Frizz is the curly girl’s arch nemesis and you need to arm yourself with tools for battle. But first, you have to figure out what’s causing the fight — and that’s not always easy.
“We can confuse frizzy hair as being in bad condition and that’s not necessarily true,” says Kaz Amor, a stylist at Warren Tricome Salon in West Hollywood, Calif. “It’s usually the way curls are being handled that causes the hair to frizz.”
Here, a guide to the undercover causes of frizz — and how you can fight back.
Undercover Cause #1: You avoid styling products
If you refuse to try any products at all, it’s nearly impossible to avoid frizz. You don’t have to crowd your vanity with stylers, but it’s critical to test products that are appropriate for your curl type to see what works best to tame your curly mane.
“A lot of people equate using any product in their hair as it being a high-maintenance hairstyle,” Ethan Shaw, a curl-centric stylist with James Allan Salon in Austin, Texas. “The challenge is to convince them they need to change their attitude about all of that.”
Frizz-Fighting Fix: Shaw suggests you decide what you want your hair to look like, and then work with your stylist to set goals to get there — one step at a time. It may mean cutting off hair that’s damaged or finding the right styling produucts, or changing your cleansing and conditioning routine.
Undercover Cause #2: You’re using the wrong products
Curlies are often product junkies. You hear about a product that is working for someone else, so you unwittingly buy it without really considering if it’s the right product for your curl type. And if the product is not a perfect fit, the result once again can be annoying frizz. Or, frazzled curls can come buying the cheapest (read: wrong) products just to pinch pennies. “With the economy the way it is, I’m finding out that a lot of my clients have been going to different cheaper shampoos that are more drying,” says Teri Parr, a curly stylist at The Strand at Pinecrest, a salon in Miami, Fla.
Frizz-Fighting Fix: Parr suggests thinking hard about how the challenging economy is affecting you. “I ask about what they’re cutting back on,” she says. “Everyone is trying to cut back on something and the first thing is the shampoo and conditioner.” Ask your stylist about the curl-crushing effects of cheap products, then what products they can suggest that won’t bust your budget. If you’re using your best friend’s latest, greatest find, make sure it’s the greatest for your curl type.
Undercover Cause #3: You don’t apply products correctly
If you are using all the right products, but still find yourself buried in frizz, you may simply not be using them the right way.
“I try to guide my clients step by step through the styling process and simplify it as much as possible,” Shaw says. “So much of the style is about the application.”
Frizz-Fighting Fix: “A visual aid is best,” says Giselle Grant, a curl-centric stylist at Curltopia in New Smyrna, Ga.
Show your stylist how you style your hair from start to finish, so he or she can figure out what you’re doing wrong and show you the right way to style your curls.
Undercover Cause #4: You’re not using enough product
When you are using the right products and applying them the right way, the problem could lie in the amount you’re using. Chances are, it’s not enough. This problem is more likely to surface in curlies with a longer, thicker mane, which requires more than the standard dollop of product.
Frizz-Fighting Fix: Ask your stylist to show you rather than tell you how to correctly apply products.
“I’ll show them in front of the mirror, what one side looks like without enough product and what the other side looks like with the adequate amount, which is a completely different look,” Grant says. “Showing them what a balance should look like, generally will eliminate the problem.”
Undercover Cause #5: You skip over maintenance
You may be doing all the right things during the day, but still miss one of the most important steps while you’re sleeping. Frizzy mornings are common if you don’t manage your mane in the overnight hours, especially for kinkier textures.
Frizz-Fighting Fix: Grant suggests sleeping with satin or silk, whether that’s a scarf bonnet to protect their spirals or a pillow case to rest their curly head.
“Sleeping with silk or satin helps to maintain the moisture in the hair. Cotton and other materials dry it out which adds to frizz,” Grant says. “The kinkier the texture, it’s best at night sometimes to twist or braid it, so they can control it while they sleep.”
Applying a leave-in conditioner at night also helps, and remember to do it consistently if you really want to notice a difference.
Undercover Cause #6: You have a drying dilemma.
Curls and kinks can quickly become frazzled into frizz in the drying phase of the styling process. While using a diffuser can add a much-needed boost to looser curls, a hooded dryer is often the best option for kinkier curl types.
