The Natural Advocate

Almost overnight, pomegranate is appearing everywhere.

The pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) , is because it is being touted as a miracle food. Curly tops may have noticed that it now is a key ingredient in beauty products, including shampoos and conditioners. Are you wondering why this gorgeous, deep red, seed-heavy food – once found only in potpourri – now is inundating our pantries and bathroom cabinets? Then read on.

Contrary to popular belief, the pomegranate is not a fruit but the berry of an African and Asian tree called Punica granatum. Its original Latin name, “arbor punica,” means “Carthaginian tree” because Romans first encountered large groves of pomegranate trees growing in North Africa’s famed city of Carthage. Rome waged war with Carthage, and they were named the Punic Wars. Punic is a root word evident in its Latin etymology as well as the description of its chemical constituents. Its other Latin names are malum punicum (Carthaginian apple) and malum granatum (seedy fruit). Pomegranate gained notoriety in ancient Carthage, quickly spreading at the hands of the Romans to the Mediterranean, Middle East and parts of India — all places where they still are enjoyed in local cuisine and folk medicine.

Habit, Growth, Distribution

The pomegranate only has one genus and two species. It is a small tree or shrub growing between 20 and 30 feet high. The pomegranate tree is spiny, with multiple branches, and can live as long as 200 years. Its leaves are about 4 inches long and are and leathery textured. Bold flowers appear on the branch tips, with as many as five to a cluster. The seeds represent more than half of the pomegranate’s body weight.

The trees continue to thrive in tropical Africa and North Africa, the East Indies and Middle East as well as arid regions of Southeast Asia. Pomegranates are commonly planted in Bermuda. The tree was introduced to Latin and North America around 1760. Pomegranate trees prefer a mild, temperate, subtropical climate, yet adapt to regions with cool winters and hot summers. They are grown as far north as Washington D.C.

Berry of Myth and Legend

Pomegranates have such a unique appearance that they have sparked many a myth and legend. Considered an aphrodisiac, the rich red color lends itself to use in love magic.

Although it has recently stormed onto the scene as a super food, it has a long history in health and beauty. It has been used in Africa since at least New Kingdom, Egypt as a medicine and a nourishing food.

North African Medicinal Uses of Pomegranate

In holistic health, it is important not to isolate parts of the plant while disposing of the rest. Many parts of the pomegranate tree are useful, and knowing all of its uses rather than focusing solely on the berry can be helpful in your holistic health regimen.

• Pomegranate tree root bark is anthelmintic (destroys or causes expulsion of parasitic intestinal worms.)
• The tree bark is also a vermifuge (expels worms)
• Root and bark can be extracted to release an astringent solution
• Pomegranate wood is a malleable wood good for carving and is used in crafts
• The rind is especially astringent.
• The dried pulverized rind is used to treat ulcers of the digestive tract.
• It is antidiarrheic (controls diarrhea) and hemostatic (arrests flow of blood or hemmoraging). Revered as a dentifrice (used to cleanse teeth, strengthen the gums and fight plague).
• Rind and flowers yield important dyes used in textiles

Berry (Fruit)

• used to treat leucorrhea and for pectoral troubles
• It is an effective preventative for air borne infections because of its cleansing (diuretic and astringent) actions./li>
• Ripe fruit is used to treat infections of the digestive tract.
• Ink is created from steeped leaves.

Parts of the entire tree are used in tanning and curing leather. The bark contains 10 to 25 percent tannin. Root bark has 28 percent tannin; the leaves 11 percent tannin and fruit rind up to 26 percent tannin. Pomegranate’s leaves, fruit and peel are used for astringent properties and to stop diarrhea. The bark, stem and root contain alkaloids used against tapeworm. Bark leaves and unripe fruit are astringent, halting diarrhea, dysentery, hemorrhages. Leaves, roots, seeds, bark are hypotensive, antispasmodic and anthelmintic. Flower buds are mildly astringent.

Pulverized flower buds are employed for bronchitis. The arils or seed casings are separated from skin. The internal parts — called pith and capillary membrane — are removed and the seed is consumed raw. The taste is widely varied from sweet to tangy to sour The seed shows uterine relaxing activity and estrogenic effect.

Benefits of Various Pomegranate Preparations

This is the best way to consume it because of the high concentration and lack of sugar, which provide greater healthy benefits.

Pomegranate juice is a popular drink in the Middle East, especially with Persian (Iranian) and Indian cuisine. A 100 ml-serving of the juice provides 16 percent of the daily adult requirement of vitamin C. It is also a good source of pantothenic acid, potassium and antioxidant polyphenols.

A stable and effective way for kitchen-cosmetic makers and large scaled beauty product designers to utilized pomegranate’s benefits is through the oil. Certified organic Pomegranate Oil is usually cold pressed, thus it is unrefined. Oil can be used to make handmade shampoo bar, soap, pomades and more. Antioxidants contained in pomegranate oil are fight aging by stimulating cell regeneration, increasing elasticity and decreasing visible signs of aging, such as wrinkles. The botanical oil nourishes and fortifies the outer epidermal layer of the skin, making it a beloved skin treatment for everyone from maturing people to children or teens prone to skin eruption and irritation. Dry and cracked skin, such as that found at the heels or elbows during winter, can benefit from pomegranate oil. Serious skins disorders, such as eczema and psoriasis, also benefit from pomegranate oil.

Pomegranate and Beauty

Pomegranate oil is preferred for hot oil treatments or pre-shampoo soothing for frizzy, over-processed hair and for general conditioning for kinky, curly and wavy hair. Pomegranate oil will enhance the appearance and feel of hair, help with detangling and will moisturize the hair shaft.

Pomegranate oil is a boon to those with distressed fingernails and cuticles. It can be applied warm as a rub or as a manicure soak. This oil can greatly benefit those who have just removed gel nails because it repairs damage.

Loaded with Vitamins

Vitamin C: 100 ml of the juice provides 16 percent of the daily adult requirement of vitamin C.

Pantothenic acid: Also known as vitamin B5. This vitamin has been highly touted in hair and skin products, and has been used as a supplement for years. It is one of the B complex thought to reduce visible signs and symptoms of stress, including depression or prematurely graying, thinning and dry hair, skin and nails. Vitamin B5 plays an important role in the secretion of cortisone, which supports the adrenal gland. These hormones assist the metabolism, help deter allergies benefit appearance and improve the feel of hair, nails and skin, as well as the performance of muscles and nerves.

Ellagic acid: Ellagic acid once hydrolyzed helps a substance absorb more easily into the hair, skin, nails and other parts of the body. Ellagic acid in pomegranate is responsible for its ability to be absorbed easily, without any greasiness.

Punicalagins: Punicalagins are tannic acids that lend antioxidant power and emollient qualities, benefitting the appearance and feel, condition of the hair, skin and nails. These acids are responsible for reduction of oxidation and stress on hair and skin when using pure pomegranate-rich products.

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Beauty Products Containing Pomegranate

Curl Junkie Coffee-Coco Curl Creme
Curl Junkie Guava & Protein Curl Creme
Curl Junkie Olive Pomade
Fresh Pomegranate Conditioning Hair Rinse
Klorane Pomegranate Hair Repair Balm
Klorane Beautifying Shampoo with Pomegranate Extract Burt’s Bees Pomegranate and Soy Very Volumizing Shampoo and Conditioner
Back to Basics Pomegranate Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner New York Soap Company Pomegranate Shampoo Nature’s Gate
Pomegranate Sunflower Skin Defense Lotion.

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About the author: Stephanie Rose Bird is an herbalist and aromatherapist. She is also author of “Four Seasons of Mojo: an Herbal Guide to Natural Living” and soon-to-be released book on the spirituality of Africans and trees.

The cacao tree is as beautiful and intriguing as it is useful. One of the top economic botanical plants, Theombroma cacaos pods yield cocoa butter, cocoa powder and that confection we desire most of all during February: chocolate.

Savoring the numerous health benefits of chocolate is a nourishing treat for skin and hair—adding shine, vibrancy and improving the general health of both. By using chocolate and cocoa butter products on your hair and skin, you get to enjoy the delightful chocolaty aroma and reap the benefits of antioxidants, vitamin and mineral, while skipping the fear and guilt of overindulging this February 14th.

The Theobroma Cacao tree grows in the tropical rainforests of Central America and Africa (particularly Ghana), where it makes a significant impact on the local economy. The tree is a remarkable sight. It has dark brown bark, resembling the color of chocolate. White flowers grow directly from the branches and trunk of the tree. The delicate, light-colored blossoms create a sharp visual contrast against the deeply colored, rough-looking bark. In fact, the cacao tree is one of the more unusual trees that I’ve seen. The scent emitted by the trees is subtle—not the rich chocolate aroma you might expect.

