CurlChemist

What is Magnesium sulfate?

Magnesium sulfate is an ingredient often touted as a natural curl booster or curl activator for hair. It is typically used in leave-in conditioners and curl enhancers, both commercially available and homemade, and it is applied via a spray-on delivery method.

Many people have noted that their hair often responds remarkably well to the initial application, but further uses yield dry tresses that behave in an unruly fashion.  Several explanations have been put forth for this phenomenon, but there still remains some confusion as to why it happens.

By delving into the protein structure of hair and curls, and how magnesium sulfate interacts with these, we can gain clear understanding of the mechanism by which magnesium sulfate enhances curl pattern and retention, and also why the effects seem short-lived and eventually become unpleasant.

Hair Keratin Protein

Other types of crosslinking also occur between the polypeptide chains, and they also contribute to the structure of the hair. These two additional types of crosslinking are achieved via hydrogen bonding and formation of salt bonds and are sometimes referred to as secondary bonds. However, both of these types are physical crosslinks, rather than chemical ones (imagine it as two strands taped together or two magnets attracted to one another versus two strands sewn together or melted and re-formed into one object), and are susceptible to disruption via mechanical forces (touching or brushing the hair, wind) or the presence of water (swimming, washing, humidity, rain).Proteins are polymeric molecules (also called polypeptides) made up of many repeat units of various amino acids. The sequence, type, and order of the amino acids vary greatly depending upon the function of the specific protein. Hair is comprised of keratin protein, a polypeptide particularly differentiated from other proteins for its large proportion of cysteine, a sulfur-containing amino acid.  These polypeptide strands are crosslinked (bound together into a three-dimensional network) via formation of covalent bonds between adjacent cysteine residues. This linkage is a chemical crosslink referred to as the disulfide bond, and is the source of the strength and physical configuration of the hair. As the degree of disulfide crosslinking in a strand increases, so does the amount of curl in the hair.

Perms enhance curls by breaking the disulfide bonds via chemical means, curling the hair tightly to physically restructure it, and then re-forming the disulfide bonds at a higher percentage. Several researchers have found that hair is stronger and curl retention is increased when magnesium sulfate is incorporated into the rinsing and neutralizing agent used to re-form the disulfide bonds. They also noted that its use enhanced the curl pattern and imparted a greater stability to high humidity.

Biologically sourced substances continue to gain popularity as ingredients in skin and hair care products.  This trend is in response to consumer and government demands for more natural and sustainable products, and is strongly driven by advances in fundamental understanding of biomaterials.  One such material is hyaluronic acid, a biopolymer highly valued in cosmetics for its hydrating and nourishing properties.  Its value as a beneficial topical skin cream agent is fairly well accepted, but does it improve the performance of hair care products?  What results can the consumer expect from shampoos, conditioners, or styling products that contain hyaluronic acid, and are there any potential drawbacks for curly haired users?  The answers can be found in the relatively simple structure, yet surprisingly complex physical and biochemistry of the molecule.

What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Its name is relatively simple and deceptive, conjuring images of various small molecule acids, such as ascorbic, acetic and citric acid.  However, hyaluronic acid is a surprisingly complex biopolymer. HA is a polysaccharide categorized as a glycosaminoglycan (GAG), and is a very high molecular weight (107 Da) , non-sulfated, anionic (negatively-charged) polymer.  Its physical structure is linear and is comprised of alternating units of D-glucoronic acid and D-N-acetyl glucosamine.  This polymer is found in virtually all vertebrate tissues, and is particularly active in the extracellular matrix (ECM) in connective tissue.

The ECM fills the space between cells and is a complex array of proteins and polysaccharides that self-assemble to form a network that provides support, structure, and mechanical integrity to the tissue.  Depending upon the function of the tissue, the type and structure of polymeric and small molecule components varies, which facilitates the development of the specific mechanical properties necessary for the particular tissue type (i.e. bone versus skin, etc.).

As a component of the ECM, hyaluronic acid performs many functions, including acting as a tissue scaffold to which sulfated proteoglycans can attach, creating a complex three-dimensional hydroscopic network that forms a viscous gel.  Its highly hydrophilic structure causes it to attract and bind water to itself, which enables it to hydrate and provide turgor (rigidity) to tissue. This enables the matrix to resist compression, which allows it to provide cushion to joints, organs, and the dermal layer. It is also thought to provide hydrated pathways that promote and regulate cellular movement and migration.  Additionally, hyaluronic acid interacts with cell membranes receptors (specifically CD44) to trigger intercellular signaling pathways that direct and control cellular processes involved in growth, healing, and also some pathological processes such as inflammation and tumor development and growth. Hyaluronic acid also aids in protection of tissue and processes by scavenging free radicals and is thus an effective antioxidant.

