Jonathan Torch

Jonathan Torch

Q: Help! The curls at my roots have disappeared! In the past few weeks, the curls close to my head have just fallen flat and frizzy. I've tried protein treatments, low poos, clarifying rinses, and nothing has worked. I got my hair cut about a month ago, so I don't think it's time for a trim. My hair feels pretty soft after I rinse out my conditioner, so I don't think I need a deep conditioner. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Jonathan: Cutting your hair shorter will not solve your flat, frizzy hair issues. There are many factors that are causing your hair to flatten and frizz, such as the heavy oils and silicones found in many moisturizing conditioners. These conditioners, while depositing oils and silicones that coat and weigh down the hair cuticles, do not make styling hair any easier. Give your hair a fresh break from these products and over time you will notice a huge difference in the bounce of your curls. Learn how to lift your hair off your scalp with the help of a root brush. Learn to squish curl formation with the help of Curl Keeper while your hair is wet. Learn how to support the curls on the top of your head with roller clamps when your hair starts to dry to prevent the weight of wet hair from flattening down the looser curls. Hanging your head over while diffusing your hair dry will help create a bouncier curl. If all else fails, use Tweek to add lift to the root area. The magic formula goes like this: movement creates volume. Once you have created the perfect curl formation and controlled all the frizz, start creating movement by shaking your hair around. Volume automatically appears. Avoid using products that contain heavy, greasy ingredients.

Q: I seem to get pyramid head no matter what I do. I've tried upside-down diffusing and clipping. My hair is layered. If I manage to have some height at first, in an hour or so after drying it falls flat. Any ideas? I really need some height. Otherwise the curls look nice but don't suit my face.

Jonathan: Hanging your head forward when drying your hair will always result in fullness and volume. However, that isn’t always desirable for curly hair. The pyramid look is a result of excess bulk, which is a common issue when you have thick curls. The term “layers” is used very loosely, as traditional layering techniques can cause unwanted “ledges”. If curly hair is cut too short it will not create the height you are trying to achieve. There are many advanced cutting techniques such as the “Tunnel Cut” that will control the excess bulk and transfer it to the top of your head where you need it the most. Supporting the hair on the top of your head when you are waiting for it to dry will definitely result in added volume and bounce. The problem is that most clips will flatten the curls during the drying process. Roller Jaw Clamps will support your curls without crushing them or leaving unwanted demarcations where the clamps were placed. Learning how to use Curl Keeper will give you the ability to manipulate your curls into a more controlled frizz-free curl formation. Diffusing your hair might be the final step to styling your hair.

Q: After six years of not living in a particularly dry, windy city, I'm not happy to be back at all. But, I don't have a choice of where to live right now. Suddenly, all my favorite products are not working at all. Everything I do to moisturize my hair is a failure. Yesterday, after deep conditioning my hair, it felt very good at first—for about an hour or so. Then this miserable zero humidity sucked away all the moisture in my hair and left it feeling like straw. It's horrible. It's been this way consistently for the past month ever since I moved back here. Do you have any recommendations on how to "seal in" the products in my hair so that it won't be so rough anymore (if it's at all possible)?

Jonathan: Balancing the moisture that your hair needs requires continuous readjusting. Indoor heating in winter in the northern states and Canada wreak havoc on some curlies. Humidifiers help and so do moisturizing conditioners. However, to have great styling days requires the use of the proper products that will give you control 100 percent of the time. If you rely on oils to moisturize your hair, you will never solve the problem. Moisture means wetness and dampness, both requiring water, and oil and water do not mix or blend. Products containing silicone or heavy oils will dehydrate instead of hydrating. Styling your hair with Curly Hair Solutions Curl Keeper and Silk Leave-in Conditioner will dramatically solve your dryness issues. Learning how to apply the correct amount of products with the proper preparation and leaving your hair to dry on its own will result in frizz-free controlled curls. Your curls will easily be reactivated day after day by simply running wet hands over any dry or frizzy sections.

