use shampoo with sodium lauryl sulfate. That might be part of the reason for your hair falling out. But there are so many variables that can cause it to fall out. If you are using a shampoo with SLS, discontinue using it immediately and switch to DevaCurl No-Poo or DevaCare No-Poo. A shorter haircut sounds like a good idea but make sure it is cut dry with movement so it’s not going to spring back too much and become helmet-like. Leave some length on top, and please, please whatever you do, make sure your bangs/fringe is cut dry and every curl in its natural placement and not cut straight across with equal lengths.

Q: I am a 17-year-old girl whose 3c hair has been getting progressively curlier as time goes on. I love my curly hair, but every day is a gamble. Sometimes (rarely) my curly hair looks great. Most of the time, however, it ruins my day because it just won’t sit the way I want it to. I think that the problem lies in my quest for length. Two years ago, I got a cut that was all wrong. The outer layer of my hair is too short, and doesn’t match up to the curly hair. Since that cut, I’ve been waiting for my layers to grow out, but they haven’t. I’m on the verge of straightening it. Is there any way that I can make my hair grow longer, or at least try to make it look better while it is in this unfortunate style?

Lorraine: I feel for you, and millions of other curlies do, too! It took me seven years (no joke) to grow out a hair murder! Babe, just be patient and watch my new DevaDVD (available soon in CurlMart). I promise you that you eventually will love your hair for life. Remember that your hair is not going anywhere — only with you. Don’t misrepresent yourself with the straightening threat. You and your hair will only prolong the inevitable, only to come down this path one more time!

Q: I’ve got a haircut rather than style question. I really love the whole “mod” look that is in style now, and I’ve noticed that a lot of those cuts include bangs — either really blunt, thick, very straight bangs, or more angled, wispy, side-swept bangs. Having shoulder-length curly hair (I’d call it a 3b according to NaturallyCurly.com’s guidelines), I feel like bangs might be nearly impossible. But I’ve been coveting them for months. So, for a 3b like me, are bangs out of the question? And if not, do you have any suggestions for how to incorporate them into a haircut?

Lorraine: I love the idea of bangs/fringe! I like to call them noncommittal bangs or s’bangels. Just do it! Remember to cut them gently, unevenly, one curl at a time, in their natural placement, with dry hair. When they’re stretched, they should reach the top of your mouth — possibly the chin — springing back to gently brush your eyes! It’s a sexy look, and it’s time for a change.

Q: I’m wondering if it’s possible to get my limp, thin hair to be very curly? I probably fall into the 2a category.

Lorraine: I’d like to think anything is possible. Wherever there’s a wave, there’s a curl. How curly? I can’t tell, however, in my 30 years in the hair business (I was six when I started!), I have seen girls who think they only have a little curl who turn out to have a lot! They have a little and it turns out they have a lot! Simply by using a shampoo free method (moisture springs things up) and consistently reminding the hair of what it is (no blowfrying and remember to scrunch upward) you’ll see how much curl you truly have.

AHHHH! I love the summer. Moisture and humidity are now my friends. Since humidity will only increase if global warming really is upon us, straight jackets are not going to stand a chance. You’ll be blow-fried one minute and poof the next! I am just a hairdresser. I do not claim to know everything. But of this I’m sure. What your hair does naturally is as beautiful as it gets. It needs to be understood, nurtured and loved.

Q: I have very thick curly hair. I’m so sick of trying to grow it long. It is now a little above my shoulder and it seems like it’s been that length for a couple of years. My problem is my hair is growing “out” rather than down. It has long layers, so I don’t understand why it gets so thick when it dries. Do you have any suggestions for my hair stylist about how I should be styling it?

Lorraine: Puffy hair is caused by several things. 1. You still shampoo. 2. You touch it too much during the drying process. 3. You’re not leaving enough gel in your hair. Shampoos with sodium laurel sulfate (SLS.) can also lead to chemical breaks, which prevents the hair from growing in a healthy way. SLS. is inorganic. It does not deserve to be in the company of your organic, priceless hair fiber. Cleanse the hair daily with DevaCurl No-Poo. Try this post-cleansing trick: Apply No-Poo to dry hair a few minutes before showering (this is especially good for thick, dense hair). This allows the hair to receive more moisture. Then wet the hair and work in a bit more No-Poo, rinse and add as much One Condition as you like. Comb through with your fingers, rinse a little out and leave the rest in. Until your hair is longer, don’t bend forward to scrunch but instead stay upright and squeeze out the excess water with paper towels or an old t-shirt. Add a palmful of Arc AnGel to your hands and distribute evenly, scrunching it into your hair. Put clips in at the crown and front of the hair and DO NOT DISTURB!