Most of us have been recipients of much indoctrination regarding the benefits of antioxidants, both for our health and our appearance.  Eat your multi-colored vegetables, drink your freshly-obtained green juice, take your vitamins, and slather on expensive skin creams loaded with these nebulous molecules, and you will be fit, appear young, beautiful, active and healthy, right? With claims like these, it seemed inevitable that hair care products showcasing these materials would make their debut on the shelves of hair salons, health food stores, and drug stores, and of course, this is the case, especially in the natural market sector.

But are these ingredients truly beneficial when used in topically applied hair care products, or are they simply a clever marketing strategy with minimal effects?  A consumer armed with knowledge of what oxidative damage is, how it occurs, and what can be used to protect against it has the advantage when evaluating product claims and making purchases.

What is oxidative damage?

Oxidation is the process whereby a molecule loses an electron and is cleaved into its substituent atoms or groups.  Some of these species are left having an unpaired electron in their outer shell, which leaves them in a highly unstable and reactive state, as they are driven to complete their outer shells via pairing all electrons.  These are called free radicals or reactive oxygen species (ROS).

In order to complete its outer shell of electrons, the free radical will attack adjacent molecules and abstract an electron from them, generating a new radical which is also unstable and seeks to “steal” an electron from its neighbors.  This initiates a chain reaction, which is the basis of many polymerization reactions, but which can also be very destructive to living cells and systems.  These free radicals can attack cell lipid layers, DNA, proteins, and many other essential structures, disrupting key biological processes and resulting in aging, decreased function, and pathological processes such as cancer.

Hair is not comprised of living cells, but its keratin-based structures are still susceptible to oxidative damage from a wide variety of sources.  This damage leads to split ends, broken hairs, rough cuticles, frizz, tangling, lack of luster, diminished curl retention, and loss of color (natural or artificial). Identification of the many sources of free radical exposure can help a curly to reduce their overall risk of accumulating this type of structural degradation.

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation is one frequent route for oxidative damage, where the sun’s rays penetrate the hair shaft and deplete the natural melanin resident in the cortex and also alter the protein structures of both the cuticle and cortex.  Chemical processes, particularly bleaching and permanent dyeing are culprits in the depletion of natural melanin and creating substantial oxidative damage.  Additionally, relaxers, perms, keratin treatments, and heat styling contribute to formation of free radicals, which attack both the lipids and the proteins in the cuticle structures.  Exposure to ozone, pollutants, tobacco smoke, substances in our water, as well as radiation all add to the continual exposure to free radicals and their damaging processes. Damage is pervasive and cumulative, and damaged hair becomes more porous and even more vulnerable to oxidative damage. For this reason, prevention and minimization are critical to preserve the health and beauty of hair.

How Do Antioxidants Work?

We know from advertisements and reports in the media, as well as from more academic sources, that antioxidants are the key to dealing with this constant attack from free radicals, but what exactly is their role in the process?  Antioxidants mitigate and prevent damage to cells and structures from free radical and reactive oxygen species by putting the brakes on the chain reaction that destroys everything around it.  The mechanism by which they achieve this varies, depending upon the antioxidant, but generally it is accomplished via an electron or hydrogen donor process.  These molecules are called free radical scavengers.

One common antioxidant is Vitamin E (α-Tocopherol), which donates an electron to an unstable free radical, rendering it stable, but becoming oxidized itself.  However, rather than becoming a participant in the free radical chain reaction, the oxidized version of α-tocopherol is then either excreted or regenerated via reduction (hydrogen donation) by Vitamin C (ascorbic acid).

Low Heat Styling: Gentle or Damaging?

Heat styling has long been an accessible method to achieve a new hair style, whether it’s a carefully curled look or a glossy straight one.

Unfortunately, subjecting hair to the high temperatures of blow drying, curling, or flat ironing can have disastrous effects on its health and beauty. This is especially true for delicate, curly hair with its tendency to be particularly vulnerable to structural damage and breakage.

For this reason, many naturally curly haired people avoid using heat on their hair at all and rely upon air drying, scrunching or pineappling, and strategic placement of clips to impart body and shape to their tresses. However, the occasional yearning for a temporarily smooth, flat hairdo is felt by many, and the allure of the flat iron is ever present.

