Spring is truly in the hair. I have been a hairdresser for 28 years, and I feel it more now then ever before. A tidal wave, if you will, of curly girls are coming out from all over this Curlywurld. But we still have a lot of work a’head. We are still trying to understand this organic force of nature that is above us, and sometimes truly beyond us.Not to worry, as long as we stick together and be a part of the change.This world will be ours and curldomination will prevail .

Q: You, The Hair DresserSince you’re a leading stylist in the world of curly hair, I’d love to know some of the curly hair trends. It seems like stylists are always focused on growing curls out. But I’d love to cut my hair really short, and I need some ideas. I want a funky, Bohemian but current Afro for 3b to 3c hair. If you have any images, I’d love to see them. 

Lorraine: I agree with you. I love seeing shorter shapes- – just shapes in general. I have never met you so to be realistic, I can’t send you images. The truth is that it’s all about you and only you. Take a good long look in the mirror. Look at your hair right now as it is. Then imagine it shorter. Make sure you are honoring its naturalness. Also be sure to cut it dry, whatever you decide to do. And remember less is more at first.

Q: I’ve been following a no-poo, conditioner wash-only routine for a week now, and it seems that my hair is getting less curly. I’m pretty bummed because I wanted to have beautiful curly hair, but I think I might need to go back to straightening it. I’m not sure I’m doing your routine right. On days that I don’t conditioner wash, my hair looks especially dull and stringy. Is it OK to conditioner wash everyday?

Massey: Straight BackwardsGirlfriend, don’t even go there with the straighteming thing. Are you threatening me or your hair? I think you’re not cleansing your hair properly. Maybe you’re using too much product? Make sure you rinse thoroughly. It sounds like you have a low frizz factor. Yes, it is OK to use conditoner to cleanse as long as you’re massaging and removing dirt particles and buildup from the scalp. Get out of the shower and scrunch upwards. Apply B’Leave-In first and then Angell. Clip hair at the roots and do not disturb until thoroughly dry. Loosen gel cast and your authentic self will prevail.

Q: After reading “Curly Girl” a few weeks ago, I decided to stop shampooing. My hair already feels healthier and looks better than it did when I was shampooing every day. My only problem is my mom is convinced that it’s gross to not wash my hair. She’s stick straight, of course. She just doesn’t get it. How do I explain to her that you don’t need to wash your hair everyday.

Massey: Mommy DearestWhen you are first telling someone you are not pooing your hair with detergents, you, of course, will get a reaction because shampoo is all we know. It is our only (brainwashed”> form of reference. It’s what we think clean is supposed to be. Remember: You are not washing laundry here. You are cleansing the most beautiful, priceless fabric in this entire world. Also your hair is visual. It is already looking better in this seemingly unconventional way. Your hair speaks for itself. Remember your scalp is an extention of your facial skin. Would you put shampoo on your face? Sodium lauryl sulfate, which is in all lathering shampoos, also is in dishwashing and laundry detergents.

Q: My hair looks pretty 3b, but underneath it is soooo curly and I get really bad shrinkage. I’m so tired of my hair never looking any longer because the more it grows, the more it shrinks and curls up on itself. It makes my hair look like a triangle. any suggestions to reduce shrinkage?

Massey: Talk To Your ShrinkHow frustrating is that! My hair does the same thing. I call them “hermet curls.” This is what I do: After cleansing with No-Poo and One Condition, I apply B’leave-in and Angell. Clip the ends of the hair to elongate the curls underneath. This provides extra gravity to those lightweight babies [ Curly Girl page 125]. I call it “weight a minute.”

Q: I find that my biggest issue with my hair is that the curls stack on top of each other. It really isn’t frizz. It’s just the curls get tighter and shorter as they dry, and there isn’t any other direction for them to go than up. Is this a haircut issue, or am I using the wrong products? I love my hair when it is wet. But as it dries, I stop liking it. I now use Frizz-Ease Serum. What should I do?

Massey: Up, Up And a ” Way “There is always a way. Have you tried growing your hair out? Obviously the weightlessness makes it contract and cluster. If you grew it out, gravity would bring the curls down and separate them. I suggest putting extra B’Leave In into your hair after you’ve One Conditioned. And finish off with some extra Angell. That also has weight-bearing elements. Also try putting clips on the ends of the hair as it dries to elongate the curls. When you use extra Deva products they don’t make your hair look or feel crispy. Frizz-Ease just sits on the hair and suffocates it.

Q: I’ve read the “Curly Girl” book and just started on your process of better caring for my Boticelli curls. My hair is rather dense and takes upwards of four hours to dry. Before I started your routine, I would let my hair air dry overnight. I’m trying to let it dry in the morning — getting up a few hours early. But this still doesn’t seem to be enough time. Should I continue to do this, or go back to letting my hair dry overnight? I’m pretty busy and am not terribly satisfied with the results I get when I diffuse. Any words of wisdom would be fantastic!

Massey: Sleep-in BeautyI think if you have been having better results sleeping on it, go back to that. Actually the clip routine is simulating weightlessness. It is a good alternative for when you’re horizontal rather than verticle. This is not for everyone. It’s better on longer, low-frizz factor Botticelli and Cockacelli curls.

Q: I have wavy/curly, thick hair. I love straightening it and everyone says how cute it is when it’s straight. I feel more confident with it straight, too. I never feel comfortable going out without it straightened. But it takes sooo long to do. Any ideas on how I can make it look sexy cury? I need more time to sleep!

Massey: Is Your Hair DYING To Tell You Something?It’s the placebo effect playing with your mind. If you don’t work with your own beautiful hair and you blow fry your curls, of course you’re going to get compliments, and your fake confidence rises. To me, that’s the equivalent of wearing a girdle that makes you look slimmer and makes your bust look larger. When you get home, you have to take it off and face the truth. One day, you find you’ve gotten tired of lying to yourself, and actually want to do something about it. Words aren’t going to do it. But if you want to come to New York City, we will give you an intervention workshop for when your’re truly ready to commit. I’m here for you.

Cozy Friedman

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