Essential Expertise on Texture

Dear Rebecca: I have kinky hair when it is in its natural state. I had a permanent curl/wave chemical product applied to my hair and am looking to find the best hair care system to keep it moisturized without it feeling greasy and sticky, all the while maintaining well-defined, silky wavy/curly hair. Do you have any suggestions?

Dear Beautifully Kinky: Have you tried the Design Essentials Natural? I’m loving the entire system! For natural hair, you are absolutely correct. The most important thing is to keep your hair fully moisturized. All of this starts with your maintenance. Try shampooing your hair only once every other week.

When you do shampoo your hair, be sure to use a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner. When preparing to condition, make sure you towel-blot your hair first to remove excess water. This will allow the conditioner to fully penetrate. Once applied, take a wide-toothed comb, and beginning at the nape of your neck, gently comb the conditioner through the hair. Now the next step is very important. Let the conditioner absorb into your curly hair for a minimum of 10 minutes. Then rinse with cool-to-warm water. Now you’re ready to begin styling. Start with a moisturizing leave-in conditioner and follow with your styling product. To maintain your curl definition and moisture, try Design Essentials Natural Daily Moisturizing Lotion. It is absolutely fantastic! To refresh your style during the week between shampooing, just lightly mist your hair with water or a leave-in conditioner to re-shape your curls. You’ll love it.

Dear Rebecca: I have tight curly/kinky hair in the back but loose wavy/curly hair in the front. Do you have any suggestions on how to try to make my hair look like one texture instead of two? When I do the wash ‘n’ go I have to put more product in the front to try to obtain a curly look.

Dear Two Textures: A great solution is to fake it! Try using flexi rods (similar to straws, and can be found at Sally’s). Find a rod that is a similar size to your back curls. Then set the hair using your favorite styling/setting product. Just make sure it is a moisture-filled product. If that doesn’t work, try flat twists using a styling crème gel like Design Essentials Natural Defining Crème Gel. Be sure to sit under a hooded dryer to completely dry. This will help to eliminate frizz and to set your curl pattern. Pull out the twists and separate and define each section using a serum-type product. Finish with a light sheen spray for additional shine. Either one of these should help your hair have one personality… at least for a week or two.

Dear Rebecca: I want to make my hair is as curly curly as Jada Pinkett Smith‘s hair. I used to have puffy, afro-like hair, but I got it permed and when I blow dry it, I want to try to make it curly. How do I do that and what products do I use to make that type of hair?

Dear Curls Wanted: Ok, I’m not sure what you mean by a perm. Did you receive a relaxer, or an actual permanent wave that makes hair curly? I’m assuming that you received a relaxer as many people still refer to a relaxer as a perm. So once you have removed the curl from your hair with a relaxer, it is permanently altered and straightened. The best way to achieve Jada’s natural curls would be with a flexi rod set. A flexi rod comes in many different sizes but I would recommend using the yellow flexi rod which is the same size as a drinking straw. Here’s my step-by-step recommendation:

1. Shampoo and condition the hair.
2. Apply a leave-in conditioner.
3. While the hair is damp, apply a moisturizing cream gel like Design Essentials Natural Defining Creme Gel. This product has fantastic hold, and provides beautiful long-lasting sheen!
4. Part the hair into four quadrants and take a 1-inch x 1-inch section. Comb the product through, ensuring saturation. Then wrap the hair around the flexi rod. Continue this throughout the hair until the entire head is covered with flexi rods.
5. Finish by sitting under a hooded dryer until the hair is completely dry.
6. Remove all the flexi rods, making sure that you remove them in the direction that keeps the curl in a ringlet formation.
7. To really make your curls pop, finish your style by applying Design Essentials Daily Moisturizing Lotion, to separate and define each curl.

You will love your finished look. Good luck with your curly locks!!

Dear Rebecca: My hair naturally is straight on top and wavy to kinky underneath. I hate blowing it out in the summer so I got a perm, which I love. I haven’t had a perm since the ’80s so I don’t really know how to take care of it and make the curls look their best! I’ve been using DevaCurl No-Poo, One Condition and Set up and Above. I like the naturalness of these products but frankly, I think they smell like wet dog and my curls are still a little frizzy. I use a “Turbie Towel” to wrap my wet head after showering…. perhaps I should switch to something else? I try very hard not to touch it when it’s wet as I’ve heard that can cause frizz… I just don’t know what to do! Please help! (P.S: I also color my hair.)

