The Natural Advocate

You’ve probably seen a number of hair care products lately that contain Indian gooseberry, or amla. In addition to having numerous medicinal benefits, amla is also well-regarded for its benefits for the hair, including hair loss prevention and conditioning.

Amla, is a renowned Ayurvedic (a system of traditional medicine native to the Indian Subcontinent) and Unani (a branch of medicine based on the teachings of Hippocrates, Galen, and Avicenna) medicine. Also called amalaki or dhartriphaia, Phyllanthus emblic, syn. Emblica officinalis is the botanical Latin name for Amla. Indian gooseberry is a long-living deciduous tree from the Euphorbiaceae family. All parts of the tree are used in Ayurvedic medicine including the root, bark, flowers, leaves, seed and fruit. Amla is well known both for its berry and the oil extracted from it which is commonly referred to as Amla. The two types of amla include gramya, the cultivated type and vanya, the wild type.

Amla’s Indian History

Amla has an interesting history in India as a health and beauty aid. It is called the nurse (Dhatri) and the sustainer (Amalaki). One of the reasons it is revered is because it contains five of the six rashas or tastes (bitter, pungent, sweet, astringent and sour)—the only taste it is missing is salty. This is important because a balanced meal should contain the six tastes to cultivate wellness.

Amla is a natural ingredient good for the pitta dosha (constitution type), amla also reduces hair loss and prevents premature graying. Pitta is one of the three doshas the others being vata and kapha. Doshas can roughly be described as body, mind and spirit types. The pitta dosha lives in the small intestine, stomach, sweat, blood, plasma and sebum. Amla is good for pitta dosha because it is cooling while the natural inclination of a pitta dosha is to be hot.

The Phyto-Nutrients in Amla

Indian Gooseberry consist mostly water—as much as 80%. It contains vitamins (a rich source of vitamin C), minerals such as iron; protein, carbohydrates and fiber. The vitamin C it contains is important because it is a necessary part of the synthesis of collagen. Amla fruit contains about 20 times more vitamin C than our usual source, the orange. Collagen helps keep the cells of the body together, improves the condition of hair, nails and skin and renews cell growth. Amla is rich in antioxidants and in polyphenols.

Amla Cures

• Improves memory, brain function and thinking capacity
• Detoxifies the system
• Rejuvenates body
• Improves vision
• Boosts immunity
• Supports heart, liver, lung and bone health
• Balances stomach acids
• Improves mental disorders
• Useful during pregnancy and lactation
• Indicated for scurvy

Herbal Actions

Amla is a tonic, rejuvenator, astringent, aphrodisiac, laxative, refrigerant and stomachic.

Amla for Beauty

• Good for the skin and hair, improves elasticity
• Hair becomes more pliable, vibrant and strong with use of the oil
• Amla conditions and strengthens the hair
• Prevents scalp infections and disorders that lead to hair loss
• Prevents premature graying
• Helps hair and fingernails grow
• IImproves sheen in the hair

Amla can be eaten or consumed as a drink or taken in capsule form as an internal treatment for all conditions mentioned. It can also be applied topically as a shampoo, conditioner, or fixed oil to reap beautifying benefits.

Often when looking for a “natural” hair conditioner or hair growth aid, we turn to the herbal kingdom. As we go through our herbal options a plant that quickly comes to our attention is horsetail. This article explores the beneficial qualities of horsetail as a health and beauty aid.

Horsetail Background

Horsetail is a member of the Equisetaceae family. The type used in cosmetics and shampoos most often is Equisetum arvense L. Horsetail has many colorful folk names including scouring rush, corncob plant, horsetail grass, shavegrass, pewterwort and bottle brush. The Latin root equus, meaning horse, and seta, which means bristle, come together to form part of its botanical Latin name. Its common name “horsetail” refers to the herb’s thin, branchlike leaves which in some ways are similar to the hair of a horse’s tail. It is called scouring rush because the durable plant can be used as a natural scouring aid for pots, pans and pewter, as well as in refining some forms of art as a natural sandpaper.

Horsetail descends from the huge, tree-like plants of the Paleozoic era some 400 million years ago. Closely related to ferns, horsetail is a non-flowering weed found throughout North America, Europe, Asia and the Middle East. It is perennial plant, with hollow stems and shoots reminiscent of asparagus.

To prepare horsetail for use, the young shoots are harvested in the early spring and dried; it is also tinctured or even eaten, prepared like asparagus. As horsetail dries, silica crystals form in the stems and branches, lending the herb its scouring ability. Later in the year, horsetail levels rise significantly and then it can be an irritant to the kidneys.

Horsetail has a venerable history in Herbalism traced back to ancient Rome and Greece where it was used to stop bleeding, heal ulcers, hemorrhoids, wounds and to treat tuberculosis, anemia, as well as kidney ailments. As a traditional European folk remedy, horsetail has been used as a diuretic to reduce swelling and fluid retention. Horsetail is approved by the German Commission E as a diuretic. Horsetail is used to treat bladder infections and incontinence as well as bed wetting. This is because internal use of the herb reduces the urge to urinate. Horsetail is used to treat osteoporosis, kidney stones, urinary tract inflammation and as a topical wound healer. Horsetail has been recommended by some herbalists as a treatment for tumors and certain cancers.

Horsetail: the Health and Beauty Aid

Key to our concerns here with naturally curly hair and skincare treatments is the silica and minerals contained in horsetail. Horsetail stems are imbued with ample silica and silicic acids; in fact, it contains the most silica known in the plant kingdom. Silica forms collagen, a protein found in the skin, bones, cartilage, ligaments and connective tissues. Silica also helps bind protein molecules to many tissues in the body. The silica content helps strengthen weak, brittle, damaged hair, giving it vitality and shine with regular use.

There is a high mineral level as well including potassium, selenium and manganese. The saponins and flavonoids it contains help the skin regenerate, improving elasticity of skin and hair, promoting hair growth. Since bone, hair and fingernails require high mineral levels, horsetail is taken as a tea, tincture or applied topically as shampoo, conditioner, soak or healing balm. As a healing balm, it is used in many treatments for pattern balding.

Those with very dry hair should take note: Horsetail has a powerful antiseptic property which means excessive use could further dry out your hair. On the other hand, the astringent herb helps eliminate excessive oiliness for those with oily scalps, and also aids in removing styling product build up. Used in shampoo and conditioner horsetail is a useful remedy for dandruff, eczema, psoriasis and other troubling skin ailments. Because it promotes circulation, horsetail assists in nourishing and strengthening hair follicles.

Using Horsetail

Many shampoos, conditioners and hair growth aids contain horsetail extract. To create your own hair rinse:

2-4 teaspoons dried horsetail
Cup of boiled water

Add the horsetail to a cup of boiled water (still hot but not boiling). Let steep 15-20 minutes; strain; cool. Rinse through hair and leave on for 15-20 minutes. Rinse and style as usual. You can also strain and drink this tea warm 2-3 times per day with honey. Taking the tea internally is believed to help the hair, skin and nails the same way as applying topically.

Contraindications

The German Commission E monograph suggests using only 6 grams of the herb per day for internal use. Excessive topical use can cause dermatitis. A 2 teaspoon tincture can be used (10 ml), 3 times per day. Horsetail is generally considered safe provided the Equisetum arvense species is used. Equisetum palustre, for example, contains toxic alkaloids that are well-known livestock poisons. Horsetail is not recommended for women who are pregnant or nursing. Certain drugs may interact with horsetail as well. The crude form of the herb may destroy the B vitamin thiamine unless it is refined in a way to prevent this from happening.

About the Author: Stephanie Rose Bird (BFA, MFA) is an herbalist and aromatherapist based in the Chicago area. She is also the author of several books including the recently released “Big Book of Soul: the Ultimate Guide to the African American Spirit” and “A Healing Grove: African Tree Remedies and Rituals for Body and Spirit”.