The part of Theobroma Cacao used in most in natural beauty products is also edible, derived from the processed beans. This article examines cocoa butter and its benefits for the hair and skin. Then we’ll focus on the tree’s other gift: chocolate.

Cocoa Butter

Cocoa butter is created from hydraulic pressings of the cocoa nib or cocoa mass from cocoa beans, which are further refined through filtering or centrifuge. The scent of cocoa butter is removed using steam or a vacuum. Some herbalists massage therapists and aromatherapists prefer the scentless substance called deodorized cocoa butter.

Cocoa beans are 15 percent fat. Cocoa butter has been traditionally used as a skin softener, emollient, belly rub and soothing substance for burns. The oil is a very attractive as an ingredient in herbal cosmetics. It is useful as a superfatting[1] agent in soap. Oils and fats have different saponification value—”SAP values”—which is the amount that it will take to fully saponify 1 oz. of that oil. Because of this, each fat requires a different amount of lye to convert the fat to soap. Cocoa butter has a SAP value of 0.137.

Cocoa butter is a useful ingredient for vegans (those who prefer no animal products including beeswax) since cocoa butter is a serviceable hardener, thickener and counterbalance to stickier ingredients like shea butter. An additional contribution of cocoa butter is that no solvents are involved in its manufacture; it is a human food-grade, edible ingredient. The edible aspect is appealing to those who desire wholesome, nurturing ingredients in homemade potions, creams and healing balms. Cocoa butter is widely available, ships well, is reasonably priced and has a shelf life of two to five years.

The high stearic composition allows cocoa butter to increase the hardness in handmade soaps and healing balms. In a pinch, I have substituted it for bees ax with good results. It can also be used as base oil in soap-making. When used this way, it is best combined with other oils, such as coconut oil, to produce a lather. The addition of tropical oils—coconut, palm or almond oil—also helps create a looser healing balm or salve that melts faster.

A hard soap, containing large concentrations of cocoa butter lasts for a long time in the bath. Cocoa butter-enriched soap will also hold intricate patterns of elaborate molds.

One of my favorite ways to use cocoa butter is simply to hold a small chunk of the butter in my hand as I run hot water in the bathtub. The cocoa butter melts and acts as a skin softener in the bath. After the bath, particularly during winter, I find cocoa butter useful on rough skin areas. I apply it nightly to my heels after a bath and then promptly put on cotton socks for an evening of foot softening. This also works well on calloused hands.

Sunflowers are a special flower in the Midwest and they are the state flower of Kansas. They grow quite freely alongside highways, beautify waste dumps, add color to fields and grace our gardens. Wherever their seeds blow, sunflowers take root. But their beauty is more than skin deep. The extract, oil and butter from these flowers are being used in a growing number of beauty products because of their moisturizing, smoothing and healing qualities.

As a sun-loving culture, the ancient Egyptians would have loved this plant. The plant’s name tells us why: helios means sun while anthos means flower in Greek. The French word for it is tournesol. or “turn with the sun” which, is precisely what it does. The plant is called phototropic meaning that it follows the sun. This is a flower intimately tied to the sun, and it can brighten you life in several key ways.

Sunflowers have a venerable history in American healing. The Native-American medicine people from various groups make use of sunflowers as poultices, skin washes as well as eating the seeds and working with the stalks to make life-preserving floats. Spiritually, bowls of the seeds are left on the graves of loved ones by some cultures.

Not limited to North America, today sunflowers are grown in the sunny climate of South Africa to create substantial flower-yielding medicinal oil from its seeds. South African sunflowers are known to be rich in unsaturated fatty acids.

General info

• Light taste and color, making it good for soapmaking and cosmetic blends
• Abundance of vitamin E more than any other vegetable oil.
• Monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats with low saturated fat levels.
• Outstanding for cooking (stir frying also as a healthy salad oil)
• Rich in unsaturated fatty acids

Chemical Constituents

Palmitic acid : 4 – 9%,Stearic acid : 1 – 7%,Oleic acid : 14 – 40%,Linoleic acid : 48 – 74Contains: lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids and waxes

Why it’s in Your Hair and Skin-care Products

Sunflower oil is an unsung hero in a marketplace saturated with oils. It has many healing applications, including herbal infusion used in massage and hot-oil treatments; nail soaks; cooking, salad dressings, marinades and formulating homemade cosmetics.High linoleic acid lends an anti-inflammatory, acne-reducing, moisturizing quality. Linoleic acid acts as an emulsifier in shampoo, soaps, and conditioners.Sunflower oil contains vitamin A, D, and E and a good amount of protein for skin and hair; it’s a high-quality source of zinc (protein is very good for most types of hair, vitamin E is a great antioxidant and zinc is protective against the sun’s rays).

• Low saturated fat levels.
• Has skin and hair smoothing properties—a boon to curly tops.
• Skin and hair benefits from moisture-retention quality.
• Considered hypoallergenic; making it safe for most skin types.
• Healthy addition to anti-aging, wrinkle formulas.
• It’s inexpensive and widely available.
• Helps boost the immune system.

Unique Attributes of Sunflower Oil

• Has cardiovascular benefits: appears to lower cholesterol which, in turn, results in a smaller risk of heart disease.
• Studies of adults suggested that a balanced diet in which small quantities of saturated fats are replaced with sunflower oil has detectable cholesterol-reducing benefits.
• Shown to benefit premature infant with underdeveloped skin who are susceptible to infection; infections decreased by almost half in infants receiving daily skin treatment of sunflower oil.
• Sunflower oil provides a protective barrier against infection in infants.

Kinky, curly or wavy hair can be a blessing and a curse. It is a blessing because it is so versatile and interesting — an attention grabber. But when the curl or wave pattern is left undefined or interacts with humidity or rain, it can turn into an unruly mass. So, we empty our wallets in hot pursuit of the perfect hair care product, especially a finishing project, that will tame our tresses.

Many have found that hair products containing flaxseed oil can give our curls definition and firm, yet touchable, hold.

Flax is an herb that has both external and internal benefits.

When consumed, flaxseed provides a number of health benefits. Flaxseed is something we’ve been hearing a lot about because of the omega 3 enzymes it contains. According to the American Heart Association, omega 3 fatty acids help the heart of healthy individuals with high risk factors for coronary heart disorders[1]. The FDA gives omega-3’s qualified support saying, “supportive but not conclusive research shows that consumption of EPA and DHA omega-3 fatty acids may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease. Some parents of autistic children use the oil successfully to alleviate some of the symptoms of that disorder; and it has also been used with people who have bipolar disorder and schizophrenia with success because it effects neurotransmitters in the brain.

While the oil help prevent and treat all types of ills, the seed can be processed into a curl-friendly gel. The fact that it is as useful taken internally as externally is remarkable, something you don’t run into often. Let’s take a look at this herb to see where it comes from; what it is and why its uses are so plentiful in hair care and elsewhere for our health.

History

I have seen a few health writers refer to flax seed oil as a newer ingredient, but flax actually is one of the oldest cultivated plants on earth. Linneaus, a Swedish botanist, placed flax in the Linaceae family. He named it partially after himself and partly for its practicality as “most useful plant,” which is Linum usitatissimum in the botanical Latin.

Folklore and Mythology

In folk medicine, we see a crossover into herbalist recommendations for flaxseed. For example, it is used in folk medicine to treat colds and constipation. In addition, in folklore flaxseeds are used as well as for digestive, urinary tract problems, gallstones and lung diseases.

Flax has a rich history in Europe. In Teutonic myth, flax flowers were thought to act as protective devices, shielding its users from Queen Hulda’s sorcery. Flaxseeds are also used in luck and fertility rites.

Herbal Uses

As I have mentioned, flaxseed has a venerable history as a healer in Europe. One of the earliest healers, Dioscorides of Greece, championed flaxseed to ease inflammation. He also developed a poultice made from flaxseed, honey and figs in the first century A.D., suggesting it was a good preventative and treatment of sunburn.

The 17th century English herbalist Nicholas Culpeper suggested boiling the seed in water and applying it as a poultice to soothe pain and ease symptoms of colds, tumors and swelling. Blended with fig, it was used by Culpeper’s followers to treat boils and other skin disorders.

Today, herbalists still hold fast to suggestions by herbalists from days of old recommending flaxseed for treating constipation, gastritis, pharyngitis, colds, and hardening of the arteries and rheumatoid arthritis. Exterior wounds, burns, boils, abscesses and ulcers are also treated with flaxseed.

