I agree that NYT is journalism. However, I think what Eilowny is referring to is the media's tendency to take one random scientific study and create headlines such as "The cure for xyz" or "Vegetables cause xyz cancer" etc. I've heard many researchers complain about this. The media seems to dismiss the fact that correlation does not prove causation and get people fired up about something that might be nothing.
I wouldn't discredit the whole article just because it isn't an academic journal entry. I read it. It seems well written and well researched (for its purpose) to me. As with all things, I'd just say "consider the source".