The benefits of the sausage tree are just becoming known in the U.S.

By now you are probably familiar with my writing here on NaturallyCurly. I’m the herbalist contributor who writes plant monographs on various medicinal botanicals and natural products used in hair and skin care which hold benefits specific to curly hair. I write about the familiar ingredients popping up in beauty products — ingredients like avocado, murumuru, acai, neroli and bitter orange tree.

I listen to you, the readers, to find out what you’re seeing on the beauty shelves and what it is you seek to learn more about. At the same time, I have my own personal interests in botanicals from continental Africa — Earth-friendly products that are sustainable and that help communities economically.

Recently, a tree has come across my radar that is garnering attention on the international marketplace, especially in the UK. You might not have heard about it yet. This is a tree whose products are truly deserving of room on your health and beauty shelves. Meet Kigeli-Keia — also known as sausage or cucumber tree.

A truly fascinating specimen, sausage tree is a tropical species occurring in the eastern part of South Africa — for example, Swaziland, Namibia, Mozambique, Zimbabwe and northwards as far as Tanzania. It is called Nufuten in Ghana, and grows on banks or close to rivers and large streams elsewhere in tropical Africa from Eritrea to Chad and west to Senegal. Many trees that grow near water are held in awe by traditional healers in various parts of Africa, the Caribbean and Americas as holding holistic healing potential. As we take this journey into the realm of Kigeli-Keia, it is important to note that the tree growing on this terrain shows exceptional healing potential.

Growth and Habit

Sausage tree blooms.

Sausage tree fruit.

The tree is fairly erect, not branching a great deal. Where it does branch, the tips of the branches remain very thick, giving it a somewhat stout appearance. The sausage tree is a deciduous fruit-bearer that sheds its leaves in late autumn or winter, depending on moisture. Flowers are a spectacular dark red. In spring, they open, living as long as two months. They are set in whorls of three on a central rachis.

Sausage-shaped fruit grows up to 10 centimeters in diameter. It is dull greenish-grey, hard and very heavy. Fruit hangs from a very long, sturdy stalk, and falls in March and April. The pod-like fruits remains on the ground many months.

Chemical Constituents

Kigeli-Keia offers a number of beneficial effects for kinky, curly and wavy hair. It is a natural conditioning treatment that deters eczema. Creams or pomades featuring high concentrations of this elixir minimize the rashes that arise from shaving the hair line, when wearing hair close-cropped yet curly.

Kigeli-Keia can be used to treat burns that come from chemical or heat straighteners of hair. It contains natural pain relievers. It can be useful for very tight braids, extensions, twists, knot styles — also on the shoulders and hands of the braider or stylist.

Scientists analyze the chemical constituents of the various tree parts and run tests to isolate the specific beneficial qualities of this tree’s constituents and to understand its lengthy use as an important traditional healer’s tree medicine. They have found it contains:

• Napthaquinones (including kigelinone)
• EFAs (including vernolic acid)
• Courmarins (including kigelin)
• Iridoids
• Caffeic acid
• Norviburtinal
• Sterols (sitosterol and stigmasterol); Steroids have been used to treat skin disorders such as eczema
• Flavonoids: luteolin and 6 hydroxluteiolin; have hygroscopic and fungicidal properties
• Anecdotal evidence suggests skin cancer use and Kaposi sarcoma (an HIV-related skin ailment) treatment
• Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties
• Anti-malarial, anti-bacterial, anti-viral

Traditional Black South African Uses

South African people have a long history of using this tree to fight, treat, soothe, attract or deter:

• Fungal infections
• Skin treatment: eczema, psoriasis, boils
• Serious skin ailments, such as leprosy
• Ringworm and tapeworm
• Post-partum hemorrhaging
• Diabetes
• Pneumonia
• Toothache
• Tonga women use it as a cosmetic against sun and anti-aging properties
• Used to promote Aphrodisiac qualities
• Fruit is used to ferment beer
• Leaves are livestock fodder
• Wild animal food: monkeys, parrots, baboons, elephants, etc.,
• Treatment for piles (boiled roots, stem, and bark)
• Against gonorrhea (decoction of bark)
• Wash to treat rheumatism

Products Containing Kigeli-keia

A.E Hobbs Ltd. Shampoo
A.E. Hobbs Ltd. Scalp Application
BioBotanica Skin Care with Kigelia Extract
BioBotanica Sun Care with Kegelia Extract
Cellex-C Under Eye Toning Gel
Enriched Pure Olive Kegelia Body Silk Spritz
Kigelia Cream for Psoriasis, Eczema, Cancer Recovery
Kigelia Pure Gel for Acne, Eczema, Dermatitis

Stephanie Rose Bird is an artist and writer. She is the author of Sticks, Stones, Roots & Bones: Hoodoo, Mojo & Conjuring with Herbs and Four Seasons of Mojo: An Herbal Guide to Natural Living.
She also hosts a Yahoo study and practice group based on her writing here.

Henna’d hands

Last night I offered myself a calming, somewhat exotic, aromatic retreat. It was probably one of hundreds of times that I’ve indulged in henna to make mehendi — beautiful tattoos — or to dye my hair. Starting from the time when I was a teenager, henna has been a most pleasurable aspect of my health and beauty regimen.

I know you’ve heard of henna, but do you know it’s history, how it grows and from whence it came? I hope to provide some background on its long history as a medicinal herb for the mind, body and spirit.

A History of Henna

Henna is an herbaceous shrub called Lawsonia inermis in botanical Latin. It was named after the British explorer John Lawson in the early 1700s. The use of the herb for health and beauty is far older than the British discovery, dating back to 3,500 BC, and has had a presence in human civilization for 7,000 years.

Henna powder

Henna is a Persian word for a plant with many names. In Arabic it is called Khanna. In India, henna is called by many names depending on the dialect: menhadi, mehendi, mehedi, mendi, hina. And in Sanskrit, it is mendika. Ancient hieroglyphs in tombs in the Valley of the Nile refers to it by the Egyptian name pouquer. Pouquer refers to dye created from the plant, used to color the fingernails of mummies. A lovely perfume created from henna plant is referred to as camphire, in the K’oran. Since the Hindus of India call it mehendi — a name synonymous with temporary henna tattoos — I will refer to henna alternately by this name when speaking of hair care.

In early India, henna was applied by dipping palms and soles into a thick paste of crushed fresh leaves, creating a solid red stain without a pattern. Middle Eastern henna was done by mixing dried powdered leaves into a paste and applying it with a stick. Henna is still in use in parts of Asia, especially India, the Middle East and the Continental African countries. It also is catching on in Australia, North American and Europe.