Dear Summer Curl: Okay, the thing about curls is above all else they need moisture. Curls are most defined with minimal frizz when they are moisturized. As far as the maintenance, I recommend shampooing your hair at most 3 times per week. When doing so, shampoo your hair with a moisture-intensive shampoo (probably sulfate-free as it a gentle cleanser), and follow with a moisturizing conditioner.

Towel-blot your hair before applying the conditioner. Then apply the conditioner beginning at the ends and working it through the roots. Comb through using a wide-toothed comb, removing all tangles from the hair. Allow the conditioner to remain on the hair 5-10 minutes and rinse using lukewarm water. When finished, gently towel-blot the hair to remove all excess water. Begin your styling regimen by applying a leave-in conditioner.

Curly girls, I prefer a crème leave-in conditioner like Design Essentials Hydrate Leave-In Conditioner. Hydrate will intensely moisturize your curls and help to minimize frizzy hair, as well as encourage separation. Apply a nickel- to quarter-size amount into the palms of hands, emulsify and apply. Now, this is when styling curly hair gets fun. You have the option for numerous styles like soft and defined ringlets, or wavy and loose curls. I recommend using a curling crème gel to achieve your desired look. Try Design Essentials Natural Defining Crème Gel. This product should be applied to damp hair using ample amounts of product to ensure curl definition. For more curl definition, try twisting your curls creating long individual twists. Let hair air dry, or use a diffuser to gently dry the hair. Your curls will be defined with minimal to no frizz.

Dear Rebecca: I have 3b-3c natural, curly hair and I live in the island of Jamaica. Last Wednesday I washed my hair with a moisturizing shampoo, deep conditioned and then applied a creamy moisturizing leave-in with a firm holding gel to 11 sections of my hair which were put in 11 box braids/plaits. I then set the ends on perm rods and yesterday decided to take my hair down in the morning for an evening event. Before undoing each braid, I rubbed a little emollient (a waxy product) on the entire braid. I fluffed the hair and achieved a lovely braid-out of defined yet fluffy waves with curls at the ends . . . I was pleased. Throughout the day my style kept up and I ensured that I kept cool by sitting in front of the electric fan for most of the day. Then in the afternoon the rain came down heavily and although I was inside my hair turned into a MESS!!! I looked like what they call a “wet rat”. My hair just flopped and hung in a lifeless, droopy way with no volume. My mood also changed. I really was disappointed. I’ve heard random things about humidity and curly hair . . . I’ve often heard that humidity is a curly girl’s friend. Why did it act as my enemy? help? What products are good for my hair type—a loose curl in a very hot and humid climate. How often should I wash my hair? Any advice?

HCO Leave In Conditioner

Dear Disappointed in Jamaica: Yes! Humidity can be a curly girl’s friend … with the right style and being dependent on your curl pattern, of course. With a tighter curl pattern, humidity can almost be your enemy. But don’t despair. I have a solution, and I think you will be pleased with the results. Start with a deep cleansing shampoo to remove product build-up and salt deposits from the hair. Then follow with a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner to replenish moisture. Be sure you’ve rinsed the conditioner thoroughly from the hair, then towel blot. Now these are my suggestions for styling. This time, try mixing Design Essentials HCO with Design Essentials Masterpiece Concentrated Setting Lotion (try a 1 oz HCO to 1 oz Masterpiece mixture). Combine both products in a spray bottle and continue to style the hair as you had before, spraying each section as you braid. Finish each braid with a perm rod. Here is the most important step in this styling process; sit under a dryer until the hair is dry! This helps to truly set the style and ensures a lasting style. Once the hair is completely dry, slowly take out the braids. Finally, spray oil sheen on your hair for a final touch of shine. This will add a little bit of weight to help minimize the frizz.

Dear Rebecca: My hair is naturally curly and has always been great but lately it has been flat on top. I tried switching the mousse I use but that hasn’t worked. My hair is right at the neck so I know it isn’t the weight. It is so annoying because the first 1/4 inch out of the root is just straight and then goes crazy with curl. What can I do to fluff up the top?

