We are in the office cackling at the candidness of the seasoned personal care chemist Steve Miller from Gable’s Cosmetics. As hair care enthusiasts, we love learning everything about the beauty industry from the lab to the shelf. Everyone wants to know what are the newest and hottest products that will transform your curls at the lowest costs. It seems that every month a brand is releasing a new collection with what appears to be a simple change in fragrance or packaging; sometimes that is the case and other times it is not. The FDA only mandates that brands list their ingredients in the order of predominance, so the quality of the ingredients, how the product is created, and the various proportions of each ingredient are not disclosed in order to protect trade secrets. 

The FDA only mandates that brands list their ingredients in the order of predominance, so the quality of the ingredients, how the product is created, and the various proportions of each ingredient are not disclosed in order to protect trade secrets. 

I have always been intrigued by the relationship between the research and development department and the marketing department, especially since it seems like certain products consistently miss the mark. Soon we will be publishing an article from Sister Scientist helping us to understanding that nexus. Last year we had the pleasure of meeting experienced product formulator and Owner of Obia Natural Hair Care, Obia Ewah, and I had the opportunity to ask her a few questions. To my surprise I learned that the lubricity of a product is not an indicator of its effectiveness. Something can work on a molecular level even without our beloved slip, but product formulating is about creating an effective product that also meets the consumer’s expectations, which is exactly what Miller is discussing in the video below. Understanding science is valid but formulating for the brand’s requests and consumers’ preferences is where the money lies.

In the video Miller touches on various ingredients like sulfates, cocamidopropyl betaine, mineral oil, silicones, fragrance, salt, botanicals, dyes, and more. He also discusses various offshoot brands that were birthed from lawsuits. This video is absolutely fascinating and I would love to get your thoughts.

The Verdict on Silicones

Still uncertain about silicones? His thoughts are summed at starting at 6:42. You have to respect his honesty.

Did you learn something you didn’t know before about your products? 

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