A Henna Timeline

Uses of Henna: Cool Medicine for Health and Beauty

Henna can be used to condition and color the hair. For curly tops, Henna’s benefits include:

• Amps up volume
• Building body
• Decreasing chemical and greasy build-ups
• Emphasizing shine
• Developing subtlety in hue and tone
• Yielding creative colors (avoids “out of the box” tired-look)
• Excellent conditioner for all hair types
• Wound healer
• Good for sensitive and irritated scalp
• Reliable natural colorant for kinky, curly, wavy and thick hair which may be resistant to other types
• Inexpensive
• Widely available

Hair Products Containing Henna

DevaRed Sacred
Love No-Poo

DevaRed Sacred Love No-Poo (See reviews)
DevaRed Sacred Love One Condition (See reviews)
DevaRed Sacred Love Low-Poo (See reviews)
Batia & Aleeza Bio-Natural Shampoo (See reviews)
Circle of Friends Dragon Dance Conditioner
Curlisto Botanical Shampoo (See reviews)
Curlisto Hi-Lights Shampoo (See reviews)
Curlisto Botanical Rinse (See reviews)
Curlisto Straight Time Glaze (See reviews)
Curlisto Travel Kit
Fairy Tales Detangling Conditioner (See reviews)
Jane Carter Condition & Sculpt (See reviews)
Aubrey Organics Egyptian Henna Shine-enhancing Shampoo
Klorane Henna Shampoo
Nature’s Gate Rainwater Henna Shampoo and Conditioner
Hennulucent (variety of hair colors henna-based)
Sobanu Henna Scalp Cleanser
Light Mountain Henna Hair Color and Conditioner
Somang Henna Hair Rinse
Shikai Henna Gold Color Enhancing Shampoo Silver Hair Formula
Hask Placenta Henna N Placenta Hair Care Kit Super Strength
Surya Ucuuba Restructuring Hair Mask (See reviews)

Henna also is a strong medicinal herb, with many potent and promising qualities, including:

• Antipyretic (a natural coolant) hence its popularity in hot climates.
• Antispasmodic (soothing), antiseptic, astringent (drying), antibacterial and antifungal
• Natural sun screen; screens off chemicals and is effective for soothing sunburn applied as a paste topically.
• Natural deodorant and antiperspirant, especially for the feet.
• Dyeing the soul of the feet is called a step-in design. This insulates the foot from hot desert sands and alluring adornment is a painted, cheap substitute for sandals.
• In Ayurvedic medicine, henna tea is a beverage used to treat many ailments including: headache, fever, and stomach pain.
• Soothing to skin ailments.
• Remedies from around the world feature henna as a curative for rheumatism, nervousness, and certain types of tumors, cancer and sexually transmitted diseases and even for leprosy.
• In aromatherapy, the scent of the fragrant henna flower is used to make hina perfume. Gulhina or hina perfume is purchased in small bottles (drams) of thick oil from health food stores and specialty Asian suppliers (see resources). The oil can be applied neat (straight) dabbed on to the pulse points, temples or crown of the head. Gulhina and Hina are calming and balancing scents used by both men and women.

From Nefertiti to Cleopatra

While henna can be applied anywhere, and even taken internally, it is most widely used as an application to the hair, hands and feet. While some folks do not associate henna tattoos with Africa, it has a lengthy history on the continent. It is believed that the Canaanites spread the tradition of using henna across the Mediterranean to North Africa between 1700 and 600 BCE. Nefertiti was a famous redhead whose name translates as “The beautiful one comes.” It is thought that her hair was made red with henna. Cleopatra used henna and rosewater to create an alluring dip for the sails of her boat when she was approaching Mark Antony.

North African nomadic people have a distinctive way of decorating with henna that incorporates pre-Islamic mythology, folklore and symbols. The Berber and Tuareg formulate a deep, almost black color of henna paste, which is then applied in large, bold, geometric patterns.

Henna was incorporated into the customs of Muslims in the 6th century CE. Henna traditions were long established in Arabia, and it was used by Mohammed’s wives to color his beard. The henna flower is considered the favorite of Mohammed. Muslims use the henna plant in various ways. Some of the most complex and elegant henna designs created were done between 900 to 1700 CE in the Islamic countries of Africa and the Middle East.

Making and Using Henna or Mehendi

If you want to learn more about henna, the best way is by jumping in. Follow this time-tested recipe for hair dye, foot dip or mehendi tattoos.

Directions for Henna

1. Bring a cup of water to a boil. Add two rosehip or rooibos tea bags and 1 black tea bag. Cover. Steep overnight.
2. Pour approximately 1 cup of the green henna powder into a non-reactive (stainless steel or Pyrex) bowl.
3. Add the tea to the powder.
4. Stir to form a thick paste. (Add liquid slowly so that mix doesn’t become watery.)
5. To enhance the staining power, stir in 1 tablespoon honey; 1 teaspoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon rosewater; a few drops of eucalyptus essential oil and oil of clove. This is called a mordant. (Use sparingly as they are skin irritants; avoid altogether if you have allergies). Let sit for one hour so color can mature. Add either more warmed liquid or more henna until you have achieved the desired pasty Greek-yogurt styled consistency.
6. While maturing your henna batch, create a lemon sugar glaze. Squeeze and strain the juice of a ripe lemon (remove seeds and discard). Add three tablespoons white sugar. Stir together lemon juice and sugar. Set aside.
7. Henna hair by parting the hair into small sections. Completely saturate the hair shaft from root to ends with the henna paste. Rub it in gently, then twist or clip and move this hair atop the head to move on to the next section until finished. Put on a shower cap or tin foil to keep in heat. Sit out in the sun if possible, or under a dryer placed on the lowest heat setting for 40 minutes. Leave henna on as long as possible – at least 1 hour. Rinse thoroughly and condition very well because henna can be very drying (do not shampoo to rinse). Style as usual.
8. For mehendi: dip fingers, soles of the feet or create an intuitive abstract pattern (the simpler the better). When the henna begins to dry apply lemon-sugar blend with a cotton swab. Reapply lemon sugar every twenty minutes until a protective glaze forms. You can also use a porcupine quill for creating the designs (easily purchased from a beading supply shop or craft store) or bamboo skewer to draw more intricate designs. Most henna artisans prefer pastry-decorating tubes with very narrow tips to spread henna. (See suppliers in the appendix) When glaze forms on the hennaed design gently wrap hands in gauze or toilet paper to protect designs. Be sure to keep hands warm. I usually put my hands in a large pair of clean, old cotton socks at this stage. Alternately you can hold hennaed hands near a lit fireplace, over a candle flame (far enough away so that you do not burn yourself or wrapping) or the best yet–drink hot herbal tea like peppermint or chamomile with honey.
9. Keep henna on your hands or feet as long as possible –a minimum of four hours; overnight is preferred. Your dreams will be very interesting!
10. In the morning, flake off the henna manually; do not use water in this process.
11. Massage with sesame or olive oil but try to refrain from washing with soap for six hours. Rinse with rose water or orange flower water.

For Temporary Tattoos (books, kits, stencils, henna herb and more)

• Mehandi.com, Supplies for Hair and Body Art
• Tap Dancing Lizard, LLC.,Phone 330-688-1130 FAX 330-688-8803
• The Henna Page
• Tigerfly Natural Perfumery

Stephanie Rose Bird is an artist and writer. She is the author of Sticks, Stones, Roots & Bones: Hoodoo, Mojo & Conjuring with Herbs and Four Seasons of Mojo: An Herbal Guide to Natural Living.
She also hosts a Yahoo study and practice group based on her writing here.

The antioxidant benefits of tea for the body have been well-publicized. But tea is also good for the hair and skin, which is why it’s showing up in a growing number of beauty products.

I’ve done some digging and will take you behind the tea scene to understand what it is, what it does, and the differences between the various varieties.

Tea is a generic word for an herbal infusion we herbalists also call a tisane. Herbal infusions are usually created from tender parts of herbs such as buds, flowers, shoots and leaves rather than tougher parts such as the root or bark.

Green, Black or White Tea: It’s a Maturity Thing (Camellia sinensis)

Tea is one of the oldest natural remedies known to man. Legend has it that a fresh leaf from Camellia sinensis fell into Chinese Emperor’s pot that was boiling water outside. He was intrigued by the smell, tasted it, enjoyed it and decided to make it a regular habit. The type of tea the emperor made by mistake is called “green tea” since it was made from fresh green leaves of Camellia sinensis. There are more than three thousand varieties of tea created from Camellia sinensis.

