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CurlChemist

Can Water-Soluble Hair Products Contain Petrolatum?

Illustration of oil droplets suspended in water (emulsion)
Illustration of a micelle
Depiction of a sterically stabilized emulsion

Uruly Paste by Curlisto Ingredients

  • Water
  • propylene glycol
  • oleth-3 petrolatum
  • mineral oil
  • oleth-10 phosphate
  • oleth-5 oleth-20
  • ozokerite
  • oleth-3 phosphate
  • VP/VA copolymer
  • phenyl trimethicone
  • PEG-45M
  • aminomethyl pro-panol
  • disodium EDTA benozophenone-4
  • phenoxyethanol
  • methylparaben
  • propyl-paraben
  • fragrance
  • red 33
  • blue 1.

Recently, an insightful reader asked whether a certain styling product advertised as “water-soluble” could possibly be so. The specific reason for the inquiry was the presence of petrolatum and mineral oil near the top of the ingredients list. Of course, my reflexive response to this question is “no.” Petrolatum and mineral oil are both decidedly hydrophobic materials, and they are not, nor will they ever be, water-soluble. However, this product is definitely described in the marketing material as being water-soluble, so it seemed worthwhile to give this a closer look and see what answers may be found in the chemistry of the formulation.

The product in question is Curlisto’s Unruly Paste, recommended for use on dry hair to provide curl definition, shine, and to tame frizz. It is described on their website as being non-sticky, non-oily, and “water-soluble.”

It is possible to glean a good bit of useful information about Unruly Paste by analyzing the ingredients list. Unlike many similar types of products, this is a water-based styling crème. It contains humectants (propylene glycol), a water soluble fixative polymer (VP/VA copolymer), a significant percentage of higher molecular weight oils/waxes (petrolatum, mineral oil, and ozokerite – a mineral wax mined from the earth), a non-water soluble silicone for shine and smoothing, and a large quantity of emulsifying agents.

Micelles are aggregates of surfactant molecules in water, comprised of an exterior shell of the hydrophilic portion of the surfactant and a hydrophobic center containing the non-polar segment of the surfactant. In this product, the surfactants form micelles that contain the mineral oil, petrolatum, and/or ozokerite in their core.

The nonionic emulsifying agents prevent coagulation and phase separation of the waxes by a mechanism known as steric stabilization. This is where the hydrophilic portions of the surfactant molecule extend out into the aqueous solution and form a bit of a tangle around the micellar aggregate. This tangle physically prevents micelles from coming together and joining to form bigger micelles, a phenomenon that would eventually destabilize the system and result in phase separation.

Technically, the non-polar waxes are solubilized or dispersed into the water using these emulsifying agents and are water soluble while in these aggregate forms. To reiterate, they are only soluble by nature of their containment within the interior of the micelles formed by the surfactants. (You may recall that we have had similar discussions about amodimethicone, as used in certain shampoos and conditioners.) These types of mixtures are called emulsions, because they are not solutions by proper definition.

Once the product is applied to the hair, the micellar structures are disrupted, the waxes are deposited onto the surface of the hair, and the water from the product evaporates into the air. Since this is a leave-in product, the surfactants remain on the surface of the hair even after the water evaporates, but they no longer serve much purpose except to perhaps attract water molecules to the hair from the environment.

The question is when hair that has been treated with this crème is immersed in water, will the emulsifying agents somehow re-form the micellar structures and re-absorb the waxes into their cores, allowing them to be rinsed away? It is my opinion that this scenario is highly unlikely, as the original process of preparing the product relies heavily upon proper order of addition of ingredients, judicious mixing and agitation, as well as the application of heat in order to form these types of structures in the first place.

However, it is possible that if one were to use a very mild shampoo or even a light conditioning product and gently agitated the hair, that the residual emulsifying agents on the hair might be able to aid in removal of the waxes from the surface of the hair. Generally, one would need to use quite potent shampoos to remove petrolatum and mineral oil from hair, and it would probably be necessary to rinse and repeat.

