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-   -   How to determine: protein craving or sensitive?(

AnsleyBirch13 10-28-2013 03:58 PM

How to determine: protein craving or sensitive?
I am a 3b/c, pretty sure I'm high porosity, and have fine hair. How can I determine if my hair is protein craving or sensitive? Do I just have to experiment, or is there any way to tell?

Geek_Chic 10-28-2013 06:14 PM

Protein needs are a spectrum more than simply craving or sensitive. It's called protein /moisture balance for a reason. Coarse hair typically has more than enough protein so it usually craves moisture. However that doesn't mean it never needs protein, and even when it's needing a bit of protein, it may only respond well to certain types. Fine hair typically needs protein for strength. However that doesn't mean it never needs moisture. Medium hair is in the middle as far as protein needs and requires moisture in balance with the protein.

Porous hair generally (but not always) has been damaged from heat or dye or brushing and needs protein to fill in damaged areas. Low porosity hair has problems accepting moisture, so protein can be problematic if you don't tailor application technique to suit the low porosity hair (apply to warm, damp hair, and perhaps assist absorption with gentle heat). Medium porosity hair accepts and retains moisture well, so again, it needs a balance of moisture and protein. As an example, my hair is fine but not high porosity and I use protein on wash days. Protein is always in my cowash, in my ro and/or li depending on the dewpoints, and I still need a pt every couple of weeks.

If you're sure your hair is both fine and highly porous, you should be able to tolerate a good amount of protein. Because you're highly porous, you'll need to balance that protein with some moisture, because high porosity hair can dry out quickly (holes in the cuticle mean it doesn't retain moisture well). You'll need to experiment with how much and how often though.

These links should be helpful:
Protein vs Moisture Pittsburgh Curly

Somewhat technical but worth reading:
Science-y Hair Blog: More About Protein

sixelamy 10-28-2013 06:35 PM

I know my hair needs protein if my curls are falling limp. I don't think I've ever over-protein'ed my hair. If your hair feels dry after using protein, then you don't need it. However, using protein over buildup leaves me feeling dry-ish.

AnsleyBirch13 10-28-2013 07:31 PM

I've never colored my hair and I've only used heat on it a handful of times, so I guess it's just has high porosity. It may be normal though, I'm still not to sure on that yet. I do know that it dries in about an hour without product, and that's supposed to be high porosity (or so I was told). Thank you so much for the help, I'll definitely look at the links!

Geek_Chic 10-28-2013 08:11 PM

Drying in an hour with no product does sound like high porosity. Some people are naturally high porosity. Go figure. Are you removing any water with a towel, t-shirt, or blow dryer when you do your drying time determination? If so, that test needs to be run from soaking wet hair, and allowed to completely air dry (no scrunching out the water). Drape something around your shoulders to keep you from getting wet from the drips.

If you want a scientific evaulation, consider a hair analysis from Live Curly Live Free, Goose Footprints, or Komaza.

Live Curly Live Free | the naturally curly hair experts
GoosefootPrints on Etsy
Hair Analysis

AnsleyBirch13 10-28-2013 08:23 PM

I know for sure I didn't blow dry it. I'm trying to remember if removed water any other way (like using a tshirt or something). I don't think so, but I was planing on testing it again just to make sure, so I'll make sure not to. For as long as I can remember, my hair has always had a fast dry time

AnsleyBirch13 10-28-2013 08:25 PM

I've been reading a lot about Colorful neutral protein filler. I've read up a little on it, and I'm thinking about trying it. It's only $3, so it's not a huge waste if it doesn't work. Do you know anything about it?

Geek_Chic 10-28-2013 08:42 PM

CNPF is a liquid product. I haven't used it since I went CG, but it can be added to conditioners and deep protein treatments, as well as stylers (gels, mousses) to increase or add protein. Some even use it as part of a spray. Many here like it.

CNPF is fairly potent as far as protein content, so go easy at first. If you're adding it to a product, just add a few drops, and add it to what you're using that day, not the whole bottle. (Adding it to the entire bottle could mess up the preservative and cause the product to go bad). If you need more, you can always increase what you use. Better to need more than having to rehab crunchy /straw-like, overproteined hair.

AnsleyBirch13 10-28-2013 09:05 PM

Is it not a CG approved product? I'd like something CG approved. Do you have any recommendations?

Geek_Chic 10-28-2013 09:19 PM

Sorry for the confusion. CNPF is silicone and sulfate free, so yes it's CG approved, and it doesn't have any ingredients that should cause buildup. I just haven't picked it up after going CG, and only used it a time or two before CG. If you're interested, definitely try it.

If you want another option, the pt linked in my siggy is both cheap and easily customizable. However, it's a "sometimes" thing (a deep protein treatment I use every 1-2 weeks) as opposed to something you can add to any product.

If you'd like proteiny conditioners, Ion Effective Care, Ion Reconstructor, and Cure Care are some Sally's options. Nexxus Emergencee, Aphogee 2-Step, and Joico K-pak are commercial pt options. K-pak does have mineral oil though, which some people's hair doesn't care for.

This was a recent pt thread:

If you do a search, there have been several threads about CG products from Sally's. Look for posters with similar hair properties and scope out what they use. Oftentimes those products will also work decently well on your hair too.

AnsleyBirch13 10-28-2013 09:35 PM

You've been so helpful! Thank you so much!!:)

KellyofCurls 11-15-2013 08:43 AM

I did a protein treatment last night and my hair seems to have lots of life in it. I posted a pic in my thread over on the "3" board under My Curly Girl Journey thread. It looks a little frizzy and crazy poofy because I went to bed with wet hair. I'm about to hop in the shower and see about taming this beast. However, it doesn't feel dry or anything so I'm hoping protein is good for me.

sixelamy 11-15-2013 10:35 AM

Just a note about protein, because people are so darn afraid of it, and I don't really understand why.

If you hair bounces up or feels soft and nice after a PT, it is doing what it's supposed to. If it feels dry and straw-like, stop immediately.

HOWEVER.. just because you need it now, you may not need it in a year or two. Just like if it turns your hair to straw now, that doesn't mean you won't need one in the future. Get to know your hair.

KellyofCurls 11-15-2013 11:45 AM

Right now, I think my hair loves protein. I love what it did for my hair! It doesn't feel lifeless and flat and greasy anymore. I did IAGirl's protein treatment last night & cowashed with Loreal's Evercurl Cleansing Condition last night. I didn't read the directions where it said to use 8-10 pumps! eek. So I only used a few pumps last night.

This morning I used quite a bit more of it and it worked much better! I didn't use anything else for fear of more lifeless/greasy hair. And I used some FSG very sparingly. Hair looks great!!!

Also another big plus, is that this morning I barely had any hairball in the drain!! WOOT! That's the whole reason I started this journey! I had a hairball big enough to clog the drain.

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