Frizz-Fighting Fix: “If it’s a really tight curl and kinky texture, I suggest a hooded dryer because heat flows down and it doesn’t disturb the curl as much as a blow dryer or diffuser,” Grant says. If you don’t have a hooded dryer at home, Grant recommends braiding or twisting the textured tresses, and letting them air dry.
“If time is an issue and I have to diffuse in the salon, I only diffuse to a certain point and let them air dry the rest of the way,” says Grant, again referring to Type-4 textures. “But since the client doesn’t know when that point is, I encourage them not to diffuse at home because it will be frizzy eight out of 10 times.”
Undercover Cause #7: You overdo the flat iron.
There’s no mistaking the burnt, frayed ends or the wilted, weak curls. They reveal a truth that you are trying to cover up, even if you don’t realize it.
“A lot of times it damages the curl to the point where it’s not going to curl up nicely and it comes up as frizz,” Shaw says.
Frizz-Fighting Fix:Avoid using a flat iron. But if you must, at least don’t crank it up to the hottest setting. “I tell them they have to be careful,” adds Parr, who works in Miami, a city blanketed in heat and humidity. “I say, ‘I understand you want to change up your look once in a while, but during summertime in Miami? Not a good idea.’”
Undercover Cause #8: You overdo it on color.
f you try to get by with multiple color processes and expect to hide the drying effects from your stylist, think again. A savvy stylist will see the damage, so it’s best to be upfront about your hair habits—good or bad.
“You have those who say they don’t color their hair, and then I see the root,” Parr says. “If you call them on it, in more of a joking manner, they’ll usually end up opening up to you and telling you more stuff than you really wanted to know.”
Frizz-Fighting Fix: Don’t color your hair on your own, and expect your stylist to create a miracle to fix it. Always consult with a professional before considering color or highlights. “It’s hard to tell a woman, ‘You can’t color your hair,’” says Stanley of New York’s Christoper Stanley Salon. “But I will never sacrifice hair texture for a beautiful color.”
Instead, Stanley suggests a demi-permanent color. “You won’t get 100% gray coverage, but it won’t be as damaging.” And if you’re set on using permanent color, choose between a single-process or highlights—not both.
“It’s tough for the curly hair client because she might be covering gray with a darker color, but also wants to brighten it up with highlights. I just say no,” Stanley says. “I’m not going to have someone walking around with an amazing color on ratty-looking hair.”
In the end, always choose a stylist that will put your interests first. Yes, you may be frustrated at the work it takes to fight frizz, but you’ll ultimately thank your stylist for preparing you to battle it. “If you make it playful and fun, they end up walking out of the salon with a smile,” Parr says. “No one wants to be ridiculed or judged or embarrassed by what they’re doing. Life is too short. Have fun with it.”
Stylists’ Product Recommendations
The ever-increasing number of products available to curlies can lead to confusion. We asked some curl-centric stylists to cut through the clutter and share their top picks, ranging from conditioners to stylers to serums.
Cleansers/Conditioners
Teri Parr suggests Bain de Terre products for budget-conscious curlies.
Stanley of New York’s Christopher Stanley Salon encourages his curly clients to opt for a sulfate-free shampoo to cleanse the scalp and hair, without stripping away its natural oils. His favorites are DevaCurl’s Low-Poo and No-Poo, which he says works especially well on thick, coarse curls.
When it comes to Type 3 textures, Giselle Grant, a stylist at Curltopia in New Smyrna, Ga., suggests Carol’s Daughter Tui Leave-in Conditioner or Black Vanilla Leave-In Conditioner. For coarse, kinkier textures, she recommends Miss Jessie’s Baby Buttercreme or Curly Buttercreme.
Teri Parr, a curly stylist at The Strand at Pinecrest, a salon in Miami, Fla., prefers AG Tech One Daily Shampoo. And when frugal clients ask her for cheaper options, she suggests Bain de Terre Jasmine Shampoo and Cucumber Conditioner or Healthy, Sexy Hair Pumpkin Rehydrating Shampoo and Conditioner. “It smells delicious and softens the hair,” Parr says.
Deep treatments also help smooth the hair shaft, which cuts down on frizz. Parr recommends a cocktail of AG’s Deep Reconstruction Treatment or Ultramoist Moisture Treatment, along with a few drops of AG’s Liquid Varnish smoothing polish. Leave it on for 10 to 15 minutes for healthier, shinier curls, according to Parr.
