A few tips on treatments for newbies and not so newbies too

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I thought I'd pass on some info about treatments to everyone. Some of this even the not-so-newbies will find to be new! Or maybe not.

So anyway, some of this information I've gotten through my experience as a stylist, some from reading, some from my training as an instructor (I now work as an educator....I teach the stylists at my stores to use our haircutting method, color classes, and do seminars at stores. I don't work behind the chair hardly at all anymore) and since we've had some recent treatment questions, I thought I'd do a little primer with tips for everyone.

For the newbies, a protein treatment (PT) is done with a protein filled conditioner to fill the gaps in the hair in. You lose protein more if you're fine haired or if you chemically treat, such as coloring. I do both, so protein is my hair's best friend. Protein helps the elasticity, or the ability of the hair to stretch without breaking.

A Deep Treatment (DT) is more moisture only, though stylists like me will call a protein treatment a deep treatment as well. Moisture helps the porosity of the hair (which is the ability of the hair to absorb moisture LOL). My hair is high porosity, meaning that my hair is very dry and needs lots of moisture because it loses it easily due to a raised cuticle. My hair is both naturally porous and extra porous due to color treating. I also have low elasticity....meaning that my hair doesn't stretch too far and then bounce back, it tends to break. So a lot of the time I need both protein and moisture for my hair.

I get asked a lot if you need both if you should start with protein and follow with moisture or the other way around. A lot of curlies worry about the dreaded protein crunchies....Here's why that happens. I used to recommend it this way because I was told to, but didn't know why this is true until my training as an educator. I alway recommend this to my stylists too. Protein actually forces moisture from the hair. So if your hair is dry anyway, or you use too much protein and don't follow with moisture, you get the crunchies. So anytime you do a protein treatment I always recommend following it with moisture only. Biolage conditioning balm (or the knock offs), CJ Curls Rehab, SSDD or the JC WDT are all good moisture only proteinless condishes that work for this. I like to use CJCF followed by CJCR for my protein and moisture treatments. I've also used and love SSPT and SSDD for my treatments. Sometimes when I use CJ I'll mix it up with some H&BDT, which is good because it has both moisture and protein, so if I don't have 2 hours to sit with stuff on my head I'll use it and get both but it's not as protein heavy, so if I need more protein I do it the other way. But when I rinse I always follow with just a few mins. of Rehab and then rinse that out just for extra protection from crunchiness. My hair loves protein though, so I'm not as likely to get the crunchies. The only time I got the crunchies was when I was CO washing with Sallys Cure Care every day, which is unscented, due to fragrance sensitivities. It's a pretty protein heavy condish, or the daily use of it bothered me.

It's a good idea to either allow a good amount of time for it to remain on the hair or use heat with it to help it penetrate. I usually leave my PT and DT on for an hour each at least (so that's at least 2 hours of it on) with a plastic cap (which traps my body heat in and helps penetration) when I do my treatments. If you use heat, usually you only need about 20 mins. or so. It varies, and takes some trial and error but you'll figure it out.

Here's something that may be new to everyone....anytime you do a PT or a DT I always recommend (and I tell my stylists to do this too with their clients) that you towel dry the hair before applying the treatment. Not only does water take up space in the hair but it DILUTES YOUR TREATMENT so if you want maximum benefits this always helps. So I will cleanse, rinse, take a floursack towel off the rack and blot the majority of the drippies out, then apply my protein treatment. Then I rinse, REBLOT and apply my moisture treatment. I want all the good things in my treatments to do what they should to get maximum benefits.

I hope this helps the newbies here (welcome!) and is some new information for those of us that aren't so new!

Cosmetology Educator with sensitivities, eczema and Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Ingredients Maven
Products: Free and Clear sulfate free poo and condish, Theraneem Sulfate Free Shampoo/Condish, Unscented SSCEJ, Coconut oil, Camellia oil, Argan oil
Lady Karaan, High Priestess of Hayr Tretements in the Order of Curly Crusaders
Fotki updated 10/12/10 Password: wavy
Thanks for the information!! I'm not a newbie, but willing to learn new things . I'm getting ready to do a PT today and I'm definitely going to apply this info. Thanks!
$5 off first order at iherb use code KEY066
I am considering a PT so any info I can get on them is great.