Dear Curls on bottom flat on top: A simple haircut can sometimes help to add volume back to curls. Adding layers to curly locks can also help curls spring back. Another suggestion is to use the right shampoo. Moisturizing shampoos can sometimes weigh hair down which limits volume. So, you may need to find a gentle cleansing shampoo and follow with a lightweight conditioner. If you are still not seeing volume after you cut or layer your hair and change shampoos, try using a volumizing product like a mousse or volume tonic that encourages volume. Apply these products on damp hair following your leave in conditioner (always a must) then dry your curls with a diffuser, paying attention to each area lacking volume.

Dear Rebecca: I used to have a very natural curly hair all my life, but after giving birth to my second baby my curls vanished, my hair now is very very straight….what can i do now?? Help please!

Dear Curl Mommy: Congratulations on the new little one!! Believe it or not, when you have a baby your body compensates for all the changes in strange ways. These changes can cause your hair to do crazy things. My suggestion would be to love the hair you are in. Your hair may or may not revert back to its original state but if it doesn’t at least enjoy your newly found straight hair. Think of it as a new you !! Good luck!

Dear Rebecca: I have Type 3c curly hair. It currently is long past my shoulder, but the curls “nest” at my neckline when my hair dries. I am going to get my hair cut tomorrow. Is there any advise for how I should cut it, to avoid the nesting curls at my neck. Plus, I feel like my hair at times looks like a Christmas tree. I just want some help on what to do.

Dear Christmas Tree: You may want to try a new haircut, like rounded layers. Rounded layers work beautifully on naturally curly hair because it allows the curls to be full and bouncy without looking like a “Christmas Tree”. This will work with your length to balance the curls (even the tight ones at your neck) to appear as if you meant for them to rest at your neck. I would recommend styling with an emollient with hold. I really like TIGI Manipulator. It will define and hold, allowing for manipulation all day long.

Dear Rebecca: Since I was pregnant and had my son almost two years ago, my hair has gotten straighter and frizzier. I used to have combo 3a/3b hair. Nowadays, it is more of a 2b. I’ve been blowing it out myself lately but it just doesn’t feel like me. Do you have any suggestions for curl activator products? I still use DevaCare Low-Poo and One Condition and the Aveda mousse which used to give me great hair. Now, frizzy waves. I also live in Los Angeles which doesn’t help, either. Any thoughts would be so appreciated!!!

A: It’s funny the way your hair changes after pregnancy. My curl pattern actually got tighter when I was pregnant with my first baby. It sounds like you may have some slight damage from thermal styling. This is very common and can happen to any woman with curly hair who wears her hair straight. I recommend giving your hair a break from the blow-dryer or styling irons. Then try a good clarifying treatment to help remove any impurities from the hair. Of course my favorite is Design Essentials Organic Cleanse Deep Cleansing Shampoo. Use this shampoo as needed to cleanse your hair of impurities such as dirt, product build-up, salt, etc. This shampoo will not strip away hair’s natural oils. Follow with your current shampoo, then towel-blot the hair and apply your conditioner. By towel blotting, you are removing excess water that can prevent your conditioner from penetrating deep within your hair shaft. Be sure to use a good moisturizing conditioner and leave it on the hair 5-20 minutes. Rinse with lukewarm water, too! For styling, begin first by applying a leave-in conditioner to your hair. Then follow with a styling gel. I prefer styling gels that have a medium to firm hold and large amounts of shine. Styling gel is ideal for curls you are trying to reactivate. The hold will help keep the hair from frizzing, and it will also keep the curl in place. To apply, begin first with the ends and work towards the roots. Then manipulate the hair by twisting each curl (where it lives), and allow it to air dry. I think you will be really happy with these results.

Dear Rebecca: I am getting very annoyed with my curly hair because it’s not like having straight hair and I can’t comb it through easily like my friends can. With my hair, if I even if I was to touch it with a brush/comb/fingers etc. it will become an afro bigger then a 1,000-pound elephant!! I condition 5 times a week and shampoo twice a week. Please help. Also, I would like to mention that I am a restless sleeper so when I wake up I literally have to dunk my hair in the bathtub and comb it. Give me products, tips, advice ANYTHING!!! I just need to have good hair ASAP!