Low Heat Styling Tools

Many styling tools offer options to operate the equipment at lower temperatures. Recently, one company (CoolWay™, The Low heat Revolution) has been marketing a low heat flat iron styling system as a way to safely achieve straight tresses without all the damage.  Among other things, their appealing claims boast that their system reduces drying time, increases hair strength by 300%, reduces breakage by 75%, and reduces frizz by 50%.

But are lower temperatures truly safer for your hair, and if so, what is the temperature threshold for safe usage?  Answers to that question can be found in a deeper understanding of how thermal damage occurs, the role water plays, and finally the mechanism and efficacy of thermal protection serums in its prevention.

What does heat do to hair?

Breaks hydrogen bonds

Application of heat to the hair breaks hydrogen bonds, and the use of tension or pressure allows hair to be re-shaped so that the new hydrogen bonds form to support the new shape (straight or curled).  These bonds generally remain in place until the hair is washed again or until they slowly revert to their preferred conformation, which means hair straightened via flat ironing can be silky and straight for a few days at a time.

Unfortunately, the temperatures required to achieve this effect can cause permanent structural damage to hair, especially when coupled with the relatively high mechanical forces used to change the shape of the hair. Flat irons are the ultimate players in the heat styling field, with temperatures easily reaching 350°F and even approaching (or surpassing) 400°F.

Structural defects

Hair exposed to the extreme conditions of flat irons has been observed via optical microscopy and scanning electron microscopy and both radial (outward from the shaft) and axial (along the length of the strand) cracking have been observed on hair strands, as well as fusion of cuticle scales.  These structural defects become weaknesses that can result in frizz, tangling, and ultimately breakage.  Loss of curl pattern is also a common effect of repeat exposure to this method of straightening.

Bubble hair

Perhaps even more disconcerting has been the presentation of what has been labeled “bubble hair” in the industry, where hair exposed to the high temperatures of flat iron straightening develops voids and bubbles along its length. Hair is naturally filled with miniscule voids that hold air, which can also absorb and retain water.

When the local temperature of this water exceeds its boiling point, which can happen very easily with exposure to high temperatures in heat styling and blow drying, it can vaporize quickly and boil out of the hair, expanding the voids to form large, vacant bubbles in the structure of the hair. These bubbles give the hair strand an irregular, knobby shape, which is not only unattractive, but also creates stress concentration sites and multiple sources subsequent of breakage.

For this reason, it is extremely important to never flat iron hair that is not absolutely dry. Any residual dampness from washing puts the hair at greater danger for extreme, irreversible damage from rapid boiling of the water molecules. Since hair is never 100% free of water (which would be an undesirable state anyway), this risk is never completely eliminated.

A “sweet” new group of ingredients being used in the green formulating industry is the Sucragel line of products developed by Alfa Chemicals in the UK. Rather than being a single ingredient, these materials are provided as  mixtures of natural oils, glycerin, and esters of the sugar molecule, sucrose.

Sucragels can be easily incorporated into a variety of hair and skin products where they provide thickening to the product, emulsion stabilization, mild cleansing and for leave on products, impart hydration to the skin and hair through the attraction and binding of water molecules to the humectant sugar molecules.

Sucragel enjoys the prestigious European Ecocert label, which means it is internationally accepted as a viable option for natural formulations and can be used in products for companies whose policies regarding the quality and safety of their ingredients are rigorous.

Sucragel is PEG-free, biodegradable, preservative-free, entirely vegetable derived, is available in a 94% organic option, and is amenable to cold process technology, which uses less energy and is considered a more sustainable business practice for manufacture of products. These mixtures add benefit to formulations for both skin and hair, and are found in a variety of products so far, including several Burt’s Bees gentle shampoos.

MORE: Top 10 Ingredients of Natural Hair Products

What are Sucragels?

Sucrose laurate is then mixed with glycerin, water (aqua), and an oil phase consisting of either caprylic/capric triglycerides or sweet almond oil. The final solution is Sucragel, which can be readily mixed with a variety of nonpolar oils, including botanical oils, silicones, mineral oils, and esters, to produce a stable, clear, oily gel. Sucragels are a mixture designed to capitalize upon the nonionic surfactant properties of sugar esters.  These are obtained by an esterification reaction between sucrose and a fatty acid, typically the coconut fatty acid (lauric) to produce sucrose laurate.