Q: I used to have a head full of tight, defined curls. In the past year or so, I’ve noticed a significant change. No matter what products I use or how I scrunch or diffuse or twist, my hair will not curl like it used to. It’s now a full wave instead of a curl. As much as I hated and prayed that my curls would disappear when I was a young girl, I now miss them. Could this be a sign that I’ve done too much to my hair over the years with blow-drying, coloring, and over styling? Or is it more likely that I have just outgrown my curls because my hair has changed its texture over the years? Is there a way to get my waves back to curls again.

Lorraine: It could be that your hair is too long, you’re brushing it, you’re shampooing it, you’re coloring it or your hormones are changing. There are many variables.

Q: About three months ago, I got one of the worst haircuts of my life. The guy who cut it had straight hair, and he did everything you say not to do in your book: he layered it like a straight cut, texturized/thinned it, cut it wet, etc. Shortly after the cut, I discovered your book, and have been poo-less ever since. This seems to work well for me in terms of the health of my hair, except when I accidentally use too much product. Finding the right balance has been difficult. I have Botticelli curls, so the cut lopped off any ringlets and left me with a wavy, chin-length mess. I’ve resigned myself to the fact that I’ll have to let it grow out for a while until it can look halfway decent. But in the meantime, it looks pretty horrid. My boss, who has stick-straight hair (and lots of ideas about what hair should look like), actually came out and said she hates my hair, and wishes that I would comb it. She thinks it looks dirty and messy, and is embarrassed to take me with her traveling. To me, it looks and feels clean, but the cut leaves it slightly disheveled. I’ve been doing as much as I can to make it look decent without spending hours on it or just wearing a bag over my head.My question is this: What do I do in the meantime with such a bad cut? I’ve been doing as much as I can from your book, but it’s still pretty bad. I can’t use gel right now because it weighs down my hair too much, making it look dirty.

Lorraine: Just be patient, my sweet Morning Glory. Your boss is going to eat those words. Use Low-Poo at the scalp — as much as you would if you were applying a face cream. Rinse well. Skip the conditioner unless you need it at the very ends. After rinsing, and while you’re still in the shower, squeeze in B’Leave In. Get out of the shower and bend forward. Squeeze upright with your paper towel to remove the excess water weight. While you’re in the same position, apply a palm full of Arc Angell and evenly distribute it throughout the hair, squeezing it into the hair shaft. Use clips at the root to release the hair of water/gel weight, or put in a thin headband. Don’t touch it during the drying process.

Q: I have very thick, very coarse. dry hair (auburn with some gray) with Botticelli curls that are prone to frizz. A year and a half ago, my sister-in-law gave me your “Curly Girl” book. I immediately started the curly girl method with no shampoo, leaving most or all of the conditioner in my hair. The result has been beautiful, shiny curls. I live in Colorado where the humidity is extremely low. Our first trip to a more humid climate was scheduled for this past December. I was looking forward to it, secretly hoping that now my hair would just curl tighter with the added humidity. Much to my dismay, all of my wonderful curl disappeared and was replaced by an enormous head full of frizz! Once back home, the shiny curls came back. We will travel to two humid climates this summer. What can I do to keep my curls and avoid the frizz?

Lorraine: Curly girls are natural weather barometers. Frizz factors reside in different climates on different days. My rule of thumb is to always use more rather than less. So what if you use too much One Condition on a certain day? So what if you use too much Angell? For Curly Girls, that can never hurt.

Q: I have had a wild curly mop of brown hair since I was little. I have always been the different one. All my friends have stick-straight hair. It’s hard to be 16 and fit in when you have what looks like a lion’s mane of curly hair. When I was younger, I would braid it up, twist it into a bun and yes, I hate to admit it, straighten it. Last year I put a lot of product in it to weigh it down and take the frizz out. In the beginning of February, a lady with curly hair came up to me and asked if my hair was natural. Then she recommended that I read your book “Curly Girl”. I read it in a day and loved every chapter. That very day I decided never to shampoo my hair with suds like “dishwashing detergent” again. It has been two months since I last washed my hair with shampoo, and it feels great. The frizz is gone, its soft, and radiant.I only have one problem with it. The upper half is healthy and loving the moisture, but it seems like the bottom two inches are still in distress from the previous mistreatment. The hair isn’t brittle or split, but it doesn’t have that healthy soft feel. I really hate to cut it off because I am trying to grow it out (Like Emmy Rossums in the Phantom of The Opera…I just loved that movie with a curly-haired heroine!). I have tried leaving conditioner on the ends after I get our of the shower. Do you have any ideas about how I could get the lower ends to look healthy?