Final thoughts

Thus, it would seem possible that this method could alleviate some of the accumulation that inevitably occurs from use of typical products that rely upon these types of waxy ingredients. “Water-soluble,” though, seems to be a bit of a marketing stretch.


Elasticity and Healthy Hair

Bun

One of the primary indicators of the health of your hair is its elasticity. Healthy hair has a high level of elasticity, which gives it body, bounce and curl formation. Elasticity makes it possible to style hair and also is responsible for curl retention. But what exactly does the term elasticity mean? We know it has to do with the stretchiness of our hair, and we know it is a desirable property, but it may not be entirely clear what it is.

Also, what contributes to elasticity of hair, and how can we maintain or improve the quality in our own locks? These are important questions, and as always, much insight can be gleaned by an examination of the fundamental principles as well as the molecular structures that make up the hair.

What Does Elasticity Mean?

Elasticity is a term used to describe how a material responds to the application and removal of a specific type of mechanical load (pulling and/or bending). When a stress (force per unit area) is applied to a material, it stretches a certain amount beyond is original length. This deformation is dependent upon the stiffness or rigidity of the material. The ratio of applied stress to the amount of deformation/elongation that occurs is called the elastic (or Young’s) modulus.

Rigid materials, such as iron, stretch very little with an applied force, while other materials, such as synthetic rubber, can stretch many times their original length without breaking. Dry hair can stretch to approximately 1.2 – 1.3 times its original length and still return to its dimensions, while wet hair is less rigid than dry hair and can stretch up to 1.5 times its length. Curly hair can stretch even than straight hair, as it is highly coiled in its relaxed state.


Nexxus Pro-Mend: A Miracle for Split Ends?

Nexxus Pro Mend

In the cosmetics and hair care industry, a continual stream of new products are introduced into the market. Most seem to be variations of whatever happens to be the current popular theme. On occasion though, new products emerge onto the scene bearing remarkable claims that demand closer examination.

One such recent case is the Nexxus Pro-Mend system, which the manufacturers assert can nourish hair and actually heal split ends. Who wouldn’t be intrigued by promises that the product could repair up to 92% of split ends in the first use? It seemed a sufficiently brazen claim to warrant some scientific detective work to determine if the claims are credible, and if so, what the chemical basis is for the reported miracle cure for split ends.

Too Good to Be True?

The initial response many may have when hearing such a claim is that it is preposterous. We have all been taught that hair is a “dead” protein, and that topical treatments such as hair products are incapable of providing anything other than cosmetic, superficial, and temporary benefit. However, our understanding of and facility with protein and polymer chemistry has been continually advancing in unexpected and oftentimes brilliant ways. For this reason, I am willing to temporarily set aside my skepticism and entertain the notion that maybe someone has finally found a way to repair split ends without a pair of scissors.

There is a general procedure one can follow to gain fundamental insight into the technology behind a new product. The first step to understanding is to examine the ingredient list and look for anything new or unusual combinations of materials. Next, it is helpful to review the company’s marketing material and instructions for use of the product. Finally, one can gain a tremendous amount of valuable information by scouring the relevant technical literature and patents (even those of competitors or for products used for completely different applications).

Analysis of the Ingredients

Nexxus Pro-Mend Leave-In Treatment Cr̀eme Ingredients

Water, Phenyltrimethicone, Dimethicone, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Polyquaternium 37, Polyquaternium 28, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Aspartic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Fragrance (Parfum), PPG 1 Trideceth 6, Glyceryl Stearate, PVM/MA Copolymer, Dimethiconol, DMDM Hydantoin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Hexylcinnamal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Limonene, Coumarin, Linalool, Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, Cocos Nucifera Oil (Coconut), Keratin Amino Acid,Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract (Jasmine)

I was slightly taken aback by the ingredients for the products in the Pro-Mend line, which were not exactly what I expected to see in a novel intense conditioning formula. The major components listed are silicones and polyquaternium conditioning agents. The use of cationic polymers (polyquaterniums) is not surprising, as they are selectively attracted to damaged areas of hair (which bear a negative charge). For this reason, they can be particularly useful in smoothing damaged cuticles and managing split ends. However, this is not a novel application of these materials. At first glance, nothing else jumped out as a likely character that would be able to repair split ends.

