40 volume or bleach to lighten curls

I'm going to get some highlights.

I've been having my hair colored (to cover very stubborn gray that starting rejecting RC's deposit-only color) with Artego Cream and a 10 Volume developer. I'm super-careful for a few days after, and the color becomes slightly less monochromatic (which is good) but holds onto the grays.

When I went to get my hair colored Wednesday, I booked to get two colors done instead on just the one. However, my stylist said he always does one color all over and highlights afterward. He didn't have enough time to do both though.

There's nothing like time for my brain to cook something over, so here's my thoughts. Why would he use 10 Volume on my hair followed by 40 Volume on some of the same areas? Wouldn't that really damage those hairs?

I checked with my DH's friend who is a stylist, and he says only bleach will penetrate already colored hair to do highlights.

The whole reason I was interested in highlights was to make my hair less monochromatic and less obvious that it was colored. But I'm thinking I'm close to frying it.

Do you think the guy who dyed my hair and wants to highlight it separately (I had a stylist back when I was styling my hair straight who used to apply two colors in foils, one beside the other, all at once) is doing a best practice? Or could it be because he charges $80 for base color (even root touch ups) and $140-165 for highlights so breaking it apart makes it financially more desireable?

And do I have to use bleach to lighten my colored hair at this point? And which is gentler--bleach or 40 volume?
2b w/ some 3a
product tester geek
In my opinion putting on dye with the intention of bleaching it out later is pretty much never the right answer. I can't imagine what thought process would lead someone to conclude that's the best thing to do in one sitting.

I'm not a stylist though, just a person with logic.

Peroxide will be less damaging than peroxide + bleach. ColorFix might be even better, but it only gets out dye, not any natural pigment that is left, and since the base color contained peroxide, removing it can leave some strange light colors underneath. It's usually needed to follow up with a lighter deposit-only color after.
In my opinion putting on dye with the intention of bleaching it out later is pretty much never the right answer. I can't imagine what thought process would lead someone to conclude that's the best thing to do in one sitting.
Originally Posted by Riot Crrl
See, that's what I'd always had done and it made sense to me too. But then there's so many kits in stores now with an all-over color and an afterward highlighting wand that I wasn't sure if technology had progressed. Frankly, it's a long time to be in the chair.

Peroxide will be less damaging than peroxide + bleach. ColorFix might be even better, but it only gets out dye, not any natural pigment that is left, and since the base color contained peroxide, removing it can leave some strange light colors underneath. It's usually needed to follow up with a lighter deposit-only color after.
Originally Posted by Riot Crrl
Is the # Volume stuff peroxide? I know so much about ingredients in hair care but next to nothing about hair color. Good point about the strange colors under the base color.
2b w/ some 3a
product tester geek
My experience has been that he should be able to do both at one time. Every time I've gone in to have my hair colored, they've foiled up to 3 colors at one time...in the same amount of time it took to apply all-over color. Sure, it's more expensive to get the 3 color weave, but at least you're not doing double damage to the hair!
2B...ish
http://public.fotki.com/SunshineGrrl/ pw: drama
Products
This area is under construction as my hair type changed and nothing works well for me. I shampoo, I condition and pretty much have done nothing but chuck my hair in a messy bun for the past oh...year? Yeah, I'm that lazy.

No...going no-poo or CG does not work for me. It leaves me overconditioned and oily in a second no matter what I use, so that's not what's not working.
Is the # Volume stuff peroxide? I know so much about ingredients in hair care but next to nothing about hair color. Good point about the strange colors under the base color.
Originally Posted by laurabeth33
If it's the same stuff which I bought at Sally's to dilute for killing & whitening the mold in my shower, it's 40 volume peroxide.

Dumb me neglected to wear gloves while using this & had white fingers for about a day. And oh my it burnt!
Is the # Volume stuff peroxide? I know so much about ingredients in hair care but next to nothing about hair color. Good point about the strange colors under the base color.
Originally Posted by laurabeth33
If it's the same stuff which I bought at Sally's to dilute for killing & whitening the mold in my shower, it's 40 volume peroxide.

Dumb me neglected to wear gloves while using this & had white fingers for about a day. And oh my it burnt!
Originally Posted by lazy loops
Ooooohhhh...that's a good idea. I'll have to pass that one on to my dad. He's using straight bleach right now and makes the house smell like a over chlorinated poolhouse! I think it's been a while since he cleaned it.

But yes, any volume developer is a peroxide to the best of my limited knowledge. I think it's a crap shoot as to whether 10 volume or 40 volume is worse. 10 volume will have to stay on your hair longer and opens up the hairshaft to damage for a longer amount of time. 40 volume lifts color quickly, but leaves hair cuticles extremely rough from the fast lifting.
2B...ish
http://public.fotki.com/SunshineGrrl/ pw: drama
Products
This area is under construction as my hair type changed and nothing works well for me. I shampoo, I condition and pretty much have done nothing but chuck my hair in a messy bun for the past oh...year? Yeah, I'm that lazy.