Lorraine: It sounds like you’re on the right track. Are you using DevaCare One Condition? You must try this because it has the most intense hydrating factors you could ask for in a conditioner. Not all conditioners are created equal. Until you get the One Condition, use olive oil, shea butter or jojoba oil. Keep it in overnight and rinse out the next day. Then apply more conditioner after the first rinse and leave that one in.

Spring is truly in the hair. I have been a hairdresser for 28 years, and I feel it more now then ever before. A tidal wave, if you will, of curly girls are coming out from all over this Curlywurld. But we still have a lot of work a’head. We are still trying to understand this organic force of nature that is above us, and sometimes truly beyond us.Not to worry, as long as we stick together and be a part of the change.This world will be ours and curldomination will prevail .

Q: You, The Hair DresserSince you’re a leading stylist in the world of curly hair, I’d love to know some of the curly hair trends. It seems like stylists are always focused on growing curls out. But I’d love to cut my hair really short, and I need some ideas. I want a funky, Bohemian but current Afro for 3b to 3c hair. If you have any images, I’d love to see them. 

Lorraine: I agree with you. I love seeing shorter shapes- – just shapes in general. I have never met you so to be realistic, I can’t send you images. The truth is that it’s all about you and only you. Take a good long look in the mirror. Look at your hair right now as it is. Then imagine it shorter. Make sure you are honoring its naturalness. Also be sure to cut it dry, whatever you decide to do. And remember less is more at first.

Q: I’ve been following a no-poo, conditioner wash-only routine for a week now, and it seems that my hair is getting less curly. I’m pretty bummed because I wanted to have beautiful curly hair, but I think I might need to go back to straightening it. I’m not sure I’m doing your routine right. On days that I don’t conditioner wash, my hair looks especially dull and stringy. Is it OK to conditioner wash everyday?

Massey: Straight BackwardsGirlfriend, don’t even go there with the straighteming thing. Are you threatening me or your hair? I think you’re not cleansing your hair properly. Maybe you’re using too much product? Make sure you rinse thoroughly. It sounds like you have a low frizz factor. Yes, it is OK to use conditoner to cleanse as long as you’re massaging and removing dirt particles and buildup from the scalp. Get out of the shower and scrunch upwards. Apply B’Leave-In first and then Angell. Clip hair at the roots and do not disturb until thoroughly dry. Loosen gel cast and your authentic self will prevail.

Q: After reading “Curly Girl” a few weeks ago, I decided to stop shampooing. My hair already feels healthier and looks better than it did when I was shampooing every day. My only problem is my mom is convinced that it’s gross to not wash my hair. She’s stick straight, of course. She just doesn’t get it. How do I explain to her that you don’t need to wash your hair everyday.

Massey: Mommy DearestWhen you are first telling someone you are not pooing your hair with detergents, you, of course, will get a reaction because shampoo is all we know. It is our only (brainwashed) form of reference. It’s what we think clean is supposed to be. Remember: You are not washing laundry here. You are cleansing the most beautiful, priceless fabric in this entire world. Also your hair is visual. It is already looking better in this seemingly unconventional way. Your hair speaks for itself. Remember your scalp is an extention of your facial skin. Would you put shampoo on your face? Sodium lauryl sulfate, which is in all lathering shampoos, also is in dishwashing and laundry detergents.

Q: My hair looks pretty 3b, but underneath it is soooo curly and I get really bad shrinkage. I’m so tired of my hair never looking any longer because the more it grows, the more it shrinks and curls up on itself. It makes my hair look like a triangle. any suggestions to reduce shrinkage?

Massey: Talk To Your ShrinkHow frustrating is that! My hair does the same thing. I call them “hermet curls.” This is what I do: After cleansing with No-Poo and One Condition, I apply B’leave-in and Angell. Clip the ends of the hair to elongate the curls underneath. This provides extra gravity to those lightweight babies [ Curly Girl page 125]. I call it “weight a minute.”

Q: I find that my biggest issue with my hair is that the curls stack on top of each other. It really isn’t frizz. It’s just the curls get tighter and shorter as they dry, and there isn’t any other direction for them to go than up. Is this a haircut issue, or am I using the wrong products? I love my hair when it is wet. But as it dries, I stop liking it. I now use Frizz-Ease Serum. What should I do?