Wave by Design 2N1 Lotion

A: Sandy, it’s ok to be a restless sleeper as long as you take care of your curly locks before you go to bed. You only need to shampoo your hair every other week. Here’s what you should do to maintain your curls. First try this combination: a clarifying shampoo and a daily moisturizing conditioner, followed by an intensive moisturizing conditioner. The goal of a clarifying shampoo is to help prepare the hair to better receive moisture. Once that has been completed, continue to prepare the hair by shampooing with a moisturizing shampoo. This helps to balance the hair and really makes the hair much more manageable. So your hair isn’t going to be like your friends’…it’s better because it’s your hair! It just takes longer to comb through. After applying your conditioners, comb through your hair while the conditioner is still on using a wide-toothed comb. Begin at the nape of your neck and gently comb the conditioner through your hair. Take small sections until you have completed the entire head.

For styling, I recommend a product mixture that will keep the hair moist and defined. Start with a leave-in conditioning cream and apply it liberally to the hair. Then for styling, apply a moisturizing and defining cream. My favorite is Wave by Design 2N1 Lotion. This product is ideal for curl type 4 hair. Just twist and manipulate your hair how you prefer. Okay now let’s talk about sleeping. Do yourself a favor and go purchase a satin bonnet… please!! Using the satin bonnet will actually keep the hair from getting tangled, or completely ruining your style. Now if you are not going to get a satin bonnet, try setting your hair with two-strand twists before your go to bed. Two-strand twists are simple to do and depending on the size it can take you only minutes to achieve. Start by taking 1/2-inch square sections of hair, divide into two and twist the hair separately. Then finish by twisting the hair together. For a really defined look, apply 2 N 1 on the hair as you are twisting it.

In the morning gently take the twists out, and define the hair with 2N1 and you will be ready to go!!

Dear Rebecca: I have a tween client whose hair is like a 1″ barrel curl, but the back has a section of super-chaotic kinkyness—the kinks are approximately pencil tight, some are tighter. She likes her hair long— her beautiful dark waves cascading down—but puberty has come along and made this section poof out like it’s been backcombed. There are only a few hairs in this section with the original texture. but it’s about 6-10 months of new growth that is all kinky tight through the back above the nape. I now have her using Paul Mitchell Lab Glue…I take it in sections and twist it and it works very well, but I am brainstorming what I can do to make it easier for the client.. either I use a fat rod and perm that section to direct those curls, or I use a chemical relaxer on that section, but to smooth it, not to straighten completely. What do you advise?

Lo-Lye Relaxer with Shea Butter

A: Ok, I’m going to suggest a few options here as ‘tweens change their minds like they change shoes. Really, it sounds like if you just want to reduce the amount of curl that she has. It is much easier to work with a sodium hydroxide, and I really believe that is a great option. However, you absolutely must keep in mind that coloring her hair must be done at minimum two weeks after this service. As far as preparation for the relaxer (straightening system,) she cannot shampoo, comb, brush, or manipulate her scalp in any way prior to receiving this service. This will immediately give you the results you are looking for. Try Design Essentials Lo-Lye Relaxer with Shea Butter. This shea butter infused formula slowly loosens the curl pattern (texturizing) so you are able to control the results. In fact, recommend utilizing Design Essentials entire relaxer system, as it is truly a system.

Once completed, you will be able to style her hair as usual, and have beautiful, silky hair.

Dear Rebecca: I have naturally curly hair. I wear it very short. In the morning, the left side does not lay flat and I have to wet it down. The woman who cuts my hair said to leave it longer on that side. I don’t think that would look right, and it really wouldn’t solve the problem. I think I should just wet it down. What do you think?

A: Wear what makes you feel your most confident! If that means you have to wet down one side of your hair in the morning, then just do it. Wet it down!

Dear Rebecca: I have to wear my hair up every day for school as part of the regulations; what are some good ways to wear it? Also, if I wash it in the mornings, it is always wet for school—which I hate, but if I wash it the previous night then the curls get ruined overnight. What is your advice?

A: If you don’t want to shampoo your hair in morning, try misting your hair with a leave-in conditioner like Design Essentials HCO. HCO is a light-weight moisturizing leave-in conditioner that will rejuvenate your curls, and help to minimize frizz. Lightly comb HCO through the hair with a wide-toothed comb and style as normal.