In terms of camellia teas, green tea is one of the strongest healing medicines, followed by oolong and black. Green tea contains antioxidants believed to be two hundred times stronger than vitamin E. It protects the cells from carcinogens that can cause cancer. It also lowers cholesterol, metabolizes fat, reduces blood pressure, regulates blood sugar and has an antibacterial action. Green tea, and all tea for that matter, helps teeth and gums stay healthy by blocking plaque-forming bacteria. Green tea also contains fluoride.

Black teas are fermented, creating numerous strong, dark-colored teas. In China, the semi-fermented teas are called oolong and black is fully fermented. Black assam, Ceylon and Darjeeling refer to regions in Southeast Asia and India.

Black Tea can be used on hair in a number of ways. As we grow older, our hair gradually turns gray, losing its natural color. For some, this process begins as early as the 20s. Many women are not ready for such a big change and some want to hold onto their natural hair color. Like most dark fibers, brunette or black hair is more resistant to dyes than light fibers or blond hair. Tea rinses work with existing color, providing subtle highlights, increased shine and youthful vibrancy without permanent changes. (See below for a Black Tisane Hair Rinse recipe).

All white teas contain higher catechins, gallic acid, theobromine and caffeine. They are the least fermented of Camellia sinensis teas and the highest in antioxidants.

This antioxidant effect protects and strengthens both hair and skin. Polyphenols are very active in both green and white tea. These phenols capture and neutralize free radicals thought to pervert cells, causing cancer. In fact these two grades of tea are 20 times more potent than vitamin E in neutralizing free radicals, actually encouraging cancer cells to commit suicide and leaving your body in remission.

White tea protects against UVA rays and sun damage when applied topically as a shampoo or conditioner. As a finishing product or leave-in conditioner, it encourages hair colorants to stay fresher-looking longer while adding vibrancy to natural hair. Because kinky, curly and wavy hair can have a tendency to look dull, white tea can be used to produce shine.

When seeking teas high in antioxidants to strengthen and condition the hair, look for hair products containing Rooibos. This tea also makes a fine rinse and will lend a definite red tone to brunette or dark blond hair. It is the perfect liquid to add to mehendi for temporary tattoos, henna paste, ready-made shampoo or conditioners to bring out hidden red highlights.

Hair Products Containing Tea

Long Lovely Locks Green Hair Gloss (See reviews)
Long Lovely Locks Green Tea Hair Cleanse (See reviews)
Curl Junkie Healthy Condition Daily Conditioner (See reviews)
Elucence Volume Clarifying Shampoo (See reviews)
Inner Peace Whipped Creme Texturizer
(See reviews)
Innersense Inner Reflection Finishing Polish (See reviews)
Oyin Honeywash (See reviews)
Fresh Hair Cream
Philip B Shin Shine
ApHOGEE Keratin & Green Tea Restructurizer
Aubrey Organics Green Tea Reconstructor
Scruples White Tea Sulfate-free Restorative Shampoo
Scruples White Tea Restorative Conditioner
Scruples White Tea Magical Serum
Scruples White Tea Miracle Foam Conditioner
Scruples White Tea Satin Paste
Scruples White Tea Velvet Molding Gloss
Scruples White Tea Embrace Luxury Hold Hair Spray

Black Tisane Hair Rinse

This is an age-old formula for blending gray hair into darkly colored hair that I first learned of from the Gullah people. The Gullah, in case you are unfamiliar, reside in the Carolina and Georgia sea coast island areas and have kept much of their West African tribal culture intact through their folklore, medicine, food, arts and Creole language. This tisane works on the same principle of tea or coffee we don’t like for our teeth—staining; facilitated by the high concentration of tannic acids.

1½ cups distilled water
3 tablespoons black tea (loose leaf assam, Ceylon or oolong is recommended or use three Tetley tea bags)

Yield: approximately 12 ounces
Shelf life: 2 weeks

English Teatime

To make a good cup of tea, you need patience. I like the old English method:

Add cold water to kettle. Boil water; turn off heat. Pour some into clean tea cup and let it sit 3-5 minutes. Pour this water out into plugged kitchen sink for washing up dishes later. Add tea bags or infuser with herbs inside (usually about a single teaspoon to a cup of water) to cups. Pour very hot water from teakettle into cup until it is ¾ full. Steep at least 5 minutes longer for a stronger brew. Remove tea bag or infuser or strain. Drink as is or add what you prefer. Now that you’re warm from the inside let’s proceed.

Boil water; add tea leaves. Cover; reduce heat to medium. Simmer 20 minutes. Reduce heat to low; simmer 20 minutes. Turn off heat; steep 1 hour. Strain. Apply using catch method. Catch method means pour the tea from a pitcher over your hair with a catch bowl ready underneath the bowl to catch excess liquid. You pour the tea back and forth slowly over your hair from bowl to pitcher and pitcher to bowl so that your hair is thoroughly saturated with the tea and capable of soaking in its subtle natural dyes. Do this 12-14 times. This black tea dye is a reliable color enhancer for brunettes providing good cover for graying hair of about 25% total gray.

Stephanie Rose Bird is an artist and writer. She is the author of Sticks, Stones, Roots & Bones: Hoodoo, Mojo & Conjuring with Herbs and Four Seasons of Mojo: An Herbal Guide to Natural Living.
She also hosts a Yahoo study and practice group based on her writing here.

Aloe Vera

There are a couple of ways people cope with kinky, curly or wavy hair.

First, we tend to fuss with it, reaching for heat instruments, chemical relaxers, chemical treatments or torturous hairstyles that “tame it down.” You know, keep it in control.

Then there are those who are happy to let their hair do its thing, finding pleasure in its many twists and turns.

Like most of you reading this article, I’ve been in both places. Most of my youth was spent having my hair cared for by others: greased-up, pulled back, poofed up, smoothed down, pressed hard and, alas, relaxed until it was lifeless and the scalp of my very sensitive head was blistered, scarred and scorched.

For nearly the last decade, I’ve been in the No. 2 camp. To start the journey, I found pleasure wearing a very short, close-cropped ‘fro. I’ve worn my hair in phat plaits, minute micro-braids, sculptural corn-rows, Goddess braids, double-strand twists with and without extensions and Nubian knots. The beauty shops found a good client in me. It was from the double-strand twist that my hair decided to lock up on its own, and now they trail well past the middle of my back.

What has been the common thread while in both camps? A plant known as aloe vera.

A Plant for Us

Aloe vera gel is a boon for us kinky, curly gals. It helps fix damage from heat appliances. For natural sistahs in the other camp, aloe vera should be one of your staples.

Aloe vera is the styling aid nonpareil, smoothing as it is soothing, controlling without stiffness. If you wear your hair straightened, heat set, flat-ironed, pressed, corn-rowed, French braided, micro-braided, Sengalese twist, Nubian knotted, straw set, afro-puffed or in a straight up afro, this is the natural ingredient for all of you. That is why it’s showing up as the main ingredient in a growing number of hair products for curly hair.

Just as there are two camps, there are different ways to use aloe:

• Use aloe vera after procedures that cause burns and for the treatment for blisters and scars
• Use for setting of any type of wet hair (braided ‘wave set’, ‘rod set’, ‘straw set’, hard curler set and so forth)
• Use as an astringent (reduces oily build up)
• Use as a styling aid to emphasize wave pattern, curly texture for men, women and children and certain pets
• Use as an African setting aid: for French braids, corn rows, lock maintenance, micro-braids, etc

There’s much more to know about Aloe Vera, this widely available, inexpensive, animal and earth friendly herb.

Aloe is a succulent plant with clusters of long, bayonet-like leaves that is prickly at the edges and tips. It can produce a woody stem up to 15 meters tall. It has spikes of flowers in various colors, including yellow, orange and red.

Aloe vera has been used in preparations throughout the ages.