Thanks for the thread!You rock!
Toronto, Ontario Curlie
2c/3a Fine Texture/Normal Porostiy/Normal elasticity
Using:CJCR/CJBH, Kevin Murphy Maxi wash, AG: recoil, JCCC, DBPSC, SSPT, SSPS, CHSCK
Air Dry only!
Want to take my new found knowledge and apply it to make lovely lush locks!
Living life one curl at a time!
I've always been curious about this--Is a hot oil treatment considered a DT?? Thanks for all the info!!
CG SINCE 12/15/2009
Mostly 3A with some 2C and 3B
Medium Porosity I think?
Fii coarse very dry
Trying to grow out!!

CO wash: Suave Naturals coconut
Cond: Aubrey Organics Honey Suckle Rose, Loreal Vive Pro Hydra Gloss
Styling: Essences Set Me Up
Want To Try: Fantasia IC Gel, Flax Seed Gel, KCCC

Still Trying to figure out what my hair likes!
Thanks for the information!! I'm not a newbie, but willing to learn new things . I'm getting ready to do a PT today and I'm definitely going to apply this info. Thanks!
Originally Posted by curlykey

YW! My pleasure. I love a good PT and DT that's for sure....

Cosmetology Educator with sensitivities, eczema and Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Ingredients Maven
Products: Free and Clear sulfate free poo and condish, Theraneem Sulfate Free Shampoo/Condish, Unscented SSCEJ, Coconut oil, Camellia oil, Argan oil
Lady Karaan, High Priestess of Hayr Tretements in the Order of Curly Crusaders
Fotki updated 10/12/10 Password: wavy
I am considering a PT so any info I can get on them is great.

Thanks for the thread!You rock!
Originally Posted by aunttallulah
YW! Thanks!

Cosmetology Educator with sensitivities, eczema and Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Ingredients Maven
Products: Free and Clear sulfate free poo and condish, Theraneem Sulfate Free Shampoo/Condish, Unscented SSCEJ, Coconut oil, Camellia oil, Argan oil
Lady Karaan, High Priestess of Hayr Tretements in the Order of Curly Crusaders
Fotki updated 10/12/10 Password: wavy
I've always been curious about this--Is a hot oil treatment considered a DT?? Thanks for all the info!!
Originally Posted by MandyCurls

It absolutely can be a DT. Most oils are emolients, which are more for moisturizing properties, so I'd consider them DTs. Grains, such as oats, etc, are proteins. YW!

Cosmetology Educator with sensitivities, eczema and Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Ingredients Maven
Products: Free and Clear sulfate free poo and condish, Theraneem Sulfate Free Shampoo/Condish, Unscented SSCEJ, Coconut oil, Camellia oil, Argan oil
Lady Karaan, High Priestess of Hayr Tretements in the Order of Curly Crusaders
Fotki updated 10/12/10 Password: wavy
Thank you for posting this useful information!
I am planning on doing a pt next days and I have a few questions.
First of all, which of the following is better: to make a protein treatment yourself, using eggs, mayonnaise, etc, or buying pure keratin and mix a small amount of it with your conditioner and apply?
Secondly, how often is it necessary to make a protein treatment? Once a month? Twice a month? How can I figure out how much protein does my hair need? (I had my hair dyed last week and as far as I know I need some protein right now)
Furthermore, as it is the first time I am going to do a pt, how long should I leave it, 1 hour as suggested above or less?
Finally, should I be afraid of pt? I've read some posts where people complained about making hair look dull or relaxing curls. Can a pt damage hair instead of making it better?

Here is what I plan to do:
Co-wash as usual (or should I use a sulfate-free shampoo instead?), use a microfiber towel to dry a little my hair (or should I use some other type of towel?), apply protein treatment for 1 hour, rinse out and apply a deep treatment for another 1 hour, rinse out and apply my curl cream / flax seed gel and allow air dry as usual (or should I blow dry instead for this time?)