Creative Uses

Flax has been used for food, fabric (linen) in housing and in the arts. The seed has been called linseed in the past and today it is known more popularly as flaxseed. It is easy to remember each by its use: flaxseed oil is the health grade for consumption and health and beauty, whereas linseed oil is more commercial grade and not for internal use. It is used more in the arts and crafts.

Oil painters use linseed oil. The oil is used to add flexibility and sheen to oil paints. As its name indicates, the floor covering “linoleum” is created from solidified linseed oil. Linseed oil is used in furniture production, staining and preservation. This oil also is used in the printmaking process. By-products of linseed production are used in animal feed.

Phytochemicals within Flaxseed

Flaxseeds are beady, small and dark brown — the shape of long grain rice but only half the size. The oil is yellowish to a deep yellow (as it ages), with only the faintest nutty scent. Phytochemicals within the seed vary. Scientists in Canada, is leading grower, studied the seeds scientifically and found that on average the oil is about 43 percent protein.

The oil is over half a-linolenic acid (ALA), an essential fatty acid. Its fiber contains high levels of lignan. The gums and mucilage present in the flaxseed may have beneficial effects. Folk healers may not have been terribly far off in the projections and uses of flax. It turns out that the interesting combination of chemical qualities of flaxseed makes it rich with curative properties in the future. including use in the treatment of high cholesterol, lupus and rheumatoid arthritis, malaria and even cancer.

The lignans in particular within flaxseed have an anti-tumor, anti-viral and enzyme inhibiting function when incorporated in the daily diet. Many of us are consuming flaxseed oil by the tablespoon, but breads and cereals with flaxseeds or flax flour — along with a generally high-fiber diet — are very promising in the reduction of cancerous tumors. High cholesterol, a problem that can lead to coronary heart disease, shows a positive reduction through the use of flaxseed. Flaxseed is rich in mucilage. It is the same mucilage that we gain from the seeds to use as hair gel that also is useful in reducing LDL cholesterol.

Using Flaxseed in your Diet

To benefit from flaxseed’s fiber, trace vitamins, minerals, amino acids, omega-3 and lignin, take two tablespoons, which contains 70 calories. Buy organic flaxseed or cold pressed flaxseed oil.

When you buy it as whole seed, grind in a mortar and pestle or with a coffee-bean grinder until fine. Store ground and whole seeds, as well as the oil, in the fridge. To use:

Sprinkle 2 tablespoons on salads, main dishes or add to smoothies, fresh juices, shakes or hot cereal. Take flaxseed oil orally by the teaspoon (1-2 per day) or add it to salad dressing.

Brewing flaxseed tea makes a very effective, dependable remedy for irregularity.

Flaxseed Hair Care

You can make a reliable hair styling gel quite easily from flaxseeds because they release so much mucilage, a type of natural gel, when cooked. The mucilage is gelatinous and tan colored when first created. But don’t let that put you off using it. It is wonderful when applied to the hair. Your hair will not get dry or feel hard nor will you have flakiness or be susceptible to dandruff after using it.

Summary

Flax is one of those plants that is familiar in a variety of ways. Today flax is all the more available to us as a ready-to-use oil or as a very practical natural ingredient for our hair.

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Commercial Flax Hair-Care ProductsFor those desiring the ease of a ready-made product, the following products contain flaxseed:

• Jessicurl Gelebration Spray
• Jessicurl Rockin’ Ringlets
• John Masters Organics Citrus & Neroli Detangler
• Oyin Frank Juice
• Oyin Greg Juice
• Oyin Juices & Berries
• Oyin Shine & Define Styling Serum
• Mia Simone’s Boutique Aloe Vera Herbal Leave-in Treatment
• Aveda Hang Straight
• Aveda Confixor
• Aveda Flax Seed Aloe Strong Hold Gel
• Aura Flax Seed Aloe Sculpting Gel
• Bain de Terre Infinite Hold Flax Seed Firm Finishing Spray

Or Make Your Own!

Flaxseed Styling Gel

This natural gel doesn’t get flaky once or dry out hair nor does it encourage dandruff. It is easy to make and use, adding volume and leaving a subtle sheen. Beautifully scented essential oils add a citrus/floral scent to this blend. If you have allergies or sensitivity to scents you can skip the essential oils. This recipe can be created for a fraction of the price of commercial hair gel.

1-teaspoon whole, fresh flaxseeds
¾ cup water
¼ cup grain alcohol or vodka
8 drops each: geranium, lemongrass and neroli essential oils

Add the flaxseed to the water in pot; bring to a boil. Stir. Reduce heat to medium and simmer 10 more minutes then remove from heat. Let cool about 30 minutes. Strain through a sieve or coffee filter over a non-reactive bowl. Whisk vodka or grain alcohol and essential oils into the bowl. Cover and thicken overnight, or about eight hours.

Apply natural gel to freshly washed hair divided into small sections. It will help define curls and hold hair into smooth updos and chignons, or you can use it as you would a commercial setting lotion.

Resources

1) A couple of good online essential oil suppliers are: 100 Pure Essential Oils and Liberty Natural (which requires a $50 minimum). Liberty Natural Products also sells bottles, jars, absolutes, flaxseed and many other natural ingredients so it is easy to accrue their minimum.

2) Wholesale Supplies Plus sells flaxseed, sells bottles, jars, funnels and labels.

The sea is calming and exhilarating at the same time. It is one of the Earth’s most spectacular natural features. Whether you’re swimming, basking on the beach or taking a brisk walk along the shore, being near the ocean makes us feel healthier, both mentally and physically.

The same can be said about hair and skin-care products that contain one of the ocean’s most important elements: seaweed.

I enjoy products that I formulate using sea kelp, a type of seaweed. I find the smell to be reminiscent of holidays at the seashore. After using bath products containing sea salts and seaweeds, I leave the tub feeling revitalized, tingly and nourished.

This article will focus on seaweed because it appears in many different hair products. It is definitely something we curly tops should consider adding to our daily beauty regimens.

There are many different types of seaweed. Following is a list of healthful, readily available types of seaweed you might find in hair products:

Kelp (Alaria esculenta)

Kelps include wakame and kombu (Laminara japonica kombo), and are sometimes called bladderwrack. Kelps contain alginic acid, which detoxifies by removing heavy metals, radioactive isotopes from the digestive tract and bones as well as toxins from the hair. Kombu is being investigated for the low breast cancer rate in post-menopausal Japanese women. Evidence suggests it may reduce estrogen, and lower estrogen levels provide less fuel for estrogen-dependent cancers like breast cancer. Kombu contains vitamins A, B, B12, C, and E, which is part of the reason it nourishes the hair. Kelp is added to various foods like sushi and miso soup. It also is wonderful in hydrotherapy. I recommend the dried, cut and sifted kelp as an additive for healing sea salt bath soaks.

Dulse (Rhodymenia palmata)

Dulse is a type of kelp similar to black-strap molasses. Dulse is very high in iron. It also is high in calcium, which is one of the most abundant mineral elements in the body, helping with strength and vitality.

Irish Moss

(Chondrus crispus)

Irish Moss, also called carrageenan, is a stabilizing and gelling agent in many foods, including puddings, soups and ice cream. Today, with the call from consumers for no animal products, and no products that have been tested on animals, it is being used to stabilize shampoos, conditioners, gels and other hair care products. Irish moss is frequently used cosmetically as a hair gel.

Spirulina

Spirulina is blue-green micro-algae containing beta-carotene, an important antioxidant. Its green color is from chlorophyll. Dried, sifted spirulina is added to smoothies, soups and teas by the level teaspoon. It is used in some weight sustaining and weight-loss formulas. In addition to its use in hair-care and skin-care products, Spirulina is used to boost immunity and fight diseases such as cancer, AIDs and diabetes.

Consuming Seaweed

With greater availability of Asian foods, we are blessed with the opportunity to consume more seaweeds, particularly in Japanese dishes such as Miso and maki (Japanese seaweed and rice rolls). Eaten regularly, seaweeds help combat several cancers, including those of the breast, ovaries and uterus. They also help with other feminine concerns, such as mastitis when breastfeeding, irregular menstrual cycles, fibroids and ovarian cysts, infertility, PMS and menopausal problems. It is a good source of calcium for the lactose intolerant. Seaweed also helps regulate the thyroid, which in turn regulates the metabolism, conditioning the digestive system and helping reduce or maintain weight.

Consuming seaweeds helps health and beauty by improving over-all vitality, encouraging healthy cell growth renewal and and improving the hair’s strength, shine and growth because when we are healthy on the inside, it shows on the outside.

