One frequent question we receive from readers is “Why is the bottom layer of my hair wavy and/or straight, and the top layer curly?” While having multiple textures on one head of hair is totally normal, it can sometimes make styling a bit of a challenge. For help, we turned to texture expert and educator Jessica Knight, owner of Beyond Texture salon in Brooklyn, NY. She states that having more than one texture is “simply genetics”.
"Having more than one texture is “simply genetics”."
Jessica has seen it frequently with her clients, and it is not always the top layer that is curlier than the bottom layers. She finds that “it can happen around the temples and other parts of the head-shape. You may even notice that some of the curls are softer and silkier, while others are coarser. Nothing is wrong with your texture though, first know that. It's simply YOU!”
Try a dry cut
Jessica recommends always cutting on dry hair with your curls as you would normally wear them. “This way, your stylist can be able to identify where the various textures and curl patterns live.” When creating the shape of the cut, she is cognizant of how it will grow out. If the bottom layer is on the straighter side, it will create a tail, or mullet-appearance.
To counter these problems, she suggests getting a haircut cut that takes into account your hair's multiple curl patterns, like one of these below.
1. Shorter graduated bob
This has an option of creating an A-line frame towards the face (when your hair is shorter in the back and gradually gets longer towards the front). This cut is great for fine- haired curlies who want more volume at the crown. When styling, apply some Innersense Innersense Inner Peace Whipped Creme Texturizer to any areas that need a little boost, or use the product to define and separate curls.
2. Longer graduated bob
Here, the length is preserved evenly throughout the haircut. It is a good choice if you want to have different styling options. Innersense I Create Lift Volumizing Foam can help provide soft shape and definition to your curls without drying them out. This foam provides a light, non-crunchy hold.
3. Longer layered cut
Jessica establishes the length, and then reduces the weight of the isolated straight/wavy silky texture. Straight/wavy hair tends to grow out very heavily. This technique will allow the length to grow in looking less dense, and allows curls to spring up. It is a great choice for fine to coarse textures, and many densities as well. Emulsifying a drop or two of Innersense I Create Shine Glossing Serum between your palms and then applying it to the mid-shafts to the ends of your hair will leave your strands smooth and shiny.
She states that “these shapes give my clients different options when it comes to what their goals are. Most importantly, they have longevity.”
Do you have areas of your hair that are curlier than others? What do you do to bring everything into balance? Let us know in the comments.