Me and my curls thank you so much in advance
GCG (Greek Curly Girl) since May 2010
3a/3b (although I have some really annoying straight pieces underneath), medium texture, normal porosity, medium to low elasticity

Condish: Korres Acacia Milk Conditioner
Styling: Korres Bamboo Styling Cream for Curly Hair
Currently experimenting with lots of organic cone-free & sulfate-free products

Skia ..means "The Shadow" in Greek
Thank you for posting this useful information!
I am planning on doing a pt next days and I have a few questions.
First of all, which of the following is better: to make a protein treatment yourself, using eggs, mayonnaise, etc, or buying pure keratin and mix a small amount of it with your conditioner and apply?
Secondly, how often is it necessary to make a protein treatment? Once a month? Twice a month? How can I figure out how much protein does my hair need? (I had my hair dyed last week and as far as I know I need some protein right now)
Furthermore, as it is the first time I am going to do a pt, how long should I leave it, 1 hour as suggested above or less?
Finally, should I be afraid of pt? I've read some posts where people complained about making hair look dull or relaxing curls. Can a pt damage hair instead of making it better?

Here is what I plan to do:
Co-wash as usual (or should I use a sulfate-free shampoo instead?), use a microfiber towel to dry a little my hair (or should I use some other type of towel?), apply protein treatment for 1 hour, rinse out and apply a deep treatment for another 1 hour, rinse out and apply my curl cream / flax seed gel and allow air dry as usual (or should I blow dry instead for this time?)

Me and my curls thank you so much in advance
Originally Posted by Skia

Hi Skia! Let me answer your questions as best I can.

First of all, personally I think natural ingredients can work just as well as others, though for convenience sake I use conventional protein treatments instead. I don't buy keratin to add to conditioners, I buy conditioners that were made to be used as protein treatments. Sallys has a good KPac knock off that would be CG to use for this.

How often you PT depends on your hair. You just have to learn to listen to it. If you regularly color your hair (especially since you just did it) then yes, you probably need a protein treatment. A good starting point is once a week, with the addition of a second treatment if you don't see good results, working your way to maybe every other week or once a month. As you do these your hair will get in much better shape and you probably will be able to cut back. Me, not so much....I regularly do PT's about once a week, sometimes depending on time every other week, but I also use a protein treatment in the shower a time or two as well. If you're not using heat then you can absolutely leave on an hour, but if you have less time than that available then don't feel bad, any amount of time it's left on you'll get some good benefits from it. It's all up to you.

Don't be afraid to PT, as long as you start off small. When people complain of dull curls, or having them fall flat or feel dry that's the crunchiness I spoke of, you can follow with deep moisture and that will help. Just use caution, and don't over do it. You can always do another if you need to. Hair is made of protein, so imo it's not going to damage it, but there are some protein sensitive people out there who can only use certain types of proteins or can only do a little protein. If you're concerned then try just a moisturizing treatment first before you move to protein. All curly hair needs moisture!

I don't CO wash, other than with CJDFCC or the occasional No Poo, but I would think a CO wash would be fine. I usually low poo with non sulfate shampoos, at least in summer. The rest of the way you want to do it is fine, and if you don't want to blow dry it and just let it air dry like usual that's fine too. Air drying is actually better for your hair anyway. I like to diffuse to get my waves to form better, but I usually try to give my hair a break when I can from the dryer, and I air dry as much as possible prior to diffusing. A microfiber towel would be fine, but I would add that you want to towel dry prior to applying your DT too. That way you get all the moisture you can from the DT.

HTH and you're very welcome!