After rejuvenating your curls, try styling your hair into a loose ponytail with the hair lightly pulled back. Be sure to use a non-pulling hair band. The look you want to achieve is fullness with curl definition both on the top sections, and through the ponytail. The style looks unintentional and is what I refer to as simple chic. Also, try a loose French roll for another flattering look. The secret is to make the French roll loose so your curls are not pulled tightly. This style will give you a sophisticated, glamorous look.

Dear Rebecca: After years and years of straightening my hair with dryers and straighteners, I have at last given in and now gone for the naturally curly look. My problem now is the roots curl, but the ends are damaged and frizzy .

A: This can often be the case when you are making the transition, but there is always hope!!! Start by getting a good trim. Try something with layers which will give your hair a fresh look and help your curls reactivate. Then begin weekly moisturizing treatments. Here’s a suggested hair care regimen:

1. First, cleanse your hair with a deep-cleansing shampoo. This will help remove any minerals or impurities on your hair.
2. Follow with a moisturizing shampoo to restore moisture and balance to the hair.
3. Then, towel-dry your hair to remove excess water.
4. Generously apply your treatment or conditioner to the hair. Then wrap a warm, moist towel around your hair and leave on for 15 minutes. Rinse with lukewarm water and towel-dry your hair.
5. Finish by applying styling products like creams, gels or leave-in conditioners that moisturize and define. Separate and define curls using your fingers. Allow your hair to dry naturally. If your ends are not curling, try using a drinking straw to set your curls by wrapping 1/4-square sections around the straw while your hair is still damp. Leave straws in hair until dry. Then gently separate your curls. The finished look is healthy, shiny, and gorgeous curls!

I do not recommend drying the hair on a daily basis for naturally curly hair. Instead, use a blow dryer only once or twice a week. Because of the shape of the hair strand, naturally curly hair is predisposed to having moisture loss. That is why it is essential to allow the hair’s natural oils to remain on the hair for longer periods of time. This will help ensure a smooth and defined curl.

Dear Rebecca: What can I do to encourage my thin sides to grow back? My sides have always been thinner than the rest of my hair. I think this is partly due to general manipulation (ponytails over the course of my life, wearing braids, etc.) but the last perm I had (Jan ’07) I did myself! I was wearing weaves and would perm the top/sides of my hair every now and then myself. I had done it a few times and never had an issue.

A: Okay first things first, and know I say this out of love. Please put the relaxer down! Here’s why. When you apply a relaxer yourself, you are truly unable to see the processing of each section, and you begin to rely on the “burning sensation” to let you know when your relaxer has straightened your new growth. Unfortunately, this leads to over-processed hair, which basically means your hair has been straightened too much! This can cause so many issues, including permanent follicle damage and hair breakage. Keep in mind hair straightens in stages when relaxing. So if you relax your hair to the completely straight stage, it is inevitable your next stage will be breakage. It is likely that this happened to your sides.

Please don’t misunderstand me. I think relaxers are great when done correctly. But that’s why it’s always important to have a relaxer applied by a licensed, professional only. Getting back to your question, the best way to overcome thinning edges, hair, etc. is to start by drinking more water and eating a healthy diet. Believe it or not, the absolute best way to help hair grow is by living well. Be sure to exercise since it increases circulation to hair follicles. Then, I recommend giving your hair a break from relaxers, braids, or weaves for at least a minimum of 2 months. This will allow the hair to fill into the thinning areas. Lastly, visit a licensed hair stylist for strengthening treatments as well.

Q: I am style challenged. I have been rocking this fro and twist thing for a good minute and I need to switch it up. I was looking at some sites and I saw a bunch of cute styles ( i.e the veil, flat twists with pony puffs. The only thing is they are shown on little kids and by little kids I mean kids that probably cant even tie their own shoe. I am almost 23, but I have been mistaken for a middle schooler more times than i care to have been, so in all seriousness could I rock those styles? And would they be considered protective styles?

Rebecca: Absolutely! These are all great styles for natural hair. They are also healthy alternatives to daily styling. I’d first suggest browsing through a few natural hair magazines and websites, or click here for some styles from NaturallyCurly. If you are looking for a more mature look, try adding a funky spin on the style. For example, try braiding your sides up to create a Mohawk effect. Or, accessorize with hair scarves, flowers, and jewels. Finally, remember to have a healthy hair care regimen. Shampoo weekly with a moisturizing shampoo like Design Essentials Moisture Retention Conditioning Shampoo. Then condition with Express Instant Moisturizing Conditioner. Apply HCO Leave-In Conditioner for additional protection.