Seaweed’s Helpful Qualities: Hair and Skin Care

Hair and Skin Conditioning: emollient, defining and softening curls.
Nourishment: trace mineral supplement, rejuvenating and aphrodisiac.
Preventive: anti-oxidant, anti-toxic, antibacterial and disinfects.
Treatments: pain, nervous conditions burns.
Cell-renewing: cultivaties a healthy scalp

Tips for seaweed as a natural beauty ingredient: Look for dried, cut, sifted, pulverized kelp, or dried Irish Moss. Chlorophyll and some seaweed come in liquid form as well.

Sweet Water Wash

This is an overall cleanser (body wash), and conditioning shampoo. The African sea goddess and god Yemaya-Olokun inspire Sweet Water Wash. It combines sea kelp, Irish moss, perfumed with an ocean fragrance.

1 cup distilled water
½ cup soapwort root
½ cup powdered Irish moss
¼ cup powdered sea kelp
¼ cup coconut milk
¼ cup lavender water
1 teaspoon ocean scent (skin-safe fragrance oil)

Bring distilled water close to a boil. Add soapwort root; reduce heat to low and simmer 30 minutes. Remove from heat and steep an additional 15 minutes; strain through a sieve or coffee filter held over a non-reactive bowl. Return infusion to the pot and bring close to a boil. Add Irish moss, a tablespoon at a time, stirring vigorously with each addition. When finished adding all moss, reduce heat to low. Cover and allow thickening for a half hour. Then strain again.

Whisk together the coconut milk and lavender water. Then continue to whisk add soapwort infusion. Add sea kelp, one tablespoon at a time. until smooth. Then add in ocean scent (available here). To use, wet hair and add a small amount, lather and rinse. Wash the body in the same manner.

Store in sterile, dry, capped bottle with squeeze top, in the refrigerator. (Makes about 10 ounces; shelf life: 1 week).

Irish Moss Hair Gel

This natural gel will not flake or encourage dandruff. It adds body and shine and can be created for a fraction of the price of commercial hair gels.

1 teaspoon Irish moss
¾ cup water
¼ cup grain alcohol or vodka
1 teaspoon essential oil of your choice

Dissolve 1 teaspoon Irish moss in water. Put in pot and bring to a boil. Stir. Reduce heat to medium and simmer 8 more minutes. Then remove from heat. Whisk in vodka and scent. Whisk again. Leave to thicken overnight, or about 8 hours. Apply natural gel to freshly washed hair, divided into small sections. It will help define curls and hold hair into smooth up-dos or chignons. Or you can use it as you would a commercial setting lotion to set your hair in curlers before going under the dryer.

Herbal Sea Soak

This recipe combines the healing properties of Dead Sea salt, seaweeds and a green-blue crisp scent created from a hair-nurturing blend of essential oils.

2 cups Dead Sea Salt
¼ cup cut and sifted kelp
2 tablespoons pulverized dulse
2 tablespoons pulverized Iceland moss
1 tablespoon cut and sifted dried rosemary
1 tablespoon cut and sifted, pulverized dry lavender buds
10 drops Scottish pine essential oil
8 drops lavender essential oil
6 drops juniper essential oil
4 drops vetiver

Place salts, seaweeds and dried herbs in a non-reactive bowl such as Pyrex or stainless steel. In a separate small Pyrex bowl, drop in individual essential oils (from their individual droppers); swirl to mix. Pour oils over salt, seaweed herb mixture. Stir with a stainless steel spoon. Add to a clean, dry glass jar with top. Shake gently each day for two to three weeks. Add one cup to bath. (Makes enough for two baths; shelf life is three months if kept in a cool, dry location).

I’ve often referred to macadamia nut oil as being nearly perfect, and there are many reasons for that.

The nut’s oil is nutritious — a great source of calcium, B complex, phosphorus and iron. It has a shelf life of almost a year and contains 73-80% mono-saturated fat. Macadamia nut oil contains the highest amount of palmitoleic acid (an Omega 7 fatty acid) of any plant. Palmitoleic acid is plentiful in our skin when we are young, but decreases with aging. This acid is believed to help mature skin retain suppleness. Palmitoleic acid also replaces naturally occurring skin on the lips, allowing the skin to remain younger looking.

Macadamia oil reduces wrinkles and dryness. It is a natural moisturizer and emollient (emollients attract and trap moisture from the air). Macadamia oil is light and non-greasy so it is easily absorbed into the hair shaft and skin. Another gift of macadamia nut oil is that it contains proteins, and its vitamin E contributes skin-care benefits and long shelf life. The high count of mono-unsaturated fatty acids makes the oil mimic the sebum (naturally produced oil on scalp and skin which protects it from damage). All of these qualities contribute to its reputation as a superb hair and skin treat, as well as an elixir for healing scars, sunburn, wounds and irritations.

Speaking of skin perfection, macadamia oil is considered one of the best carrier oils available; carrier oils are used along with dilute amounts of essential oils in aromatherapeutic treatments and massage.

As edible treats, the nuts — crunchy, delectable, sweet — are also loaded with benefits. Still considered somewhat rare in most areas, macadamia nuts have a complex and dense flavor that makes us want more. Macadamia nuts originated and still flourish in the rainforests of Southeastern and Northeastern coastal Australia. Although we associate macadamia nuts with Hawaii, the largest orchards are actually in South Africa.

>Distribution

Macadamia trees may have originated in Australia, but today they grow in nearby New Zealand, in the African countries of South Africa, Malawi and Kenya, in South and Central America, Mexico and Israel. In North America, they can be found in Hawaii, California and Florida.

There are generally two types of macadamia nuts : Macadamia integrefolia Maiden & Betche, smooth-shelled nuts, and Macadamia tetraphylla L. Johnson, the rough-shelled nuts. A hybrid of the two also exists.

The tree belongs to the Protaceae family. Of Protaceae’s 10 species, macadamias are the most commercially viable. The trees constantly produce nuts, but they grow at a very slow rate. Demand has exceeded available product making them truly a fragile commodity that should be used with care.

Growth, Habit and Culture

Macadamia trees are majestic, ranging from 30 to 40 feet high. They prefer full, sun, non-windy locations, although partial shade is tolerated in hot climates, They grow in a wide range of soils, from sandy or rocky lava soils to heavy clay soils. The trees prefer rich soil with balanced a pH. Macadamias will not tolerate soil or water with high salt concentrations. In areas with low annual rainfall, macadamias leach the soil regularly. They can survive drought conditions, although it has a negative effect on nut production.

The bark is rough-textured, yet has a consistent, surface (no groves or ridges) and dark reddish brown color. Macadamia trees have thick clusters of rootlets in deliberate rows around the parent root. The roots provide the tree with maximum absorption. Seedlings grow well because of the root constellation.

Macadamia nuts have a very hard seed coat enclosed in a green husk that splits open as the nut matures. The seed coat is smooth in the case of M. integrifolia, containing an off-white kernel that contains approximately 80% oil and 4% sugar. Roasting enhances the color and texture. M. tetraphylla, called rough-shelled macadamia, sometimes has a smooth seed coating or it is rough and pebbled. The oil content of M. tetraphylla ranges from 65 percent to 75 percent; sugar content is from 6 percent to 8 percent.

Harvesting

It is best to wait for the mature macadamia nuts to fall to the ground, which occurs from late fall to spring. Most people, however, harvest the fallen nuts to protect the full crop from damage. A productive tree produces between 30 and 50 pounds of nuts at about 10 years of age, increasing production for years before going into decline.

The nuts must be de-husked with great care and there are generally people who do this as a job. The macadamia nuts are allowed to dry in the sun for several weeks first. Then put into the oven at a very low temperature for about 12 hours and stirred occasionally. Then they are stored in a cool dry place until ready to use.

Suggested Health and Beauty Uses

Macadamia nut oil has even more mono-saturated fats than olive or canola oil. Mono-saturated fats are considered good fats that actually reduce high blood pressure and raw occurrence of heart disease. It also has a very high omego-3 acid count. Omega-3 reduces the risks of arthritis, heart diseases and high blood pressure. Omega-3 also keep cells healthy. The ratio of Omega-3 to Omega-6 is considered important. Macadamia nut oil has more Omega-3 fatty acids than Omega-6 acids, which makes it a healthier choice. Look for cold-pressed oils.

Health and Beauty Recipes

Heat 1 cup of macadamia nut oil for 40 seconds in the microwave. When it is cool to the touch but still warm you can do a hot oil treatment to treat hair and scalp, massage in cleaned dry fingernail cuticles, smooth rough heals and elbows.

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Finding Quality Oil

Look for cold-pressed organic nut oil at shops such as Whole Foods and Wild Oats as well as at local health food stores. Products can be found at better natural spas and salons. Here is a partial list of products to explore containing macadamia nut oil or seed butter.

