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Keratin for Hair: Good or Bad?

From styling treatments to straightening complexes and deep conditioners, it seems the great keratin tide has swept over every hair product category on the market today.

With the protein appearing in such a diverse range of items, it can be confusing to decipher what exactly it is that keratin does, and for which hair type it’s best suited. For instance, are keratin-branded hair care products just for those who have had keratin-containing treatments? And some consumers are even concerned about the ingredient’s safety, since it’s found in countless straightener formulas containing controversial actives, like formaldehyde, that can damage hair.

MORE: BB Cream For… Your Hair?

Experts say that you can relax: Keratin has been around for a long time, and its function is only one of protection. “Keratin reinforces your hair,” YouBeauty Cosmetic Chemistry Expert Ni’Kita Wilson. “It’s a protein that forms a film on hair strands, creating a scaffolding-like structure that’s suitable for all hair types,” she adds.

So whether fine, thick, normal or chemically-treated, your hair can benefit from the temporary barrier keratin creates between strands and your environment. It’s the other ingredients in the formula that determine whether or not a product will work best for you.

MORE: Get The Facts About Color-Safe Shampoo

At the drugstore, keratin is taking center stage in a spate of new launches. Pantene Advanced Keratin Repair Split End Fuser and 60 Second Therapy Ampoules (each $14.99) are both highly concentrated treatments that focus on frayed strands and dryness. Tresemmé has incorporated the protein into its Keratin Smooth Shampoo, Smoothing Serum and Heat Protection Spray ($5-$10) to specifically target damage-induced frizz for a sleeker finish.

In prestige boutiques, keratin is joining more elegant ingredients. AG Reconstruct Intense Anti-Breakage Mask ($24) blends silk proteins and shea butter with keratin and panthenol to intensely hydrate hair in need of reconstruction. KeratinPerfect 30-Day Brazilian Hair Smoothing System Essentials Collection ($95) houses two shampoos, a conditioner, smoothing treatments and a daily spray that fuses the protein to rough spots where natural keratin has been depleted for a faster blowdry and style. Meanwhile, Phyto has cleverly added hydrolyzed keratin to Phytovolume Actif Maximizing Volume Spray ($28) for fine, limp hair to physically build girth and texture around strands.

QUIZ: How Healthy Does Your Hair Look?

Keratin is one trend that doesn’t seem to be fading anytime soon—but count this as one of the rare crazes that’s totally worth the hype.


DIY Beauty: Scrubs, Masks and Oils

Looking to add a new addition to your beauty and skincare arsenal? Instead of heading out to the store or ordering a new product online, try whipping up one of these luxurious beauty treats. Body scrubs, face masks, bath salts, oils—these easy, surprisingly inexpensive, DIY beauty treatments are filled with nutrient-packed ingredients and are great alternatives to splurging on the expensive stuff.

Still looking for the perfect Mother’s Day Gift? Package one of these homemade blends in a simple, sealable jar with a string of baker’s twine for a present that’s both thoughtful and totally useful.

MORE: More DIY Beauty Recipes



10 Timesaving Beauty Tips

No one’s going to deny that it feels good to take care of ourselves and look pretty, but a lot of us are guilty of too much time in front of the mirror. In fact, one survey found we spend nearly three years primping and preening over the course of our lifetime. Three years. Sheesh.

Why do we do this to ourselves? Blame it on the old “grass is always greener on the other side,” says Nick Arrojo, owner of Arrojo Studio in New York City.

“The number one beauty mistake follows a similar principle,” he says. Women want things that are unrealistic to achieve, and we tend to go overboard trying to get there. The focus should be enhancing our natural beauty, not fighting it, Arrojo explains.

And that starts with simplicity.

So if bounding out of bed each morning to fight with your hair and perform a litany of beauty chores is not exactly your idea of a fun way to start the day (hey, we’d much rather spend more time snoozing), then you’re in luck. Our experts have broken out their best advice on how to simplify your routine. Here’s how:



MORE:9 Coily Cleansing Conditioners Under $20


How Much Water Should You Drink?

Curly haired woman drinking glass of water

Good old-fashioned H20 is one of your body’s most basic and vital needs. “It’s in our cells and in our blood and in all of the tissues in-between,” says Barbara Rolls, Ph.D., professor of Nutritional Sciences at Pennsylvania State University and a thirst expert.