The aloe plant has a lengthy history in Africa and the Middle East. Prospero Alpino reported Egyptian women perfumed their genitals with aloe. Aloe was used in remedies to treat fever and plague. The plants grew in Somalia in the times of Alexander’s conquests. In the Bible, aloe is referred to as “ahaloth,” and is recorded as a perfumery herb. The Copts used aloe with other ingredients to treat eye disease, swelling and other disorders.

In recent history, people felt they could gain health benefits from orally consuming aloe juice and the gel. Aloe does contain volatile oils and aloins that are very purgative. Because of its purgative quality, it shouldn’t be used if you are pregnant or have hemorrhoids. Consumption of aloe in large quantities could prove very painful. As it stands, there is no thorough scientific test to show consuming aloe has health benefits.

The Jamaican people have a great adoration for aloe, which they call “Sinkle Bible.” In Jamaica, it is used to cut the sweetness in the blood. It is also used to purify the blood, cleanse the system and calm the nerves.

Today, aloe is mostly used in skin- and hair-care products. Aloe gel can be easily created in your own kitchen in the following manner:

1. Purchase a long aloe stalk at the green grocer, botanica or fruitera, or an entire plant from a florist if desired.
2. Thank the aloe for sharing her medicine with you.
3. Cut off just enough of the leaf as is needed.
4. Slit it open using your penknife or sharp kitchen knife.
5. Scrape gel into a plastic bag, plate or container.
6. Apply to the area to be treated or styled.

Aloe is widely available in health food stores and even in regular drugstores and supermarkets. I recommend purchasing the product pure and organic for your hair, skin and scalp.

Hair Products Products containing Aloe

Naani’s Natural’s Fallen No More Frizzies Aloe Vera Gel
Wen Cucumber Aloe Cleansing Conditioner
Blended Beauty Kick For Curls Aloe Spritz Juice
Blended Beauty Curl Styling Butter
Blended Beauty Curl Styling Lotion
Blended Cutie Down & Out Styles
Blended Beauty SilkShake
Blended Beauty Soft Curls & Swirls
Blended Beauty Satin Style Detangler
Fairy Tales Super Charge Detangling Shampoo
Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner
So Cozy Green Apple Swimmer’s Shampoo
AG Fast Food
AG Hair Cosmetics Stimulating Balm
Alagio Silk Obsession Silk Smoothing Leave-in Detangler
Alagio Silk Obsession Silk Smoothing Serum
Alagio Silk Obsession Silk Smoothing Shampoo
Batia & Aleeza Bio-Protein Conditioner
Circle of Friends Ana Banana Shampoo
Circle of Friends Dragon Dance Conditioner
Curl Junkie Coco-Milk Conditioner
Curl Junkie CoffeeCoco Curl Creme
Curl Junkie Curl Fuel Curl Enhancing Spray
Curl Junkie Curl Rehab Hair Oil
Curl Junkie Give ‘Em Slip
Curl Junkie Guava & Protein Curl Creme
Curl Junkie Hibiscus & Banana Deep Fix
Curl Junkie Intense Protection Leave-In
CurlFriends Control Gel
CurlFriends Rejuvenate Texturizing Mist
Curlisto Aqualizer
Curlisto Bio Curl Conditioner
Curlisto Bio-Gel Mousse
Curlisto Botanical Rinse
Curlisto Botanical Shampoo
Curlisto Curl Reform
Curlisto Deep Therapy Masque
Curlisto Matte Stay
Curlisto Protein Boost
Curlisto Repair Styling Cream
Curly Hair Solutions Slip Detangler
Fairy Tales Lemon-Aid Conditioner
Fairy Tales Rosemary Repel Conditioner
Fuzzy Duck Anti-Frizz Gel
Fuzzy Duck Detangler & Refresher Spray
Fuzzy Duck Kids’ Conditioner
Hamadi Shea Spray
Jessicurl Aloeba Daily Conditioner
Jessicurl Awe Inspiraling Spray
Jessicurl Confident Coils
John Masters Evening Primrose Shampoo
Kinky-Curly Curling Custard
Little Sprout Moisturizing Baby Shampoo
Circle of Friends Erik’s Shaping Gel
Mop Top Deep Conditioner
MYHoneyChild Banana Creme Scalp Cleanser
Philip Pelusi Recurl
The Jane Carter Solution Moisture Nourishing Shampoo
Hair Rules Aloe Grapefruit Clarifying Shampoo

Stephanie Rose Bird is author of “Four Seasons of Mojo: An Herbal Guide to Natural Living” and “Sticks, Stones, Roots and Bones: Hoodoo, Mojo and Conjuring with Herbs”
She hosts and moderates a group for eclectic practitioners of earth-based spirituality using her books as study guides:

Pomegranate

Almost overnight, pomegranate is appearing everywhere.

The pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) , is because it is being touted as a miracle food. Curly tops may have noticed that it now is a key ingredient in beauty products, including shampoos and conditioners. Are you wondering why this gorgeous, deep red, seed-heavy food – once found only in potpourri – now is inundating our pantries and bathroom cabinets? Then read on.

Contrary to popular belief, the pomegranate is not a fruit but the berry pf an African and Asian tree called Punica granatum. Its original Latin name “arbor punica,” means “Carthaginian tree” because Romans first encountered large groves of pomegranate trees growing in North Africa’s famed city of Carthage. Rome waged war with Carthage, and they were named the Punic Wars. Punic is a root word evident in its Latin etymology as well as the description of its chemical constituents. Its other Latin names are malum punicum (Carthaginian apple) and malum granatum (seedy fruit). Pomegranate gained notoriety in ancient Carthage, quickly spreading at the hands of the Romans to the Mediterranean, Middle East and parts of India — all places where they still are enjoyed in local cuisine and folk medicine.

Habit, Growth, Distribution

The pomegranate only has one genus and two species. It is a small tree or shrub growing between 20 and 30 feet high. The pomegranate tree is spiny, with multiple branches, and can live as long as 200 years. Its leaves are about 4 inches long and are and leathery textured. Bold flowers appear on the branch tips, with as many as five to a cluster. The seeds represent more than half of the pomegranate’s body weight.

The trees continue to thrive in tropical Africa and North Africa, the East Indies and Middle East as well as arid regions of Southeast Asia. Pomegranates are commonly planted in Bermuda. The tree was introduced to Latin and North America around 1760. Pomegranate trees prefer a mild, temperate, subtropical climate, yet adapt to regions with cool winters and hot summers. They are grown as far north as Washington D.C.

Berry of Myth and Legend

Pomegranates have such a unique appearance that they have sparked many a myth and legend. Considered an aphrodisiac, the rich red color lends itself to use in love magic.

Although it has recently stormed onto the scene as a super food, it has a long history in health and beauty. It has been used in Africa since at least New Kingdom, Egypt as a medicine and a nourishing food.

North African Medicinal Uses of Pomegranate

In holistic health, it is important not to isolate parts of the plant while disposing of the rest. Many parts of the pomegranate tree are useful, and knowing all of its uses rather than focusing solely on the berry can be helpful in your holistic health regimen.

• Pomegranate tree root bark is anthelmintic (destroys or causes expulsion of parasitic intestinal worms.)
• The tree bark is also a vermifuge; (expels worms)
• Root and bark can be extracted to release astringent solution.
• Pomegranate wood is a malleable wood good for carving and is used in crafts.
• The rind is especially astringent.
• The dried pulverized rind is used to treat ulcers of the digestive tract.
• It is antidiarrheic (controls diarrhea) and hemostatic (arrests flow of blood or hemmoraging). Revered as a dentifrice (used to cleanse teeth, strengthen the gums and fight plague).
• Rind and flowers yield important dyes used in textiles

Berry (Fruit)

• used to treat leucorrhea and for pectoral troubles
• It is an effective preventative for air borne infections because of its cleansing (diuretic and astringent) actions./li>
• Ripe fruit is used to treat infections of the digestive tract.
• Ink is created from steeped leaves.