• MyHoneyChild Type 2 Hair Cream
• Ojon Ultra Hydrating Shampoo
• Ojon Hydrating Thickening Shampoo
• Ojon Ultra Hydrating Conditioner
• Curl Junkie Hibiscus and Banana Deep Fix
• Primavera Macadamia Nut Oil
• Palmolive Naturals Hair RepairShampoo and Conditioner
• Burt’s Bees Cocoa Butter andMacadamia Nut Oil Butter
• Dr. Hauschka Shampoo withMacadamia & Orange
• Alba Plumeria Replenishing Hair Wash
• Al-Al chemy Macadamia and Wheat Protein Conditioner
• Annique Organic Hair Conditioner
• Oils of Aloha
• Maui Island Formulas
• From Nature with Love pure macadamia nut butter
• Mountain Rose Herbs unrefined macadamia nut oil.

I love the avocado in all of its forms. I find an avocado can give a decadent flair to an otherwise bland salad or sandwich, not to mention my affection for guacamole. But it’s also an amazing beauty elixir, especially good for curly hair.This article will systemically explain “everything avocado” — from its origins and history to its growth, distribution and uses — both folk and commercial — in health and beauty products.

As a beginning soap maker and creator of natural products, I have found a 1,001 uses for avocado oil. It is great for super-fatting soap, which means it remains a free, readily available ingredient in soap, unhampered by the cold processed soap-making process. Avocado oil, added at the end of its process (right before pouring into molds), adds emollient and humectant properties. Of course, as a hot-oil treatment, it does much the same for the hair (there is a recipe at the end of this article). The oil can be used for manicures and pedicures as well. Today, avocado butter — another way of processing the oil — has a dense, buttery consistency, making it ideal for creating at-home spa products.

Apart from the oil, the flesh itself can be mashed and prepared into an effective, easy-to-make deep conditioner for damaged or dry hair. I started making soaps and creams about eight years ago. Since then, a plethora of products — especially hair products — have popped onto the market containing avocado.

Avocado Persea Americana

Avocado belongs to the Laurel family; in fact, it is the only significant edible fruit of the laurel family, Lauraceae. It is related to cinnamon, camphor and sassafras.

There are three major botanical classifications for avocado:

Guatemalan Avocado: P. nubigena var. guatemalensis L. Wms.
Mexican avocado: P. Americana Mill. Var. drymifolia Blake
West Indian Avocado: Persea Americana Mill. Var Americana

Many of the nicknames for avocado attest to its lush consistency: vegetable butter, butter pear, Midshipman’s butter. In Spanish, it is called aquacate, cura, cupandra and palta.

History

Avocados flourish in Florida and California. Those U.S. states and Mexico are where we get most of our avocados. But the avocado has been a world traveler.

The avocado probably comes from Southern Mexico, but has been cultivated from the Rio Grande to Peru long before the arrival of European explorers. With the explorers, it was transported to the West Indies, making it to Jamaica by 1696 and many other places in the tropics and subtropics where it grew well. At the end of the 1700s, it was taken to the Philippine Islands. It was established in the Dutch East Indies by the mid 1700s and Mauritius in the late 1700s. The avocado was transported to Singapore around 1835 and India by the late 1800s, growing well around Madras and Bangalore. It was grown in Hawaii in 1825, and was common throughout the Hawaiian Islands by the early 1900s.

Dr. Henry Perrine brought avocado trees to Florida and California in 1833 and 1871 respectively. Propagation began by the late 1800s.

Today the avocado is raised commercially in North and South America as well as Australia and New Zealand. It does especially well on islands, including the Polynesia, the Philippines, Madagascar, Mauritius, Madeira and Canary Islands. It also is grown in many parts of Africa. including Algeria and Egypt, tropical Africa and South Africa. Avocados grow in Europe’s Mediterranean region, including: Southern Spain and Southern France, Sicily and Crete. It also is grown in Palestine and Israel. The five largest exporters of avocados are Mexico, California, Israel, South Africa and Florida.

Growth and Habit

Because of the numerous varieties, avocado trees vary in height, leaf shape and trunk size. They grow on erect trees, 30 to 60 feet high. The tree is remarkably green, although it is not a true evergreen. It only sheds its leaves during dry seasons in the tropical places where it grows. Perhaps the greatest variation is within the leaves, which can be 3-16 inches long The leaves are dark, glossy and forest green on one side and whitish on the other. The shape also varies. The Mexican variety smells like anise (mildly licorice-like). Small, pale-green or yellow-green flowers appear during the blooming season, showing up profusely near the branch tips.

The avocado fruit ranges from 3 to 13 inches long and can be 6 inches wide. The flesh ranges from a yellowish-green to deep-green or very dark-green, reddish-purple, or so dark a purplish black. The tough outer skin has a broad range of appearances. from small yellow speckles to a smooth, pebbly one; glossy or dull; thin or leathery and up to 1/4-inch thick. Right under the skins of some avocados, you’ll find a thin layer of soft, bright-green flesh. But most often, the flesh is consistently pale to rich-yellow, with mildly buttery taste.

One of the more interesting parts of avocado for health and beauty is the seed, which is oblate, round, conical or oval; 2 to 2 1\2 inches long, hard and heavy. An off-white skin is enclosed in a couple of layers papery brown, thin skin. The seed pushes out of the fruit easily.

Avocados begin to ripen when removed from the tree, because of a maturation inhibitor in the stem. Gardeners consider the crop ripe when some of the mature fruits fall to the ground. The largest fruits are generally picked first. Avocados ripen in one to two weeks. It is not advisable to allow the fruits to remain on the tree too long into the season because they will most likely be destroyed by weather conditions.

Nutritious Avocado Oil

Chemically, avocado contains 1.5 to 2.5 percent protein and 13-22 percent oil[1]. Avocado Oil is rich in vitamins A, B, C and E. The amino acid content range is: palmitic, 7.0; stearic, 1.0; oleic, 79.0; linoleic, 13.0.

Avocado oil has a great shelf life (one of the qualities I appreciate the most with herbal formulations). It has been reported to last as long as 12 years when kept at 40ºF. I have found it to be very useful for kinky, curly or wavy hair because of its rich viscosity. Like many tropical oils, it has some ability to filter out rays of the sun, it is non-allergenic and is similar to lanolin in its penetrating and softening abilities.

Because avocado oil is highly humectant and emollient, it draws moisture, which is especially good for hair. A nutritious hair and skin oil, avocado oil contains traces of B complex and iron, phosphorus, varying a range of calcium, and a decent amount of ascorbic acid – a natural preservative. Avocado halves average only 136 to 150 calories. Avocado oil contains a healthy variety of amino acids, saturated fatty acids and lipids. As fatty as it sounds, it is a good type of fat recorded to help reduce (bad) cholesterol in some patients.

Uses:

Avocado Oil

Avocado oil is a very thick, nutritious oil useful for soaking nails, smoothing the feet, elbows and rough skin (a dime-sized amount) applied directly to the area. Oil extracted from the seed has been applied to skin eruptions. (Always choose cold-pressed over other processes for health reasons.)

For hair, it is used in hot-oil treatments and for deep, hair conditioning;

Avocado Skin

The skin is antibiotic and is is used in folk medicine to kill bugs within the body and to treat dysentery.

Avocado Flesh

Avocado pulp can be whipped smooth and applied to face or massaged into the hair for a quick and easy softening, conditioning and moisturizing mask.

The fruit has the highest energy content of any fruit. It is high in its vitamin and mineral content, as well as a good source of mono-unsaturated fat and soluble and insoluble fiber.

In poor areas of the world, it has been coined the “poor man’s butter.”

Leaves

• Avocado leaves produce an oil, estragol, that is used in the cosmetics industry. and also possesses the ability to deter insects.
• The leaves are chewed to treat pyorrhea, a very serious gum disease.
• Leaf poultices are used to treat wounds.
• Heated leaves can be applied to the forehead to relieve headaches.
• The leaf juice contains antibiotics.
• An herbal infusion made from the leaves is used to treat hypertension.
• Avocado leaf infusion is used to treat diarrhea, sore throat, stomachache, hemorrhage as well as irregular menstruation.

Seed

• The powdered seed is used to combat dandruff.
• The seed is cut in pieces, roasted, powdered and used as a diarrhea or dysentery remedy.
• A piece of the seed, or a bit of the decoction, put into a tooth cavity is used in folk medicine to relieve toothache.
• Ointment made of the pulverized seed is rubbed on the face to draw energy to the area, reddening it and working as a natural blusher.