Proper hydration helps our digestive system run smoothly, keeps our cells young and helps our immune system fight infection. So it would make sense that the more you guzzle, the healthier you’ll be, inside and out, right? Not exactly, says Rolls. “For most of us, fluid balance is not a problem.” In other words, you’re getting enough water already, sans that fancy water bottle glued to your hand. It’s time to get real about water—read on to get the facts, not fiction.

Define…Water

Experts stress that we need to broaden what we think of as water.  “Many people think that the only way to hydrate is with plain drinking water, but that’s just not true,” says Keith Ayoob, R.D., associate clinical professor of pediatrics at Albert Einstein College of Medicine in New York.

Currently, the National Institute of Medicine recommends that women get 2.7 liters (about nine cups) of water per day. But the suggested sources go beyond glasses of clear water. All beverages, including water, as well as moisture in foods like fruit, vegetables, lean meat and soups count.

“When you think about it, both coffee and soup—even soda—are mostly water,” says Ayoob. “Any type of fluid goes toward your daily quota.”

8×8 Reality

Wavy haired woman drinking a bottle of water

But what about the 8 x 8 rule (drink eight glasses of eight ounces of plain water per day, on top of everything else)? There’s no scientific evidence backing that recommendation.

A Dartmouth physiologist named Heinz Valtin conducted a comprehensive search for the origin of this widely repeated statement and published his findings in the American Journal of Physiology in 2002.

Not only did he conclude that there was no evidence to suggest that healthy adults needed to drink large amounts of water, but he also found a possible reason for the long purported myth: a misinterpreted National Resource Council suggestion from 1945.

The original text stated: “A suitable allowance of water for adults is 2.5 liters daily in most circumstances. An ordinary standard for diverse persons is one milliliter for each calorie of food. Most of this quantity is contained in prepared foods.”

He suggested that the last sentence was possibly ignored and the statement as a whole interpreted as you must drink eight glasses (2.5 liters) of water each day.

Thirst ≠ Dehydration

Contrary to the popular mythjust because you’re thirsty doesn’t mean you’re already dehydrated. Dehydration occurs when the body loses more fluid than it takes in, but many people feel thirsty before they reach this deficit, says Rolls.

Two possible reasons for this disconnect: dry mouth and salty foods (more water is needed to dilute salt in the blood, so your thirst center sends an alert possibly causing you to feel thirsty). One small study followed young men around for a day, recording hydration markers in the blood and when they felt thirsty.  Researchers found that the men felt thirsty before any actual fluid deficits occurred in their bodies.


Caribbean Hair & Beauty Secrets

Goat’s Milk

Like many a smart working woman in Kingston, Jamaica, the hustling-bustling capital city, Michelle Yap-McKay pooh-poohed goats’ milk, dismissing it as a common beverage consumed only by the people living in the rural parts of the country where goats roamed free. Even if the grannies and aunties of the villages touted goats’ milk as an elixir for tight, glowing skin and overall good health, it was definitely not on Yap-McKay’s list.

But then one day, the rigors of the corporate world caught up with her.

“I was getting physically exhausted and sicker spiritually, and I didn’t know what to do,” she says. An herbalist recommended she drink goats’ milk, and very quickly, Yap-McKay realized her grandmother had always been right.

MORE: Nordic Secrets For Natural Beauty

“My skin was softer, clearer, like the layers of old skin had been peeled off and my baby skin was coming out,” she says. In addition to drinking it, Yap-McKay—who also credits goats’ milk for the improvement in her overall well-being—discovered that the fat in it contains high amounts of alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), in particular lactic acid, which sloughs off dead cells when applied topically, “in order to reveal absolutely new skin underneath and lighten and brighten the complexion.” Goats’ milk is also packed with vitamin A, which repairs damaged skin tissue, she says, and minerals such as selenium, which can guard against the effects of the sun.

Today, Yap-McKay is a self-confessed goats’ milk convert and the creator of Ital Blends, a brand of soaps and skincare products that seek to leverage the many benefits of goats’ milk and further enhance its properties by blending the milk with a range of different kinds of plants and herbs that are found in the cool Blue Mountains region of Jamaica where she now lives.

Tropical Plants

She is also one of a small but growing number of Caribbean beauticians, scientists and entrepreneurs who are pioneering a movement to bring back the many natural treasures that the region abounds with and shed light on the cornucopia of plants, leaves, fruits and flowers of the islands that, although a staple part of health and wellness in the past, have been overshadowed in the region’s recent history.