Parts of the entire tree are used in tanning and curing leather. The bark contains 10 to 25 percent tannin. Root bark has 28 percent tannin; the leaves 11 percent tannin and fruit rind up to 26 percent tannin. Pomegranate’s leaves, fruit and peel are used for astringent properties and to stop diarrhea. The bark, stem and root contain alkaloids used against tapeworm. Bark leaves and unripe fruit are astringent, halting diarrhea, dysentery, hemorrhages. Leaves, roots, seeds, bark are hypotensive, antispasmodic and anthelmintic. Flower buds are mildly astringent.

Pulverized flower buds are employed for bronchitis. The arils or seed casings are separated from skin. The internal parts — called pith and capillary membrane — are removed and the seed is consumed raw. The taste is widely varied from sweet to tangy to sour The seed shows uterine relaxing activity and estrogenic effect.

Benefits of Various Pomegranate Preparations

This is the best way to consume it because of the high concentration and lack of sugar, which provide greater healthy benefits.

Pomegranate juice is a popular drink in the Middle East, especially with Persian (Iranian) and Indian cuisine. A 100 ml-serving of the juice provides 16 percent of the daily adult requirement of vitamin C. It is also a good source of pantothenic acid, potassium and antioxidant polyphenols.

A stable and effective way for kitchen-cosmetic makers and large scaled beauty product designers to utilized pomegranate’s benefits is through the oil. Certified organic Pomegranate Oil is usually cold pressed, thus it is unrefined. Oil can be used to make handmade shampoo bar, soap, pomades and more. Antioxidants contained in pomegranate oil are fight aging by stimulating cell regeneration, increasing elasticity and decreasing visible signs of aging, such as wrinkles. The botanical oil nourishes and fortifies the outer epidermal layer of the skin, making it a beloved skin treatment for everyone from maturing people to children or teens prone to skin eruption and irritation. Dry and cracked skin, such as that found at the heels or elbows during winter, can benefit from pomegranate oil. Serious skins disorders, such as eczema and psoriasis, also benefit from pomegranate oil.

Pomegranate and Beauty

Pomegranate oil is preferred for hot oil treatments or pre-shampoo soothing for frizzy, over-processed hair and for general conditioning for kinky, curly and wavy hair. Pomegranate oil will enhance the appearance and feel of hair, help with detangling and will moisturize the hair shaft.

Pomegranate oil is a boon to those with distressed fingernails and cuticles. It can be applied warm as a rub or as a manicure soak. This oil can greatly benefit those who have just removed gel nails because it repairs damage.

Loaded with Vitamins

Vitamin C: 100 ml of the juice provides 16 percent of the daily adult requirement of vitamin C.

Pantothenic acid: Also known as vitamin B5. This vitamin has been highly touted in hair and skin products, and has been used as a supplement for years. It is one of the B complex thought to reduce visible signs and symptoms of stress, including depression or prematurely graying, thinning and dry hair, skin and nails. Vitamin B5 plays an important role in the secretion of cortisone, which supports the adrenal gland. These hormones assist the metabolism, help deter allergies benefit appearance and improve the feel of hair, nails and skin, as well as the performance of muscles and nerves.

Ellagic acid: Ellagic acid once hydrolyzed helps a substance absorb more easily into the hair, skin, nails and other parts of the body. Ellagic acid in pomegranate is responsible for its ability to be absorbed easily, without any greasiness.

Punicalagins: Punicalagins are tannic acids that lend antioxidant power and emollient qualities, benefitting the appearance and feel, condition of the hair, skin and nails. These acids are responsible for reduction of oxidation and stress on hair and skin when using pure pomegranate-rich products.

Beauty Products Containing Pomegranate

Curl Junkie Pomade

Curl Junkie Coffee-Coco Curl Creme
Curl Junkie Guava & Protein Curl Creme
Curl Junkie Olive Pomade
Fresh Pomegranate Conditioning Hair Rinse
Klorane Pomegranate Hair Repair Balm
Klorane Beautifying Shampoo with Pomegranate Extract Burt’s Bees Pomegranate and Soy Very Volumizing Shampoo and Conditioner
Back to Basics Pomegranate Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner New York Soap Company Pomegranate Shampoo Nature’s Gate
Pomegranate Sunflower Skin Defense Lotion.

The cacao tree is as beautiful and intriguing as it is useful. One of the top economic botanical plants, theombroma cacaos pods yield cocoa butter, cocoa powder and that confection we desire most of all during February—chocolate.

Savoring cacao’s numerous health benefits is a nourishing treat for skin and hair—adding shine, vibrancy and improving the general health of both. By using chocolate and cocoa butter products on your hair and skin, you get to enjoy the delightful chocolatey aroma and reap the benefits of antioxidants, vitamin and mineral, while skipping the fear and guilt of overindulging this February 14th.

The obroma Cacao tree grows in the tropical rainforests of Central America and Africa (particularly Ghana), where it makes a significant impact on the local economy. The tree is a remarkable sight. It has dark brown bark, resembling the color of chocolate. White flowers grow directly from the branches and trunk of the tree. The delicate, light-colored blossoms create a sharp visual contrast against the deeply colored, rough-looking bark. In fact, the cacao tree is one of the more unusual trees that I’ve seen. The scent emitted by the trees subtle - not the

rich chocolate aroma you might expect.

The part of Theobroma Cacao used in most in natural beauty products is also edible, derived from the processed beans. This article examines cocoa butter and its benefits for the hair and skin. Then we’ll focus on the tree’s other gift — chocolate.

Cocoa Butter

Cocoa butter is created from hydraulic pressings of the cocoa nib or cocoa mass from cocoa beans, which are further refined through filtering or centrifuge. The scent of cocoa butter is removed using steam or a vacuum. Some herbalists massage therapists and aromatherapists prefer the scentless substance called deodorized cocoa butter.

Cocoa beans are 15 percent fat. Cocoa butter has been traditionally used as a skin softener, emollient, belly rub and soothing substance for burns. The oil is a very attractive as an ingredient in herbal cosmetics. It is useful as a superfatting[1] agent in soap. Oils and fats have different saponification value - “SAP values” - which is the amount that it will take to fully saponify 1 oz. of that oil. Because of this, each fat requires a different amount of lye to convert the fat to soap. Cocoa butter has a SAP value of 0.137.

Cocoa butter is a useful ingredient for vegans (those who prefer no animal products including beeswax) since cocoa butter is a serviceable hardener, thickener and counterbalance to stickier ingredients like shea butter. An additional contribution of cocoa butter is that no solvents are involved in its manufacture; it is a human food-grade, edible ingredient. The edible aspect is appealing to those who desire wholesome, nurturing ingredients in homemade potions, creams and healing balms. Cocoa butter is widely available, ships well, is reasonably priced and has a shelf life of two to five years.

The high stearic composition allows cocoa butter to increase the hardness in handmade soaps and healing balms. In a pinch, I have substituted it for bees ax with good results. It can also be used as base oil in soapmaking. When used this way, it is best combined with other oils, such as coconut oil, to produce a lather. The addition of tropical oils - coconut, palm or almond oil - also helps create a looser healing balm or salve that melts faster.

A hard soap, containing large concentrations of cocoa butter lasts for a long time in the bath. Cocoa butter-enriched soap will also hold intricate patterns of elaborate molds.

One of my favorite ways to use cocoa butter is simply to hold a small chunk of the butter in my hand as I run hot water in the bathtub. The cocoa butter melts and acts as a skin softener in the bath. After the bath, particularly during winter, I find cocoa butter useful on rough skin areas. I apply it nightly to my heels after a bath and then promptly put on cotton socks for an evening of foot softening. This also works well on calloused hands.

