Redken is showing long hair
in a variety of colors this fall.
Every fall, Stanley of New York's Christopher Stanley Salon has curly clients who come in to get shorter cuts.
"I always work seasonally with curly haired people," Stanley says. "We go shorter in fall and winter and longer in spring and summer."
Should you choose to go shorter, there are plenty of options for curly and kinky hair -- from choppy bobs to short cropped cuts to sexy layers.'"I approach their hair differently depending on the time of year -- both the cut and the color," Stanley says.
Stanley likes to do graduated layers in the back, with short tendrils around the face -- tendrils that would "drive them nuts" during the summer when the humidity is high.
"Shape is raging back," says "Curly Girl" author Lorraine Massey of Devachan Salon. "We're seeing uneven curls -- shorter shapes with some odd pieces that still look very natural."
Redken creative consultant Rodney Cutler of New York's Cutler Salon, who worked on Vogue's fall "Fashion on Demand" trend report, says hot shorter styles include choppy bobs and the "French Fringe" -- a soft wispy cut. These cuts that work well on curly, wavy and straight hair.
"Bobs have been around since Cleopatra," Cutler says. "This new bob is piecey and choppy, and allows the natural texture to take control. If your hair is wavy, let it be wavy. If it's curly, let it be curly. You don't have to blow it dead straight. It's a strong, fun, low-maintenance haircut."
Curl expert Christo of Christo Fifth Avenue in New York is doing long bangs for fall with plenty of angles that frame the face and accentuate the curls.
"It's very sexy, very feminine, with a lot of movement," Christo says. "A lot of people with curly hair think they have to stick with hair that's all one length. I want them to know there are a lot more options. Your style is about your face and what you can carry. I don't want to create fashion victims."
Leah Remacle of Avalon Salon Suites in Omaha, Nebraska, agrees that bangs will hot for curly hair this fall.
"They can look fun and sassy around the face," Remacle says.
Austin stylist Ethan Shaw of Anne Kelso Salon believes there's a trend toward more adventurous cuts for curls.
"The shattered edges and funky layers that have been dominating straight hair styles are now translating into less 'perfect' shapes for curly hair, using individual curl length to add interest and dimension," Shaw says.
While shorter cuts are hot, long curls are always in. The look this fall is looser curls, with a strong center or side part, Cutler says.
"There's an element of hippy chic to it," he says. "It's flatter at the root and curlier toward the middle and bottom."
For very textured hair, "Textured Tresses" author Diane Da Costa says she's seeing a lot of people cutting off their locks, opting instead for short, sassy cropped cuts.
Many designers showed various forms
of curly hair in their fall shows,
including, from top, Sari Gueron,
Atong, John Galliano and Tuleh.
Toronto stylist Jason Kearns says haircolor is an important accessory for curly hair, adding richness and dimension to those curls and kinks. This fall, rich shades of brown can add richness— from rich mochas, chocolate browns, cinnamons and chestnuts—are popular.
"Fall seems to dictate darker, warmer colors," says Amie Zimmerman of Dirty LIttle Secret in Portland, Ore.
Subtle brown highlights are in, while chunky, in-your-face highlights are out.
"I don't think anybody's hair should ever shout," Kearns says.
Massey says she's doing a lot of multi-dimensional color, with four or five shades weaved into the ribbons -- shades ranging from caramel to burgundy. Da Costa likes dark plums and shades of chocolate, with dark blonde highlights.
Blondes will have darker roots or low-lights to give the hair dimension. Cooler, white blonde is out for fall because it tends to make people look more washed out. And the harsh peroxide can dry out curly hair, making it look dull and damaged.
"Blondes want to be blondes," Christo says. "We're trying to make sure they're smart blondes."
Red is also hot for fall, but red shapes take more upkeep to keep the color vibrant.
"Anyone looking to do a red should come home with a good color-support shampoo," Zimmerman says.
Another option is a glaze -- either colorless or with a color. It is a process that can enhance the color, seal the cuticle (reducing frizz) and boost the shine without damaging peroxides.
"Glazes are less damaging because they don't have caustic chemicals," Stanley says.
Whatever cut or color you opt choose come fall, it is the time to get your hair back into condition after a a summer of sun, salt and chlorine. It's time to start a good regimen of deep conditioning treatments at least every two weeks. Cut back on shampooing—no more than twice a week—and make sure the shampoo you're using is moisturizing and gentle.
"It's time to de-summerize the hair," Christo says.