Ask Ouidad

Dear Ouidad:

My hair is naturally curly, but lately my 3c curls haven’t been as strong as they used to be. Whenever I wet my hair to get my curls, I get this weird looking hump in the front that has ultimately stopped me from wearing my hair curly. Plus, my hair tends to get all frizzy and starts looking kind of dry. Do you have any tips and/or know why my hair does that?

Dear Trying to Embrace:

3c curls are very delicate and need a lot of loving care to look their best! It sounds to me like your hair is in need of some serious moisture to fight frizz and bring your curls back to life. Start using a nourishing deep treatment every other week to replace lost hair proteins and restructure your curls. With regular use, your curls will become stronger, healthier, and more resilient to damage and frizz.

Dear Ouidad:

I am 45-years-old and was blessed with naturally curly hair. All my life I have struggled with this thick, Italian, very curly hair and dreamed of having hair like Cher, or straight hair.

Finally, a year ago my stylist gave me a Simply Smooth Keratin Treatment which I loved and my life changed for the better. It lasted 9 months and I had another treatment ($200 a treatment) which was not as successful as my first. I had a mini treatment in between as instructed, but I am afraid my old hair has won the battle and I am, once again, battling this curly hair drama.

I don’t want to spend money on another treatment, but my stylist told me she did the same thing as the first time and I need to use the Simply Smooth products.

My question to you is what can or should I do? Is there something I can purchase myself and treat my hair like the Simply Smooth? I am desperate for your sound advice.

Dear Desperate in NY:

I always advise my clients to avoid straightening treatments. Naturally curly hair is gorgeous and straightening seriously damages the hair. So my advice to you is to embrace your curls! Start doing a weekly deep treatment to repair the damage and replace lost proteins. Once your hair starts to become healthier you can cut back to every other week. Also, as you transition, try visiting a stylist who has experience and training in cutting curly hair.

Dear Ouidad:

I have been getting Ouidad haircuts since I was 13-years-old. The cut made me love my hair again!

I am a bridesmaid in a wedding and will be getting my hair done in an updo at a Ouidad certified salon. Do you have any recommendations on a style that is easy and will look elegant for a wedding?

Dear Curly Cut Veteran:

I’m so happy to hear you’re loving your Ouidad cut! Braided styles are an easy and elegant option for weddings and work well on curly hair. Look online for pictures that inspire you and bring them with you to the salon. Your Ouidad stylist will be able to create an updo that works with your natural curls and also looks great!

Dear Ouidad:

I have very similar hair to you, and I love your hairstyle. I will never, however, get to New York or L.A. to visit your salon. How should I tell my stylist to cut my hair? Do you have short layers? Do you cut your hair with a razor blade? Do you thin it out underneath the hair? Any information would be greatly appreciated!

Dear Copycat:

I use my own Carve and Slice technique on my hair for a cut that works with my curly hair instead of against it. Use my salon locator to find a salon near you that has Ouidad Certified Stylists to asses and cut your curls properly. And never layer or thin your curls! Layering will cause your shorter layers to shrink up, while thinning creates an unwanted combination of tight curls and longer limp ones.

Dear Ouidad:

I have fine 3a/b hair. It’s just getting long, not quite half way down my back. My hair tends to have lots of volume, however it gets weighed down with too much product and gets over conditioned. What kind of styling products do you recommend for fine curly hair? I am looking for definition without sacrificing volume.

Dear Weighed Down:

Good products should treat and control your hair without weighing it down. Since you say your hair has natural volume, you should try a lightweight styling gel to get the hold and definition you want. Make sure not to use too much product — a nickel size dollop for each 4 to 6 inch section of hair is enough.

Dear Ouidad:

My daughter is 7-years-old and biracial. When she was younger, she had silky curls, but I may have sabotaged her hair while desperately trying to find the right products for her hair. Now she has semi kinky, frizzy, dry curls that tangle badly. She loves to wear her hair down, but its torture for both of us because after an hour or so, it’s like a fuzz ball. How can we achieve a softer, less tangled look that hangs down over her shoulders when she wears her hair loose? Please help my little princess get her “look.”

Dear Saboteur:

I would suggest a gentle shampoo and conditioner for your daughter to help repair and nourish her curls. Make sure to shampoo her hair only once a week to cut back on dryness. While conditioning, try not to rinse out all of the conditioner; moisture is the key to beautiful curls! Detangle her curls with a wide tooth comb like my Double Detangler while there is still conditioner. Finish with a moisturizing gel for shiny, frizz-free hair throughout the day.  You may also want to try my Rake and Shake styling technique.

Dear Ouidad:

I recently did a store-bought keratin treatment that was only supposed to last for a month, however after three months my curls are still flat. How can I return my hair back to its natural state?

Dear Store Bought Flat:

Chemical treatments, like keratin and relaxers can damage and strip away the protective layer of the hair cuticle. It will take time and proper care before your curls are finally restored.

To help, try using my Deep Treatment every other week to replenish and revive your curls. A moisturizing shampoo and conditioner will also help restore your curls to their natural state. Please be patient. Only time will bring your hair back, but at least the Deep Treatment will revive what not has been completely damaged. I’m not a fan of any keratin treatment.

Dear Ouidad:

I have just discovered your website while researching curly hair. I have decided to grow out my very short haircut to about chin length. My hair is very course, thick and very curly. It resembles the short cut of Halle Berry’s. I am probably about 50 percent gray. My original color was very dark brown. I color and occasionally highlight it. My short hair routine consisted of blow-drying it as straight as possible, using a very large round bristle brush. I would then flat iron the bangs and sides.

I am taking baby steps as I begin this process. I am switching to a no sulfate cleanser and conditioner. I have decided to stop using the flat iron. I feel I must continue to blow dry it until I get some sort of length. I just don’t like the short curly look on me. I am turning 50 in October so I’m sort of cautious about clips and headbands, etc. Do you have any styling suggestions for the “growing out” stage?

Dear First Time Curly:

First, congratulations on putting down the flat iron! The first thing I would suggest to you is a styling gel that provides protection against your blow dryer. Using a blow dryer regularly will greatly damage the curls you are trying to grow out! You may also want to try a regular deep treatment to keep hair healthy. As for styling suggestions, a head scarf is an easy and stylish alternative to headbands that looks good at any age!

Dear Ouidad:

I have really thick, wavy 2C hair and my question is about my scalp, actually. I have a pretty dry scalp and my cosmetologist sister has told me it’s because of all the parabens and sulfates in the products I use. Can you recommend something to help with the itch? I don’t have flakes, though, just itch. I don’t know if switching ALL of my products to P/S-Free is the answer or if just switching my actual styling product would suffice. Thanks for any help you can provide!

Dear Itchy:

The problem may be that you are washing your hair too often. I would consult a dermatologist for more assistance, but over washing strips natural oils. Curls should only be washed once every few days in order to prevent dryness of the scalp and hair. When this is done, sulfates should not be an issue. However, if you would still like to go sulfate free, you should probably switch to a sulfate free shampoo, since shampoo is where sulfates are most often found.

Dear Ouidad:

Hi! My name is Allison. I am 15 years old and I have naturally curly hair (ringlets). I really love it and embrace it a lot, but it tends to be flat on the top of my head with no volume. I’d love for it to have volume all over, but I don’t know what cut would be good for me. Help!

Dear Volume-less:

Hi Allison! How your hair looks when it’s dry depends greatly on what you do with it when it’s wet. A tool like my Curl Clips will help to position your curls, create height, or style hair away from the face. For a how-to tutorial, visit my Expert Tips section on Ouidad.com, or watch the video below!