Devachan’s new DevaSun dryer
So does Jonathan Torch of Toronto’s Curly Hair Institute. Although Torch says he has yet to see ions add any real benefit to the condition of the hair, he acknowledges that ionic blow dryers do speed up drying time.
“The ionic technology in a blow dryer breaks down the water molecules much quicker than a regular blow dryer,” Torch says. “That is what I take advantage of.”
The newest ionic dryer was launched by curl guru Lorraine Massey of New York’s Devachan Salon, which recently introduced the ionic DevaFuser and Sun Dryer.
“You’re not relying on the heat source to dry the hair,” explains Shari Harbinger, a partner at Devachan Salon. “You’re relying on an ionic generator, which has the power to actually evaporate the water molecules so you don’t necessarily have to set the heat so high. By keeping the heat setting lower at 275 and using the ionic technology, you’re not only drying the hair faster but you’re not expanding the outer layer of the hair, the cuticle, from the heat, which would then give the appearance of frizzy, lackluster hair. Instead you’re getting a very closed cuticle and a very shiny curly hair.”
As thermal tools have gotten better, more options are available that are less damaging to the hair, adds Hoot.
“For instance, someone with naturally curly hair can wear it curly one day, blow it straight the next day and wear it curly again the day after that,” Hoot says. “But if you choose to chemically relax your hair, you’re eliminating options and accepting the chemical damage that might come with it.”
And once your hair is severely damaged, Hoot says all the features and benefits of ionic products won’t magically fix it.
“There are a lot of variables that come into play — from the consumer’s ability to use the tool to the general condition of their hair to begin with,” he says.
And although curl expert Christo, of New York’s Christo Fifth Avenue salon, is skeptical of some ionic products, he believes in the effectiveness of negatives ions. His Curlisto Ion Treatment is an in-house conditioning treatment packed with negative ions. He still cautions curlies not to expect too much from any one ingredient.
“It’s not a quick fix — it takes time,” Christo says. “It’s not going to instantly turn your hair from being very dry or frizzy to a beautiful, silky hair. The ion treatment jump starts the hair, and then you follow up with a hair masque.”
Some manufacturers are strictly devoted to ionic products, like Nelson Chan, founder of I.S.H. Rescue. He manufactures a line of shampoo and conditioning treatments with negative ions that come from pulverized volcanic rock.
“The negative ions are in the rock and they grind them,” Chan says. “We also use crystalized jojoba so as the ionic process is closing up the cuticle, moisture is put back in the hair. Curly hair is basically the driest hair type, so by closing out the cuticle with ionic products it helps provide a smoother curl.”
Stanley of New York’s Christopher Stanley Salon agrees, although he says he’s found only one ionic product to rave about. He’s tried ionic blow dryers, irons and brushes, and the one that really stood out was the Mebco Pro Spin Ionic brush.
“Whether I’m blowing hair straight or creating soft, loopy curls, it immediately gets rid of frizz and it’s cheap!” Stanley says.”It’s great for blowouts because you don’t have to use a ton of product or go over and over the hair.”
As for the ionic craze, Stanley says it’s becoming “outrageous.”
“Do you really want to spend $300 on a blow dryer?” he says. “I say buy a cheaper hair dryer and go have a cocktail!”