Where will I find them?

The resultant gels can be added to aqueous mixtures, where they emulsify spontaneously, which is useful for making lotions, face creams, cleansers, or lightweight conditioners. Additionally, the oily gels can be used to make excellent deep conditioning treatments or as light topical humectants if applied sparingly. The ease with which these materials can be used in formulations makes them suitable materials for home dabbling in cosmetics chemistry.

Sucragels also have application as co-surfactants in low-foaming, mild shampoos.  Burt’s Bees makes use of Sucragel in a variety of their natural shampoos for adults and children.  They are also found in A’kin shampoo, Organic Surge shampoo, The Body Shop rainforest shampoo, Madara shampoo, and The Organic Pharmacy, to name a few.  Due to their amphiphilic, nonionic structure, they provide very mild cleansing and are considered moisturizing.  They are used in products targeting safety and health as replacements for PEG-modified surfactants, which are coming under scrutiny for potential health complications.

Sucragel can also be used in lightweight leave-in conditioning products, especially if the primary conditioning agent is a silicone or botanical oil.  In these they impart hydration and moisturization both from the almond oil and the sugar ester.

Sucragel seems to be primarily suited for hydration and emulsification purposes, and is thus appropriate for use in shampoos, leave-in conditioners, and skin creams. It is not readily apparent from the product literature whether it is compatible with some of the typical styling polymers, such as acrylates or pyrrolidones.  It is sensitive to electrolytes in the solution, which indicates that the cationic conditioning and styling polymers would definitely not work well with these materials.  It would be interesting to see if they added anything beneficial to a flax seed gel or something similar.

What to look for on labels

Several different Sucragel mixtures are available for formulators, so they have multiple INCI designations for labels.

1. Sucragel CF: Glycerin & Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides & Aqua & Sucrose Laurate
2. Sucragel AOF: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil & Glycerin & Aqua & Sucrose Laurate
3. Sucragel AOF BIO (94% Organic): Glycerin & Prunis Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil & Sucrose Laurate & Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Water

MORE: Decipher Hair Product Ingredients and Read Your Labels! 

Summary

Sucragels are a mixture of sugar esters and oils that enable formulators to create viscous, oily gels and stable emulsions for a variety of hair and skin care products.  They provide mild cleansing, emulsion stabilization, environmentally friendly manufacturing, and are biodegradable, to name some of their desirable traits.  Some research studies have shown that in certain mixtures, these materials form some very interesting structures (bicontinuous phases) that may provide more sophisticated avenues for application in the future.  An additional perk is that they are also obtainable from a variety of sources so that it is possible to play with them at home to see how they work for you.
While these sugar ester based mixtures may not be tasty (but they are edible), they do seem to be a fantastic resource for the cosmetic market. The sugar esters themselves are water soluble, but the plant oils require a mild cleanser to be removed thoroughly from the hair surface.  Due to their highly hydrophilic structures, the humectant properties from both the sucrose ester and the glycerin may produce a tacky feel to the hair and even lead to frizz, especially in certain environmental conditions, so be aware of this if you choose to use leave-in products containing these.  Overall, the Sucragel mixture is very gentle material with much potential as formulators both at home and in labs strive to develop products that embrace the green philosophy.

Recently I received a rather heated e-mail in which a reader objected strongly to one of my previous writings. I had concluded that a specific ingredient is generally safe for use in hair care products, but the reader’s personal experience had been one of severe allergic reaction. It was a dreadful experience for this person, and it brings to light the unfortunate and unavoidable fact that many of the ingredients used in hair and skin care are potential allergens or irritants. It is not at all uncommon for users to report reactions to seemingly innocuous ingredients that are generally recognized as safe and effective for most people.

Allergies are a highly complex issue of the immune system, and reports seem to be on the rise, although it is difficult to determine whether that is due to increased incidence or increased awareness. One particularly confounding factor in these situations is that an immune system may mount an allergic response after years of repeated exposures to the material, which can be quite baffling and can sometimes lead to an ingredient being overlooked as the source of the problem.

MORE: 4 Common Allegens in Hair Products

Mongongo oil has been valued for centuries in Africa and is now gaining popularity in the rest of the world as we become educated about its beneficial qualities. Not only is the fruit extremely nutritious, but the oil has many useful properties as an emollient for both hair and skin. What makes mongongo different from other botanical oils and how does this affect its properties?