The first eight ingredients after water are found in many conditioning products, so no surprises there. After that are oils, emulsifiers, humectants, solvents, one fixative, and other common conditioning agents. But again, none of these ingredients are really known for doing anything terribly novel in terms of hair repair. Most are topical film-formers possessing varying ability to smooth, condition and protect the surface of the hair.

So, was that it? Was Pro-Mend merely another iteration in the long line of conditioning products available? Perhaps not. After further contemplation of the formula, I began to think there was more to these products than first meets the eye.

Several ingredients stood out in the list and nagged at my subconscious. Among these were Aspartic Acid, DMDM Hydantoin, Sodium Hydroxide, Hexylcinnamal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, and Keratin Amino Acids. These ingredients are not uncommon and each has its own typical and often mundane purpose in a product. However, some of these are capable of performing double duty, and the presence of all of these ingredients together led me to have some suspicions as to how this product could possibly do the things they promised it could do. But, I needed more information.


Gray Hair Versus Sunshine and UV Radiation

gray hair

Gray hair has a higher susceptibility to damage when exposed to UVA and UVB radiation.

Those with a significant amount of gray hair are keenly aware that it behaves differently than the rest of their tresses. By definition, gray hair is lacking color, leading to less luster and shine. It often doesn’t have the same curl pattern or texture as the rest of the hair, which can make it appear unruly. Gray hair may also seem drier and more prone to frizz. However, really well-kept gray hair can be quite attractive. It is very delicate, though, and is especially prone to photo degradation and yellowing when exposed to excessive amounts of sunlight. This tendency is of particular concern as spring approaches, and many plan to spend more time outdoors gardening, swimming, or just basking in the sunshine. Fortunately, being armed with knowledge of the unique risks of sun exposure to gray hair can make it possible to prevent damage and maintain a healthy head of hair. So what does science tell us about gray hair and ultraviolet rays?

Testing and Data

Researchers have done comparative studies on various physical and chemical properties of blonde, brown, and gray hair, both before and after UV irradiation. One notable study examined a wide array of properties, including tensile modulus, tensile strength, wet combing forces, degree of swelling in basic solution, cuticle abrasion, and dynamic contact angle. They also assessed changes in hair color with exposure to UV radiation. All of these properties provided them with indirect information about the biopolymeric structure of the hair strands and how they were affected by the experimental conditions.

What they found was that the gray hair had a much higher susceptibility to damage than did the brown hair when exposed to both UVA and UVB radiation. The samples had a higher loss of mechanical strength, greater color change (yellowing), increased cuticle damage, and exhibited a marked transition from being hydrophobic to hydrophilic at the surface of the hair strands. This meant the gray hair was more likely to exhibit signs of yellowing after exposure, to become more easily tangled, to lose moisture easily, and to break. It was evident to this group that gray hair requires protection if it is going to be in the sun for prolonged periods.

For this reason, these researchers also performed their study using two different UV absorbers that have been used successfully in skin care products. One was octyl methoxy cinnamate (OMC), a commonly utilized sunscreen additive, frequently found in hair care products marketed as being effective for color retention and sun protection. The other ingredient was cinnamidopropyltrimonium chloride (CATC), a quaternized (cationic) UV absorber. Each UV absorber was applied to the hair via a soak/rinse cycle in a simple shampoo-like solution of SLS/sunscreen. The samples were irradiated for specified periods of time and then run through all of the same testing as the ones previously discussed.


Hair Trends: New and Hot Sustainable Hair Products from Hair Care Industry

Hair products

Budget conscious consumers have switched to less expensive hair care brands

Do-It-Yourself Hair?

