Dry Winter Hair

You may need different gels for different seasons

Polymers

Polymers are the large molecules used in hair gels to provide the styling and hold properties. When the gel is applied to the hair, the product spreads out evenly over the surface of the strands and creates clumps of hair that are attracted to one another via capillary and Van der Waals forces. The product dries to form a clear, shiny film that acts to encapsulate and hold the hair in place and give it form and lasting hold (also known as curl formation and retention”>. A variety of naturally derived, synthetic and combination polymers are used to this effect, and all have their inherent strengths and weaknesses.

Most formulations are a balancing act between pros and cons of the ingredients. In order to improve one property, it is typical to lose ground in another property. For instance, it is desirable for a product to provide strong hold, yet for the film to be durable and not brittle. It is desirable for a gel to resist humidity from the environment, but also for it to be water soluble and easily removed from hair. However, these objectives are naturally in conflict with one another. Polymers can give special advantages to formulators in this respect, as it is possible to tailor one to meet multiple requirements. Cost is often a limiting factor, though, as the more fancy and specialized a polymer is, the more difficult it can be to obtain in sufficient quantities and at a reasonable price.

So, what specifically causes white flaking? Some polymers form really strong films with high tensile strength that also adhere very well to the hair. These molecules are not very flexible, though, and when enough force is applied to the hair (touching the hair, scrunching, styling, wind”>, they will essentially shatter like glass into many small particles. These particles lose their clarity and become unattractive white flakes on the hair and scalp. This tends to be more of a problem in cold, dry weather.

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