sam villa

Sam Villa

For those of you with fine hair, Sam Villa is your man. Sam Villa, founding partner and chairman of Allvus, LLC and Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue, teaches not only his stylist students, but also consumers how to give volume to fine hair.

Fine hair is divided into two categories: low density (hair shaft is thin and grows far apart) and high density (hair shaft is thin and grows close together).  For some stylists, the characteristics of this medium can make styling a challenge. Villa shares inside tips on finishing fine hair.

Products for Fine Hair

    redken body full products

  • Villa recommends Redken Body Full Shampoo and Body Full Light Conditioner. Both contain wheat extract to plump the hair, cotton to soften and detangle, and soy protein to repair and prevent breakage.
  • Use a treatment product to condition, protect and style your hair.
  • For extra plumping, try Body Full Volume Amplifier, a thickening lift spray.
  • For baby fine hair, try Body Full Instant Bodifier, a volumizing foam that provides structural support.

Many stylists (and consumers for that matter) have a personal preference on using a lotion, gel or mousse.  Villa offers his top picks for fine hair.

  • Lotion: Redken thickening lotion 06 adds thickness to each strand, it’s great on fine to medium hair.
  • Gel: Redken rootful 06 root lifting spray is great for getting lift at the roots, target the root area with application.
  • Mousse: For really fine hair that lacks life, Redken full frame 07 protective volumizing mousse can be used to increase body and volume.

About heat: It’s not the temp so much as the time; it’s okay to use high-temperature tools to create texture, just mind the amount of exposure to the heat. Use only as much as needed for as long as needed. Use a brick lay pattern to avoid seeing separation lines.


  • Try the Updry: After shampooing, apply desired styling product and comb hair straight up into a bunch on top of the head, let it buckle back and secure with a butterfly clip (or something that won’t leave a mark). Let hair dry naturally or use a diffuser. When hair is taken down, there is immense volume created by directing hair against the natural fall pattern.
  • The 80% Trick: Dry hair until 80% of the moisture is out of it, apply desired styling product and finish drying – the style will have incredible volume and hold better. When hair is less wet, it’s easier to feel where to put the product, and product adherer’s to the hairshaft better because it’s not diluted by moisture.
  • Avoid: Waxes, polishes, molding gels and heavy gels should be avoided – they gather hair together and make it too transparent, limp and greasy.