MORE: Three Must-Have Caribbean Beauty Brands

The islands of the Caribbean weren’t always the resort-laden, tourist havens that they are today. These islands have literally been built up from nothing, and for years, their residents just had to make do with whatever was around them. The list is long, and includes the likes of aloe, sorrel (a variant of the hibiscus flower), papaya, prickly pear cactus, licorice and castor oil seeds, to name a few. These and many others can be found throughout the Caribbean, and in the past were used as health, beauty and nutrition staples by generations of island residents simply because, like the sea that surrounds them, they were just there.

Through the years, poverty, economic duress and distance from the mainland have all posed multiple challenges to development in the Caribbean, but so too has the weather, in particular the blinding heat of the tropical sun. It’s almost a blessing that nature has been so bountiful and that plants like the miraculous aloe, whose leaves contain a gel that is simply bursting with nutrients, enzymes, vitamins, amino acids and minerals, and which calms and cools the skin and protects it against the sun, should abound in the Caribbean. The succulent inner layer of the aloe leaf, which Caribbean folk cut out and consume either as juice or as is, is also full of polysaccharides that help enhance the immune system by enabling cells to weed out the toxins and retain nutrients.

MORE: 7 Habits That’ll Give You Great Skin

Beauty Benefits

Generations of Caribbean men and women have also used aloe for smoothening out their hair. They have fashioned softening and hydrating face packs out of the papaya fruit, which contains, among other ingredients, lycopene (which protects the skin against UV damage), lutein and enzymes that soothe the skin, and used the leaves of the quaco-bush in lieu of soap for its cleansing properties and as a cure for the common cold.

Aching and sore feet have been relieved with Pepper Elder leaves, which have cooling properties similar to menthol, and the prickly pear cactus, a relative of aloe that contains a rare form of antioxidant known to lower blood sugar levels, has also been used to scrub out sand from between toes and fingers, since it contains lignin that when released, takes on a soap-like consistency.


Alternative Hair Straightening Treatments

Woman with straightened hair

We hear it daily here at NaturallyCurly: the number one reason women love their curls is hands down the versatility. The option to wear our curls tight or loose, in an afro or a twist out, curly or straight. Yes we said straight. If your heart so desires, we support the decision to wear your hair straight too, just make sure you are choosing a method that is safe for you and your strands.

Chemical hair straightening treatments, such as the Japanese (which permanently straightens) and Brazilian (which eradicates frizz and loosens curls for up to six months) treatments, haven taken a lot of heat because they rely on ingredients such as sodium hydroxide (called lye)—a corrosive active ingredient also found in many household detergents—and formaldehyde. The former rearranges the DNA makeup and pH levels of natural kinks while the latter helps bind keratin (a naturally-occurring protein) to hair. Both have been linked to cancer and lung damage. And, over the long run, continually relaxing hair with these methods can even lead to alopecia, a condition in which hair follicles become damaged beyond repair and fall out, never to grow back.

“Disulfide bonds are the strongest bonds in hair,” says Melissa Harvey, a New York-based consulting trichologist (hair scientist) with hair growth company Bio Follicle. “They can only be broken by a radical chemical swell.”

MORE: Formaldehyde-Free Straightening Treatments

Since the U.S. Department of Labor’s Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) issued a hazard warning in 2011 for salon employees and owners performing these types of straightening treatments, product manufacturers have raced back to their labs in search of newer, healthier straightening formulas. Zerran RealLisse uses a completely edible—yes, edible!—combination of wheat, corn and oat proteins to smooth hair for two to four months. Though the professional system is used in high-end salons including the Fred Segal Salon in Santa Monica, C.A, the company has also created a line of shampoos and conditioners with similar ingredients to help clients maintain their straight strands right at home. Farouk Systems’ Chi Enviro American Smoothing Treatment is another pro-straightening alternative that propels proven strengthening ingredients including amino acids, proteins, silk fibers and pearl into the hair’s cuticle to rearrange unruly hair strands for as long as four months. And the Anevolve Control Zero Straightening System, which grows out after one to four months, relies on sodium sulfite (a food-grade preservative) instead of formaldehyde to break down the natural bonds in curls.

MORE: FDA Deems Brazilian Blowout Hazardous


BB Creams For Hair Are Here

What is a BB Cream?