Gels/Styling Creams
Carol’s Daughter Mimosa Hair Honey
Making sure your client has applied enough styling product, and in the right way, also helps minimize frizz. Stanley recommends DevaCurl Angell or Paul Mitchell’s Modern Elixir styling cream for thick, dense curls.
Ethan Shaw, a stylist with James Allan Salon in Austin, Texas, and Parr of Miami, Fla., suggest AG’s Re:coil curl activator. Parr also cocktails the styler with AG’s Fast Food leave-on conditioner. “It makes the curls soft, not hard and crunchy, and helps a lot with frizz,” Parr says.
For Type 3 curls, Grant recommends Carol’s Daughter Hair Milk. When it comes to finer textures with Type 4 tight coils, she suggests trying a pomade, such as Carol’s Daughter Mimosa Hair Honey.
Serums/Oils
Murray’s Pomade
Whenever using silicone-based serums or oils, remember a little goes a very long way. “Don’t get it anywhere near the scalp, just take a few drops to coat the hair strand,” says Stanley, who recommends Ecru Silk Nectar Serum, KMS Silk Sheen Therapy Plus, Goldwell’s Kerasilk Anti-Frizz Serum or Earthly Body Marrakesh Oil.
A dab of Murray’s Pomade is enough to achieve success for Shaw’s curly clients. “Just take a tiny, tiny little bit and take your palms and glide it over the top of the head,” he says.
And Parr’s favorites for frizz-free shine are BioSilk’s Silk Therapy Serum, AG’s Liquid Varnish smoothing polish or Moroccan Oil.
This entry was posted on Monday, June 1st, 2009 at 1:36 am and is filed under Curl Products, CurlyKids, Hair Color, Ingredients, It's a Curly World. You can follow any comments to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a comment.
June 2nd, 2009 at 5:03 pm
What? No connection to dewpoint, humectants, or anti-humectants?
June 2nd, 2009 at 7:38 pm
No matter what I do or use some parts of my hair refuse to clump or curl, just frizz. Multiracial 3c/4a I think.
June 2nd, 2009 at 7:43 pm
My hair is 3a and for a long time I still had areas of frizz after I applied product. I seen a video on how to apply hair products for curly hair and immediately after getting out of the shower I section the hair in five little buns using a bird bill clip to hold them in place. Then I take the back section out and apply Deva Curl gel to my hair and scrunch to bring out the curl. Then I grab each section doing the same thing up to the front. It really helped with those areas I just could saturate with product. Mostly the back. The results were amazing! Also the Deva Curly defuser is awesome. I wish I had known about it sooner.
June 2nd, 2009 at 9:06 pm
Yea, I already section and still… I’ve decided to use more product in those spots however it already takes a long time to dry. I want to try a protein treatment this weekend, maybe this will help.
June 5th, 2009 at 4:01 pm
what about touching it too much?
June 6th, 2009 at 2:45 pm
I think Giselle’s comment about using a hooded dryer is spot on, but is there a hooded dryer that dries from the TOP? They all seem to dry from a hose in the back! Someone (hello Devachan?) should make a hooded dryer for HOME use — similar to the kind they have in the salons (or heating lamps). Now THAT would be a huge seller.
June 12th, 2009 at 9:44 am
The article is helpful but never addresses changes in weather patterns as a contributor to frizzy hair. My hair always looks better when it’s cold and dry out. Damp and humid? Forget it. No product in the world is going to keep frizz out on a humid, rainy summer day.
June 15th, 2009 at 6:42 pm
What about using oils and butters to help control frizz? What about controlling damage to the hair? Proper brushing and combing goes a long way to that. So does using proper hair accessories like fat cloth covered bands and scrunchies instead of rubber bands. There is a LOT missing from this article.
August 7th, 2009 at 4:54 pm
I have a problem with the article and how they keep pushing the more expensive shampoos and conditioners. With the way it’s going I HAVE TO CUT BACK ON EVERYTHING! Don’t these stylists and people know what it’s like to be a broke out of college student living on a small wage trying to get by? I’m sorry, but these people need to start posting products that don’t cost an arm and a leg and can be great for those on an EXTREMELY TIGHT BUDGET.