Q: Are hooded dryers damaging to hair? I am trying to completely avoid damaging my hair and so I have not been using heat at all. I mostly wear my hair in a twist out. I usually twist my hair in the morning and let it dry all day and night. I then untwist the next day. But with it being so cold, I cannot leave my house with my hair wet so this morning I sat under a hooded dryer for about an hour. My twist out came out beautifully—actually better than when I let it air dry. It feels soft and looks shiny. I’m thinking that this might be my weekly thing at least through the winter. I’m just worried that the heat will damage my hair in some kind of way. What do you think?

Rebecca: As you probably already know, heat should always be applied in moderation…even heat from hooded dryers. I understand your concern about the health of your hair. Using a hooded dryer weekly or bi-weekly will not damage your hair. However, be sure your hair and scalp is hydrated. I’d suggest applying Therapeutics Rx Leave-In Hydrating Conditioner prior to wet-twisting your hair. This leave-in conditioner is excellent for restoring moisture and preventing damage. It also infuses hair with nourishing almond, jojoba, and tea tree oils. Hair is left soft and easy to comb. Keep your scalp healthy with Design Essentials Herbal Complex 4 Hair & Scalp Treatment. It’s a lightweight hair and scalp moisturizer that will give your hair the additional nourishment it needs to stay healthy.

Q: Help! My hair has turned into a fuzzball!! Now that it is getting cooler and my hair is growing some, I’ve noticed that my stylers are not penetrating and my hair is tight and dry as carpet. Slowly my hair is getting fuzzier and fuzzier with little definition at all, just poof! What am I doing wrong?

Rebecca: This is a common question when it comes to curls. Our hair changes as the season changes. Some of the products that work great for your curls in the summer may not work for your hair in the winter. One of the keys to fuzz-free curls is moisture. And moisture does not start with styling products like curling creams, gels, or mousse. Instead, moisture begins with moisturizing shampoos and conditioners, and is maintained with styling products. So here’s my step-by-step recommendation for a Design Essentials fuzz-free mane:

1. Shampoo with Moisture Retention Conditioning Shampoo.
2. Condition with Stimulations Super Moisturizing Conditioner
3. Apply Therapeutics Rx Leave-In Hydrating Conditioner
4. Depending upon your hair type and texture, use Design Essentials Compositions Foaming Mousse or Wave by Design Define & Shine 2N1 Dry Finishing Lotion to define your curls.
5. Increase the amount of water of you drink and eat well balanced diet of fruit, veggies, and lean protein. (The health of your hair is often reflective of your body’s health.)

Q: I did a shikakai and amla powder treatment about 5-6 months ago and it totally messed up my hair. Even though I cut most of my hair off awhile ago, it still hasn’t been the same ever since.

I’m having a LOT of breakage right now. If I even tug slightly on my hair or lightly run my fingers through it, I will get a lot of broken hairs, no matter what. I’ve tried deep conditioning with moisture, but that didn’t help, so I figured my hair needed protein. (It was kinda mushy.) Today, I mixed an egg and coconut oil together and let sit on my hair for a few hours, hoping that it would get my hair hard and strong. The opposite happened. Instead of strong hair, I got a mess that was even “stretchier” than what I had before. I’m stumped.

Rebecca: There could be several reasons why you experienced breakage. Since I am unable to see or feel your hair, I’d recommend you visit a licensed cosmetologist for a thorough hair consultation…immediately. Natural, organic recipes are great. But, they must be created with a balanced blend of moisture and protein. You also must be conscious of how different products and ingredients interact with one another. Other variables to consider include diet, weather, medication, and your hair care regimen. I also think your hair and scalp need a break. Refrain from using any chemicals like color or any at-home treatments. Lastly, select hairstyles that require very little manipulation, as well.

Dear Rebecca: I had my last relaxer in May ’08, and big chopped on August 1, 2009. In between that period, I only professionally had my hair blown out and flat ironed 3 times. The reason I said that, is to rule out heat damage. Now, I have about a 4 inch x 4 inch patch of hair smack dab in the front of my head (bang area) that will not bend. The rest of my hair will curl. I’m open to all suggestions to help me fix this.