Cosmetology Educator with sensitivities, eczema and Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Ingredients Maven
Products: Free and Clear sulfate free poo and condish, Theraneem Sulfate Free Shampoo/Condish, Unscented SSCEJ, Coconut oil, Camellia oil, Argan oil
Lady Karaan, High Priestess of Hayr Tretements in the Order of Curly Crusaders
Fotki updated 10/12/10 Password: wavy
Rymorg2 thank you sooo much!
You encouraged me to make my first pt tomorrow. I was only making a dt once a week and always thought that something was missing.
And now that you mention it, I never towel dried my hair before applying dt and I was always wondering why haven't I noticed any great changes, after leaving dt for over 2 hours
I think I will make a pt first and follow with a dt, because I don't want my hair smell like mayo or egg
GCG (Greek Curly Girl) since May 2010
3a/3b (although I have some really annoying straight pieces underneath), medium texture, normal porosity, medium to low elasticity

Condish: Korres Acacia Milk Conditioner
Styling: Korres Bamboo Styling Cream for Curly Hair
Currently experimenting with lots of organic cone-free & sulfate-free products

Skia ..means "The Shadow" in Greek
Rymorg2 thank you sooo much!
You encouraged me to make my first pt tomorrow. I was only making a dt once a week and always thought that something was missing.
And now that you mention it, I never towel dried my hair before applying dt and I was always wondering why haven't I noticed any great changes, after leaving dt for over 2 hours
I think I will make a pt first and follow with a dt, because I don't want my hair smell like mayo or egg
Originally Posted by Skia
YW! Let me know how it turns out!

Cosmetology Educator with sensitivities, eczema and Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Ingredients Maven
Products: Free and Clear sulfate free poo and condish, Theraneem Sulfate Free Shampoo/Condish, Unscented SSCEJ, Coconut oil, Camellia oil, Argan oil
Lady Karaan, High Priestess of Hayr Tretements in the Order of Curly Crusaders
Fotki updated 10/12/10 Password: wavy
I want to say thanks for posting this because I have been avoiding proteins like the plague!! But since I have medium to fine hair I really want to try one. I remember seeing redcelticurls' blog or something and seeing a picture before and after a protein treatment, and it made such a difference. I can't wait!!!!
That's a great post. And wow, your hair and mine are so alike (ie quck to snap and dry and color-treated).

I remember reading that if I snapped right off, I needed moisture, not protein. But you say protein (and moisture, cause I'm dry).

THANKS.
3a3b dry, dyed --newly "banged"
Natural since 11/25/09 (Miami)

Shine & Spring w/ Sweet Curls Elixirs!
Curl Junkie Conditions!
Re:coil ROCKS!

~CJ Protein Tx
; BEE-U-Ti-Ful Deep Condish
~S&C; SMasters Method; Pixie-curling
Dumping clumps for VOLUME!
http://public.fotki.com/MirCurls/


Marchioness Mir, Magister of Moisturization & Mystic of the Lofty Crown in the Order of the Curly Crusaders
thank you so much for posting this! i've finally gotten to the point where i'm kind of wrapping my head around everything and getting a really good handle on my hair.
this post is great and really explains the whole protein thing really really well!
2c/3a
somewhere between fine and medium texture
average porosity underneath, fairly high porosity in the canopy



cowash: Suave Tropical Coconut
rinse-out: GFTN, One-C
styling: LALSG, BRHG, EcoStyler

Thanks so much for posting this!! I already knew my hair needed massive amounts of protein (fine, thin, and porous), but didn't follow up with a DT last time.

Is it ok to use a PT twice in the same week? Mine was pretty hardcore in terms of protein containing ingredients, made of avocado, egg, soy sauce (sounds weird, but I read on LHC that it's a hydrolized protein so actually better than the others), mayo, coconut oil, and a bit of honey. Left it on for an hour, co-washed and conditioned as normal, and my hair was SO soft afterward! I'm guessing that means my hair loves protein?