Just when you thought the BB cream craze had reached its height, the popular flaw-blurring technology has now jumped the aisle into hair care. But what does that mean for your strands?

By combining treatment and styling ingredients together in one product in the same way that facial BB creams combine skincare with makeup, you can tackle hair health and texture quickly, thanks to bottles packed with multiple benefits.

“It’s similar to what stylists term ‘cocktailing’ different products together in order to apply one customized balm,” says San Diego stylist and salon owner Jet Rhys. However, some of the more sophisticated ingredients in these new high-tech balms are now coming straight from skincare.

MORE: BB Cream—The Skincare Product That Does It All

BB Cream Products

Products to Try

KeratinPerfect Hair BB 3-in-1 Multi Action Hair Beauty Balm ($28) contains apple stem cell extract to fight hair aging; nano-keratin proteins to strengthen; and oils of argan, apricot kernel and almond to moisturize and add gloss. Alterna Caviar Anti-Aging Blonde Beauty Balm ($28) uses vitamin C, lemon, chamomile and honey to hydrate and add body, shine and brilliance to buttery hair colors. The line’s proprietary caviar extract infuses Omega-3 fatty acids into hair to boost elasticity. No word yet on a brunette or redhead version.

Other products are claiming a grand-slam list of benefits, of which 10 seems to be the magic number.

Pantene says when creating the Ultimate 10 BB Crème ($5), the company “looked to the skincare benefits of the BB cream and optimized the right level of ingredients for a product that not only feels good on the hair, but also delivers a flawless finish.” Try this balm for repair, heat protection, frizz control, shine, softening and fly-away-taming benefits, among others.

MORE: Are CC Creams Actually Different From BB Creams?

And It’s A 10 Hair Care just introduced the leave-in Miracle Silk Smoothing Balm ($20), which claims 10 benefits including straightening, cutting down on drying time, detangling, prolonging your blowout and weightless hair hold, all in one fell swoop.

Some may say the BB hair creams are just marketing jazz, but we’re all for anything that saves time, money and space on our ever-crowded bathroom counter.

Now, when we see CC Cream for hair, that’s when we’ll actually fall out of our chairs.


Going Gray Gracefully

Mature curly woman

Any woman who colors her hair knows that it often feels like a full-time job.

Whether you’re adding highlights in your 20s or channeling your inner red head in your 30s, the every-six-week appointments needed for hair color maintenance are a serious responsibility, and cost a pretty penny to boot.

Things get even trickier as your hair starts to gray—which happens sooner for some than others. Silver strands can take hold anywhere from our 20s to our 60s—and your chance of going gray increases 10-20 percent every decade after 30 years, according to the Library of Congress.

If you choose to continue coloring, you’ll probably find that you have to hit the salon or the drug store even more often to keep ahead of those grays.

Embracing Natural Color

While color is always an option, we love seeing women who embrace their naturally graying hair.  It’s a movement that’s gained traction over that past few years, as more high profile women are embracing their silver streaks. Think: Helen Mirren, Jamie Lee Curtis, Meryl Streep (in “The Devil Wears Prada”) and Blythe Danner.

The only problem with embracing your gorgeous grays? The process of getting there—growing out your hair color from partially gray to totally gray. As your hair grows out and changes color, you’ll be confronted with two-tone hair that’s half gray, half colored.

MORE: The Science Behind Going Gray

We asked celebrity hair colorist Rita Hazan—she of Jennifer Lopez and Katy Perry fame—for some advice about how to make the transition easier, and, uh, more attractive.

Good news: Hazan says avoiding two-tone hair is tough, but not impossible. “There’s a technique I use which is helpful: Stop coloring everything else besides the hairline and the part. It will take a long time for the back to grow out and when you start growing out the top, use my Root Concealer to blend in your color.” You can ask your colorist to try this same technique and apply it at home if you do your own color.

Try a Glaze

Gray strands also change your overall hair texture—it typically becomes coarser. Combat this with heavier conditioning products, and add an anti-frizz serum to your routine. Gray is also prone to yellowing or brassiness. Try a DIY hair gloss like Rita Hazan Foaming Gloss or Frederic Fekkai Salon Glaze, or ask your colorist for an in-salon gloss to combat it.

Hazan also suggests getting a chic haircut and wearing enough makeup to compensate for the lack of color in your hair. “This way you won’t look washed out, but chic and youthful.”