Massey: Up, Up And a ” Way “There is always a way. Have you tried growing your hair out? Obviously the weightlessness makes it contract and cluster. If you grew it out, gravity would bring the curls down and separate them. I suggest putting extra B’Leave In into your hair after you’ve One Conditioned. And finish off with some extra Angell. That also has weight-bearing elements. Also try putting clips on the ends of the hair as it dries to elongate the curls. When you use extra Deva products they don’t make your hair look or feel crispy. Frizz-Ease just sits on the hair and suffocates it.

Q: I’ve read the “Curly Girl” book and just started on your process of better caring for my Boticelli curls. My hair is rather dense and takes upwards of four hours to dry. Before I started your routine, I would let my hair air dry overnight. I’m trying to let it dry in the morning — getting up a few hours early. But this still doesn’t seem to be enough time. Should I continue to do this, or go back to letting my hair dry overnight? I’m pretty busy and am not terribly satisfied with the results I get when I diffuse. Any words of wisdom would be fantastic!

Massey: Sleep-in BeautyI think if you have been having better results sleeping on it, go back to that. Actually the clip routine is simulating weightlessness. It is a good alternative for when you’re horizontal rather than verticle. This is not for everyone. It’s better on longer, low-frizz factor Botticelli and Cockacelli curls.

Q: I have wavy/curly, thick hair. I love straightening it and everyone says how cute it is when it’s straight. I feel more confident with it straight, too. I never feel comfortable going out without it straightened. But it takes sooo long to do. Any ideas on how I can make it look sexy cury? I need more time to sleep!

Massey: Is Your Hair DYING To Tell You Something?It’s the placebo effect playing with your mind. If you don’t work with your own beautiful hair and you blow fry your curls, of course you’re going to get compliments, and your fake confidence rises. To me, that’s the equivalent of wearing a girdle that makes you look slimmer and makes your bust look larger. When you get home, you have to take it off and face the truth. One day, you find you’ve gotten tired of lying to yourself, and actually want to do something about it. Words aren’t going to do it. But if you want to come to New York City, we will give you an intervention workshop for when your’re truly ready to commit. I’m here for you.

We’ve lived too long in a world drowned in consumerism, with celebrity-marketed hype constantly in our faces and hair.  Everyone wants to look the same — cloned cookie cutters with poker straitjacket hair.  But I’m now noticing volume and softness is back.  Ripples, waves, curls, kinks, naturally straight — and even a little underarm hair — is authenticity sexy.  Poker straight will no longer exist, especially with global warming upon us.  There seems to be an emphasis on individuality and finding a greater freedom in one’s self.  Curly girls and boys, this is our time. We are beyond trends. We are back, and with our curls we’ll stay. 

Q: Could you give ideas of what to do with hair that is growing out?  I like my curls short or long but hate the thick, unruly ‘Christmas tree’ triangular look while it grows out.  Often I give up after months and get a short cut because I can’t stand walking around looking doofy.<

br class="webkit-block-placeholder" />Lorraine: I can certainly try to give you some ideas for when your hair is growing out, but I’m not certain that they are going to help the situation at all. How many times in your life have you been at this point?  There is most definitely an awkward stage you go through, but now is the time to actually commit. Zen out and allow your curls to unfurl. When you get to the point where you are about to cut it, or even pull it out, call a ‘Curl-Friend Sponsor’ and let it be.  The truth is, gravity is what stops the hair from gaining volume.  Add to that shampoo drying out the hair, and factor in the hair’s natural instinct to grab moisture from the atmosphere, and the result is the POOF!  You should be cleansing with No-Poo and leave as much conditioner as your thirsty/dehydrated hair needs to feel replenished.  Remember: DO NOT DISTURB your hair as it dries.  You’ll see!

Q: I love Devacurl products. I am using shampoo Low Poo and One Condition and they are great. I love Angell too. I know Angell gel is for wet hair after conditioning,  but I am wondering if I can use Angell on my complete dry hair? Mariagrazia 

Lorraine: Every time someone uses the word ‘shampoo’ in the salon they are required to donate a dollar into our Hurricane Katrina Relief Fund — our products have no connection to that evil word whatsoever.  If you mix half of a bottle of Mister-Right and half of a bottle of AnGel you shall get ‘Mist-er AnGel, a fabulous spray-gel for use on either wet or dry hair.<

br class="webkit-block-placeholder" />Q: I have a curly medium-length blonde bob. I find blonde hair shows  frizz more than dark curly hair. Please tell me if you know of a product that really tames frizz without a stiff or gluey feel to the hair. I like my hair touchably soft. Thanks. Jann.