Black Cocoa Butter

Black cocoa butter is one of my newest obsessions. Most of you are probably familiar with the eggshell-colored cocoa butter that has been widely available for quite a while. Most of the ordinary cocoa butter that comes from Africa is processed before the seeds are allowed to germinate. With black cocoa butter, the cacao pods are germinated first, which produces a deep, espresso-colored butter that smells like roasted cocoa. As body butter, it truly lives up to the botanical name Theobroma cacao - “food of the gods.”

If you want to try something a little different in your skin-softening regimen. consider black cocoa butter because it is softer and more readily malleable than the cream-colored type. Black cocoa butter[2] is very easily absorbed by the skin,* and a nice addition to soaps, lip balms and body butters. It is useful as a hot oil treatment to condition the hair. I purchase this from Shea Terra Organics, Inc., a supplier that buys oils and butters directly from African cooperatives.

Chocolate

Chocolate itself is a newer arrival onto the skin and hair-care scene. Chocolate is derived from the same parts of the cacao tree, but is processed adding in other ingredients, such as milk, which is also good for the hair and skin. This derivative of the cocoa pod contains flavonoids called catechins—very effective antioxidants. Dark chocolate, which has hardly any sugar, is preferred for health benefits taken internally or applied externally in a spa treatment or hair-care formula. Dark chocolate has 35 percent more of the brown paste of ground cocoa beans than other chocolate so it is a concentrated formula. Lactose acid in milk has been shown to help deter wrinkles as well as smooth and refine skin texture.

For hair, lactose acts as a good humectant that helps curly tops retain moisturizer. The protein in chocolate is boosted by the milk, making it good for “natural” (without chemical relaxers or permanent colorants) hair.

Antioxidant Benefits

Many of you are already familiar with the health benefits of green tea, and you may have noticed that it’s showing up in a growing number of hair and skin-care products. You might not be familiar with the fact that cocoa has more flavanoids, which means you are gaining a huge antioxidant boost from cacao-imbued products. In fact, chocolate may well be the best available source of flavanoid to use as a dietary ingredient, so just think of what that could do for your hair and skin.

What’s So Good In Chocolate?

Nutrients in chocolate include:

• Protein
• Riboflavin
• Vitamin A
• Thiamine

The minerals:

• Potassium
• Calcium
• Iron
• Phosphorous
• Copper
• Magnesium

Chocolate and Community

There are a wide variety of botanical-based beauty products containing cocoa butter and chocolate available in spas, salons and shops. As I mentioned, cacao is a huge economic boon to some countries. Unfortunately, the way that wealth is distributed is not always fair. It is best to buy chocolate products involved with fair-trade programs. Otherwise you may be supporting child labor or even the slavery industry, which has cropped up in parts of Africa around the chocolate industry. No organic chocolate products have been indicated in such activities, so you’re safe buying organic chocolate, cocoa butter and cacao health and beauty products.

Products containing ingredients from the cacao tree:

Oyin Handmade Burnt Sugar Pomade
Oyin Handmade Grand Poo Bar
Oyin Handmade Whipped Pudding
Wild Woozle Tiare Pommade
Curl Junkie Guava & Protein Curl Creme
Curl Junkie Hibiscus & Banana Honey Butta Leave-in Conditioner
Curl Junkie Hibiscus & Banana Honey Creme Leave-in Conditioner
Jessicurl Weekly Deep Conditioning Treatment
Miss Jessie’s Baby Buttercreme
Miss Jessie’s Curly Buttercreme
Circle of Friends Niklas & Heidi’s Yodel-Ay-He Chocolate Shampoo
Carole’s Daughter Hair Milk
Carole’s Daughter Khoret Amen Shea Butter Hair Smoothie
Carole’s Daughter Tui Shea Butter Hair Smoothie
Carole’s Daughter Hair Balm
Carole’s Daughter Healthy Hair Butter
Somerset Toiletry Co. Cocoa Butter Intensive Hair Conditioner
Philip B. Chocolate Milk Body Wash
Hairlox Cocoa Butter All-Purpose Cream
African Vision Shea Butter Daily Hair Cream

Sunflowers are a special flower in the Midwest and they are the state flower of Kansas. They grow quite freely alongside highways, beautify waste dumps, add color to fields and grace our gardens. Wherever their seeds blow, sunflowers take root. But their beauty is more than skin deep. The extract, oil and butter from these flowers are being used in a growing number of beauty products because of their moisturizing, smoothing and healing qualities.

As a sun-loving culture, the ancient Egyptians would have loved this plant. The plant’s name tells us why: helios means sun while anthos means flower in Greek. The French word for it is tournesol. or “turn with the sun” which, is precisely what it does. The plant is called phototropic meaning that it follows the sun. This is a flower intimately tied to the sun, and it can brighten you life in several key ways.

Sunflowers have a venerable history in American healing. The Native-American medicine people from various groups make use of sunflowers as poultices, skin washes as well as eating the seeds and working with the stalks to make life-preserving floats. Spiritually, bowls of the seeds are left on the graves of loved ones by some cultures.

Not limited to North America, today sunflowers are grown in the sunny climate of South Africa to create substantial flower-yielding medicinal oil from its seeds. South African sunflowers are known to be rich in unsaturated fatty acids.

General info

• Light taste and color, making it good for soapmaking and cosmetic blends
• Abundance of vitamin E more than any other vegetable oil.
• Monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats with low saturated fat levels.
• Outstanding for cooking (stir frying also as a healthy salad oil)
• Rich in unsaturated fatty acids

Chemical Constituents

Palmitic acid : 4 - 9%,Stearic acid : 1 - 7%,Oleic acid : 14 - 40%,Linoleic acid : 48 – 74Contains: lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids and waxes

Why it’s in Your Hair and Skin-care Products

Sunflower oil is an unsung hero in a marketplace saturated with oils. It has many healing applications, including herbal infusion used in massage and hot-oil treatments; nail soaks; cooking, salad dressings, marinades and formulating homemade cosmetics.High linoleic acid lends an anti-inflammatory, acne-reducing, moisturizing quality. Linoleic acid acts as an emulsifier in shampoo, soaps, and conditioners.Sunflower oil contains vitamin A, D, and E and a good amount of protein for skin and hair; it’s a high-quality source of zinc (protein is very good for most types of hair, vitamin E is a great antioxidant and zinc is protective against the sun’s rays).

• Low saturated fat levels.
• Has skin and hair smoothing properties—a boon to curly tops.
• Skin and hair benefits from moisture-retention quality.
• Considered hypoallergenic; making it safe for most skin types.
• Healthy addition to anti-aging, wrinkle formulas.
• It’s inexpensive and widely available.
• Helps boost the immune system.

Unique Attributes of Sunflower Oil

• Has cardiovascular benefits: appears to lower cholesterol which, in turn, results in a smaller risk of heart disease.
• Studies of adults suggested that a balanced diet in which small quantities of saturated fats are replaced with sunflower oil has detectable cholesterol-reducing benefits.
• Shown to benefit premature infant with underdeveloped skin who are susceptible to infection; infections decreased by almost half in infants receiving daily skin treatment of sunflower oil.
• Sunflower oil provides a protective barrier against infection in infants.

Kinky, curly or wavy hair can be a blessing and a curse. It is a blessing because it is so versatile and interesting — an attention grabber. But when the curl or wave pattern is left undefined or interacts with humidity or rain, it can turn into an unruly mass. So, we empty our wallets in hot pursuit of the perfect hair care product, especially a finishing project, that will tame our tresses.

Many have found that hair products containing flaxseed oil can give our curls definition and firm, yet touchable, hold.

