woman with natural hair finger coils

Why wear finger coils?

Finger coils are easy to do and can be achieved on a variety of lengths.  The style can last about a week or longer and can be transitioned into different styles by separating the coils, a French roll, or other pinup’s once the coils get older. Think of finger coils as a more defined coil you create using your fingers and a styling product, such as Jane Carters Natural Twist Out Foam, to give your style medium hold without the crunchy, dry feeling.

How to install finger coils

Step 1 – Start with cleansed hair

Start finger coils on freshly shampooed and conditioned hair. A good conditioner that holds in moisture for finger coiling is Mizani Moisturefusion. This conditioner gives amazing slip and helps the hair feel soft.  Sit with this conditioner for 20 min. under a hooded dryer or steamer.

Step 2 – Detangle

Before I start the coils, I always comb the hair out completely to make sure the product I am using is evenly distributed and the hair is completely detangled. Make sure the ends of your hair are completely detangled so that your coils are not frizzy and your ends look smooth when the coil locks in place.

Step 3 – Section

I find it easier to start at the nape of the head.  Create a one-inch diagonal part and section out a square that is the same length as the tip of your finger. Apply a good amount of product starting from the roots to the ends of your hair. Start creating the coil from the root simply twirling your hair around your pointer finger until your reach down to the ends. Follow this technique until the whole head is completely coiled.

Are your roots puffy?

In order to prevent your roots from puffing up when you are doing finger coils, you have to use small sections, especially if your hair is dense. You want to make sure your hair is wet and completely saturated with a product such as Design Essentials Twist and Set Lotion. You can also prevent your roots from puffing up by making sure you use your finger to smooth your roots down before you start coiling your hair.

Step 4 – Dry and set

Sit under a hooded dryer to let the coils dry and set for about one hour.

How to keep your coils smooth overnight

Finger coils can be maintained by wearing a satin bonnet at night.  I recommend sealing the hair with a carrier oil such as jojoba oil or sweet almond oil after the coils have dried.  Sealing the coils with a carrier oil adds shine and moisturizes the hair and scalp.  You can prevent your coils from feeling dry by twirling a little bit of Miss Jessie’s Curly Butter Cream 3 days after you created your coils.  This product is great for hydrating coils before bed and helps seal in moisture that will last all week.

How to keep your coils moisturized

Applying a hydrator at night will also help redefine any coil that needs to be refreshed or that have lost shape. Use this time to feel for any coils that are puffy or dry and quickly create a new coil. You can hydrate your coils one to two times during the week using this technique.

Other product options to hydrate finger coils are

How to pull out coils

A benefit of finger coils is the transformation from coils, which are more structured, to a voluminous hairstyle that can get bigger as the coils get older. You control how much volume your hair has based on how much you separate each individual coil. When pulling out coils you can use Jane Carter Nourish and Shine, which helps give your hair high shine and moisturizes coils. When opening up coils or twist outs, always use a product with a butter consistency because it will prevent dryness and keep the ends from tangling.

I shy away from using gel to finger coil, because I find most gels flake off the hair once the coils are separated.

How do you prevent your finger coils from puffing up at the roots?

Sophia Emmanuel


As a licensed cosmetologist and certified IAT trichologist, I enjoy helping people get to the root of their hair loss and hair breakage problems. I love teaching my clients how to care for their hair and pampering them with relaxing services. I love helping, creating, and learning.

No comments yet.