Summary

There is so much goodness in avocado. Thankfully today it is readily available just about anywhere you look. If you have coarse, kinky, naturally curly or wavy hair, run; don’t walk–get yourself an avocado to condition your hair or a hair care product containing a high percentage of organic avocado—an unbelievable, naturally nutritious treat for the hair.

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Products Featuring Avocado

• John Masters Lavender and Avocado Intensive Conditioner
• Ojon Animated Styling Cream
• Ojon Hydrating Styling Cream
• Ojon Ultra Hydrating Shampoo
• Ojon Ultra Hydrating Conditioner
• Ojon Hydrating Thickening Shampoo
• Ojon Hydrating Thickening Conditioner
• Ojon Hydrating Thickening Spray
• MyHoneychild Honey and Horsetail Reconstructor
• MyHoneychild Olive You Deep Conditioner
• Curl Junkie Coco-Milk Conditioner
• Curl Junkie Coffee-Coco Curl Creme
• Curl Junkie Guava Curl Creme
• Curl Junkie Hibiscus & Banana Deep Fix
• Curl JunkieMoisturizing Hair Conditioner
• Curl Junkie Hibiscus & Banana Honey Butta Leave-in Conditioner
• Curl Junkie Healthy Conditioner
• Curl Junkie Hibiscus Bliss Moisturizing Shampoo
• Jessicurl Too Shea! Extra Moisturizing Conditioner
• Jessicurl Weekly Deep Conditioning Treatment
• Kynk Hair Honey
• Arbre de Vie Shea Oil Treatment
• Blended Beauty Natural Hair Oil
• Curl Junkie Curl Rehab Hair Oil
• Jessicurl Oil Blend for Soft Hair
• Hair Rules Nourishment Leave-in Conditioner
• Organic Selections Lemon, Myrtle and Avocado Shampoo
• Burt’s Bees Avocado Pre-Shampoo Treatment

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Avocado Recipes

Avocado Hot-Oil TreatmentWhatever the season, the hair can benefit from a little special treatment beyond the usual shampoo or conditioner. I recommend this dense, hot oil treatment to add shine, strengthen and, if used regularly, lengthen the hair. It has a minty, floral scent provided by the essential oils, which also help condition hair and scalp. Recommended for dry, damaged, color-treated or chemically treated hair.¾ cup avocado oil
1/8 cup safflower oil
1/8 cup sweet almond oil
8 drops lavender; 6 drops lemongrass oil and rosemary; 4 drops geranium (essential oils)Mix fixed oils (first three ingredients) in order given in a non-reactive bowl. Heat 40 seconds in microwave-safe bowl. Using individual droppers, drop in essential oils in order given; swirl to mix. Test on back of wrist to make sure temperature is acceptable (not too hot). Divide hair into small sections; secure with clips or bobby pins. Apply warmed oils to scalp and ends of hair. Massage in. Put on a shower cap or other plastic head wrap. Let oils continue to warm using body heat and sunlight if available for 45 minutes. Shampoo and style as usual.Remainder can be stored in sterile jar for later use as long as you keep it pure (no water). It is okay to double this recipe for longer hair.

Avocado Conditioner

Avocado Conditioner is designed to be made and used immediately. Discard leftovers, use as a facial or share it with someone else to use.

Flesh of a ripe avocado
¼ cup coconut cream
¼ cup coconut water
3 tablespoons mayonnaise containing egg

In medium-sized bowl mix avocado and coconut cream). In very small bowl whisk together coconut water and mayonnaise; use spatula to add this to the first mixture. Whisk all together until smooth. Divide hair into 6-8 segments. Slather green mixture on each segment working all the way into hair, from scalp area to the ends. Put on shower cap or other loose fitting plastic cap. Sit out in the sun if possible or under dryer on medium high setting, if available. Leave on hair for 45 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. Shampoo and style as usual.

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Resources

1) A couple of good online essential oil suppliers are: www.100pureessentialoils.com and www.libertynatural.com. Liberty Natural Products also sells bottles, jars, avocado oil and butter; natural sponges and many other natural ingredients, so it is easy to accrue their minimum.2) Wholesale Supplies Plus sells a base shampoo, conditioner, bubble bath, body butter, lotions and creams to which you can add avocado oil and essential oils. This company also sells bottles, jars, funnels and labels.

3) www.Fromnaturalwithlove.com sells avocado oil and avocado butter as well as pure essential oils. (From Nature With Love)

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[1] Dooley, Puerto Rican Cookbook, 109.

We’ve been hearing a lot about orange blossom oil lately as an additive to hair-care products, and for good reason. This sweet and floral oil, better known as neroli, has been used for everything from revitalizing hair to promoting emotional balance.

The name neroli distinguishes it from orange blossom water, a far less concentrated version than the oil. Both have an outstanding, unusual, sweetly strong scent that many find heavenly. Orange blossom water is very light and used in African and Middle Eastern cooking and in European homemade beauty products.

Neroli, on the other hand, has a lengthy history in perfume beginning centuries ago in Persia (present day Iran), where it was used to perfume royalty and palace walls. Neroli is popular in India, and has slowly been introduced into hair and skin care products in the West because of its numerous health and beauty benefits.

Origins

Neroli, one of the world’s most expensive oils, originated in the Far East and is believed to have been introduced to the Mediterranean by Arab traders. It has intimate ties to both the east and western culture, especially royalty, making its true name origin hard to decipher. It is said that the word Neroli is derived from naranj, which means orange in Arabic or from the Sanskrit word, nagaran.

Thanks to the Moors, the oil made its way further north and further west. Neroli oil was eventually carried into the Mediterranean region. And, by the end of the 12th century, bitter orange trees were being cultivated in Seville, Spain for the production of this highly sought-after essential oil.

The royalty of Europe also lay claims to the word neroli. Some say it is named after the 16th century Princess Anne-Marie of Nerola, wife of Prince Flavio Orsini. She is said to have loved the scent, wearing it frequently, which in turn inspired other aristocratic women and wanna-bes who could afford it to use it as well. Others say it is named after Roman Emperor Nero. Still others claim, 17th century Duchess of Tremoille, known as ‘La Nerola,’ wore it to scent her gloves and calm her nerves. We do know for sure that in European tradition the blossoms were woven into the bride’s bouquet probably for their calming effect. They were woven into the bride’s hair to proclaim her virginity and placed by the honeymoon bed to calm nuptial nerves and assure fertility.

During that period of time, Neroli oil was often used in bath water or as a perfume on stationary and clothing. Its rich, floral scent gained almost instant popularity and was used commercially by J.M. Farina, the famous Italian perfume manufacturer. In 1709, he began selling an essential oil blend of Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon, Petitgrain, Rosemary and Neroli. He called this magical blend “Eau de Cologne”, which is still quite well-known throughout today’s modern world.

The Science of Neroli

The scientific separation between neroli and orange blossom oil is clear. Neroli is steam distilled whereas volatile solvents are used to extract orange blossom oil. Neroli is stronger and longer lasting whereas orange blossom products are lighter and more ephemeral. Neroli essential oil’s origins are in the Far East, but it now is cultivated primarily in Italy, Tunesia, Morroco and Egypt from the steam-distilled blossoms of the bitter orange tree.

Like rose oil, this oil’s valid expense is driven by the enormous amount of blossoms necessary to produce Neroli essential oil. In fact, 1 ton of orange blossoms are required to produce one quart of Neroli oil. Neroli oil is the extracted essential oil of fragrant blossoms from the bitter orange tree. However, before the orange blossoms may be used in the distillation process to produce essential oil, all traces of debris, including green leaves and twigs, must be removed by hand.

There are many different types of hydrosols and essential oils created from various types of orange trees and from specific parts of the tree. The ordinary edible orange, which grows so well in Florida, is Citrus sinesis. An inexpensive essential oil is produced from this tree, but it does not have the same therapeutic benefits as neroli. Orange essential oil from the fruit is usually called just that, and it is used mostly in home cleansing products.

The delicate blossoms, rather than the fruits, are used to create the pale yellow neroli and orange blossom water. Its botanical name is Citrus bigaradia or C. aurantium. Petigrain created from the tree leaves and twigs has more of a spicy scent and it comes from the tree, Citrus aurantium.

Holistic Health Uses

In the East, neroli has long been associated with the second chakra, (the sacral spinal area) in India’s yogic tradition. Yogis and practitioners of Aruyveda admire neroli for its trance and sleep inducing, relaxing qualities. They rub it on the abdomen or sacral area. In Chinese tradition the oil is used to mobilize chi. In the west it is used aromatherapeutically to alleviate depression, soothe anxiety, hysteria and nervous conditions. As a light, refreshing, uplifting fragrance, it is used to alleviate a variety of psychological states including insomnia, anxiety and depression. It is known to help treat diarrhea, and some aromatherapists use it to treat a broad range of menopausal issues.