No...going no-poo or CG does not work for me. It leaves me overconditioned and oily in a second no matter what I use, so that's not what's not working.
If it's the same stuff which I bought at Sally's to dilute for killing & whitening the mold in my shower, it's 40 volume peroxide.

Dumb me neglected to wear gloves while using this & had white fingers for about a day. And oh my it burnt!
Originally Posted by lazy loops
Ooooohhhh...that's a good idea. I'll have to pass that one on to my dad. He's using straight bleach right now and makes the house smell like a over chlorinated poolhouse! I think it's been a while since he cleaned it.
Originally Posted by SunshineGrrl
Here, read this... Shower mold & mildew
If it's the same stuff which I bought at Sally's to dilute for killing & whitening the mold in my shower, it's 40 volume peroxide.

Dumb me neglected to wear gloves while using this & had white fingers for about a day. And oh my it burnt!
Originally Posted by lazy loops
Ooooohhhh...that's a good idea. I'll have to pass that one on to my dad. He's using straight bleach right now and makes the house smell like a over chlorinated poolhouse! I think it's been a while since he cleaned it.
Originally Posted by SunshineGrrl
Here, read this... Shower mold & mildew
Originally Posted by lazy loops
Nice! Sounds like what we've got here...except my dad did the tiling job. The reason he's spraying it down with bleach is because the grout is crumbling. Uh...wouldn't you think it's time to either reseal the grout or dig it out and replace it? Nooooo...he just sprays bleach all over everything.

This is the same man who has mushrooms (yes, actual fungus mushrooms) on the ceiling because the roof has leaked and he hasn't fixed it well enough and hasn't ripped out the sheetrock. Duh, man...we're all gonna die here! Uh, I feel obligated to say this isn't in the bathroom...this is in the laundry room.

Sorry to the OP...I don't know how I get on these tangents.
2B...ish
http://public.fotki.com/SunshineGrrl/ pw: drama
Products
This area is under construction as my hair type changed and nothing works well for me. I shampoo, I condition and pretty much have done nothing but chuck my hair in a messy bun for the past oh...year? Yeah, I'm that lazy.

No...going no-poo or CG does not work for me. It leaves me overconditioned and oily in a second no matter what I use, so that's not what's not working.
dont do it!!!

there is sooo much wrong with his "im going to permanently color your hair and then go back over it and highlight what i already did" method.
its going to overprocess and you may not even get the color(s) you really want that way. and then what if that happens? hes going to put more color on that! dont do it!
if he cant do it all at once (various colors in foils) then dont go!
dont do it!!!

there is sooo much wrong with his "im going to permanently color your hair and then go back over it and highlight what i already did" method.
its going to overprocess and you may not even get the color(s) you really want that way. and then what if that happens? hes going to put more color on that! dont do it!
if he cant do it all at once (various colors in foils) then dont go!
Originally Posted by subbrock
I second this motion. If they're not skilled enough to make it work all at once with different foils, they probably shouldn't be working on your hair.
2B...ish
http://public.fotki.com/SunshineGrrl/ pw: drama
Products
This area is under construction as my hair type changed and nothing works well for me. I shampoo, I condition and pretty much have done nothing but chuck my hair in a messy bun for the past oh...year? Yeah, I'm that lazy.

No...going no-poo or CG does not work for me. It leaves me overconditioned and oily in a second no matter what I use, so that's not what's not working.
Mine was always colored and highlighted at the same time with alternating foils. Now I did have a stylist once who did a really good job and every once in awhile she would color it all over and then do the highlights. Because of my gray, it seemed like it was necessary just once in awhile to get the color balanced. I want to think she just used 2 colors and not anything with heavy bleach, but I know nothing about color, so I don't know for sure. I know it never damaged my hair.

For awhile now, I haven't been getting highlights because a previous stylist overprocessed them and it damaged my hair, so I've been gradually getting that cut off. The damage is about gone now, but after that experience, I'm very hesitant to ever get the highlights done again, unless it could be done without bleach. I know nothing about hair color so I don't know what they can do now.
http://public.fotki.com/msgiblet/ - pw: gibber -- Pics Added 7/10/11
Fine, Thick, Normal Porosity, Normal Elasticity

Countess Balashi of Divi Beach in the Order of the Curly Crusaders

If I'm Going To Have A Bad Hair Day, It Might As Well Be In Aruba!

laurabeth - my stylist does lowlights & highlights at the same time. I'm trying to cut back on the highlights, because some of my hair is so freaking damaged that it won't even curl anymore, plus I've been wanting to blend in the grays & grow out my darker hair a bit.