Lorraine: I disagree that blondes show more frizz, especially if your hair is well-hydrated from within and enhanced with an angelic gel.  Angéll is designed for both fine and thick curls — apply less for fine curls and double up for thicker curls.  No matter how much Angéll you apply on your hair, it will dry with a cast around it to crystallize the curl and lock it in place. Then when it is completely dry, you scrunch it out and it dissolves to give you that touchably soft feel you desire  Jann, if I were you, I’d be generous with the amount of Angéll I use and graze the exposed top area of the hair downwards with Set it Free sprayed onto your hands.  Another important point is not to disturb while drying. Poof be gone!   

Q: When I was little, my hair was so curly that it was practically in ringlets. But as I grew older, the curl loosened. Now, as a college student, my hair is just wavy. The problem with this is that the underside is almost completely straight while parts of the top are wavy and other parts are not. I still have that course-like curly texture. The bigger problem is that I either have to take tons of time blowdrying with a diffuser or straightening my hair to make it look decent. Otherwise, when I go natural, it looks like I got out of bed and didn’t brush it. I would really like to be able to wear my hair both curly and straight. I want my curly hair back without it looking fake or crunchy. Any advice is appreciated.

Lorraine: Hair is like an unruly child. According to textbooks, what they crave is consistency — a constant approach.  Since I started this approach, my hair (as intended by nature) has been faithful and loyal to me in its frizz-free curl consistency. But it’s slightly different on a day-to-day basis, so I never become bored with my hair. You should give your hair the organic respect it deserves; remind your hair what it really is and what it really wants to do.  You, and only you, are the sole custodian of your hair and it will only give you what you give it.  Start to undress it!  For example: Stop using shampoo to cleanse.Stop using brushes on your locks; it’s like beating a child.Stop blow-frying it.Stop using alcohol and plastic resin based products.  Would you put alcohol on a flower?      Give your hair three months with this consistent natural responsive approach. Follow the above program religiously and I promise you’ll be there and never want to go back.  It’s hair, or there!  Having authentically straight hair is a beautiful thing; blow-frying to have straight hair is a fashion faux pas.  Take the approach mentioned above to maximize your hair’s potential.  

Q: I love curly hair but when I try to make my hair more curly, all it gets is very, very wavy. I don’t  like the fake-looking curls, and scrunching my hair doesn’t help at all. I know guys like hair with some ‘bounce’ in it. But all my hair gets is poofy and it makes me so frustrated that I end up hating my hair. Please tell me how to bring out the curl in my hair!

Lorraine: Love me, love my curls!  I believe that whatever your hair may be — curly or wavy — you’re trying way too hard.  It sounds like you may be overscrunching. Constantly touching hair with your hands while it’s drying creates frizz and dissolves the gel too early.  The water and gel bearing weight can pull curls to the point of waves.  If you’re still using detergents (shampoo) that cause outward bounds in the hair, I suggest stopping.  But you can try this simple approach: If you do not have No-Poo, cleanse with your conditioner only tomorrow morning.  Friction on your scalp with your fingers does the job beautifully!  Rinse and leave in a sufficient amount.  With your hair still saturated lean your head forward and proceed to scrunch upward with your bare hands to remove excess water, then repeat this step with paper towels or a used T-shirt.  Once you have removed all the water possible, tilt your head back so your hair is in its natural fall position.  Then find where your hair needs height and grab, lift, and clip directly at the scalp.  You can let your hair dry naturally, diffuse at a distance, or sit under a hooded dryer.  When your hair is completely dry, remove the clips and scrunch upwards to break the cast.  Believe me — this will work wonders for you.

I must start by saying thank you for your questions.  The more you seek knowledge, the more advanced you’ll be as a highly educated Curly Girl.  What worries me at time is my industry; I love my craft, but the industry makes me mad. Why?  I still see a lot of Curly Girls trying to be straight, and there’s always a surprised look on their faces when I shout out “Hey, Curly Girl!!”  They think nobody can really tell. I think of their denial and then I wonder, is it them in denial of their hair, or is it their beloved hair stylist? I recently spent time at The International Beauty Show; my question was answered.  Hairdressers from all over the world were approaching the DevaCurl booth.  A few of them would evaluate my hair and insist that I had used a curling iron.  “That’s not natural,” a couple of them exclaimed, “it’s too perfect.”  I was insulted by their accusation, and made it evident with my reply: “How sad that you think this is not natural. You don’t know what natural hair looks like anymore because you’ve been so busy manufacturing hair and blowfrying us Curly Girls to our hair’s death.”  These stylists are essentially imposing on instead of responding to the hair.  Our need to complicate things is so rampant, which is precisely why the Curly Girl approach is so radicurl in its simplicity. We as Curly Girls must stand strong in our individual belief in our own hair, relentlessly seeking its truth with Curl knowledge.  You don’t need to be frustrated, dry and frizzy anymore.  Only then shall we push our hair care professionals to constantly update their data for the Curly Girl, crowned and glorious in her natural habitat.***