Despite being generally rather stable, the personal care and cosmetics industry has not escaped the recession entirely unscathed. Budget-conscious consumers have sought out lower-priced alternatives to salon-based premium priced goods and services, and switched to the less expensive brands available at major retailers, online vendors, and health food stores. Many have elected to forego visits to the salon and do their own chemical processes, such as hair color, at home. The result of this trend has been a slight decrease in typical growth compared to previous years. Fortunately, examination of the current research and development focus in the industry reveals that this is a new opportunity for manufacturers to demonstrate their versatility and ability to meet the demands of their dynamic market.

Improving Quality at Lower Price Points

One response to the changing customer preferences has been the investment of research and development resources into new and improved products that target mass market price points. Recent strategies have included enhancing existing brands with the addition of new high performance additives, offering sulfate-free shampoos, expanding current product lines, and recategorizing products to target specific hair types (especially curly and ethnic hair). Providing consumers with better value by offering larger-sized packages of products has also been a popular approach. Another area where the industry has developed in response to customer preferences is the “green” market sector—where customers demand products with fewer petroleum-derived ingredients, more plant-based materials, and packaging and processes that are sustainable and environmentally conscientious.

As more consumers choose to dye and maintain their own hair color at home, do-it-yourself products have been the focus of intense research at multiple companies. The culmination of several years of work is the launching of several new home hair color lines that utilize foam delivery technology. John Frieda, Clairol, Henkel and Samy are all marketing these products, both in the United States and Europe.


White, Flaky Hair Gel and Other Misadventures

Different Hair Gets Different Results

All hair gels are not created equally

Don’t be a flake!

It is not uncommon for various users of the same hair gel to report different performance results, sometimes drastically so. It can be very unnerving and discouraging to try a popular, highly recommended hair gel, only to discover that your own hair becomes completely unmanageable or develops a case of highly unattractive white, flaky mess. What can be even more frustrating is the fact that the same product that yielded perfect hair one day might produce really undesirable properties another day. It can be discouraging enough to make a person question their ability to properly use a product, or perhaps even begin to think their hair is just flawed or something. However, there typically is a good reason for this type of unreliability, and it can be found by examining the ingredient list.

So, what is the source of this variability, and how can an ingredient-savvy person select a product that will yield a predictable outcome? The answer lies in the chemistry and materials science of the ingredients, of course, most specifically the polymers.


An Ingredient Analysis of Scalpure, “The Facial for Your Scalp”

Scalpure

Scalpure

Recently, there has been some discussion in the curly haired community about products such as Scalpure, which marketed as a facial treatment for the scalp. The makers of such products maintain that that the products can provide a number of benefits to hair, such as stimulating hair growth, reducing excess oil production, and improving dandruff symptoms, among other things. These are rather bold claims, but perhaps are not without some scientific merit. The idea behind the development of this product is rooted (pardon the pun) in the theory that the health of our hair begins with the health and wellbeing of the scalp and follicles. As the makers of Scalpure say, “the scalp is the soil for the hair.” Examination of the ingredients list should provide us with some scientific insight into whether or not the treatment can possibly live up to these promises.

Most of the ingredients in this list are fairly self-explanatory. Purified spring water is the bulk solvent for the product, so it is not an oil-based treatment, which makes it easier to rinse out of the hair. The various essential oils and plant extracts in the list are all familiar to most of us and are commonly found in many products.

Ingredients:

Purified Spring Water
Calcium Bentonite
Japanese Honeysuckle Flower Extract
Peppermint Oil
Tea Tree Oil
Cedarwood Oil
Organic Sage Extract
Organic Burdock Root Extract
Manuka Oil
Jojoba Oil

These types of oils can soothe dry skin, plump and smooth hair, stimulate blood flow to the scalp, improve circulation and thereby enhance cell growth in follicles, act as anti-inflammatory agents, and provide antimicrobial and antifungal benefits. These oils also have a lovely aroma, which can provide the user with a sense of emotional energy and well-being.

To me the fascinating ingredient in Scalpure is calcium bentonite, which is a crystalline inorganic material that is a member of the smectite clay family. It is sometimes known as Montmorillonite clay. Its chemical structure is hydrated sodium calcium aluminum magnesium silicate hydroxide, shown empirically as: (Na,Ca)0.33(Al,Mg)2(Si4O10)(OH)2·nH2O

This aluminosilicate clay is mined from various sites around the world, refined, purified, and then used as raw material for many different applications.