A: Unfortunately, this can be due to your natural growth and curl patterns. For example, some people’s hair grows faster on the right side than the left. Others, like you, experience varying curl patterns (kinky, curly, wavy, and straight) from area of the head to another. And you may not know this. But heat damage can still occur with limited usage. Too high heat can permanently straighten hair.

To achieve a more consistent curl or wave pattern, try manipulating wet hair with a foaming mousse like Design Essentials Compositions. Work the mousse into your hair, and set the curl with a diffuser on a low heat setting. This will help enhance and force the wave or curl pattern in your hair to create a more even, defined texture.

Dear Rebecca: I feel like I have too much hair. My hair is very dense and dry, and “underneath” my hair gets really tight, dry, and knotted. Another thing is, even though I have kind of fine hair I feel like I have too many individual hairs on my head. But I feel like even when my hair is soaking wet, it’s not REALLY wet and just the top got wet. I’ve tried texturizing my hair and that just made my hair curlier than I wanted and when it grew out it looked really fuzzy and still dense, dry, and too many hairs. I haven’t texturized my hair in about a year. Thoughts?

A: Think moisture, moisture, and more moisture. Typically, dry or damaged hair lacks moisture, and the lack of moisture can cause the hair cuticle to become rough. Rough hair tangles easily and creates knots, which is what you have experienced.

Start with intensive moisture maintenance and treatments. I always recommend starting with a good cleansing shampoo like Design Essentials Organic Cleanse Deep Cleansing Shampoo. Organic Cleanse gently removes buildup from the hair, without stripping or drying the hair. Then follow with a moisture intensive shampoo like Design Essentials Moisture Retention which helps to re-nourish the hair with conditioning agents. Finally, towel dry the hair (so it’s better prepared to receive moisture), then apply a deep moisturizing conditioner like Design Essentials Stimulations Super Moisturizing Conditioner. Proceed to comb through the hair starting at the ends and working to the roots. Follow by placing a plastic cap on the head, or wrapping the hair with plastic wrap. Allow the conditioner to penetrate for about 10-15 minutes, rinse with Luke Warm – COOL water which will help close the cuticle and lock in the moisture. Initially, I suggest applying this treatment every other week for about 2 months or until your hair feels soft, and more manageable. When you are ready I would recommend a good cut, this will help to remove those dry, frizzy ends, and rejuvenate the curl pattern you have. Don’t think I’m recommending a serious cut. 1 to 2 inches off should give you a good shape.

Begin the styling process by applying a leave in conditioner to your hair while wet. Leave in conditioners help the hair to better absorb styling products, and also work as a thermal protectant against heated styling tools. Try Design Essentials Therapeutics Leave-In Hydrating Conditioner. It’s a great product that helps detangle, and add moisture back to the hair.

Lastly learn to love your strands!!! You can create a variety of looks with “too much hair”. Experiment with several styles until you find one that works for your lifestyle and personality. Be sure to maintain your styles by sleeping in a satin bonnet. Rejuvenate your curl on a needed basis with a product like Design Essentials Silk Essentials. Silk Essentials adds moisture, shine, and eliminates flyaways.

Dear Rebecca: Is mineral oil bad? Why or why not?

A: I’m sure you’ve noticed there is lots of conflicting information about mineral oil. Mineral oil in hair care products work as a moisture sealing agent. According to our chemist, mineral oil is an Eclusion. This means it seals the hair shaft after it has absorbed all the necessary moisture and protein from conditioners or conditioning agents. Not surprisingly, mineral oil can be very beneficial to extremely curly hair because the various coils on excessively curly hair prevent natural oils from traveling down the entire strand.

Typically the negatives of mineral oil come from over usage of a product that contains mineral oil. Just like anything when you overuse a product, you may find that the hair isn’t as manageable. So always keep that in mind, a little product can go a long way.

Q: What do you recommend for someone new to going natural?

A: It is a big decision whenever someone decides to go natural — primarily because it is not only a change in hairstyle, but it is a lifestyle change, too. I suggest starting with your own personal hair goals, asking yourself questions such as “What do I want my hair to look like, feel like, and how much time am I willing to give to my hair maintenance?”