Q: I love your book. I finally know how to care and style your my hair. Now at 30 years old, I wear my hair down and I’m trying to grow it long. I find my hair looks better, and it’s easier to style when long. But my question is how do I get rid of the hard, crunchy feeling so the hair can move? Maria 

Lorraine: How Do You Solve a Problem like Maria’s? Easy.  When hair is wet, apply AnGel.  Do not disturb it until it’s dry.  Once it’s dry, scrunch it out – the stiff feeling should disappear.  The reason why AnGel is more effective than other gels is that it is free of the hidden alcohols and plastic resins other gels commonly include.  Remember, this product is SO important because it is in your hair the longest — 24 to 48 hours.  Add Set it Free to the AnGel, and you have a long-lasting, frizz taming, conditioning hold.  

Q: I have long fine hair that has a medium curl to it.  When I let it go curly, it is usually flat on the top with little to no curl, and then it gets curly on the bottom.  I end up with a triangle head!  How can I add volume and curls to the top of my head?  I’ve been trying salt water. Does that do anything? And I hate gel of any kind.  I think it looks to crispy when it’s dry.  I just want soft natural curls with all over body. Thanks! Jessie. 

Lorraine:  Jess You CAN Have Soft, Beautiful Curls All Over!Set it Free is our new spray, and a lot of people say it reminds them of the beach.  Spray it on already scrunched, wet hair and clip the root to release the curl of its own weight.  Our hair is twice its usual weight when it’s wet, so of course it flattens at the root during the drying process.  Clips are an easy way to prevent this.  Keep them in until your hair is completely dry. Q: I have thick curly/wavy hair and it tends to stick flat to my head. How do I make it look better? I love how you wear your curls and that is how I would like my hair to look. I have to use a ton of hair spray for my hair for my hair not to frizz out. Please help me. Amanda.  

Lorraine:  Hair Spray?  Not the Weigh to Go!Thick hair is heavier so the clip technique should apply to you too, my darling Amanda.  But that hair spray has to GO, GO, GO!  Hair spray on already-thirsty hair makes it dry beyond belief — the frizz will disappear as soon as the hair spray does.  I promise you, frizz is just a curl waiting to happen. Q:  I’m into my second week on the ‘Curly Girl’ program and am noticing some flakiness on my scalp. I’m tempted to fall off the no-shampoo wagon and scrub my head with my old shampoo. I’ve resisted thus far and just purchased your products (Chocolate Lust No-Poo and One Condition). I’m somewhere between a corkscrew and a Botecelli girl, if that tells you anything. Do you have any suggestions for flakiness? My curls already look better and feel a lot softer, so I don’t want to abandon your program. Thanks for your help! Shannon 

Lorraine:  Flake Away! After only two weeks, flakiness can be part of the normal adjustment period. Think of your scalp as a wound that is healing from prior use of detergents.  The flakiness is your scalp shedding the “scab.”  The friction from the motion of your hands breaks up the dry skin and dirt particles, hence the “flakes.”  However, it’s possible that you’re not massaging your scalp enough with the No-Poo.  Give your head a good massage with the No-Poo, and it will help exfoliate your scalp and rid it of the flakes.  Remember, your scalp is your skin and your hair is a fragile and sacred fiber. They have two different needs. 

Q: I’m looking for some major help. My name is Emily and I’m 15 years old. When I was 13, I started straightening my hair everyday because it was the fad. But I stopped when I went to high school, hoping I could live with my hair. Now I have tried just about every product possible to define my curls but I have a huge head of hair. I can never wear it down. Nothing is working. I just want to be able to get out of the shower and wear my hair down instead of having a dead heap of hair. Maybe it is my technique, not the products. If you have any suggestions, I would love to hear them. Emily 