GALLERY: Stars Who Went Gray

Just think of the money (and time!) you’ll save.

We highly recommend using it on a sexy beach vacation—just remember to pack a hat!


Damage Control: Innovations in Hair Color

Woman dyeing her hair

Ammonia in Hair Color

Professional, permanent coloring products and their DIY counterparts often rely on ammonia, a noxious chemical compound that opens the hair cuticle so that the new, desired shade can penetrate thoroughly. While effective, its harsh nature sometimes causes irritation and a burning sensation that makes a color appointment seem like torture to some. But even if you’re not prone to allergic reactions, the tinting process is still a major cause of dull, frizzy strands. “Ammonia can weaken hair and make it dull by stripping the outer layer of each shaft,” says Elizabeth Tanzi, M.D, a Washington, D.C., dermatologist.

To soften the blow, L’Oréal Professionnel debuted INOA (which stands for Innovation No Ammonia) in 2011. It was a game-changing alternative to traditional coloring products, thanks to its use of an odorless chemical, monoethanolamine (or MEA), to open the hair shaft. While groundbreaking, the gentler version had certain limitations—being able to darken strands only one shade, not to lighten or conceal grays. Since then, L’Oréal chemists have discovered a way to boost the efficacy of MEA, giving ammonia-averse consumers more options and a wider color palette. This new technology, appearing for the first time in an at-home color, is in Garnier (which is owned by L’Oréal) Olia at-home color line. It incorporates MEA and an oil gel (dubbed Oleogel) that coats and conditions the outer layer of hair strands to preserve strength.

MORE: A Healthier Way to Highlight

Monoethanolamine (MEA)

According to the company, Olia—which includes 24 shades and is infused with fragrant, flower-based oils—can lift color up to three levels. “It’s an exciting option that delivers softer, shinier, healthier-looking hair,” says Kyle White, a New York-based celebrity colorist with Garnier who has used the line on his clients. “Think of it this way: If ammonia is sugar, MEA is Stevia.”

In addition to ammonia, some companies have also eliminated PPD (also known as PTD)—petroleum-derived dyes commonly used in hair color pigments that can cause severe allergic reactions—from their formulas. Instead, they use plant- or vegetable-based versions to tint hair. Though less effective (the pigment, more like a rinse, lasts only six or seven shampoos, as opposed to four to six weeks with a semi-permanent dye), they are a health-conscious option for men and women simply looking to mask grays. Aubrey Organics Color Me Natural is one such brand that conceals silvery roots on dark brown strands. Lush Henna Hair Dyes come in four shades to gently cover grays sprouting on redheads and brunettes while conditioning and imparting shine. “Plant-based dyes are healthier for the hair,” says Melissa Harvey, a New York-based consulting trichologist (hair scientist) with hair growth company Bio Follicle. “But since they go deeper into the cuticle with each application, it does make it difficult for anyone looking to go lighter.”


No Poo Helpers: Top Dry Shampoos

If you’re new to the no ‘poo haircare method, or you just don’t have time to wash, condition, deep condition, and leave-in condition your hair, then you might be looking for a boost of encouragement to get you through the day. “Much like Little House on the Prairie, Sunday night is hair washing night,” YouBeauty senior editor, Courtney Dunlop, recently bemoaned on Twitter.

MORE: All About the No Shampoo Method

It’s a sentiment that’s spawned a burgeoning industry of dry shampoo, named for the product’s seemingly miraculous ability to refresh hair without the need for water. Harried women everywhere are rejoicing, as more skip their daily sudsing ritual in favor of more sleep, more free time, more sanity and in our case, healthier curls.

“Dry shampoo beats the old-time trick of using baby powder because aerosols and nozzles better direct application,” says San Diego celebrity stylist and salon owner, Jet Rhys.

QUIZ: How Healthy Is Your Hair, Really?

Options range the gamut with budget versions that include oil-absorbing particles and basic scents while pricier picks employ micronized powders for greater volume and extras like tea tree oil to prevent dandruff. Higher end options also offer elegant fragrance blends that mimic shampoo-fresh hair, adds Rhys.

To apply dry shampoo, bend forward and work in sections holding the spray several inches from hair and directing the nozzle towards the scalp. Next massage roots with fingertips to build volume and to spread the formula through strands, instructs Rhys.

However you use it, dry shampoo is one of those hero products that you’ll likely wonder how you ever did without. Check out the best picks of the crop in the gallery.



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