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Old 08-10-2013, 02:27 PM   #1
kaykre's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 301
Default Question about demis and semis and recs for a hair color

Okay, here is the previous thread about what's going on with my hair:
Help with hair color + growing out highlights

Basically, I need a very ashy level 7/8/9 shade but am having trouble finding one.

Also, are demis really that much more damaging? I understand the whole peroxide and ammonia thing but are demis only slightly damaging (whereas perm color is obviously more so)?

I have been researching and have yet to find a semi that would be the color I'm looking for (or even multiple shades I could mix). I've also read they only last 6-8 washes and honestly, I don't want to be coloring that often.

Thoughts? Or recs for a color (or a line of color that I could research shades)?
2A/B. Mix of fine, medium, and coarse (mostly medium). Dense. Mix of normal and high porosity.
Dry climate.

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Old 08-13-2013, 03:51 AM   #2
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,594

The problem with a demi is not that it is particularly damaging as a one off, with all colours the worst of the damage occurs when you dye (bleach, permanent, demi) over the top of old dye. This you have already done repeatedly, the last thing you now need is a series of demis that won't last. Really the colourist should have used a peroxide free colour remover on your old brown dye not just bleached it out.

Done properly a semi should take and last well, if it does not either it was badly applied or your hair is very porous (damaged). A temporary colour (does not penetrate as a semi does) will only last a few washes as you say. I do wonder if ION is running dark for you because your hair is so porous, not the colours's fault.

Semis work best if you choose a shade that is much lighter than you need, then leave the semi to penetrate for much longer than the instructions - I do two hours (please do strand tests first, you don't want dark brown/ a green tint and may need to apply to roots well before lengths). Also consider aftercare: cool water, all products at low pH, super gentle anionic surfactant free shampoo or conditioner only washing, stretch washes using dry shampoo.

I absolutely killed my hair with a permanent box dye, the lengths became super porous from 'refreshing' the lengths for just five minutes every six to eight weeks, that is similar concept to using a demi over old dye or persulphate bleach. I now use a high pigment semi that is still rich/ bright after two to four months.

Beneficial ingredients for damaged or colour treated hair include coconut oil, hydrolysed protein, ceramides, 18-MEA and panthenol. Coconut oil and protein can help protect hair from persulphate bleach/ peroxide damage as well as patch repairing.
2a-2c, medium texture, porous/ colour treated. Three years CG, growing out mechanical and chemical damage = breakage and very high porosity. Past armpit length heading for waist.

CO-wash: Inecto coconut
Treatments: Komaza Matani, coconut oil, Hairveda Sitrinillah
Leave in: Fructis Sleek & Shine (old), Gliss ultimate volume, Inecto argan
Styler: Umberto Giannini jelly, Boots Essentials gel
Experimenting with: going back to basics

Last edited by Firefox7275; 08-13-2013 at 03:56 AM.
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