Neroli oil has been noted to improve varicose veins, skin elasticity and the body’s ability to develop new skin cells, while working to soften the skin, wrinkles and scars. Neroli oil may also be able to regulate oiliness, minimize enlarged pores and clear blemishes, making it good to use on oily skin and hair.

Anti-oxidant properties encourage healthy cell growth allowing neroli to boost and revitalize dull looking hair. Neroli also is helpful in treating many types of dermatitis and scalp irritation. This once-exotic, elite oil is now used by many to calm skin rashes, diminish stretch marks and scars. Neroli is a maturing woman’s best friend, combating wrinkles and conditioning the texture of the skin. It also helps with various manners of the heart as a purportedly effective aphrodisiac, alleviating sexual tension and even as a cardiac tonic.

Recipes

Often people with fresh cornrows, French braids, Senegalese twists, Nubian knots, locs and individual braided extensions experience discomfort (pain) and scalp irritation. The following two neroli astringents can be dabbed on the parts of these styles with a cotton swab to alleviate the transition to braids, locs or twisted hairstyles. These can also be used to cleanse the face before applying a moisturizer. The hair and skin astringent combination works well because often long hair that is braided or twisted hangs in the face releasing unwanted oils onto the skin.

Neroli Astringent #1:

3 ounces orange flower hydrosol
1-ounce witch hazel
1-tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Mix ingredients in a non-reactive bowl. Pour through a small funnel into a 6 ounce bottle. Dab on skin with a cotton square thoroughly cleansing.

Neroli Astringent #2

This is another easy to make astringent. By adding about 8-10 drops neroli to 16 ounces witch hazel in a non-reactive bowl and funneling into a clean, dry bottle. This is immediately ready to use—just shake very gently before use. Apply to the scalp (in the parts) or all over the face, working upward with cotton squares, to cleanse, sooth or calm the nerves.

Anti-wrinkle Mature Skin Oil

To a quarter cup sweet almond or grapeseed oil, add 12 drops neroli
8 drops each: evening primrose oil, carrot seed oil and lavender essential oil.
Swirl to blend. Pour through a funnel into 6 ounce sterilized, dry bottle with screw cap. Dab on face with a cotton ball at night before bedtime.

Alluring Aphrodisiac Oil

1 cup rose-scented sweet almond oil
15 drops neroli
10 drops sandalwood
8 drops rose absolute
In order given, add ingredients to non-reactive bowl. Swirl gently to mix. Using a funnel add to 6 ounce clean, dry, bottle with flip top. Use as a massage or intimate oil.

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• John Masters Organics Citrus and Neroli Detangler
• John Masters Organics Sweet Orange & Silk Protein Styling Gel
• DevaCare One Condition
• DevaCare No-Poo
• Jane Carter Solution Hair Nourishing Cream
• Ojon Shine & Protect Shampoo
• Ojon Shine & Protect Conditioner
• Ojon Leave-in Glossing Cream
• Oyin Handmade Greg Juice
• My HoneyChild Caribbean Hair Activator
• Olive You Scalp Cleanser
• Olive You Deep Conditioner
• Innersense Organic Beauty Harmonic Healing Oil
• Innersense Organic Beauty Blissful Body Butter
• Natura Organics Nourishing Conditioner
• Mandra: Purely Natural Beauty Wheat Protein Conditioner
• Burt’s Bees Royal Jelly Eye Creme
• Burt’s Bees Shea Butter
• Burt’s Bees Healthy Treatment Repair Serum

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Resources

1. A couple of good online essential oil suppliers are: www.100pureessentialoils.com and www.libertynatural.com (which requires a $50 minimum). Liberty Natural Products also sells bottles, jars, absolutes and many other natural ingredients.
2. Wholesale Supplies Plus at www.wholesalesuppliesplus sells a base shampoo, conditioner, bubble bath, body butter, lotions and creams to which you can add neroli or other essential oils quickly producing your own unique products. This company also sells bottles, jars, funnels and labels.
3. One of the better bottle companies is Sun Burst Bottles at www.sunburstbottles.com. They sell jars, a variety of bottles and labels.

Like many of the wild-crafted organic butters and oils I’ve written about, babassu is intimately tied to women, fair trade, tradition and community. Unlike shea butter, babassu has not yet become a household name. But with the benefits of babassu, there are many reasons to give it a try. Because of the health and prosperity it lends it is considered by many, a Tree of Life.

Babassu Origin and Growth

Like ojon and acai, babassu (Orbignya phalerata in Latin) is a type of palm. Babassu palms grow along the southern and northeastern edge of the Brazilian Amazon. Ironically, it flourishes in economically challenged provinces such as Maranhao. Babassu palm also grows in parts of Mexico and Guyana. The trees grow up to 60 feet tall and occupy almost 29 million hectares of forest. In its native areas, it forms the dominant plant coverage.

A Most Useful Palm

Babassu has more than 35 uses, ranging from attracting game to repelling insects. The leaves of babassu palm are used to create thatch-roof housing, woven mats and to construct walls. The stems are strong and woody, lending themselves to usefulness as timbers. Though it may sound foreign to many, it is well-known in the Amazon of Brazil. Most of its value is derived from the seed kernels within the fruits. The fruit resembles small coconuts and grows in bunches, ranging from a few dozen to hundreds. The mature fruit fall from the tree mainly from August to November but continues into January and February, which is the time the rainy season begins.

The seeds contain the oil that is gaining popularity in the hair-care industry, and is being added to shampoos, conditioners and pomades. Babassu forms a protective, soothing coating on the hair shaft, helping hair withstand diverse weather conditions and direct-heat styling tools while also limiting damage to the hair shaft from coloring or other chemical treatments. The oil leaves the skin and hair feeling velvety and supple.

Babassu has superior emollient qualities (emollients draw moisture from the air, making hair and skin a pliable nature and a healthful glow.) This exotic oil is also used for cooking and to make cosmetics such as creams, soaps, shower gels, powders and body butters. Indigenous and other people use babassu oil (where it grows as a native plant) as a moisturizer. The oil is noted for its light feel and the fact that it is easily absorbed into the skin. It is preferable over heavier oils because of its non-greasy application. Surprisingly, it works as well for oily skin as it does for dry skin because it is an adaptable oil.

The seed kernels are cold pressed to produce the oil; the fruits are wild crafted and organic. Cold pressing means pressure is used to extract the oil rather than chemical solvents, which makes this a very wholesome oil.

Babassu Chemistry 101

The oil is very high in essential fatty acids, which makes it ideal oil for skin and hair. Babassu oil is also high in lauric acid. Lauric acid is very low in toxicity, making it a good choice for use in soaps and shampoos. Lauric acid is solid at room temperature and melts on the surface of the skin or scalp. Babassu oil also contains high concentrations of myristic acid. Lauric and myristic acids draw body heat, lending babassu oil what herbalist call coolant and refrigerant qualities. It cools down the skin and scalp, making it useful in the summer or when using heat appliances on the hair.

Babassu contains a significant amount of oleic acid, which is healthful when consumed. Oils with good concentrations of oleic acid are known to lower blood cholesterol. Like most palms, babassu contains palmitic acid. Palmitate is both antioxidant and a vitamin A compound. Palmitic acid is one of the most common saturated fatty acids.

Fair-trade and The Quebradeiras de Coco (Nut Breakers)

In the late ’70s, indigenous people used the babassu palm as a way of defining community. The trees were used to make a stand against loggers and cattle farmers. Loggers were clear cutting babassu palm-rich Amazonian forests as were cattle farmers. The Quebradeiras de Coco are primarily women, and they chanted and performed rituals in the forest to move the loggers and farmers off their trees. Eventually they were successful. Indigenous people in the Maranhao region of Brazil continue to incorporate them into their lives.

Today commercial activity around the babassu palm affects the income of more than 2 million rural Brazilians. Babassu is even used as local currency in some areas. People are allowed to exchange the nuts for goods and services once a week. Women continue to sing, chant and perform ritual around the harvesting and processing of babassu nuts. The women gather and collect the ripened fruit from the ground, placing them in hand-woven baskets. The fruits are gathered and the women crack the nuts open using wooden clubs, sweat and perseverance. Inside the nut is the oil-rich kernel.

Companies such as Aveda and the Body Shop buy the oil directly from indigenous women’s collectives such as COPALJ — which stands for Cooperative of Agro-extractivist Producers. It consists of a dozen communities in the Maranhao area. The collective handles the collection, pressing of the nuts into oil, and selling the product in the international marketplace. Aveda and The Body Shop have done a great deal to bring babassu, and those who harvest and process it, to the attention of the international community.