The crystalline structure of calcium bentonite is much like a playing card. The silicon-aluminum-oxygen crystal forms an ionically charged platelet structure. Typical platelet edge thickness is around one nanometer, while the face can be as much as several hundred nanometers across. The broad, flat surface is covered with negative charges, while the edges are very slightly positively charged. This lends an overall negative charge to these crystals.


Curly Hair Q&A: Are “Gentle” Surfactancts Also Damaging?

Dear Tonya: Why is it that some products formulated with “gentle” surfactants and marketed as natural or sulfate-free actually seem to be more drying and damaging to my hair? I thought these products were supposed to be more gentle and kind to my fragile curls.

A: This question pops up frequently, and I have asked it myself when trying out new products without having really scrutinized the ingredients list. (Yes, even the CurlChemist sometimes buys things without much regard for the ingredients list, simply because the products look nice, smell nice, or have good promises on the package). Several factors are at play here.

Gentle Shampoo

Concentration of Cleansing Agent

It is possible that some of these sulfate-free shampoos contain very high percentages of surfactant, resulting in a product that is more effective at removing fatty acids and dirt from the scalp and hair. This can be disastrous for hair that is already fragile and that struggles with being too dry already. Unfortunately, it is not possible to determine this information by reading the ingredients list, as the labeling requirement is simply that the ingredients are listed in order of concentration—typically highest to lowest. Thus, the first surfactant on the list could be in the formula at 10%, 20%, or even 30% (or anything in between), and it would not be evident to the consumer.

Lack of gentle co-surfactants

Many products formulated with some of the stronger surfactants contain additional detergents called co-surfactants. These are typically materials such as cocamidopropyl betaine, fatty alcohols, and mild cationic surfactants. The mixture of these various surfactants act to diminish both the potential irritancy of the product and the oil stripping capability. The micelles formed in such mixed surfactant systems exhibit different physical and kinetic behaviors than those comprised of a single surfactant. The result is typically a milder formulation. Some of the products advertised as more pure or more gentle actually leave this important step out of their formulation.

Lack of fats/oils/conditioning agents

Good-quality cleansing products include moisturizing agents in their formulation that help to redeposit some oils onto the surface of the hair to prevent excessive drying from the washing process. Again, some of the simpler products that claim to be gentle may be missing this important component of the formulation.


CurlChemist: What Makes a Cleansing Ingredient More Harsh or More Gentle?

Cleansing ingredients found in shampoos belong to a category of molecules called surfactants (surface active agents). These materials are comprised of both polar and non-polar segments. The polar segments are water soluble and are referred to as hydrophilic, which means water loving, while the non-polar segments are only very slightly soluble in water due to a lack of sites for favorable interactions with water molecules. The terms hydrophobic (water fearing) and lipophilic (oil loving) are used interchangeably to describe the non-polar portions. Since surfactant molecules possess both lipophilic and hydrophilic qualities, they are referred to as amphiphilic materials.

Frequently, the hydrophilic portion of the surfactant exists on a terminal end of the molecule, and for this reason, is often referred to as the head group. The hydrophobic segment of linear surfactant molecules is typically an alkyl- or aryl-containing chain, and is referred to as the tail group. (Figure 1.) Other types of surfactants, such as bulkier small molecule surfactants with multiple or branched tails, amphiphilic polymers, and biological materials have a more complex molecular architecture that gives them various geometric shapes. Many of these may not possess a distinct head group and tail group, yet they do have definite hydrophilic and hydrophobic segments.

When surfactants are dispersed into water, they cluster together first at the surface of the water, and then at higher concentrations, they cluster together in the bulk of the water and form aggregates known as micelles. In these clusters, the non-polar portions of the molecule all huddle together in the middle of the micelle, while the polar portions form a sort of shield on the outer rim of the micelle, creating a hydration shell and segregating the hydrophobic portions of the surfactant from most of the water. These types of micelles (oil-in-water) can absorb oil into their core and hold it there, while the hydration shell sort of holds the whole thing together.