When going natural, keep hair hydrated with moisturizing treatments that nourish both relaxed hair and new growth. Remember, hair is most fragile where natural hair and relaxed hair meet. So be sure to avoid excessively tight hair styles or styles that require rigorous manipulation. A style like the two-strand twist is a great option because it enhances and defines the natural texture and requires very little maintenance. And if you prefer hair that is smooth or silky, ceramic blow dryers and styling tools can be used to create almost any desired look while straightening new growth, as well. These styles will make transitioning from relaxed to natural hair easier… without compromising health or appearance.

Q: What’s the best deep treatment process?

A: I’ve found that naturally curly hair needs intense moisture, regardless of how tight the curl. Here’s the best deep conditioning process:

1. Cleanse the hair with a moisturizing shampoo that will gently remove all impurities from the hair and scalp while replenishing moisture. When shampooing, keep in mind that you have two textures of hair, so shampoo gently using the fingertips working through the ends of the hair. If you are shampooing too vigorously you may find that you will place unnecessary tension on the hair that has been previously relaxed, which could lead to breakage.
2. After shampooing, towel-blot hair to remove excess water. (Excess water often prevents deep penetration of the conditioner.) For the best deep-conditioning treatment, I recommend Design Essentials Stimulations Super Moisturizing Conditioner. It hydrates deep within the hair shaft to restore lasting moisture and vitality to hair. It also contains peppermint oil, an organic ingredient that refreshes and stimulates the scalp. Hair is left in its healthiest state possible after a stimulations deep treatment.

• Apply a quarter- to half-dollar size amount to the hair (depending on the length and texture).
• Then take a large, wide-tooth comb and, beginning from the nape of the head (or back), comb conditioner through small section by section until you have completed this throughout the entire head.
• Follow by placing a plastic shower cap on the head and sit for 5-10 minutes. To intensify the treatment, wrap a slightly heated, dampened towel over the top of the cap. This creates sort of an at-home steam treatment by trapping the moisture and steam within the cap, forcing the conditioner to penetrate the hair strand even more.
• Allow this treatment to penetrate for 10–20 minutes depending on the amount of time have available. Once completed, rinse the hair with lukewarm water (almost cool). This will aid in closing the hair cuticle and locking in moisture. Rinse until all excess treatment has been removed from the hair.

Q: What can I do for an itchy scalp?

A: An itchy scalp is tricky. It can be caused by a number of reasons. Climate, diet, scalp irritation, or even more severe reasons like seborrhea dermatitis or dandruff. Most commonly, it is because of a dry scalp, or tension placed on the scalp.

I would recommend a moisture-intensive cleansing and conditioning regimen that would include using Design Essentials’ Therapeutics Rx Anti-Itch Shampoo (to alleviate dry, itchy scalp) and Design Essentials Moisture Retention Conditioning (to restore and retain moisture). If you are still finding that you are in need of further moisture, I suggest applying a scalp moisturizer such as Design Essentials Herbal Complex 4 Hair & Scalp Treatment to replenish moisture to the scalp without build up. To reduce itchiness or the appearance of dandruff, try Design Essentials Therapeutics Rx Hair & Scalp Treatment, which contains salicylic acid, designed to treat the symptoms of seborrhea dermatitis and dandruff. Both treatments only require applying a small amount to the scalp area where the itchiness or dryness occurs. Use as needed.

Be sure to consult with physician or dermatologist if you experience more severe symptoms.

Q: How do I know if my shedding is normal or if I’m shedding too much?

A: This is a very common question for women and men. It’s normal to shed between 35-40 hairs per day.

With naturally curly hair of any texture, the hair has a specific growth pattern in coils or curls. In some cases, because the curls are so tight, the hair that has naturally shed will stay within the hair trapped by its texture or curl. Meaning, if you wait a couple of days to shampoo, condition, style, comb, etc. you will find a much larger amount of hair shedding than if you shampooed, conditioned, styled, and combed on a daily basis.

If you find that the hair is shedding in larger amounts specific to an area, or following a specific action like styling, using a thermal styling tool, or unnecessary tension like tight ponytails, then you might want to consult a professional hair stylist for a consultation.

Q: How do I know when it’s the right time to do the Big Chop?

A: The BC should be determined at your personal discretion. If you prefer to keep your length as is, then you can opt to grow your relaxer out until the natural hair reaches your desired length. However, if you are open to a short crop, then cut the relaxed hair and start off new with natural do’. The decision is yours!