Fair trade means the indigenous people, and others working with them, are paid fair market value for their product. In order to be considered fair trade by the Fair Trade Labeling Organizations International, a product’s sale has to lead to decent working conditions, local sustainability, respect for the local environment and better prices for rural citizens.

The money generated from the sale of babassu oil helps otherwise severely impoverished areas and families gain a viable income. So buying hair or skin care products featuring babassu help improve the lifestyle and living conditions of many people living in Brazil.

Products Containing Babassu

• Aveda Be Curly Curl Enhancing Lotion
• Aveda Damage Remedy Shampoo, Conditioner and Restructuring Treatment
• Aveda Smooth Infusion Shampoo and Conditioner
• John Masters Organics Hair Pomade
• The Body Shop Spa Wisdom Monoi Moisture Bath
• The Body Shop Brazilian Nut Scrub
• Avalon Organics Ylang Ylang Conditioner
• Anita Grant Babassu Shampoo Bar
• Aeto Fortifying Olive, Babassu & Jojoba Oil
• Nexxus Phyto Organic Babassu Mud Conditioner
• Epoch Baby Powder
• Babassu Liquid Powder helps protect baby’s skin and lungs since it doesn’t have the small particulate matter of dry powders. Babassu Liquid Powder is an unscented cosmetic that comes from the bottle as lotion then dries on baby’s skin as an absorbent powder.
• Do-it-yourselfers will be pleased to know you can buy the oil pure from many online shops to use in hot oil treatments or to make your own shampoo bars or conditioners. A reputable company is From Nature with Love. They sell 16 ounces for about $10, and a gallon of the oil is approximately $40.
• Many Handmade Soapmakers incorporate babassu oil into their blends, including www.soapdance.com, which features herbal, earthy and karma-enhanced soaps. Also, check out the Handmade Soapmaker’s Guild’s website for other reputable soap makers using babassu oil.

When you think of peaches, you typically think of a juicy summer fruit as well as a delectable addition to pies and traditional American cobblers.

These days, peach is finding its way onto the ingredient list of cosmetics. Why, you may ask, would I want to lather up with a peach? In this article, we explore the wholesome qualities of peaches. By showing how to use peach tree parts as herbs, it will help explain why peaches are not only tasty but also an herb useful in healing, hair conditioning and skin treatments.

Peach Habit and Distribution

Peach is known as (Prunus persica) in botanical Latin. Peaches grow in many different temperate and warm regions around the world. In the United States, the dominant peach producer is California, although Georgia peaches are famous. Personally, my memories of peaches come from the numerous orchards in South Jersey where I grew up. Where ever they hail from, peaches are a delightful seasonal fruits, brimming with vitamins, minerals as well as fiber.

Parts Used and Purpose

While we focus on the fruit, other parts are useful in cosmetics. The leaves are quite medicinal, possessing diuretic, expectorant, laxative and sedative qualities. Peach leaf tea is used for chronic bronchitis and chest congestion. This tea has such a strong laxative action that is not recommended during pregnancy. The powdered leaf is made into a poultice and used to heal wounds.

Peaches contain a lot of boron, which boosts steroids in the blood. The boron in peaches increases estradiol 17B, the most active form of estrogen, making the fruit useful during menopause or after a hysterectomy. I can attest to peaches efficacy in relieving menstrual cramps and PMS.

Peaches are also believed to decrease the occurrence of osteoporosis and increase testosterone because of the boron they contain. A collaborative study between U.S. government scientists at the Agricultural Research Service and their South African and Israel/Palestine colleagues found natural oil in peaches kills fungi and other pests in the soil. This peach oil is being investigated as a pesticide that would be safer for animals, people, insects and the environment than other options.

Many handmade soap makers and cosmetic formulators, both large and small, use nature identical oil (NIO) or synthetic peach scent (fragrance oils) for scenting candles, soaps, creams, lotions, conditioners, shampoos and pomades. Aromatherapeutically, peach scent lends thoughts of peacefulness, gaiety and romance, hence its use in aphrodisiacs. The juice, oil, pit and fruit are used in magical love brews.

What’s the Big Deal About Peach Kernel Oil?

One of the most important parts of the peach when it comes to the hair and skin is the kernel oil. Peach kernels are pressed, yielding precious, sun kissed, non-greasy oil that is added to many cosmetic products. Peach kernel oil contains minerals including boron (previously discussed).

I have always had very sensitive skin, and unfortunately I didn’t really start to have acne until my childbearing years. Peach kernel oil is a delicate oil suitable for those with skin like mine that is very allergic to artificial ingredients and fragrances. The oil’s regenerative and tonic abilities are attributed to its content of antioxidants vitamins A and E. Recommended for its ability to battle dehydration, peach kernel oil is also respected for smoothing wrinkles and lending suppleness to all skin types. Peach kernel oil is recommended for inflamed skin and is recommended for serious conditions such as eczema or psoriasis or overexposure to sun and wind. Peach kernel oil is also high in essential polyunsaturated fatty acids (EPFAs).

Peaches in Hair Care

It seems that modern-day hair care product formulators have revisited the annals of herbal hair care. Traditional American Folklore espouses the use of peach leaf for hair conditioning and as a hair-growth aid used as a water-based infusion (tisane). I bought a pound of cut and sifted peach leaves and created a tea from some of it. I then used the peach-leaf infusion as a conditioning rinse on my kinky, curly, thick hair with good results. I like how it makes lackluster hair shine, and how it created more volume and body.

Peach kernel oil’s use in haircare formulations is similar to skin care. It acts as an emollient and is a light oil (easy to wash out and it doesn’t weigh down thin hair). By coating the hair shaft, it retains natural color and chemically applied color, making color treatments last longer. By gently coating the hair shaft, peach kernel oil protects hair from environmental conditions such as sun, wind, rain and pollution. Coating the hair shaft with light oil also deters frizz and helps define curl patterns. The nutrients in peach kernel oil, like peach leaf infusion, condition hair, aiding hair growth by preventing breakage and tangles.

Using Peach Kernel Oil

Peach kernel oil can be used neat (applied to scalp, hair or skin straight from the bottle). But that approach may prove expensive. Most formulators, aromatherapists and soap makers, including this one, dilute it.

Remarkably, it is equally effective in dilutions of 10 – 50% in carrier oils such as grape seed or sweet almond or jojoba oil, as it is used alone. Peach kernel oil can be used as a carrier oil in aromatherapy or as an emollient hair or skin treatment.

To use as a scented carrier oil to massage the head, scalp or body, stir 10 to 12 drops of pure essential oil to 6 to 7 teaspoons of peach kernel oil. Recommended essential oils for kinky, curly or wavy hair include sage, rosemary, lemongrass, lavender, Roman chamomile, sandalwood, palmarosa, patchouli, ylang/ylang and neroli. You can pick a few and mix them if desired.

Do-it yourselfers will enjoy the superior emollient qualities of peach kernel oil when added to handmade creams, lotions, massage oils and lip balms. Luckily, these formulas now are pre-prepared and sold as ready-to-use bases by certain companies.

For best results, peach kernel oil needs to be kept out of the sun. Stored in a cool dry place it lasts an incredible two to three years. The oil should also be derived from cold-pressed kernels, as over-refining reduces antioxidants.

Warning: Anyone with nut allergies in their home should avoid peach kernel oil and products containing it.

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Products Containing Peach

• Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo
• Elucence Moisture Balancing Conditioner
• Back to Basics Pomegranate Peach Shampoo and Back to Basics Pomegrante Peach Conditioner
• Garnier Frizz Ultra Doux Walnut Peach Leaf Shampoo and Frizz Ultra Doux Walnut Peach Leaf Conditioner
  Frederic Fekkai Technician Shampoo for Dry, Damaged, Color-Treated Hair
• Pure, cold-pressed peach kernal oil is available from many vendors, including Garden of Wisdom. It ranges from $6 16 ounces to $21 per gallon. This light, yellow, faintly scented oil can be applied directly to the skin, scalp and hair.
• Brambleberry sells base (pre-prepared, ready-to-use) lotion, lip balm, soap, cream, shampoo, to which peach kernal oil and favorite essential oils can be added. They also sell peach fragrance oil — one simply called “Peach” and the other called “Peachy Keen.” Added sparingly to your base, you can have a semi-homemade totally peach experience. Contact them at www.brambleberry.com or 360-734-8278.
• Aromatic creates a base cream for mature, sensitive, dry skin featuring peach kernal oil to which you can add your own natural fragrances and color.