Most surfactants used for cleansing hair and skin have a negatively charged ion at their head group (example: sulfate) and a positively charged counterion (example: sodium). These are called anionic surfactants. Positively charged (cationic) surfactants are typically used as emulsifiers to facilitate mixing of oils such as silicones and other polymers. Cationic surfactants are also attracted to the negatively charged surfaces of skin and hair, and so they can also be used as mild conditioning agents. Zwitterionic surfactants have both a positive and a negative charge. Some of these, particularly cocamidopropyl betaine, can be quite useful in shampoos and are oftentimes milder than some of the typical anionic surfactants. Nonionic surfactants generally have polar (but not charged) segments with multiple oxygen containing moieties (such as ethylene glycol) and can be quite gentle and effective as cleansing agents.

Surfactant

Representation of a linear surfactant molecule

When determining the relative strength of detergency (oil-stripping ability) of a surfactant, one must consider a variety of things. The size and structure of the tail group is important, as is the size and structure of the polar head group, as well as the size and structure of the counterion (sodium, ammonium, etc.). These are complex properties described by concepts such as self-assembly, critical micelle concentration, packing parameter and the principle of opposing forces.

Essentially, the more compact the molecule and its head group, the more efficiently it can pack into micelles of larger size and capacity. Micelles that are larger can pack more oil into them—thus more efficient at removing oil from the scalp and hair (and other surfaces).


CurlChemist: Hair Drying Time—How to Decrease It?

Taking great care of our delicate curly tresses seems to introduce the occasional (okay, frequent) dilemma into our daily routines. One particular problem is that of sopping wet hair and what to do with it. It is possible to protect your hair from thermal damage by avoiding the use of hair dryers, and frizz can be minimized by avoiding the use of regular bath towels as turbans. But, air drying thick, curly hair that is saturated with water and product can literally take hours, which is neither convenient nor stylish. A wet head really doesn’t lend itself to a professional persona either. So, as we endeavor to maintain our professional credibility, avoid catching colds (if you believe that particular old adage), and have the best looking locks we can, sometimes we find ourselves looking for methods or products which might be of assistance to us in reducing the drying time of our hair.

Mechanical Methods

So, what can we do to attempt to speed this process up? Most of us don’t have hours in the morning to wait while our hair dries, but we also frequently prefer the look of freshly washed hair to that of “slept-on” hair. One popular solution has been the use of cotton t-shirts or microfiber towels. These allow one to gently absorb a lot of the water from hair, while reducing friction between hair strands and the cloth. High levels of friction between hair and cloth (such as occurs when using typical terry cloth towels) can lead to formation of tangles, frizz, roughened cuticles, and unpleasant texture. Smoother cloths help minimize this and can speed drying time. It is important to be gentle with your hair, even when using a cotton t-shirt or microfiber cloth, as wet hair is very susceptible to damage.

Simply squeezing water from the hair manually can also enhance drying time. I like to do this very carefully from root to tip in order to not damage the cuticle. However, this method can disrupt curl pattern, so it may be necessary to turn your head upside down and scrunch or plop in order to restore some bounce.

Clipping the hair up in sections at the roots is also an excellent technique for getting hair to dry more quickly. This exposes more surface area of the portion of hair closest to the scalp, which tends to hold the most water, and allows it to escape more quickly and easily. The clipping procedure also helps provide more body and lift at the root by helping hair to dry away from the scalp. It’s a great method!

Products and Ingredients that can Enhance Drying Time

There are definitely products that are formulated with specific ingredients that help to reduce drying time. Many of them come with some sort of downside, but are worth examining.

Alcohol

Not this kind of alcohol

Alcohols

Denatured ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol have been used in products in the past to speed up drying, either of the hair itself or of the product. Some mousses and hair sprays and some gels may still contain these alcohols in them. Low molecular weight alcohols such as these have extremely low vapor pressure and evaporate rapidly from hair, taking water molecules with them. Unfortunately, these ingredients lead to hair that becomes dry and damaged, so they are generally not favored by those of us with curly hair that already tends toward being overly dry.