Q: need some advice on how to use Curl Keeper. How much do I apply it? I have mid-length, coarse 3b curls.

Jonathan: Curl Keeper is an extremely effective product for eliminating frizz and defining ringlets for all curl types. You should begin by shampooing and conditioning your hair, rinsing thoroughly, then applying Slip Detangler and/or Silk Leave-in Conditioner as needed and combing through your hair. Make sure that your hair is wet before applying Curl Keeper as the water in your hair is what helps Curl Keeper distribute evenly. All frizz will be controlled from roots to ends. You can use a very generous amount of Curl Keeper as all Curly Hair Solutions products are water-based and they will never build up in your hair or make it feel greasy, sticky or crunchy. Then begin “wet styling”. All you need to do is scrunch your hair thoroughly so that sections form a strong “S” shape that will dry into ringlets. If parts of your hair require extra definition, for example, the curls framing your face, you can create a tighter ringlet by grouping small sections by hand and twisting them with your fingers. While scrunching, you should hear a loud “squishing” noise that tells you there is enough water and Curl Keeper in your hair. If you don’t hear this noise, apply more Curl Keeper or re-wet your hair. Once you have completed this step, you should try to avoid touching or moving your hair for at least 10-15 minutes. This is when your hair is most susceptible to frizz, and limiting your movement will allow your hair to dry frizz-free. After about 15 minutes, feel free to start diffusing to speed up the drying time. Flipping your head forward and diffusing from underneath is a great way to create additional volume and make your curls bouncier. You can be a bit aggressive with the diffuser at this stage to create softer, fuller curls. Once you hair is completely dry, it may feel a little stiff. This can be easily fixed by continuing to play with your hair, either with your fingers or a diffuser. Simply scrunch and touch your curls until you’re satisfied with the way it looks and feels. If you overwork a section and it begins to look frizzy it is easy to correct by wetting your fingers and smoothing down the frizzy sections to reactivate the Curl Keeper already in your hair. Your hair will dry feeling clean and frizz-free for days.

Q: I'm wondering how to "revive" my curls on the day after washing. Should I conditioner wash every day? What about after exercise (when I've put my hair in a ponytail and the curls are messed up)?

Jonathan: The best thing about Curly Hair Solutions products is that they are all water-based. This means that you can reactivate Curl Keeper by simply wetting your hands and restyling your hair allowing your curl formation to return and controlling any frizz that may occur. Curly Hair Solutions shampoos and conditioners are perfectly pH balanced and are gentle enough for everyday use; however, you can also use these products every 2-3 days for the same great results. After exercising, I would recommend using Tweek to reshape your curls, maintain volume, bounce and shine. Tweek is the perfect fit for broken hair styles or any flat spots that may have occurred while having your hair tied up during exercise. Using Tweek will also completely eliminate flyaway hair and allow your style to last for several days.

Q: Everyone I know that has naturally curly hair has a motherlode of it. But I have my hair is soooo thin, I have to make my hair "pouf" so I don't see my scalp, and it is also dry because of a bleach and dye. My hair is between a 3b and 3c. I am looking for products than can give life back to my hair, make it nice and soft but also make it look thick with nice ringlets. Any suggestions?

Jonathan: Coloring your hair is possible without causing damage. Hair color can help you tremendously, if it is done correctly. Healthy hair color allows light to reflect off the hair, not the scalp. Bleach and harsh chemicals cause hair to become fragile, losing the shine and spring. Treatment Shampoo will help restore some of the lost elasticity caused by bleaching, and over time, with regular Pure Silk Protein treatments, your curls will have more shine and a noticeable increase in volume. You are very lucky that your hair can curl. Women with fine, straight hair go through damaging permanent wave processing just for a little bit of precious volume. Be sure to check out several colouring options before you resort to bleaching your hair.

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