Origin

Mongongo oil is obtained by cold-pressing the nuts that come from the Mongongo or Manketti tree (Schinziophyton rautanenii). The Manketti tree is found from coast to coast in Southern Africa. It thrives in the seasonal dry lands where it weathers a broad range of temperatures from sub-freezing to scorching desert heat. It is found both sporadically scattered and also in large groves throughout northern Namibia, southern Angola, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Malawi. The egg-shaped, reddish brown fruit is prized by both the people and the elephants indigenous to the region. The nuts are often gathered from elephant dung, a practice that is less labor intensive than harvesting the fruit and extracting the nut from the center.

Composition of Mongongo Oil

The nut is very high in fat (>57%) and contains a plethora of other valuable nutrients, such as calcium, magnesium, iron, copper, zinc and thiamine. Each seed contains approximately 560 mg of vitamin E (tocopherol). The antioxidant properties of this vitamin lend a high degree of thermal and oxidative stability to the oil, which greatly delays onset of rancidity of the oil, even in the intense South African heat. The oil has been greatly prized, not only for its nutritive benefits, but also as a skin and hair emollient and skin protectant.

The composition of the oil in mongongo fruit is fairly different from many other plant oils used as topical hair treatments or conditioning ingredients. It is comprised of between 40-50% polyunsaturated fatty acids, as compared to shea and coconut oil, which are comprised largely of saturated fatty acids and mango, olive, avocado, jojoba and almond oils, which are comprised mainly of monounsaturated oils.

Fatty Acid Content of Mongongo Oil:

• 45-55% polyunsaturated fatty acids: linoleic acid, alpha-eleostearic acid
• 17% saturated fatty acids: palmitic acid, stearic acid
• 18% monounsaturated fatty acid: oleic acid

Unsaturated molecules have at least one carbon-carbon double bond in their structure. Double bonds are connected at a different angle than single ones and this produces a kink in the molecular geometry. This type of structure inhibits crystallization by impeding packing of adjacent molecules. For this reason, oils with high concentrations of polyunsaturated and monounsaturated fatty acids are typically either liquids at room temperature or melt readily upon contact with skin.

Stearic acid, a saturated hydrocarbon molecule with 18 carbons (relatively long-chain fatty acid) has a melting point of 69.6°C (157.28°F). Oleic acid is a monounsaturated hydrocarbon with a melting point of 10.5°C (50.9°F). Polyunsaturated acids, such as linoleic and linolenic, have multiple kinks in their chains and are liquid at very low temperatures (melt point = -5°C (23°F) for linoleic acid).

MORE: 6 New Hair Oils for Your Curls

Polymer scientists continually collaborate with cosmetic chemists and formulators to develop new molecules designed to overcome limitations that exist with currently available ingredients. One example of such work is Polyquaternium-59 (Crodasorb UV-HPP), a cationic polymer which is now being used in a number of commercially-available skin and hair care formulations, including some products by Ouidad. Since the structure, function, and performance of the polymers in this category can vary so widely, as each is specifically tailored to meet a targeted need, it is worthwhile to take the time to examine this particular polymer to gain an understanding of its potential benefits to both the consumer and the chemist in a formulation.

What is it?

Polyquaternium-59 is a polyester molecule that has quaternized ammonium sites (positively-charged) along both its backbone as well as in pendant groups attached to the chain.

(IUPAC name: Poly(20,25-dioxo-2,5,10,15,18-pentamethyl-10-(2-hydroxy-3-(3-(3-phenyl-2-propenamido)propyldimethylammonio)propyl)-10-azonia-1,4,7,13,16,19-hexaoxapentacosanediyl) chloride)

Compared to many cationic polymers, it is of relatively low molecular weight, averaging 5000 grams per mole, and according to the manufacturer, Croda, it is 65% active, which means it has a high level of charge density relative to other polyquaternium materials used in cosmetic applications. This enhances the water solubility of these polymers and also increases substantivity to hair, and thus improves conditioning properties. The high degree of water solubility also means this polymer is suitable for cold mix processes, which is appealing to formulators from both a cost-saving perspective and from an environmentally friendly manufacturing paradigm. [i]

The novel twist to the polymer structure in PQ-59 is the inclusion of groups capable of absorbing UV radiation at the ends of the pendant groups. (For those interested in the specific organic chemistry, these groups are a carbonyl group conjugated diene/ aromatic moieties ). These portions of the molecule transform the harmful, high energy UV radiation into a lower energy form (infrared) that is emitted as heat. This sun protection quality is perhaps the most valuable contribution this polymer makes to any personal care product formula.