Lorraine:  Curling Out of the Closet…I can almost see and feel your hair by the way you’ve described your precious locks.  My curl sense is telling me that you aren’t using enough One Condition (assuming that you are using the DevaCurl line). A generous helping is what’s needed in this case.  The equation is simple:  Dry equals thirsty.  My experience with clients that haven’t reached a hydration level to my liking after a period of time is almost always the same.  We dissect her hair routine and, lo and behold, she’s being stingy with the Conditioner.  Never EVER be stingy with the moisture!  Get into the shower and wet your hair thoroughly.  Apply, in your case, at least two palmfuls of One Condition and evenly distribute.  Leave it in while you go through your shower routine, letting the conditioner sink in.  At the end of your shower, massage the scalp with your fingers and gently comb your hands through your hair to individualize your curls and gently releasing any tangles, especially at the nape.  Rinse lightly — or you may even want to leave all of it in.  Get out of the shower, bend over forward and scrunch your hair upward with paper towel or an old t-shirt to squeeze out extra conditioner (it’s almost like rinsing as you take out a lot of conditioner, except that the hair will grab and hold what it wants to keep – your hair’s natural survival instinct!).  Flip your hair back gently, and shake your head a little bit to let your curls find their natural formation.  Then clip the roots and do not disturb.  The moral of the curl story here is “Love me, One Condition me, and leave me the hell alone!” 

Q: My name is Elizaveta Diaz and my problem is that I’m completely frustrated with my hair. I have what they call kinky hair. My father was a Cuban Mulatto and my mom is a Caucasian Russian so I guess my hair is in the middle — very curly but very thin. I really have no idea what to do with it. I’ve tried relaxing it with chemicals but it is so thin that it breaks. So for the last eight years, I’ve worn it in a ponytail. My other problem is that I live in Austria and a lot of people here don’t know how to treat my hair. Thank you and I hope you can help me somehow. 

Lorraine: Tend and See…Curly hair is very fine to begin with.  Each beautiful strand is three times more fragile than a strand of cotton, and you know how easily that breaks.  Think of your hair as a priceless fabric and touch it with great respect. Don’t rein it back like a harnessed pet by pulling it into an elastic band!  It’s no wonder your precious “bab” hasn’t been able to grow.  Also, your hairline will begin to recede (traction alopecia) when hair is constantly yanked back into a ponytail.  You, my dear, are the caretaker.  I believe that if there are hair follicles then there’s hope, whether curly, kinky, straight, man, woman, dog, rat, underarm… whatever!  In order for it to have a longer life span, it must not have weed killers washing the naturalness away.  You simply must stop using detergents (99% of shampoos on the market have them). Also, my suspicion tells me that those straighteners (lyes – or is it ‘lies’?) still reside in your hair. Be patient, my curl love, and release the rubber band – set it free!!  Use the same method as Shannon (#5) and be generous with the One Condition.  Olive oil treatments may help, too.  For now, before you go to bed, lay a towel over your pillow and leave the One Condition in your hair overnight.  Remember:  Be good to your hair, accept it for what it is, keep it hyper-hydrated and LOVE it. You will see.

 Q: I recently read your book and loved it. I am a wavy girl and I’m trying to grow my hair out to a chin-length bob. I have given up shampoo (going on three weeks), but I can’t get my waves to look good. My hair looks messy with not-defined curls. I have to diffuse it dry because it saves time and it also gives my hair volume and curl definition. My dream is to come to New York for an appointment, but until then, can you give me some advice. — Marcene Tesmer 

Lorraine:  Where there’s a Wave, There’s a Curl. When anyone asks me a question, I try to listen very carefully.  You say you can’t get your waves to look good.  They’re messy, without defined curls.  You say that the diffuser gives your volume and curl definition.  It sounds to me like you’re all over the place with your approach.  Your hair is going through some weird periods as it’s growing, and the unfurling of movement has not yet begun.  As you touch it with your hands when diffusing, you’re messing it up and breaking the gel cast that helps to crystallize the curl formation.  Try this method:  Put your diffuser in a towel rack (so it’s hands free) and rotate your head around the diffused air.  This way you can achieve height at the root and each curl can dry separated and undisturbed.  I hope to see you in New York — it doesn’t have to be a dream!

 Q: I was wondering how you actually style your own hair. Do you blow it dry with a diffuser or do you air dry it? Does the heat from the hairdryer seal in the moisture, or does it cause more dryness? 

Lorraine:  Love it and Leave it Alone!I actually do not do very much to my hair these days — the less I do, the better it is.  On special occasions, I’ve tried a little harder, but it’s never quite the way it is when I don’t fuss.  I do, however, always clip my roots — even on days I don’t completely wet my hair.  I put a little bit of Angéll on the clip and position it at the root, then spray with Set It Free or Mist-er Right.  My secret to drying my hair at times is my car — the heater gives a perfect dry heat with no blow.