Also, how long should I leave it in next time? I think it was right around an hour last time, is it ok to leave it in longer if I have the time?
dylinn25 likes this.
Jessica, proud mama to Hunter (9-18-09)
3a/F/ii, high porosity

Products
Co-wash: Suave Naturals Tropical Coconut, V05 Volumizing
Conditioner: AOGPB, Garnier Sleek and Shine
Leave in: Suave Naturals Tropical coconut
Gel: LA Looks Mega hold, Ecostyler Black, SOTC with shea butter/cocoa butter/sweet almond oil
Off-day spritz: Lavender mist
Hair likes Obscene amounts of protein
Hair dislikes
Too much oil

http://public.fotki.com/OperaTeacherMom/hair-going-cg/


CG since 5/8/10
I want to say thanks for posting this because I have been avoiding proteins like the plague!! But since I have medium to fine hair I really want to try one. I remember seeing redcelticurls' blog or something and seeing a picture before and after a protein treatment, and it made such a difference. I can't wait!!!!
Originally Posted by Lollipop

I'm glad! Let me know how it goes and you're welcome too!

Cosmetology Educator with sensitivities, eczema and Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Ingredients Maven
Products: Free and Clear sulfate free poo and condish, Theraneem Sulfate Free Shampoo/Condish, Unscented SSCEJ, Coconut oil, Camellia oil, Argan oil
Lady Karaan, High Priestess of Hayr Tretements in the Order of Curly Crusaders
Fotki updated 10/12/10 Password: wavy
That's a great post. And wow, your hair and mine are so alike (ie quck to snap and dry and color-treated).

I remember reading that if I snapped right off, I needed moisture, not protein. But you say protein (and moisture, cause I'm dry).

THANKS.
Originally Posted by MirCurls

Thanks Mir! Yep our hair is very very similar. IMO that quick to snap off is protein related. Besides, with fine hair it can't hurt at least in my case.

Cosmetology Educator with sensitivities, eczema and Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Ingredients Maven
Products: Free and Clear sulfate free poo and condish, Theraneem Sulfate Free Shampoo/Condish, Unscented SSCEJ, Coconut oil, Camellia oil, Argan oil
Lady Karaan, High Priestess of Hayr Tretements in the Order of Curly Crusaders
Fotki updated 10/12/10 Password: wavy
thank you so much for posting this! i've finally gotten to the point where i'm kind of wrapping my head around everything and getting a really good handle on my hair.
this post is great and really explains the whole protein thing really really well!
Originally Posted by emthefantastical

Thanks Em, glad I could help!

Cosmetology Educator with sensitivities, eczema and Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Ingredients Maven
Products: Free and Clear sulfate free poo and condish, Theraneem Sulfate Free Shampoo/Condish, Unscented SSCEJ, Coconut oil, Camellia oil, Argan oil
Lady Karaan, High Priestess of Hayr Tretements in the Order of Curly Crusaders
Fotki updated 10/12/10 Password: wavy
Thanks so much for posting this!! I already knew my hair needed massive amounts of protein (fine, thin, and porous), but didn't follow up with a DT last time.

Is it ok to use a PT twice in the same week? Mine was pretty hardcore in terms of protein containing ingredients, made of avocado, egg, soy sauce (sounds weird, but I read on LHC that it's a hydrolized protein so actually better than the others), mayo, coconut oil, and a bit of honey. Left it on for an hour, co-washed and conditioned as normal, and my hair was SO soft afterward! I'm guessing that means my hair loves protein?

Also, how long should I leave it in next time? I think it was right around an hour last time, is it ok to leave it in longer if I have the time?
Originally Posted by OperaDiva

I don't see the problem leaving it in longer if you have the time. You can do multiple treatments, but I'd make sure your next one is lighter probably. And definitely follow with moisture!

Cosmetology Educator with sensitivities, eczema and Seborrheic Dermatitis.
Ingredients Maven
Products: Free and Clear sulfate free poo and condish, Theraneem Sulfate Free Shampoo/Condish, Unscented SSCEJ, Coconut oil, Camellia oil, Argan oil
Lady Karaan, High Priestess of Hayr Tretements in the Order of Curly Crusaders
Fotki updated 10/12/10 Password: wavy
Ah, thanks so much!! I have fine hair, so I think the next time I am at Sally's I will get a PT and DT.

Wait, Sally's would carry those, right?
curly hair and proud (:

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