Sun Protection for Hair

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation occurs whenever we go outside. We are all well aware of the importance of limiting skin exposure to these harmful rays, but it is less well known the extent of damage they do to hair as well. UV-B radiation (280-320 nm) cleaves disulfide bonds (S-S) in the cuticle, depletes cystine in the structure, and thus damages the protein structure of the protective cover of the hair strand. This increases surface roughness and porosity, which results in frizz, tangling, and ultimately, breakage. Breakage of disulfide bonds can also lead to frizz and unmanageability as it disrupts curl structures. [ii]

UV also depletes the protective lipids found on the surface of the cuticle. This increases combing forces necessary to detangle hair, which generally results in formation of split ends and breakage.

The surface of human hair is highly hydrophobic, which helps to seal moisture into the hair shaft, protect it from the environment and mitigate effects from fluctuations in humidity that can cause structural damage. UV-B breaks down tryptophan found in the protein structure of the hair and creates a more highly negatively charged surface, which becomes more hydrophilic and less capable of moisture retention and more susceptible to ill effects from the environment.

Ultraviolet radiation also penetrates into the cortex of the hair where it breaks down protein structures within the hair strand as well, compromising the mechanical integrity of the hair. This results in a lower tensile strength for the hair, and so it breaks more easily. UV-A radiation in the cortex reacts with both natural melanin pigments and chemical dye molecules, causing photobleaching and yellowing, both definitely undesirable effects.

Clearly, protecting hair from damage from ultraviolet radiation is a desirable goal, for health, strength, luster, color retention and overall beauty of our tresses. This is especially true for longer hair, as damage is cumulative. Since wearing a hat everywhere does not seem like a fashionable solution, chemists and formulators have been experimenting with different ingredients for a while. Some of the limitations of common sun protective ingredients in current use are that the smaller molecules are not very substantive to hair, and they are often very greasy. For this reason, polyquaternium-59 was developed to overcome some of the deficiencies of other options. Its greater charge density as a cationic polymer enhances its substantivity to the surface of hair, which carries a slight negative charge. Also, as a lighter weight, water-soluble polymer, it has no greasy tactile sensation.

Read More: The Best Vitamin for Hair Growth?

Silicones have many unique properties that make them a preferred ingredient for hair care product formulators. They form a film on the surface of hair strands which allows them to effectively act as a lubricant between adjacent hair strands and reduce the forces required for detangling hair. Due to their high refractive index, they also impart a high degree of gloss and shine to hair when used in conditioners and styling products. Silicones also provide protection from the thermal damage often sustained during hair drying and heat styling. Certain silicones, especially amine-functionalized ones, have also been shown to increase color retention of artificially dyed hair.

However, despite their numerous benefits, curlies are frequently admonished to minimize use of silicones or to avoid them entirely.

So what’s the problem?

Sadly, there can be too much of a good thing. Years ago, it was fashionable for stylists to douse curly hair in heavy silicone oils in order to get control of frizz and to add a much-coveted shine to curls. Unfortunately, these products had a tendency to backfire over time. With repeated use, the serums accumulated on the surface of the hair, keeping water from entering the cortex and causing it to become dehydrated, weighing down hair, and completely disrupting natural curl pattern. The buildup could be very difficult to remove, requiring repeat applications of harsh shampoos. The result was dry, frizzy hair that resisted attempts to restore its natural beauty.

Similar results can occur when conditioners with high amounts of non-water soluble dimethicone are used. Buildup issues are especially problematic when non-traditional methods of cleansing are employed, such as conditioner cleansing, baking soda scrubs, or vinegar rinses. For this reason, it has become a popular recommendation for curly-haired people to avoid products containing silicones. This has the unfortunate consequence of depriving many curlies of some of the beneficial properties of silicones in hair care products.

Is There a Solution?

Happily, polymer chemists have spent time developing and optimizing water soluble silicone-based polymers for various reasons. These materials impart many of the desirable properties of ordinary silicone polymers, but they are more easily removed from the hair via rinsing, conditioner washing, or cleaning with mild shampoos, and do not require the use of harsh sulfate-based surfactants. They can also enhance moisturizing properties or add humectant qualities. These silicones provide more options to curly ladies and gentlemen.

Read More: Coily Manifesto: Silicone Hair Products Work For Me