Now, my new growth is not totally gray yet - I just have streaks of gray here & there, so the following totally worked for me... The last time I went she did 2/3 of my head in lowlights that matched my natural color & only 1/3 (mainly on top, although many were scattered throughout my head) in highlights, plus I had her do finer highlights (not chunky ones). I was very pleased with it, & it seemed MUCH less damaging overall.
Discovered nc.com in 09/2003

2b~~fine texture~~normal porosity (except for highlights, which are high)~~normal elasticity~~medium density


Shampoo: Still use sulfates, but only on roots
Rinse out: Deva One C, JC Too Shea, Original Sprouts Deep Conditioner
Curl Enhancers: KCCC; JC Rocking Ringlets, JC Spiralicious, & Confident Coils
Styler: BRHG (over any and all curl enhancers) - this is the one product that I never change - absolute HG!!


I




My colourist does lowlights and colours my roots at the same time. At first I couldn't figure what it was going to turn out like but it looks fine. Then every month I go and have just the roots done and every 3rd time get the lowlights as well. I do find that after the lowlights my hair is disgustingly dry but now from this site have learned to DT before and after; even doing that it takes a week for my hair to decide to co-operate. Lots of hairbands that week.
between Botticelli & Corkscrew curly-very thick, coarse hair
http://public.fotki.com/notty6



When I get to be 'Queen of the World', I will absolish WIND!!!
Now, my new growth is not totally gray yet - I just have streaks of gray here & there, so the following totally worked for me... The last time I went she did 2/3 of my head in lowlights that matched my natural color & only 1/3 (mainly on top, although many were scattered throughout my head) in highlights, plus I had her do finer highlights (not chunky ones). I was very pleased with it, & it seemed MUCH less damaging overall.
Originally Posted by kjwavy
My colourist does lowlights and colours my roots at the same time. At first I couldn't figure what it was going to turn out like but it looks fine. Then every month I go and have just the roots done and every 3rd time get the lowlights as well. I do find that after the lowlights my hair is disgustingly dry but now from this site have learned to DT before and after; even doing that it takes a week for my hair to decide to co-operate. Lots of hairbands that week.
Originally Posted by Notty
So, if I'm getting this right, your stylists use foils to touch up your roots in your base color and then picks out some areas (fine areas, not chunky) to apply a lighter color than the base color and foils it at the same time as doing the base color.

See, that's what my stylist did back home in my straighty days. She applied some base color to big sections and foiled them and then applied some lighter color (I called it strawberry almost-blonde) to smaller sections amongst the big sections, mainly around my face and the top of my head.

The more I look at what my new stylist is wanting to do, the more I thing he's just going to use 40 Volume and a toner to get the lighter, highlighted pieces to the desired color rather than depositing a lighter color than the base color like my previous stylist.

And for what my new guy charges (see above), I'm really wondering if this is a money thing.
2b w/ some 3a
product tester geek
Is the # Volume stuff peroxide? I know so much about ingredients in hair care but next to nothing about hair color. Good point about the strange colors under the base color.
Yes, the developer that comes in different volumes is peroxide. It can be used alone or mixed with bleach ("lightening powder"). When mixed with bleach it can lift more levels than it can alone, but also creates more damage.
I talked more to my DH's stylist friend, and he said that doing the base color and highlights at the same time with foils is called a "single process" because it's all happening at the same time. He said it's impossible to get good gray coverage this way because the foils get in the way. He said that with all the grays in my crown area, that I'd need two processes (covering all the gray with the base color all over then highlighting after that) like the new guy did.

Are those of you getting base color and highlights at the same time covering gray?
2b w/ some 3a
product tester geek
I talked more to my DH's stylist friend, and he said that doing the base color and highlights at the same time with foils is called a "single process" because it's all happening at the same time. He said it's impossible to get good gray coverage this way because the foils get in the way. He said that with all the grays in my crown area, that I'd need two processes (covering all the gray with the base color all over then highlighting after that) like the new guy did.

Are those of you getting base color and highlights at the same time covering gray?
Originally Posted by laurabeth33
I used to have base color all over maybe every 3rd time I got highlights because of my gray. She didn't do it every time. In between, sometimes she just did my roots and sometimes she foiled the base color and the highlights at the same time. It does eventually miss covering some of the gray and it will look like you have 3-4 different colors going on, but it really doesn't have to be base colored all over every time. Most of my gray is at my roots on the top of my head - I don't seem to have a lot elsewhere, so maybe this is why it worked for me.
http://public.fotki.com/msgiblet/ - pw: gibber -- Pics Added 7/10/11
Fine, Thick, Normal Porosity, Normal Elasticity

Countess Balashi of Divi Beach in the Order of the Curly Crusaders

If I'm Going To Have A Bad Hair Day, It Might As Well Be In Aruba!

Most of my gray is at my roots on the top of my head - I don't seem to have a lot elsewhere, so maybe this is why it worked for me.
Originally Posted by msgiblet
That's how it is for me too. Good news! Thanks for sharing, msgiblet!
2b w/ some 3a
product tester geek

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