Q: Do you have any new natural mixtures for dry ends? Also, how do you feel about oils as a hair treatment? Do you think it helps or exacerbates dryness? Some people I talk to think mayonnaise is a wonder treatment. Lorraine:  C’oil!I’m obsessed with oils, especially olive oils.  If they can go into my body, then they can go onto my hair.  Things thrive in moist environments — it can not exacerbate dryness unless it’s not a pure oil.  In Roman times, that’s all they used!  Putting it on your body before a bath seals moisture into the skin… it does the same for your hair.  With regards to mayonnaise, it’s all the disodium EPTA that worries me.  But you can make your own!  Whip raw eggs with some olive oil, and then add your favorite essence or even some lemon juice, and you have your very own may’oil!  The reason I don’t have a treatment in my product line is that I believe if you’re really looking after your locks DAILY (including color-treated hair) you don’t need treatments to begin with. But when you’re starting out, olive oil is my absolute fave. 

Nature at its best

When I think of curls, I think of Zen Philosophy. Zen mind. Beginners mind. Zen everyday. A new day. That’s when you’re accepting that everyday with your curls is a new day. And instead of being intimidated, mad, or sad with them, your attitude towards them should be: ‘OK then, what’s it going to be today? Yes, maybe they could’ve, should’ve, would’ve been better, but I love them anyway and any way.’

Q: In the “Curly Girl” book, you say NO SILICONES. However, in your products, you use amodimethicone and I was wondering what made you change your mind on that.– Liz

Lorraine Massey: At the time the book was written, my research on silicones was very thorough. As with most things, there are always advancements and new developments. Our incredible chemist introduced Amodimethicone to me like this: Most silicones  disturb or pull the follicle, causing hair to lose its own natural color. Amodimethicone is found to protect the natural color of hair. So, although it’s a silicone, it’s a long-distance cousin to the bad ones.  Having new information like this to share is why there will be a follow-up book to Curly Girl. 

Q: I am curious if you are planning to make a Deep Treatment product, or any other products? We are product junkies here. What about another book?– Jenny 

Lorraine Massey: One Condition is as deep as you can get. If you add heat or steam, it makes a truly deeply One Condition.Future products: include ‘Bee Leave-In,’ a leave in conditooner, and ‘Set It Free,’  a finishing spray. 

Yes, there will be a follow-up book to Curly Girl. 

Q: How often do you think a deep treatment should be done? My hair tends to be a bit dry, especially in the winter, so I have been doing a moisturizing deep treatment once a week and a protein treatment once per month. My hair is very curly (3B, I think) but thin and fine. Should I do an apple-cider vinegar rinse, lemon-aid, or regular condition cleanse before doing a deep treatment? — Iro

Lorraine Massey: I don’t believe in protein. It makes the hair feel dryer.  Are you sure you’re putting in enough conditioner?  If you are using enough, that IS deep conditioning.  

Q: If I decide to color my hair, should I do a treatment before or after coloring? Or should I do a protein treatment before and a moisturizing treatment after? I have never colored my hair because I was always afraid that it would damage it too much. Now that my hair is in much better condition (thanks to the Curly Girl routine!) I am tempted to try it.

Lorraine Massey: You’ve got the idea. Once you treat your hair well, (daily, weekly) the pavement is a moist one and the hair becomes pliable and the least damage is imposed upon the hair. The “treatment” to do before coloring is to be using No-Poo and One Condition.  If you are true to a shampoo free routine and your moisture has been recovered, you do not need protein.  

Q: The no shampoo routine has worked fabulously for the summer months but this winter my hair is flat and dull. Do I need to use more conditioner or less this season. — Elleces

Lorraine Massey: Less. Why? Because there’s less humidity. For a humidity boost, mix AnGel and Mist-er Right. 

Q: I have heard that you give the OK to other shampoo free method compatible brands of products, such as some from Nexxus and Nioxin, I believe. If so, what are some specific conditioners, cleansers and gels (besides the Deva line) that might be worth for us product junkies to check out?  – Cindy 

Lorraine Massey: I’m sorry to disappoint you. I, like you, have been searching all my life for what I have and how I feel about my hair. Right now it’s the first time it finally feels right.  I could safely say I’m committed to being happy and my hair is a hundred times better now than in the pictures in my book! DevaCurl wasn’t out then. I’m sorry I can’t recommend anything unless I believe in it.  

Q: Angell seems to be too light for some of us 3-4 type hair. Any chances of creating a gel with more hold in the future?

Lorraine Massey: Use more. It works on most 3-4 types, but you must be honest with the rest of the CG routine.  

Q: My hair is very curly 3b/c? Does doing the CG routine make it curlier? 

Lorraine Massey: It makes it what it is, not what it’s not. My curls surprise me every single day. My responsibility to them is to keep them hydrated and love ‘em and leave ‘em (alone).  Have a Curly New Year!