Flax is an herb that has both external and internal benefits.

When consumed, flaxseed provides a number of health benefits. Flaxseed is something we’ve been hearing a lot about because of the omega 3 enzymes it contains. According to the American Heart Association, omega 3 fatty acids help the heart of healthy individuals with high risk factors for coronary heart disorders[1]. The FDA gives omega-3’s qualified support saying, “supportive but not conclusive research shows that consumption of EPA and DHA omega-3 fatty acids may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease. Some parents of autistic children use the oil successfully to alleviate some of the symptoms of that disorder; and it has also been used with people who have bipolar disorder and schizophrenia with success because it effects neurotransmitters in the brain.

While the oil help prevent and treat all types of ills, the seed can be processed into a curl-friendly gel. The fact that it is as useful taken internally as externally is remarkable, something you don’t run into often. Let’s take a look at this herb to see where it comes from; what it is and why its uses are so plentiful in hair care and elsewhere for our health.

History

I have seen a few health writers refer to flax seed oil as a newer ingredient, but flax actually is one of the oldest cultivated plants on earth. Linneaus, a Swedish botanist, placed flax in the Linaceae family. He named it partially after himself and partly for its practicality as “most useful plant,” which is Linum usitatissimum in the botanical Latin.

Folklore and Mythology

In folk medicine, we see a crossover into herbalist recommendations for flaxseed. For example, it is used in folk medicine to treat colds and constipation. In addition, in folklore flaxseeds are used as well as for digestive, urinary tract problems, gallstones and lung diseases.

Flax has a rich history in Europe. In Teutonic myth, flax flowers were thought to act as protective devices, shielding its users from Queen Hulda’s sorcery. Flaxseeds are also used in luck and fertility rites.

Herbal Uses

As I have mentioned, flaxseed has a venerable history as a healer in Europe. One of the earliest healers, Dioscorides of Greece, championed flaxseed to ease inflammation. He also developed a poultice made from flaxseed, honey and figs in the first century A.D., suggesting it was a good preventative and treatment of sunburn.

The 17th century English herbalist Nicholas Culpeper suggested boiling the seed in water and applying it as a poultice to soothe pain and ease symptoms of colds, tumors and swelling. Blended with fig, it was used by Culpeper’s followers to treat boils and other skin disorders.

Today, herbalists still hold fast to suggestions by herbalists from days of old recommending flaxseed for treating constipation, gastritis, pharyngitis, colds, and hardening of the arteries and rheumatoid arthritis. Exterior wounds, burns, boils, abscesses and ulcers are also treated with flaxseed.

Creative Uses

Flax has been used for food, fabric (linen) in housing and in the arts. The seed has been called linseed in the past and today it is known more popularly as flaxseed. It is easy to remember each by its use: flaxseed oil is the health grade for consumption and health and beauty, whereas linseed oil is more commercial grade and not for internal use. It is used more in the arts and crafts.

Oil painters use linseed oil. The oil is used to add flexibility and sheen to oil paints. As its name indicates, the floor covering “linoleum” is created from solidified linseed oil. Linseed oil is used in furniture production, staining and preservation. This oil also is used in the printmaking process. By-products of linseed production are used in animal feed.

Phytochemicals within Flaxseed

Flaxseeds are beady, small and dark brown — the shape of long grain rice but only half the size. The oil is yellowish to a deep yellow (as it ages), with only the faintest nutty scent. Phytochemicals within the seed vary. Scientists in Canada, is leading grower, studied the seeds scientifically and found that on average the oil is about 43 percent protein.

The oil is over half a-linolenic acid (ALA), an essential fatty acid. Its fiber contains high levels of lignan. The gums and mucilage present in the flaxseed may have beneficial effects. Folk healers may not have been terribly far off in the projections and uses of flax. It turns out that the interesting combination of chemical qualities of flaxseed makes it rich with curative properties in the future. including use in the treatment of high cholesterol, lupus and rheumatoid arthritis, malaria and even cancer.

The lignans in particular within flaxseed have an anti-tumor, anti-viral and enzyme inhibiting function when incorporated in the daily diet. Many of us are consuming flaxseed oil by the tablespoon, but breads and cereals with flaxseeds or flax flour — along with a generally high-fiber diet — are very promising in the reduction of cancerous tumors. High cholesterol, a problem that can lead to coronary heart disease, shows a positive reduction through the use of flaxseed. Flaxseed is rich in mucilage. It is the same mucilage that we gain from the seeds to use as hair gel that also is useful in reducing LDL cholesterol.

Using Flaxseed in your Diet

To benefit from flaxseed’s fiber, trace vitamins, minerals, amino acids, omega-3 and lignin, take two tablespoons, which contains 70 calories. Buy organic flaxseed or cold pressed flaxseed oil.

When you buy it as whole seed, grind in a mortar and pestle or with a coffee-bean grinder until fine. Store ground and whole seeds, as well as the oil, in the fridge. To use:

Sprinkle 2 tablespoons on salads, main dishes or add to smoothies, fresh juices, shakes or hot cereal. Take flaxseed oil orally by the teaspoon (1-2 per day) or add it to salad dressing.

Brewing flaxseed tea makes a very effective, dependable remedy for irregularity.

Flaxseed Hair Care

You can make a reliable hair styling gel quite easily from flaxseeds because they release so much mucilage, a type of natural gel, when cooked. The mucilage is gelatinous and tan colored when first created. But don’t let that put you off using it. It is wonderful when applied to the hair. Your hair will not get dry or feel hard nor will you have flakiness or be susceptible to dandruff after using it.

Summary

Flax is one of those plants that is familiar in a variety of ways. Today flax is all the more available to us as a ready-to-use oil or as a very practical natural ingredient for our hair.

• Jessicurl Gelebration Spray
• Jessicurl Rockin’ Ringlets
• John Masters Organics Citrus & Neroli Detangler
• Oyin Frank Juice
• Oyin Greg Juice
• Oyin Juices & Berries
• Oyin Shine & Define Styling Serum
• Mia Simone’s Boutique Aloe Vera Herbal Leave-in Treatment
• Aveda Hang Straight
• Aveda Confixor
• Aveda Flax Seed Aloe Strong Hold Gel
• Aura Flax Seed Aloe Sculpting Gel
• Bain de Terre Infinite Hold Flax Seed Firm Finishing Spray

Or Make Your Own!

Flaxseed Styling Gel

This natural gel doesn’t get flaky once or dry out hair nor does it encourage dandruff. It is easy to make and use, adding volume and leaving a subtle sheen. Beautifully scented essential oils add a citrus/floral scent to this blend. If you have allergies or sensitivity to scents you can skip the essential oils. This recipe can be created for a fraction of the price of commercial hair gel.

1-teaspoon whole, fresh flaxseeds
¾ cup water
¼ cup grain alcohol or vodka
8 drops each: geranium, lemongrass and neroli essential oils

Add the flaxseed to the water in pot; bring to a boil. Stir. Reduce heat to medium and simmer 10 more minutes then remove from heat. Let cool about 30 minutes. Strain through a sieve or coffee filter over a non-reactive bowl. Whisk vodka or grain alcohol and essential oils into the bowl. Cover and thicken overnight, or about eight hours.

Apply natural gel to freshly washed hair divided into small sections. It will help define curls and hold hair into smooth updos and chignons, or you can use it as you would a commercial setting lotion.

Resources

1) A couple of good online essential oil suppliers are: 100 Pure Essential Oils and Liberty Natural (which requires a $50 minimum). Liberty Natural Products also sells bottles, jars, absolutes, flaxseed and many other natural ingredients so it is easy to accrue their minimum.

2) Wholesale Supplies Plus sells flaxseed, sells bottles, jars, funnels and labels.