Cyclomethicones

Cyclic silicones, known as cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and cyclotetrasiloxane, are frequently used in light conditioning products and spray-on detanglers for their ability to smooth the surface of the hair and to help speed drying time. These silicones are smaller molecules than their polymeric cousins and are sufficiently volatile that they evaporate fairly rapidly. However, many users have reported unpleasant results from products containing these materials, so one should proceed with caution.

Amine-functional silicones

Silicones such as amodimethicone, which are silicones containing amine groups that give them a positive charge, have been observed to decrease drying time. They have the added benefit of imparting a high level of gloss to hair and smoothing the outer surface of the hair. For this reason, they are a popular choice by formulators for products such as leave-in conditioners and spray-on detanglers. Amodimethicone is also resistant to build-up and fairly easily removed. My favorite detangler uses this ingredient, and I have always been pleased with its performance.

I ran across some patents by Procter and Gamble where they were claiming a newly modified version of an amine-functional silicone polymer with halogenated functionality aided in reducing drying time and also in maintaining style hold in a styling formula. These polymers were touted as being extremely water repellent, resistant to rinsing or washing off, and helping reduce drying time in the future by minimizing water penetration into the hair. This doesn’t seem desirable to me, but there may be some who would like a product such as this, especially if they enjoy products with extreme anti-humectant and anti-frizz properties.

Deep Repair

Moroccan Oil and Macadamia Nut Oil

Moroccanoil Treatment and Macadamia Hair Macadamia Natural Oil Deep Repair Masque both advertise wonderful results for hair, both in terms of softness and frizz reduction as well as in reduction of drying time. Both products report between a 40-50% decrease in drying time. I thought this sounded pretty amazing, and was curious to learn the mechanism by which this worked. Unfortunately, when I looked at the formulae for these two products, I found that instead of being natural oils, their ingredient lists were headed by cyclomethicone, dimethicone, and cyclopentasiloxane. I guess we know why they reduce drying time now. This seems to fall under the category of misleading marketing in the “natural” product category.

On the whole, it seems that the various mechanical methods for reducing drying time are safe, effective, and inexpensive. Using several of the methods at a time should speed things up for you (squeezing hair gently, plopping into a microfiber towel or t-shirt, clipping at roots in small sections). Products containing amodimethicone do decrease drying time while maintaining shine and softness and are well-tolerated and even loved by many curly haired consumers. Lightweight conditioners and detanglers containing cyclic silicones perform well for some people, but not for others, so that is something you will have to try for yourself. There doesn’t seem to be much escape from the fact that we simply need to allow more time to get ready than if we were willing to employ some of the more traditional methods of drying one’s hair. I am curious about these ionic hair dryers, but have not looked into them at all. I would love to hear from readers who have experience with them. Talk to me!


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About the Author

Tonya McKay holds a B.S. in Chemistry and an M.S. in Polymer Science. She was privileged to do her graduate research under the tutelage of Dr. Robert Y. Lochhead, a colloid and polymer physical chemist, world-renowned for his expertise and inventions in a variety of industries and applications, most especially cosmetics and personal care. Upon completion of her master's, she spent several years working in industry as a research scientist, honing her skills and understanding in both the fundamentals of polymer science and applications thereof. Although her employment has not always been in the field of personal care and cosmetics during her career, McKay has worked on and led various research projects for major corporations in the field, both suppliers and end product manufacturers. An ever-curious curly herself, Tonya has applied herself to developing an understanding of how curly hair differs from straight and how the ingredients used on curly hair affect its health and beauty. Her passion for the complex interdisciplinary science of personal care products and skin and hair continues to grow, and she enthusiastically pursues new knowledge in this field and shares that knowledge by writing articles on the subject. Currently on hiatus from her professional career as a scientist while she fulfills the many duties of being a mom, Tonya looks forward to returning to her work on her PhD, where she will continue to develop expertise in the area of polymers, biochemistry/biomaterials, colloids and the physical chemistry of complex systems.

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